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  1. #76
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    Grease

    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    Cycle man...What is it that you've done to service it?
    Once we have it apart we will use teflon grease in and around the roller bearing

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cycle man View Post
    Once we have it apart we will use teflon grease in and around the roller bearing
    This post is worthless without pics

    Can you at least snap a couple or give a more thorough description? How far do you take them apart? I've got 3 of these suckers.

  3. #78
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    Sorry mate you are right haven't got any picks yet will get back to you and your lbs should do this for you for free or sram

  4. #79
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    I am glad I found this post! I am having the same issues on my bike and i have a XO medium cage 2013 rear derailer type 2 that is knocking like crazy in the low gears and the higer gears but the middle of the cog is a little better.

    I converted my 2012 camber carbon expert to a 1x10, 36 wolftooth front sprocket and 11x36 rear all new 2013 parts and after about the 3rd ride all the noise started.

    The bike shop is getting a smaller cup spacer for my crank (I left it stock) so i will have a better chain line to see if this helps any. My lbs has checked everything from chain length to derailer hanger etc and all is right on the money. I am still riding it but more of an annoyance for new parts to have this issue.

  5. #80
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    For what it is worth do not take it apart it made mine worse. So what i really mean is that i destoried mine and snapped off the bolt that holds the backside of the clutch.

    Now that was not the end i also stripped out my 5mm hanger bolt. So going back to the x9 type 1 no more clutch. So in conclusion it was totally my fault for messing with it further and after three trips to different bike shops and three different chains still no resolution.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-image.jpg  

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-image.jpg  


  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    For what it is worth do not take it apart it made mine worse. So what i really mean is that i destoried mine and snapped off the bolt that holds the backside of the clutch.

    Now that was not the end i also stripped out my 5mm hanger bolt. So going back to the x9 type 1 no more clutch. So in conclusion it was totally my fault for messing with it further and after three trips to different bike shops and three different chains still no resolution.
    How did you remove the front cap (the one with Type 2 written on it) and the little plastic cap in the center of it. Are the reusable?

  7. #82
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    Yes they are reusable. It is just a plastic cap over top of the torx 50 star that u have to remove (simple utility knife is fine)to take it all apart but I would advise not to take it apart.

    In retrospect i should have maybe tried adjusting the B tension screw to see if this made any difference since this worked for another poster. What i noticed is that the knocking was worse moving up into the higher gears which was putting more tension on cassette and chain.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-image.jpg  

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues-image.jpg  


  8. #83
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    I took mine apart and successfully got it back together. No more knocking. Wee!

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    Yes they are reusable. It is just a plastic cap over top of the torx 50 star that u have to remove (simple utility knife is fine)to take it all apart but I would advise not to take it apart.

    In retrospect i should have maybe tried adjusting the B tension screw to see if this made any difference since this worked for another poster. What i noticed is that the knocking was worse moving up into the higher gears which was putting more tension on cassette and chain.
    Thanks for the advice, I managed to open it with no damage. Do you remove the bearing? Eventually how? If there's no need the bearing, do you lubricate through the crack of that sort of c-ring in front of the bearing?

  10. #85
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    I never removed the bearing and dont think it was the issue just the clutch was the issue.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    I never removed the bearing and dont think it was the issue just the clutch was the issue.
    but which is the clutch? Once you remove the torx screw, where do you go from there?

  12. #87
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    I was referring to the spring in back under tension. Maybe someone else can answer better than me since i destroied mine.. 

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    I was referring to the spring in back under tension. Maybe someone else can answer better than me since i destroied mine.. 
    oh, in that case...
    However, thank you for your help.

  14. #89
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    Isn't SRAM working on a video on how to fix this issue?
    13' Lynskey M290
    13' Venge Pro Force
    13' Crux Elite
    12' Co-Motion Speedster Tandem

  15. #90
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    Here's a link to an article on servicing the Type 2 clutch that may help some people out. Even if you're not keen to disassemble it yourself, it'll give you a good idea of what's inside and you could always ask a store to do it if your sick of the 'knocking'.
    I did this to my XX1 derailleur almost a year ago and haven't heard anything from it since - Slick Honey or Slickolium seems to do a really good job. Just make sure you only 'lightly' tighten the big T55 torx cap when reassembling and you'll be set.

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

  16. #91
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    Thanks for the info!
    13' Lynskey M290
    13' Venge Pro Force
    13' Crux Elite
    12' Co-Motion Speedster Tandem

  17. #92
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    I was able to fix the problem (and the knocking on mine was fairly bad) with just removing the main cap and greasing the roller clutch. No other steps required. Takes all of a couple minutes.
    Just a note, initially I used oil as shown in the diagram but the problem came back fairly quick.
    I then switched to the Park Tools thick grease, putting quite a bit in there. Problem-free after several months now.

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    I was able to fix the problem (and the knocking on mine was fairly bad) with just removing the main cap and greasing the roller clutch. No other steps required. Takes all of a couple minutes.
    Just a note, initially I used oil as shown in the diagram but the problem came back fairly quick.
    I then switched to the Park Tools thick grease, putting quite a bit in there. Problem-free after several months now.
    So when you did that, did you just essentially pack some grease in there after removing the T55 bolt? Did you undo the cage and the 3mm allen and do the other items described in that writeup?

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by trhoppe View Post
    So when you did that, did you just essentially pack some grease in there after removing the T55 bolt? Did you undo the cage and the 3mm allen and do the other items described in that writeup?

    Essentially, yes. I loosened the roller clutch nut slightly to let the grease work its way in. That's all. None of the other steps.
    When you tighten the main cap just be careful not to over tighten it or that will make shifting hard. I leave it so there's a thread or two still visible.

  20. #95
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    I think I was getting the knocking sound on my full sus on the short cage I had back in this post. However I'd decided to get one for the hard tail also so moved the short cage to the hard tail and got another type 2 for the full sus but this time a medium cage.

    Reason being that the short seemed to have a stretching creaking sound when shifting to the lower gears and wondered if short cage was stressing it too much and might be causing the knocking also.

    Anyway, knocking gone on the hard tail as there's no rear suspension. Creaking is still there but not much of a bother. I do wonder if it's going to make it fail though.

    Next issue though is the medium cage I got for the full sus was working great for many months, keeping tension and chain slap minimal to none. Recently though chain slap all over the place and it's very easy to pull the cage forward by hand unlike the short cage on the other bike which is very hard to pull forward.

    Has the clutch "gone" in some way, and what can I do about it? Just seems like it's no longer a clutch mech now. Chain is not that worn and just to double check I removed a link but the chain was definitely too short then. If I had it serviced the same way to sort out the knocking as others are getting, would it sort this problem out also I wonder. Looks like I could do with both mechs servicing really.

    Short of doing it myself, is it worth getting it done by LBS (who would probably send it off I assume), given the repair price vs the price of a new mech (x9)? And anyone had them repaired in the UK and who by?

    p.s. Narrow-wide chainrings... awesome! No more guides and devices. I run these (Works Components) on both bikes and not a chain drop once or hint of one

  21. #96
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    I'd love to know this also.
    My XXO1 rear derailleur seems also to have lost its damping capabilities.
    Worked fine for a couple of months, no chain slap but now the chain is as loud as with a classic RD.
    I warrantied it and SRAM says there'd be no issue at all,
    I am pretty curious if it'll work again as advertised once I get it back...

    Quote Originally Posted by deadkenny View Post
    I think I was getting the knocking sound on my full sus on the short cage I had back in this post. However I'd decided to get one for the hard tail also so moved the short cage to the hard tail and got another type 2 for the full sus but this time a medium cage.

    Reason being that the short seemed to have a stretching creaking sound when shifting to the lower gears and wondered if short cage was stressing it too much and might be causing the knocking also.

    Anyway, knocking gone on the hard tail as there's no rear suspension. Creaking is still there but not much of a bother. I do wonder if it's going to make it fail though.

    Next issue though is the medium cage I got for the full sus was working great for many months, keeping tension and chain slap minimal to none. Recently though chain slap all over the place and it's very easy to pull the cage forward by hand unlike the short cage on the other bike which is very hard to pull forward.

    Has the clutch "gone" in some way, and what can I do about it? Just seems like it's no longer a clutch mech now. Chain is not that worn and just to double check I removed a link but the chain was definitely too short then. If I had it serviced the same way to sort out the knocking as others are getting, would it sort this problem out also I wonder. Looks like I could do with both mechs servicing really.

    Short of doing it myself, is it worth getting it done by LBS (who would probably send it off I assume), given the repair price vs the price of a new mech (x9)? And anyone had them repaired in the UK and who by?

    p.s. Narrow-wide chainrings... awesome! No more guides and devices. I run these (Works Components) on both bikes and not a chain drop once or hint of one

  22. #97
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    I just tried to service mine last night. Using the box cutter razor blade to extract the plastic cap, I managed to only chip out the cap piece by piece. I did get the T50 opened up and greased. Hopefully this helps, because I really scratched the derailleur up the the process.

    I was experiencing the very noticeable "knocking". However, the even bigger problem I was trying to correct by tightening the clutch was to try and prevent chain drop from my 36T ring to the 24T ring.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  23. #98
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    Not sure how tightening the rear derailleur clutch would halp chain drop up front... You might check chain and chainrings for wear and make sure your front mech is properly aligned. Also, as many people have stated, the knock is nothing to worry about.

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    Not sure how tightening the rear derailleur clutch would halp chain drop up front... You might check chain and chainrings for wear and make sure your front mech is properly aligned. Also, as many people have stated, the knock is nothing to worry about.
    I'm just covering all bases. The chain ring is new <120 miles. I have a new chain on the way, and just checked FD alignment again. The reason why I was convinced to buy a Type 2 in the first place was the same chain drop issue when the terrain gets rough. It went away for quite a few months since installing the type 2 new, but now it is as bad as when it started. Ergo - adjust the clutch to take up any slack that might have developed over time.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  25. #100
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    i had chain drop issues on my 2x10 setup up front too through rough braking bumps. had new chain on there and my chainrings werent terrible and my fd was adjusted good. I put an x0 type 2 on and i never had it happen again, since then ive ditched dual chainrings and went xx1 up front and love it.

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