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SRAM type 2 derailleur issues

62K views 145 replies 70 participants last post by  RS VR6 
#1 ·
Hey All:

I've been running an X9 type 2 derailleur for around 3 weeks now. Everything you've read is true: chain slap is nearly eliminated and the frequency of dropped chains is reduced (at least compared to a SRAM xx 2x10 rear der.) BUT, I've developed a strange and irritating issue:

The clutch seems to have fallen out of tune or something. It takes a significant force to overcome the clutch at this point. When the cage finally moves forward I hear a fairly loud click. I hear this click every time I cycle past 40% travel in the rear. I can also feel this force in the suspension travel. I've been riding primarily dusty terrain. I was caught in a biblical rain storm about a week ago. Anyone else discover similar issues? Is the clutch adjustable (i don't think so)?
 
#31 ·
No more issues - went to long cage.

I was having the clicking issues with a medium cage xo type 2 on a carbon tallboy with a 2x10 (11-36) setup. I switched to the XO long cage and have the chain length exactly as prescribed by SRAM (measure it in big/big OUT OF REAR DERAILLER, with suspension - if applicable fully compressed, then add one link AND the powerlink).

With that, my clicking is gone and shifting is nice.

Good luck!
 
#38 ·
...SRAM sent a new derailleur to me and threw in a brand new, upgraded chain to boot. I love good customer service.
Do you mean that figuratively as in to a bike shop on your behalf, or do you work at a shop, or did they send it to you direct? I've had three email exchanges with SRAM USA, and each reply states "We don't do anything consumer direct.".

My issue is the chain jumps the lower pulley when shifting from the big ring to small ring, at light load and low rpm. I've seen mention in the MTBR XX derailleur review of some XX owners having this issue, but no other reports like this with Type2 derailleurs.
 

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#36 · (Edited)
Its not a chain growth issue

I just installed a new x9 type 2 short cage and no matter what gear i put the cassete in when I push down on the suspension it makes thee clunking sound. If I put my hand on the clutch part of the deraileur I can feel it. I ride a 1X10 and putting it in the 11T in the casset were it has the most slack of chain you can still hear the clunk. It comes down to good ideas with piss poor planning and production :madman:

Ive included pics of how the deraileur looks like in the 11T and in the 36T of the rear cassette. Youll notice that its not a chain slack issue when its in the 11T.
 

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#37 ·
I just installed a new x9 type 2 short cage and no matter what gear i put the cassete in when I push down on the suspension it makes thee clunking sound. If I put my hand on the clutch part of the deraileur I can feel it. I ride a 1X10 and putting it in the 11T in the casset were it has the most slack of chain you can still hear the clunk. It comes down to good ideas with piss poor planning and production :madman:

Ive included pics of how the deraileur looks like in the 11T and in the 36T of the rear cassette. Youll notice that its not a chain slack issue when its in the 11T.
I'm running a 2x10 and having the exact same issue. I can take the chain off and rotate the cage which will then bind and release creating a knocking noise. When I first noticed the knocking it thought it was the pivots on my brand new bike. The X9 type 2 is the issue.

SRAM is supposed to warranty so I'll see if the new one does this as well.
 
#39 ·
Been riding my 2+ month old X0 type2 almost daily (8-12 miles of mountain trail + road to / from home) and still working smoothly.

I do all my own wrenching / installed so if anything breaks it's all my own fault (LOL) . The key in the Type2 adjustment is probably the B pivot adjustment. Had to muck around with it to make it clear the chainstay pivot and still shift cleanly.

Haven't done much maintenance on the derailleur either.... just ride ride ride and then clean / dust weekly, as and when I'm bored...

-S

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
 
#40 ·
Just curious about what year model the problem derailleurs are... You can tell by looking at the joint where the cage meets the der. body. The 2012's have a big Torx star nut there, and the 2013's have a smooth cap in its place. I would love to hear from those of you who are having this problem... I have a little time on my 2013 XO type 2 and no problems yet. I want to buy one for my other bike but if the 2013's are still problematic I'll just go with a shadow+ XTR. THANKS!!!!!
 
#43 · (Edited)
Well, I went ahead and got another XO type 2 for my second bike. Now running:
2x10 with Medium cage XO on my Yeti ASR 5
1X9 with short cage on my TI hardtail.

I started to hear the "knock" today on the ASR 5. By fiddling around, I figured out that the sound is just related to the initial overcoming of the friction of the clutch. If you just push down on the lower half of the chain loop you will hear the click. You can also hear it if you listen carefully when you shift. I think it could just be part of the breaking -in process, I'll update again after more hours
 
#44 ·
I just installed an X9 type 2 RD on my bike. Running 1x10 (32t up front and 12-36 in the back). It took a bit longer than normal to get it set up but not too bad. I only have one ride in on it but I'm supremely impressed with the noise reduction. I didn't realize just how noisy my chain was until this morning. The lock feature is amazing too. Makes getting the wheel on and off and removing the chain infinitely easier. Hopefully it keeps working like it did this morning. I'll follow up when I get some more rides in on it.
 
#45 ·
I have an medium cage on a 11-36 cassette with a 22-36 crank on a Yeti SB95, it's a tight fit but it works. Variables not foreseen by Sram include RD hanger geometry and chain length growth. Sram's chain length instructions are not very useful. If you expect to bomb all day in the small-small or large-large combination, then definitely follow Sram's compatibility chart. In my case, Yeti tempered the RD hanger to be a sacrificial lamb to avoid bending the frame. My LBS reports the QR pinner skewer RD hangar can bend under the clutch load. I have the 12x142 chip with larger RD hangar, but I still want to keep the medium cage to reduce the loads on the RD hangar. I think if you don't verify the chain isn't too short, you can generate enough loads during suspension compression to damage the clutch resulting in noisy/notchy clutch action. Here is my set up:
sasquatch29er.blogspot.com
 
#46 ·
3 rides on my mid cage type 2 and i'm not a fan. much better ride with my old type 1. didn't account for its super sensitivity to chain growth and the cage would lock on me during rides when the rear shock compressed. plus it gets very difficult to shift at times. hoping my LBS will exchange it for a type one and make me a happy rider again. i'd say avoid this thing til sram can get it right.
 
#49 ·
I think it might have with mine...either that or I've gotten used to it. I put on a new ,longer chain and took off my chain guide. wasn't happy with the shifting last week. my plan is to beat the crap out of it and go back to using the type 1. if they no longer offer the x9 in type 1 I will drop to x7.
 
#50 ·
I have mid cage x9 type 2 on my superlight 1x10 setup, no chainguide just chain keeper (Paul's). I found out about this thread after I purchased the x9 but still went ahead and used the RD. From day one, I have been hearing this very slight clicking noise BUT only when I pedal off the saddle on harder gear. I will have to double check if it's even the RD. I'll give an update on this. Fyi... This RD came from my hardtail and I didn't have the clicking noise on that bike.

I recently picked up a short cage X9 type 2 for my Stumpy Evo FSR. I released the air on the rear shock and kept the chain at 32T Front/36T rear (also 1x10 setup) then compressed the shock. Absolutely no clicking noise or whatsoever. I'll have to see how it goes on the trail.
 
#51 ·
the clunking could be the clutch mechanism or could be the silver stopper banging against the derailleur body. seems the cage doesn't have the same range of motion as the type 1 RD. the stopper on mine actually broke through the plastic derailleur body and got stuck where the lock button is located, locking the cage as I was riding. I had to lengthen the chain 2 links to prevent this from happening. I've heard of some type2's being warrantied for the clunking if it's the clutch...depends on your LBS. you may need to try a longer chain.
 
#53 ·
I now have this dreaded knock as well. I believe I have my chain set a couple links too short hopefully that will remedy the problem.

If not then I guess it is time to look a the Shadow.
since I put on the longer chain I haven't noticed the knock anymore. I do think it was the stopper knocking against the derailleur body. seems to be working ok now. I did order the "dangler" specialized chainguide that hangs from the chainstay. i'll give that a try. my friend has the clutch midcage RD and the dangler on his new stumpy and it works fine so i'll give that at try, although it has been ok without the chainguide so far.
 
#55 ·
here's what i've read about mixing...

"normally when one mixes SRAM and Shimano in mechs and shifters the result is the mech tearing itself apart.

The reason is that they pull at different ratios of cable to movement. SRAM is 1:1, which means the length of cable pulled is the same as the distance the derallieur moves up/down the cassette. Shimano is 1:1.something, meaning the derallieur goes further for the same length of cable pulled, hence why the combination of Shimano and SRAM tears itself apart."

The silver stopper on my type II already broke thru the derailleur body...so maybe that's why my knocking has stopped.
 
#56 ·
Replaced a mid-length X9 type 1 that took a trip into the spokes after 18 months solid service with a long cage type 2 after finding out about the reduced chain capacity of type 2. I hate the thing - it cost more, it weighs more, it's heavier on the thumb to shift, it's slower than the snappy mid cage to shift, and you can hear & feel the clutch break free on every suspension compression. Avoid type 2...
 
#69 ·
why did you change from medium to long cage?

I went from long cage X9 to Medium X9 T2 on a 3x setup but about to change to 1x. I also changed from X7 shifter to X0.
since swapping over I have never noticed any of this knocking, not sure what i should be listening for.... has anyone made a recording of the phenomenon?
 
#57 ·
I am a little pissed with the knocking noise. The rest of the performance has bee fine so far. I will say I have not noticed the knocking as much while on the trail but mostly when bouncing around in the lot or in the driveway.

It is frustrating that you read endless reviews about a product and never hear a peep about an obvious design flaw
 
#58 ·
2 rear der cables snapped in 2 months on my medium type 2. I never had this issue with the older xo model. My LBS reported to me a high number of customers having the same issue. He said SRAM is aware but are not doing anything right now. Anyone else having this problem?
 
#61 ·
Not worried about the knock


I can't imagine actually snapping a shift cable... How hard did you push it before it snapped? Is everything south of your shifter in proper order?

I actually have to say I like the type 2 despite the "dreaded" knock. I use a mid cage XO with XX shifters, and it's the lightest action, most precise system I've ever used. For reference, I've also got a bike with XT shifters and an XTR shadow plus, and I still prefer the Sram. I've also used XX and XO type 1 derailleurs, and all kinds of pre-shadow plus Shimano stuff. I don't mind the knock, and the system is light and bulletproof. I'd buy it again.
 
#62 ·
I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

Solution:

Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!
 
#63 ·
I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

Solution:

Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!
 
#64 ·
I have a 4 month old x9 type 2 installed on my turner RFX that was knocking also the past few rides, esp. on hard hits that used up some travel. At first I thought it was a bottom out, but the dust on my sliders and shock shaft evinced otherwise. Bouncing on the saddle and later pulling the chain up showed that it was the darn type 2 derailleur. The thing shifted ok (if a bit clunky) but the knocking was always at the back of my head. Then I happened upon this thread and confirmed my fears. Bummer. The knock was irritating and I contemplated selling the x9 or moving it to my hardtail (which had a classic XTR 950 8 speed drivetrain that worked flawlessly).

Anyway, Thanks to Thomaskrap, I proceeded as suggested below - lifted the plastic cover with a knife (and proceeded to scratch my torx bolt :S - be careful), unscrewed the giant torx screw, and blasted the clutch area inside with 1) WD 40, and later 2) chain lube - whilst cycling the derailleur continuously.
The derailleur now doesnt knock and still holds the chain tension pretty well. The force needed to move the derailleur is still higher than the out-of-the-box tension on my XT shadow plus on another bike, but there is no feeling of having to "break the grip" which was the cause of the knock. Smoother.

Derailleur saved.

I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

Solution:

Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!
 
#66 ·
Update:

The derailleur ended up "clicking" instead of knocking after a few rides. Took things apart with no resolution. I got the derailleur warrantied and there are absolutely no problems now. No clicking, no knocking. I felt a noticeable difference in the tension of the new derailleur in comparison to the original derailleur. There was no more dragging feeling in the derailleur and what seemed like less tension in the derailleur arm... all smooth now. The shifting has improved as well.
 
#68 ·
After working great for only 3 or 4 rides my T2 rear derailleur is binding up as I shift into larger gears, completely locks up!? I noticed shifting was getting super stiff, almost takes brute force just to shift up a single gear. When I first installed it it would not shift at all, I had to take it back off the bike and force the arm to move by hand and that too took a lot of force. It gave off a cracking sound like it was put together with locktight? Not happy...I spent over $600 dollars converting to a 10 speed setup and now I can't even ride....
 
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