Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 100 of 146
  1. #1
    Longing for dirt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    42

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues

    Hey All:

    I've been running an X9 type 2 derailleur for around 3 weeks now. Everything you've read is true: chain slap is nearly eliminated and the frequency of dropped chains is reduced (at least compared to a SRAM xx 2x10 rear der.) BUT, I've developed a strange and irritating issue:

    The clutch seems to have fallen out of tune or something. It takes a significant force to overcome the clutch at this point. When the cage finally moves forward I hear a fairly loud click. I hear this click every time I cycle past 40% travel in the rear. I can also feel this force in the suspension travel. I've been riding primarily dusty terrain. I was caught in a biblical rain storm about a week ago. Anyone else discover similar issues? Is the clutch adjustable (i don't think so)?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    404
    It seems you aren't the only one having issues with the type 2 derailleur! I had issues with my clutch being way to tight keeping the bike from shifting correctly. For the time being i think the type 2 is a flop. i sent mine in for warranty. I am now using Shimano Zee derailleur and saint shifter. The clutch is not adjustable.

    x.9 type 2 derailleur problems

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: in the trees's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,919
    More info on this. I was about to invest in a Type2.

  4. #4
    Longing for dirt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    42
    I would wait. My bike shifts fine and it is much quieter but the very slight hesitation I feel/hear in my suspension travel is really troubling. I think the source of my issues may have been a really intense rainstorm. I spoke to SRAM today. They are looking into it. Also of note - I'm not an anal mtb owner. I ride a lot and I do an average amount of maintenance. I'm accustomed to some occasional noise from my ride.

  5. #5
    KVW
    KVW is offline
    Law abiding citizen
    Reputation: KVW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    510
    Damn, I'm really interested in one of these derailleurs. Amazon has em for a decent price too. Prime shipping, no tax - was just bout to pull the trig when I decided i should do a few searches first. Guess this is the price of being an early adopter. Hope they work out these issues quick!
    "Single track is for pansies!
    I blast down a mountain once, and in my wake, lies a new single track for the rest of you."-sm

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: tracerprix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    626
    This is upsetting, I just bought a X.0 type 2, hmmm I'll try it anyway.

  7. #7
    Longing for dirt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    42
    Following up, a friend sent me this link to a thread on bikeradar:

    BikeRadar.com • View topic - SRAM type 2
    *
    This guy is having the exact same problem that I am.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    34
    joe_soma:

    Thanks for the BikeRadar link!

    My type 2 is having the exact same issue after 2 weeks in dusty condistions. It started out with a slight knock. Then it progressed to a louder knock and could be felt everytime the suspension moved. I took the shock off and cycled the suspension... it didn't matter which gear or at what point the susp was cycled. On initial up movement, every gear produced the knock/ clunk.

    SRAM customer service had very different answers from Friday to today... The first rep I talked to said it was obviously an issue. The rep today would only discuss through a bike shop mechanic and they tried to imply that the new derailleur has a different cage length capacity than previous SRAM derailleurs.

    Even worse: I have XTR Shadow Plus in its place now that performs flawlessly! I like the SRAM lever action, but the clutch does not seem ready for "primetime." Early adoption strikes again

  9. #9
    Live Free & Ride
    Reputation: NH Mtbiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,103

    New question here.

    Hmm.... I was ready to get the X9 also as I have X7 triggers already. Can I still get an XT Shadow and run the X7 triggers?... or will I need to go all Shimano? Looking to just set it up as a 1 x 10 for the rear using the short cage. 34T Bling ring with a 12/36 cassette.
    14 GT Zaskar 9r
    15 Moto Night Train
    08 BMC Trailfox
    06 Cannondale Rush
    99 GT XCR
    93 Raleigh MT 200

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: tracerprix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    626
    Your shifters need to match your rd. so if you have shimano rd you need shimano shifters same goes for SRAM. I think the reason being they each have a different shift length when you shift te shifters so the rd wouldn't shift right of you mismatched them. Make sense?

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sanjosedre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    618
    Thank you guys for sharing your experiences, I was about to dive in.

    Dre

  12. #12
    MTBR Member
    Reputation: ncfisherman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,945
    Quote Originally Posted by tree_trunks View Post
    Even worse: I have XTR Shadow Plus in its place now that performs flawlessly! I like the SRAM lever action, but the clutch does not seem ready for "primetime." Early adoption strikes again
    So glad that I went the XT Plus route instead of X0. I like that the Shimano clutch system is easily accessible/adjustable.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,689
    I may be experiencing this too. New bike came with x9 Type2 and have noticed a "notch point" during suspension movement. Not audible, but can be felt through the stroke of the rear suspension. WIll update with findings during testing.

  14. #14
    Too Much Fun
    Reputation: benja55's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    2,232
    Glad I found this thread too. I was waiting for the silver/black colorways on the Type 2 (due Nov FYI) and now I'm glad I waited.

    I've come to really love the feel of SRAM XO shifting but really would like to go roller clutch rear der. Hope they get this sorted ASAP. It's clear Shimano put the work in on Shadow Plus. Everyone raves about it.
    - -benja- -

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,689
    Yup, just confirming after having more time to look into it. I can definitely feel the clutch threshold through my pedals when the rear suspension activates. Depending on which gear I am in on the cassette (due to chain tension) I can feel the notch at a varying point during the suspension travel. Sometimes I don't feel it at all, if the suspension isn't moving enough to reach the threshold to activate the clutch. Nonetheless I do notice it on occasion. Under riding conditions it is harder to detect, as truthfully I am paying more attention to the trail - but when I do notice while riding, it does kind of irk me. Hoping the clutch breaks in a bit and it becomes less noticeable. I don't want to outlay any cash to swap derailleurs or anything so at this point, I'm just saying F- it and riding the bike.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    180
    I just installed a medium cage type 2 X0 in place of a medium cage XX. 2x10 setup. Setting proper chain length for the small chain ring and small cog results in inadequate chain length for large chain ring and large cassette cogs. With 10 as the largest, when I shift to 8, the chain jams because there is not enough slack chain to lift onto the cog. If I then add a link, when I run small chain ring and small (#1) cassette cog, the chain/upper jockey wheel contacts moving chain. There is no chain length that works! How is this possible?

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,088
    Quote Originally Posted by testtech View Post
    I just installed a medium cage type 2 X0 in place of a medium cage XX. 2x10 setup. Setting proper chain length for the small chain ring and small cog results in inadequate chain length for large chain ring and large cassette cogs. With 10 as the largest, when I shift to 8, the chain jams because there is not enough slack chain to lift onto the cog. If I then add a link, when I run small chain ring and small (#1) cassette cog, the chain/upper jockey wheel contacts moving chain. There is no chain length that works! How is this possible?
    XX is always long cage. Medium cage does not have quite enough travel for true 2x10 with the 11-36 cassette in the back, that's your issue.

  18. #18
    Big Test Icycles
    Reputation: Hangtime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,433
    I'm very glad I came across this thread. I was on the fence between XT and X9. Now I'm leaning to Shimano. So the long cage is the ticket for 11-36

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    180
    Quote Originally Posted by Hangtime View Post
    I'm very glad I came across this thread. I was on the fence between XT and X9. Now I'm leaning to Shimano. So the long cage is the ticket for 11-36
    My medium cage XO type 2 is now working flawlessly on 11-36. The original problems were the result of an installation error by the bike shop mechanic. All I got from this experience was that I will use a different bike shop;

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jon123's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    857
    I also have the knocking noise (X0 Type 2, medium cage). Exactly as joe_soma described: it's quite audible once you hit about 40% rear travel.
    I spoke with Sram today and (after initially claiming to be unaware of the problem) the rep said it is only noise and a) does not affect the suspension and b) will not harm the derailleur.
    Anyone have any further thoughts?

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,689
    I have some thoughts, though my thoughts don't usually amount to much. I am curious however, there seem to be no reports of this behavior affecting users of Shimano's clutch system so I wonder what is different mechanically about them. I know shimano's is user-adjustable to an extent but beyond that haven't seen one or felt one even.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,088
    For the data point, I've got about a month on mine without this issue.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    40
    My one month old Type2 medium cage is clicking now! You cant test yours by siting on your bike and and bouncing up and down to compress the rear suspension. I tried lubing all the pivot points on the Type2, no luck. Mine was initially quiet, so it's gotta be related to dusty trail riding, washing the bike or wear on the sealed clutch mechanism, Sram has got to be aware of this issue.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: in the trees's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,919
    Is the consensus to run a medium cage with an 11-36T cassette even with a 1x10 drivetrain?

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    40
    I'm running a medium Type2 cage on my 1x10 setup (11-36t x 34t) and I still get clicking.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilether's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    511
    Quote Originally Posted by testtech View Post
    My medium cage XO type 2 is now working flawlessly on 11-36. The original problems were the result of an installation error by the bike shop mechanic. All I got from this experience was that I will use a different bike shop;
    My new x9 type 2 derailleur began knocking badly today. It ran really nicely for maybe 6-7 rides. Anyway, can you elaborate as to how it was installed incorrectly?

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    8
    Im getting clicking noise as well from my type 2 do rear dérailleur, comes from the roller cam area. Derailleur works well, just makes noise.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    967
    My knocking/creaking issues were because the chain was too short. It seems that these derailleurs are more sensitive to a shorter chain. My bike (Trek Remedy) has lots of chain growth and I was measuring chain length without having the suspension compressed. 2 chain links extra at full compression ends up being almost 5 chain links extra at static height.

    Now that I've got proper chain length it's quiet as a mouse and has amazing shifting.

    -Tom

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: B-Mac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    750
    FWIW, I'm running a X9 type II, running for just over a month & have zero noise or issues. Running a mid cage with a 36t cog, no problems.

    Actually, found this thread b/c I was going to start a thread about how great I thought the Type II is . . . I personally really, really like this RD!! Shifting is extremely smooth & the difference in noise is just profound. The only way I can get noise out of the chain is when you hit a bunch of stutter bumps or decent-sized roots at speed. Jumps, drops, etc are all silent. I will note that I've dropped the chain off the middle ring (I have a 2/10 setup) several times, so the Type II does not seem to work as advertised in that respect. The button that locks the cage forward for wheel changes needs to be on every RD made. Great idea.

    As to b-screw setup, I use the following, extremely scientific & mechanically sound adjustment method: tweak the cage really close to the cogs & adjust it outward slowly until it no longer hangs up during shifts to bigger cogs.

    As some others have mentioned, I added a link to my chain & it seems a bit happier. The link was added due to a trail repair to a broken chain, not because of any problem I was having. The broken chain was my own fault, as I had to add a link to the chain after I cut it b/c forgot that I went from a 34 big cog to a 36, which weakens the rivet on the added link. I didn't have a replacement rivet, so just re-used the one I knocked out.

    YMMV, but my experience has been very positive.
    Check out my You Tube Channel

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: in the trees's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,919
    I've read that maybe a Medium cage is better for 36T rear cog. Can anyone comment? Still waiting to see how things pan out with this derailleur.

    And will it be released in SRAM's other X.9 colors - red and white?

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    8

    No more issues - went to long cage.

    I was having the clicking issues with a medium cage xo type 2 on a carbon tallboy with a 2x10 (11-36) setup. I switched to the XO long cage and have the chain length exactly as prescribed by SRAM (measure it in big/big OUT OF REAR DERAILLER, with suspension - if applicable fully compressed, then add one link AND the powerlink).

    With that, my clicking is gone and shifting is nice.

    Good luck!

  32. #32
    I <3 dirt
    Reputation: Ilikemtb999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,427
    Quote Originally Posted by trhoppe View Post
    My knocking/creaking issues were because the chain was too short. It seems that these derailleurs are more sensitive to a shorter chain. My bike (Trek Remedy) has lots of chain growth and I was measuring chain length without having the suspension compressed. 2 chain links extra at full compression ends up being almost 5 chain links extra at static height.

    Now that I've got proper chain length it's quiet as a mouse and has amazing shifting.

    -Tom
    Same here. My x9 type 2 was knocking on my spider 29 and adding a set of links cured the knock issue. It seems the derailleur just doesn't like the cage that far forward in the stroke.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilether's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    511
    Nothing I did could remedy the issue I was having. To their credit SRAM sent a new derailleur to me and threw in a brand new, upgraded chain to boot. I love good customer service.

  34. #34
    I <3 dirt
    Reputation: Ilikemtb999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,427
    Nice!

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jazzanova's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,652
    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    I've read that maybe a Medium cage is better for 36T rear cog. Can anyone comment? Still waiting to see how things pan out with this derailleur.

    And will it be released in SRAM's other X.9 colors - red and white?
    I run a small xo type 2 cage woth 11-36 1x10 setup. No problems. Though it might be harder to adjust it properly.

  36. #36
    Boriqua Puneta
    Reputation: chtorres2's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    178

    Its not a chain growth issue

    I just installed a new x9 type 2 short cage and no matter what gear i put the cassete in when I push down on the suspension it makes thee clunking sound. If I put my hand on the clutch part of the deraileur I can feel it. I ride a 1X10 and putting it in the 11T in the casset were it has the most slack of chain you can still hear the clunk. It comes down to good ideas with piss poor planning and production

    Ive included pics of how the deraileur looks like in the 11T and in the 36T of the rear cassette. Youll notice that its not a chain slack issue when its in the 11T.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-pc060236.jpg  

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-pc060237.jpg  

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-pc060238.jpg  

    Last edited by chtorres2; 12-06-2012 at 10:03 PM. Reason: Pics
    Only type of shuttle I ride....the ambulance!

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,270
    Quote Originally Posted by chtorres2 View Post
    I just installed a new x9 type 2 short cage and no matter what gear i put the cassete in when I push down on the suspension it makes thee clunking sound. If I put my hand on the clutch part of the deraileur I can feel it. I ride a 1X10 and putting it in the 11T in the casset were it has the most slack of chain you can still hear the clunk. It comes down to good ideas with piss poor planning and production

    Ive included pics of how the deraileur looks like in the 11T and in the 36T of the rear cassette. Youll notice that its not a chain slack issue when its in the 11T.
    I'm running a 2x10 and having the exact same issue. I can take the chain off and rotate the cage which will then bind and release creating a knocking noise. When I first noticed the knocking it thought it was the pivots on my brand new bike. The X9 type 2 is the issue.

    SRAM is supposed to warranty so I'll see if the new one does this as well.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    125
    Quote Originally Posted by neilether View Post
    ...SRAM sent a new derailleur to me and threw in a brand new, upgraded chain to boot. I love good customer service.
    Do you mean that figuratively as in to a bike shop on your behalf, or do you work at a shop, or did they send it to you direct? I've had three email exchanges with SRAM USA, and each reply states "We don't do anything consumer direct.".

    My issue is the chain jumps the lower pulley when shifting from the big ring to small ring, at light load and low rpm. I've seen mention in the MTBR XX derailleur review of some XX owners having this issue, but no other reports like this with Type2 derailleurs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-p1020107.jpg  

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-p1020110.jpg  

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-p1020112.jpg  


  39. #39
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,101
    Been riding my 2+ month old X0 type2 almost daily (8-12 miles of mountain trail + road to / from home) and still working smoothly.

    I do all my own wrenching / installed so if anything breaks it's all my own fault (LOL) . The key in the Type2 adjustment is probably the B pivot adjustment. Had to muck around with it to make it clear the chainstay pivot and still shift cleanly.

    Haven't done much maintenance on the derailleur either.... just ride ride ride and then clean / dust weekly, as and when I'm bored...

    -S

    Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    962
    Just curious about what year model the problem derailleurs are... You can tell by looking at the joint where the cage meets the der. body. The 2012's have a big Torx star nut there, and the 2013's have a smooth cap in its place. I would love to hear from those of you who are having this problem... I have a little time on my 2013 XO type 2 and no problems yet. I want to buy one for my other bike but if the 2013's are still problematic I'll just go with a shadow+ XTR. THANKS!!!!!

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    2

    sram type 2

    Quote Originally Posted by testtech View Post
    My medium cage XO type 2 is now working flawlessly on 11-36. The original problems were the result of an installation error by the bike shop mechanic. All I got from this experience was that I will use a different bike shop;
    That's great news as I am having exactly the same problem. What was the installation error? How did you fix it?

    Thanks!

    ****whoops, never mind as the answer was earlier in the thread and I just missed it
    Last edited by belcourt; 01-08-2013 at 08:46 PM. Reason: found my answer earlier in the thread

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilether's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    511
    Quote Originally Posted by HillDancer View Post
    Do you mean that figuratively as in to a bike shop on your behalf, or do you work at a shop, or did they send it to you direct? I've had three email exchanges with SRAM USA, and each reply states "We don't do anything consumer direct.".
    Figuratively. My bike shop called it in and got the warranty replacement parts on my behalf.

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    962
    Well, I went ahead and got another XO type 2 for my second bike. Now running:
    2x10 with Medium cage XO on my Yeti ASR 5
    1X9 with short cage on my TI hardtail.

    I started to hear the "knock" today on the ASR 5. By fiddling around, I figured out that the sound is just related to the initial overcoming of the friction of the clutch. If you just push down on the lower half of the chain loop you will hear the click. You can also hear it if you listen carefully when you shift. I think it could just be part of the breaking -in process, I'll update again after more hours
    Last edited by max_lombardy; 01-26-2013 at 12:27 AM.

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    664
    I just installed an X9 type 2 RD on my bike. Running 1x10 (32t up front and 12-36 in the back). It took a bit longer than normal to get it set up but not too bad. I only have one ride in on it but I'm supremely impressed with the noise reduction. I didn't realize just how noisy my chain was until this morning. The lock feature is amazing too. Makes getting the wheel on and off and removing the chain infinitely easier. Hopefully it keeps working like it did this morning. I'll follow up when I get some more rides in on it.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Sasquatch29's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    33
    I have an medium cage on a 11-36 cassette with a 22-36 crank on a Yeti SB95, it's a tight fit but it works. Variables not foreseen by Sram include RD hanger geometry and chain length growth. Sram's chain length instructions are not very useful. If you expect to bomb all day in the small-small or large-large combination, then definitely follow Sram's compatibility chart. In my case, Yeti tempered the RD hanger to be a sacrificial lamb to avoid bending the frame. My LBS reports the QR pinner skewer RD hangar can bend under the clutch load. I have the 12x142 chip with larger RD hangar, but I still want to keep the medium cage to reduce the loads on the RD hangar. I think if you don't verify the chain isn't too short, you can generate enough loads during suspension compression to damage the clutch resulting in noisy/notchy clutch action. Here is my set up:
    sasquatch29er.blogspot.com

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ocguy2004's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    277
    3 rides on my mid cage type 2 and i'm not a fan. much better ride with my old type 1. didn't account for its super sensitivity to chain growth and the cage would lock on me during rides when the rear shock compressed. plus it gets very difficult to shift at times. hoping my LBS will exchange it for a type one and make me a happy rider again. i'd say avoid this thing til sram can get it right.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    15
    noticed this too on my brand new mech

    pretty disappointed considering the $$ i spent on this mech

    has the knock decreased with use for those who have been using this for a while?

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    23
    Have been riding my type 2 for nearly six months and no problems at all, I love this thing.

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ocguy2004's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by chopstickslee View Post
    noticed this too on my brand new mech

    pretty disappointed considering the $$ i spent on this mech

    has the knock decreased with use for those who have been using this for a while?
    I think it might have with mine...either that or I've gotten used to it. I put on a new ,longer chain and took off my chain guide. wasn't happy with the shifting last week. my plan is to beat the crap out of it and go back to using the type 1. if they no longer offer the x9 in type 1 I will drop to x7.

  50. #50
    just ride
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    643
    I have mid cage x9 type 2 on my superlight 1x10 setup, no chainguide just chain keeper (Paul's). I found out about this thread after I purchased the x9 but still went ahead and used the RD. From day one, I have been hearing this very slight clicking noise BUT only when I pedal off the saddle on harder gear. I will have to double check if it's even the RD. I'll give an update on this. Fyi... This RD came from my hardtail and I didn't have the clicking noise on that bike.

    I recently picked up a short cage X9 type 2 for my Stumpy Evo FSR. I released the air on the rear shock and kept the chain at 32T Front/36T rear (also 1x10 setup) then compressed the shock. Absolutely no clicking noise or whatsoever. I'll have to see how it goes on the trail.

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ocguy2004's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by Tjay View Post
    I have mid cage x9 type 2 on my superlight 1x10 setup, no chainguide just chain keeper (Paul's). I found out about this thread after I purchased the x9 but still went ahead and used the RD. From day one, I have been hearing this very slight clicking noise BUT only when I pedal off the saddle on harder gear. I will have to double check if it's even the RD. I'll give an update on this. Fyi... This RD came from my hardtail and I didn't have the clicking noise on that bike.

    I recently picked up a short cage X9 type 2 for my Stumpy Evo FSR. I released the air on the rear shock and kept the chain at 32T Front/36T rear (also 1x10 setup) then compressed the shock. Absolutely no clicking noise or whatsoever. I'll have to see how it goes on the trail.
    the clunking could be the clutch mechanism or could be the silver stopper banging against the derailleur body. seems the cage doesn't have the same range of motion as the type 1 RD. the stopper on mine actually broke through the plastic derailleur body and got stuck where the lock button is located, locking the cage as I was riding. I had to lengthen the chain 2 links to prevent this from happening. I've heard of some type2's being warrantied for the clunking if it's the clutch...depends on your LBS. you may need to try a longer chain.

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hani1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    237
    I now have this dreaded knock as well. I believe I have my chain set a couple links too short hopefully that will remedy the problem.

    If not then I guess it is time to look a the Shadow.

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ocguy2004's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by hani1 View Post
    I now have this dreaded knock as well. I believe I have my chain set a couple links too short hopefully that will remedy the problem.

    If not then I guess it is time to look a the Shadow.
    since I put on the longer chain I haven't noticed the knock anymore. I do think it was the stopper knocking against the derailleur body. seems to be working ok now. I did order the "dangler" specialized chainguide that hangs from the chainstay. i'll give that a try. my friend has the clutch midcage RD and the dangler on his new stumpy and it works fine so i'll give that at try, although it has been ok without the chainguide so far.

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,270
    I've had mine replaced from SRAM. Even with the new on and a longer chain I still get the knock when the suspension compresses. It may be time to go to the shimano clutch rear der.

    Can a SRAM 10 speed rear shifter be used with a Shimano 10 speed rear der?

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ocguy2004's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    I've had mine replaced from SRAM. Even with the new on and a longer chain I still get the knock when the suspension compresses. It may be time to go to the shimano clutch rear der.

    Can a SRAM 10 speed rear shifter be used with a Shimano 10 speed rear der?
    here's what i've read about mixing...

    "normally when one mixes SRAM and Shimano in mechs and shifters the result is the mech tearing itself apart.

    The reason is that they pull at different ratios of cable to movement. SRAM is 1:1, which means the length of cable pulled is the same as the distance the derallieur moves up/down the cassette. Shimano is 1:1.something, meaning the derallieur goes further for the same length of cable pulled, hence why the combination of Shimano and SRAM tears itself apart."

    The silver stopper on my type II already broke thru the derailleur body...so maybe that's why my knocking has stopped.

  56. #56
    May contain nuts
    Reputation: Haggis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,052
    Replaced a mid-length X9 type 1 that took a trip into the spokes after 18 months solid service with a long cage type 2 after finding out about the reduced chain capacity of type 2. I hate the thing - it cost more, it weighs more, it's heavier on the thumb to shift, it's slower than the snappy mid cage to shift, and you can hear & feel the clutch break free on every suspension compression. Avoid type 2...

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hani1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    237
    I am a little pissed with the knocking noise. The rest of the performance has bee fine so far. I will say I have not noticed the knocking as much while on the trail but mostly when bouncing around in the lot or in the driveway.

    It is frustrating that you read endless reviews about a product and never hear a peep about an obvious design flaw

  58. #58
    Team Hardcore Cornbread
    Reputation: Phishin Paul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    525
    2 rear der cables snapped in 2 months on my medium type 2. I never had this issue with the older xo model. My LBS reported to me a high number of customers having the same issue. He said SRAM is aware but are not doing anything right now. Anyone else having this problem?
    "Set the gearshift for the high gear of your soul".

  59. #59
    just ride
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    643
    I have both small and mid. Both makes knocking noise even with extended chain. It doesn't bother me though cause I only hear it when I'm on an easy gear, climbing uphill while standing. Going down, I can't hear it at all.

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    19
    I have a medium that makes the knocking noise. I get this noise when on the trail. Super annoying. I got the derailleur warrantied, but we'll see if it makes the same noise. Does anyone know how to take it apart? I want to lube up the clutch so its not so "sudden" when the clutch breaks loose... kind of like the Shimano version.

    SRAM X9 type 2 issues - YouTube

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    962

    Not worried about the knock

    Quote Originally Posted by Phishin Paul View Post
    2 rear der cables snapped in 2 months on my medium type 2. I never had this issue with the older xo model. My LBS reported to me a high number of customers having the same issue. He said SRAM is aware but are not doing anything right now. Anyone else having this problem?
    I can't imagine actually snapping a shift cable... How hard did you push it before it snapped? Is everything south of your shifter in proper order?

    I actually have to say I like the type 2 despite the "dreaded" knock. I use a mid cage XO with XX shifters, and it's the lightest action, most precise system I've ever used. For reference, I've also got a bike with XT shifters and an XTR shadow plus, and I still prefer the Sram. I've also used XX and XO type 1 derailleurs, and all kinds of pre-shadow plus Shimano stuff. I don't mind the knock, and the system is light and bulletproof. I'd buy it again.

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    19
    I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

    Solution:

    Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    19
    I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

    Solution:

    Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!

  64. #64
    bump and grind
    Reputation: cobym2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    706
    I have a 4 month old x9 type 2 installed on my turner RFX that was knocking also the past few rides, esp. on hard hits that used up some travel. At first I thought it was a bottom out, but the dust on my sliders and shock shaft evinced otherwise. Bouncing on the saddle and later pulling the chain up showed that it was the darn type 2 derailleur. The thing shifted ok (if a bit clunky) but the knocking was always at the back of my head. Then I happened upon this thread and confirmed my fears. Bummer. The knock was irritating and I contemplated selling the x9 or moving it to my hardtail (which had a classic XTR 950 8 speed drivetrain that worked flawlessly).

    Anyway, Thanks to Thomaskrap, I proceeded as suggested below - lifted the plastic cover with a knife (and proceeded to scratch my torx bolt :S - be careful), unscrewed the giant torx screw, and blasted the clutch area inside with 1) WD 40, and later 2) chain lube - whilst cycling the derailleur continuously.
    The derailleur now doesnt knock and still holds the chain tension pretty well. The force needed to move the derailleur is still higher than the out-of-the-box tension on my XT shadow plus on another bike, but there is no feeling of having to "break the grip" which was the cause of the knock. Smoother.

    Derailleur saved.



    Quote Originally Posted by thomaskrap View Post
    I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

    Solution:

    Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    301
    gah, i think i have this issue now after a few months of riding. Going to take a look later
    2013 Ibis Mojo HD Special Blend with dropper post, hope/stans wheelset and hope x2/m4 brakes

  66. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    19
    Update:

    The derailleur ended up "clicking" instead of knocking after a few rides. Took things apart with no resolution. I got the derailleur warrantied and there are absolutely no problems now. No clicking, no knocking. I felt a noticeable difference in the tension of the new derailleur in comparison to the original derailleur. There was no more dragging feeling in the derailleur and what seemed like less tension in the derailleur arm... all smooth now. The shifting has improved as well.

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jon123's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    857
    Quote Originally Posted by thomaskrap View Post
    Update:

    The derailleur ended up "clicking" instead of knocking after a few rides. Took things apart with no resolution. I got the derailleur warrantied and there are absolutely no problems now. No clicking, no knocking. I felt a noticeable difference in the tension of the new derailleur in comparison to the original derailleur. There was no more dragging feeling in the derailleur and what seemed like less tension in the derailleur arm... all smooth now. The shifting has improved as well.

    thomaskrap: How did you get it warrantied? Through your bike shop or directly through Sram?

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation: slapmackie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    153
    After working great for only 3 or 4 rides my T2 rear derailleur is binding up as I shift into larger gears, completely locks up!? I noticed shifting was getting super stiff, almost takes brute force just to shift up a single gear. When I first installed it it would not shift at all, I had to take it back off the bike and force the arm to move by hand and that too took a lot of force. It gave off a cracking sound like it was put together with locktight? Not happy...I spent over $600 dollars converting to a 10 speed setup and now I can't even ride....
    "too weird to live, too rare to die"

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    205
    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Replaced a mid-length X9 type 1 that took a trip into the spokes after 18 months solid service with a long cage type 2 after finding out about the reduced chain capacity of type 2. I hate the thing - it cost more, it weighs more, it's heavier on the thumb to shift, it's slower than the snappy mid cage to shift, and you can hear & feel the clutch break free on every suspension compression. Avoid type 2...
    why did you change from medium to long cage?

    I went from long cage X9 to Medium X9 T2 on a 3x setup but about to change to 1x. I also changed from X7 shifter to X0.
    since swapping over I have never noticed any of this knocking, not sure what i should be listening for.... has anyone made a recording of the phenomenon?

  70. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    125
    A follow-up on post #38. The X9 Type II was replaced under warranty. Despite being beat up in the mail, the replacement derailleur shifts fine, and the chain no longer rides up pulley teeth nor derails from the lower pulley. What I notice different about the two derailleurs, the original plates were tight to begin with, and became sloppy later, plus the cage was straight in-line on the high gear. The replacement has remained tight, and the cage is angled outward (appears bent, shipping damage perhaps) in high gear. In fact the cage will contact the derailleur body if allowed to completely retract without cable tension. Clutch resistance feels a bit more linear on the replacement than the original also.

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    10
    I just unboxed my new XO type 2 rear der. from Chain Reaction and i notice that when swinging the cage by hand it pivots with a smooth motion. When i first checked out these der at my LBS i did the same thing and remember the cage pivoting with a dull clicking in the tension, almost like a ratchet. So which one is correct, is it supposed to be a smooth pivot or is supposed to click

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    962
    Not supposed to click. The "clutch" is designed to apply a smooth resistance to the cage's forward motion only. Any kind of ratcheting would definitely be cause for concern. The "click" or "knock" users describe is likely the sound made when initially overcoming the static friction of the clutch mechanism while it's at rest. It's a one-time sound (per forward motion of the cage).

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    10
    Thanx Max, the one i have is then correct.

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    3

    Good job! Sorted

    :thumbsup:Just a quick note I work in a bike shop in New Zealand the clutch rear mec dose have a small problem with the clutch being to dry from factory and all the latest stock coming out now seems to be fine and we are about to service some even though sram says you can't we have been told how and we try on some of our test bikes so we have got it sorted before we try a customers hope this helps

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jon123's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    857
    Cycle man...What is it that you've done to service it?

  76. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    3

    Grease

    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    Cycle man...What is it that you've done to service it?
    Once we have it apart we will use teflon grease in and around the roller bearing

  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    967
    Quote Originally Posted by Cycle man View Post
    Once we have it apart we will use teflon grease in and around the roller bearing
    This post is worthless without pics

    Can you at least snap a couple or give a more thorough description? How far do you take them apart? I've got 3 of these suckers.

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    3
    Sorry mate you are right haven't got any picks yet will get back to you and your lbs should do this for you for free or sram

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    103
    I am glad I found this post! I am having the same issues on my bike and i have a XO medium cage 2013 rear derailer type 2 that is knocking like crazy in the low gears and the higer gears but the middle of the cog is a little better.

    I converted my 2012 camber carbon expert to a 1x10, 36 wolftooth front sprocket and 11x36 rear all new 2013 parts and after about the 3rd ride all the noise started.

    The bike shop is getting a smaller cup spacer for my crank (I left it stock) so i will have a better chain line to see if this helps any. My lbs has checked everything from chain length to derailer hanger etc and all is right on the money. I am still riding it but more of an annoyance for new parts to have this issue.

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    103
    For what it is worth do not take it apart it made mine worse. So what i really mean is that i destoried mine and snapped off the bolt that holds the backside of the clutch.

    Now that was not the end i also stripped out my 5mm hanger bolt. So going back to the x9 type 1 no more clutch. So in conclusion it was totally my fault for messing with it further and after three trips to different bike shops and three different chains still no resolution.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-image.jpg  

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-image.jpg  


  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    For what it is worth do not take it apart it made mine worse. So what i really mean is that i destoried mine and snapped off the bolt that holds the backside of the clutch.

    Now that was not the end i also stripped out my 5mm hanger bolt. So going back to the x9 type 1 no more clutch. So in conclusion it was totally my fault for messing with it further and after three trips to different bike shops and three different chains still no resolution.
    How did you remove the front cap (the one with Type 2 written on it) and the little plastic cap in the center of it. Are the reusable?

  82. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    103
    Yes they are reusable. It is just a plastic cap over top of the torx 50 star that u have to remove (simple utility knife is fine)to take it all apart but I would advise not to take it apart.

    In retrospect i should have maybe tried adjusting the B tension screw to see if this made any difference since this worked for another poster. What i noticed is that the knocking was worse moving up into the higher gears which was putting more tension on cassette and chain.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-image.jpg  

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-image.jpg  


  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilether's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    511
    I took mine apart and successfully got it back together. No more knocking. Wee!

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    Yes they are reusable. It is just a plastic cap over top of the torx 50 star that u have to remove (simple utility knife is fine)to take it all apart but I would advise not to take it apart.

    In retrospect i should have maybe tried adjusting the B tension screw to see if this made any difference since this worked for another poster. What i noticed is that the knocking was worse moving up into the higher gears which was putting more tension on cassette and chain.
    Thanks for the advice, I managed to open it with no damage. Do you remove the bearing? Eventually how? If there's no need the bearing, do you lubricate through the crack of that sort of c-ring in front of the bearing?

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    103
    I never removed the bearing and dont think it was the issue just the clutch was the issue.

  86. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    I never removed the bearing and dont think it was the issue just the clutch was the issue.
    but which is the clutch? Once you remove the torx screw, where do you go from there?

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    103
    I was referring to the spring in back under tension. Maybe someone else can answer better than me since i destroied mine.. 

  88. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    I was referring to the spring in back under tension. Maybe someone else can answer better than me since i destroied mine.. 
    oh, in that case...
    However, thank you for your help.

  89. #89
    \m/ \m/
    Reputation: Blade-Runner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    368
    Isn't SRAM working on a video on how to fix this issue?
    13' Lynskey M290
    13' Venge Pro Force
    13' Crux Elite
    12' Co-Motion Speedster Tandem

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JHwick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    165
    Here's a link to an article on servicing the Type 2 clutch that may help some people out. Even if you're not keen to disassemble it yourself, it'll give you a good idea of what's inside and you could always ask a store to do it if your sick of the 'knocking'.
    I did this to my XX1 derailleur almost a year ago and haven't heard anything from it since - Slick Honey or Slickolium seems to do a really good job. Just make sure you only 'lightly' tighten the big T55 torx cap when reassembling and you'll be set.

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

  91. #91
    \m/ \m/
    Reputation: Blade-Runner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    368
    Thanks for the info!
    13' Lynskey M290
    13' Venge Pro Force
    13' Crux Elite
    12' Co-Motion Speedster Tandem

  92. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jon123's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    857
    I was able to fix the problem (and the knocking on mine was fairly bad) with just removing the main cap and greasing the roller clutch. No other steps required. Takes all of a couple minutes.
    Just a note, initially I used oil as shown in the diagram but the problem came back fairly quick.
    I then switched to the Park Tools thick grease, putting quite a bit in there. Problem-free after several months now.

  93. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    967
    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    I was able to fix the problem (and the knocking on mine was fairly bad) with just removing the main cap and greasing the roller clutch. No other steps required. Takes all of a couple minutes.
    Just a note, initially I used oil as shown in the diagram but the problem came back fairly quick.
    I then switched to the Park Tools thick grease, putting quite a bit in there. Problem-free after several months now.
    So when you did that, did you just essentially pack some grease in there after removing the T55 bolt? Did you undo the cage and the 3mm allen and do the other items described in that writeup?

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jon123's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    857
    Quote Originally Posted by trhoppe View Post
    So when you did that, did you just essentially pack some grease in there after removing the T55 bolt? Did you undo the cage and the 3mm allen and do the other items described in that writeup?

    Essentially, yes. I loosened the roller clutch nut slightly to let the grease work its way in. That's all. None of the other steps.
    When you tighten the main cap just be careful not to over tighten it or that will make shifting hard. I leave it so there's a thread or two still visible.

  95. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    73
    I think I was getting the knocking sound on my full sus on the short cage I had back in this post. However I'd decided to get one for the hard tail also so moved the short cage to the hard tail and got another type 2 for the full sus but this time a medium cage.

    Reason being that the short seemed to have a stretching creaking sound when shifting to the lower gears and wondered if short cage was stressing it too much and might be causing the knocking also.

    Anyway, knocking gone on the hard tail as there's no rear suspension. Creaking is still there but not much of a bother. I do wonder if it's going to make it fail though.

    Next issue though is the medium cage I got for the full sus was working great for many months, keeping tension and chain slap minimal to none. Recently though chain slap all over the place and it's very easy to pull the cage forward by hand unlike the short cage on the other bike which is very hard to pull forward.

    Has the clutch "gone" in some way, and what can I do about it? Just seems like it's no longer a clutch mech now. Chain is not that worn and just to double check I removed a link but the chain was definitely too short then. If I had it serviced the same way to sort out the knocking as others are getting, would it sort this problem out also I wonder. Looks like I could do with both mechs servicing really.

    Short of doing it myself, is it worth getting it done by LBS (who would probably send it off I assume), given the repair price vs the price of a new mech (x9)? And anyone had them repaired in the UK and who by?

    p.s. Narrow-wide chainrings... awesome! No more guides and devices. I run these (Works Components) on both bikes and not a chain drop once or hint of one

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Znarf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,041
    I'd love to know this also.
    My XXO1 rear derailleur seems also to have lost its damping capabilities.
    Worked fine for a couple of months, no chain slap but now the chain is as loud as with a classic RD.
    I warrantied it and SRAM says there'd be no issue at all,
    I am pretty curious if it'll work again as advertised once I get it back...

    Quote Originally Posted by deadkenny View Post
    I think I was getting the knocking sound on my full sus on the short cage I had back in this post. However I'd decided to get one for the hard tail also so moved the short cage to the hard tail and got another type 2 for the full sus but this time a medium cage.

    Reason being that the short seemed to have a stretching creaking sound when shifting to the lower gears and wondered if short cage was stressing it too much and might be causing the knocking also.

    Anyway, knocking gone on the hard tail as there's no rear suspension. Creaking is still there but not much of a bother. I do wonder if it's going to make it fail though.

    Next issue though is the medium cage I got for the full sus was working great for many months, keeping tension and chain slap minimal to none. Recently though chain slap all over the place and it's very easy to pull the cage forward by hand unlike the short cage on the other bike which is very hard to pull forward.

    Has the clutch "gone" in some way, and what can I do about it? Just seems like it's no longer a clutch mech now. Chain is not that worn and just to double check I removed a link but the chain was definitely too short then. If I had it serviced the same way to sort out the knocking as others are getting, would it sort this problem out also I wonder. Looks like I could do with both mechs servicing really.

    Short of doing it myself, is it worth getting it done by LBS (who would probably send it off I assume), given the repair price vs the price of a new mech (x9)? And anyone had them repaired in the UK and who by?

    p.s. Narrow-wide chainrings... awesome! No more guides and devices. I run these (Works Components) on both bikes and not a chain drop once or hint of one

  97. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dry Cownty Brewer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    627
    I just tried to service mine last night. Using the box cutter razor blade to extract the plastic cap, I managed to only chip out the cap piece by piece. I did get the T50 opened up and greased. Hopefully this helps, because I really scratched the derailleur up the the process.

    I was experiencing the very noticeable "knocking". However, the even bigger problem I was trying to correct by tightening the clutch was to try and prevent chain drop from my 36T ring to the 24T ring.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    962
    Not sure how tightening the rear derailleur clutch would halp chain drop up front... You might check chain and chainrings for wear and make sure your front mech is properly aligned. Also, as many people have stated, the knock is nothing to worry about.

  99. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dry Cownty Brewer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    627
    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    Not sure how tightening the rear derailleur clutch would halp chain drop up front... You might check chain and chainrings for wear and make sure your front mech is properly aligned. Also, as many people have stated, the knock is nothing to worry about.
    I'm just covering all bases. The chain ring is new <120 miles. I have a new chain on the way, and just checked FD alignment again. The reason why I was convinced to buy a Type 2 in the first place was the same chain drop issue when the terrain gets rough. It went away for quite a few months since installing the type 2 new, but now it is as bad as when it started. Ergo - adjust the clutch to take up any slack that might have developed over time.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  100. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ryandurepo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    185
    i had chain drop issues on my 2x10 setup up front too through rough braking bumps. had new chain on there and my chainrings werent terrible and my fd was adjusted good. I put an x0 type 2 on and i never had it happen again, since then ive ditched dual chainrings and went xx1 up front and love it.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •