Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 101 to 146 of 146
  1. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dry Cownty Brewer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    627
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryandurepo View Post
    i had chain drop issues on my 2x10 setup up front too through rough braking bumps. had new chain on there and my chainrings werent terrible and my fd was adjusted good. I put an x0 type 2 on and i never had it happen again, since then ive ditched dual chainrings and went xx1 up front and love it.
    How long have you been on your Type 2? I've had mine for just under a year. The chain drop problem resurfaced within the last month for me. Prior to that, I thought it was no longer an issue. Even with the longer teeth of a true 1X chainring, I have my doubts. If the Type 2 starts to weaken its chain tension ability then I will be dropping the chain into the frame.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  2. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dry Cownty Brewer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    627
    Is the general consensus to lengthen the chain a link? I've been doing the both outer ring outside derailleur, suspension fully engaged, plus one link thing. I've got a new chain coming today, and I don't like adding links (personal experience).
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  3. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ryandurepo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    182
    Quote Originally Posted by Dry Cownty Brewer View Post
    How long have you been on your Type 2? I've had mine for just under a year. The chain drop problem resurfaced within the last month for me. Prior to that, I thought it was no longer an issue. Even with the longer teeth of a true 1X chainring, I have my doubts. If the Type 2 starts to weaken its chain tension ability then I will be dropping the chain into the frame.
    ive been rocking it since about june, i have ridden all the same trails that i used to lose my chain on and i cant even hear chain slap, and if i do its very minimal. i just went xx1 chainring up front this winter so i havent tried it with that yet.

  4. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by Znarf View Post
    I'd love to know this also.
    My XXO1 rear derailleur seems also to have lost its damping capabilities.
    Worked fine for a couple of months, no chain slap but now the chain is as loud as with a classic RD.
    I warrantied it and SRAM says there'd be no issue at all,
    I am pretty curious if it'll work again as advertised once I get it back...
    Have you got it back?

    Mine X01 also feels like normal derailleur after few months of use...

  5. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    69
    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    Not sure how tightening the rear derailleur clutch would halp chain drop up front... You might check chain and chainrings for wear and make sure your front mech is properly aligned. Also, as many people have stated, the knock is nothing to worry about.
    The clutch should keep the chain in tension and help prevent it rolling off chainrings. I'm finding issues with my narrow/wide chainring though it could be because it's worn or the chain is wearing. The chain is below the first indicator on my chain checker so should be okay, but I did find I had to replace my chain on the hard tail with the narrow/wide on that also earlier than usual. Replaced chain, no drop.

    However the full sus definitely is suffering from slack chain.

    So as I understand it with the X9 Type 2, there's the T55 bolt but I'm reading there's another behind it that would in theory allow you to adjust the preload on the spring, thus add or remove tension?

    Problem is I undid the T55 but it wouldn't come out. It just kept rotating but after the thread ends, pulling it didn't pull it out.

    I'm also finding, sometimes the clutch is tensioning and sometimes not.

  6. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Znarf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,040
    I got a new rear derailleur from SRAM and mounted that up. It worked again as advertised and I never dropped the chain (ever ;-) )

    At some point this one started to creak and tick like crazy. That was not Srams fault however.
    I almost went nuts, nearly tore apart half of my bike, couln´t find anything.
    Then I noticed that the derailleur made noises when I touched the cage and then I re-read the instruction/mount-up manual and thought that I might not have greased the hanger bolt properly.

    And that was the culprit. I took the derailleur off, greased the hell out of the bolt/derailleur interface and the rotating part with the tension-screw and then greased the contact area to the hanger, loc-tited the thread and never had a single noise since then.

    The derailleur seems to put a different kind of load to the frame, because it rather moves sideways than up/down, as most conventional derailleurs do. At least that is my personal explanation.
    Never had to grease a hanger bolt before. But now that it works, I am fine with that...

    I really like my X01 again, the cassette starts to look pretty worn though...

    Greetings Znarf

  7. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    19
    I was wondering if anyone has found a solution to the XTR Shadow Plus issue with the knocking/clicking. I have a 2009 Fuel EX8 that knocks and I think its because of the chain growth forcing the rear der. to break away. Unless I am thinking about it wrong, I don't think adding a couple links will remedy the situation. Ideas?

  8. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    46

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues

    I have the dreaded crappy clutch syndrome on my brand new x9 sram medium derailer. Out of the box it was cr@p. Every time it went past 90 degrees, or vertical, it would hang there, and not snap back. I cant send it back because I brought off ebay. So far, despite two trips to the bike shop, the only thing that has worked is slackening off the outer torcx bolt quite a bit, and this stops it binding. I have it wound out about 2 or 3 threads and in the work-shop at least it appears to work. I will hit the trails on it tomorrow and see if it works in the real world. A very disappointing piece of kit. My buddy has the exact same model which works perfectly.

  9. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    870
    What you describe is not at all what has been reported in this thread. You have a lemon, and sad to say you can't execute your warranty. Good luck! I've never heard of that happening to the type 2's before. You might try some lubricant to help the cage rotate with the appropriate amount of friction.

  10. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JHwick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    151
    Quote Originally Posted by cousinmosquito View Post
    Every time it went past 90 degrees, or vertical, it would hang there, and not snap back.
    Sounds like a dud to me too - that's what I'd expect if the one-way roller clutch/bearing was put in the wrong way.

  11. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by JHwick View Post
    Sounds like a dud to me too - that's what I'd expect if the one-way roller clutch/bearing was put in the wrong way.
    Yeah POS, my bad for not buying local tho ! True I never had the knock, but the fix seems to be the same. Slacken off the torx or dismantle it and regrease.

    Thats an awesome tutorial on the aussie site but I thought I would try slackening off the outside bolt first. My guess is the tolerances are too variable and its a lottery as to how well its going to run out of the box, and for how long. Meanwhile my old black box XO just keeps on rocking : )

  12. #112
    I <3 dirt
    Reputation: Ilikemtb999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,412

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues

    Did it come in packaging?

  13. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by Ilikemtb999 View Post
    Did it come in packaging?
    Not so as you'd notice : ) Plastic bag I think.

    The crowd seems legit to me.

    Mr Ride 2014 SRAM x9 Type 2 Rear Derailleur 10 Speed Medium Cage | eBay

    "New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable). Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. See the seller's listing for full details."

  14. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    358
    I just started having an issue with my x9 rear derailleur. My bike has roughly 3,000 miles on it and it worked perfectly up until yesterday. Each pedal stroke, I can hear a clicking sound. I cant duplicate the sound in the stand by pedaling the bike, however, I can get it to click if I gently press on the arm of the derailleur towards the wheel. Performance hasn't suffered yet, but just wondering if I need to order a new one, or if it will last a while. Anyone else have experience with this?

  15. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Iboated's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    66
    Is this the issue where it locks and creates slack in the chain and the chain will pop off until the derailleur is reset? Mine started doing this yesterday, as in like the button engages and it swings there, however the button never engaged at all.. Reset it and good to go until it locks again..

    I got mine from Jenson so if this a known issue I will contact sram for a replacement..

    Quote Originally Posted by cousinmosquito View Post
    I have the dreaded crappy clutch syndrome on my brand new x9 sram medium derailer. Out of the box it was cr@p. Every time it went past 90 degrees, or vertical, it would hang there, and not snap back. I cant send it back because I brought off ebay. So far, despite two trips to the bike shop, the only thing that has worked is slackening off the outer torcx bolt quite a bit, and this stops it binding. I have it wound out about 2 or 3 threads and in the work-shop at least it appears to work. I will hit the trails on it tomorrow and see if it works in the real world. A very disappointing piece of kit. My buddy has the exact same model which works perfectly.

  16. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rcksqrl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    582

    SRAM type 2 derailleur issues

    Quote Originally Posted by cousinmosquito View Post
    I have the dreaded crappy clutch syndrome on my brand new x9 sram medium derailer. Out of the box it was cr@p. Every time it went past 90 degrees, or vertical, it would hang there, and not snap back. I cant send it back because I brought off ebay. So far, despite two trips to the bike shop, the only thing that has worked is slackening off the outer torcx bolt quite a bit, and this stops it binding. I have it wound out about 2 or 3 threads and in the work-shop at least it appears to work. I will hit the trails on it tomorrow and see if it works in the real world. A very disappointing piece of kit. My buddy has the exact same model which works perfectly.
    Mine does this as well off and on, only when extended and will pop back if tapped with finger or foot annoying because I have to stop to do so or the chain drops. LBS is scratching their head as well......

    I did get a 40t sprocket out on but we put on a new chain for the needed links...


    Sent from magic wish granting phone

  17. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation: travman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    87
    Quote Originally Posted by Iboated View Post
    Is this the issue where it locks and creates slack in the chain and the chain will pop off until the derailleur is reset? Mine started doing this yesterday, as in like the button engages and it swings there, however the button never engaged at all.. Reset it and good to go until it locks again..

    I got mine from Jenson so if this a known issue I will contact sram for a replacement..
    I had this same issue - I tried to fix it myself by disassembling, cleaning and re-lube but the problem continued. I tried different tensions on the main bolt but it made no difference. Since I was no longer able to send it in for warranty I bought another new one.

    The new one has functioned perfectly out of the box, I wont touch a thing on this new one so if the problem occurs I can send it back to SRAM.

    Not sure what causes the sticking/binding? but I could get it to stick forward in my hand after a few rotations, it acted as if the lock engaged but it never did. A slight push back on the arm it would snap back in place and work for a bit then stick again. If SRAM would deal with customers directly I wouldn't mind getting new clutch internals for the bad one to see if it would work as its supposed to.

  18. #118
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    358
    Quote Originally Posted by toyotatacomaTRD View Post
    I just started having an issue with my x9 rear derailleur. My bike has roughly 3,000 miles on it and it worked perfectly up until yesterday. Each pedal stroke, I can hear a clicking sound. I cant duplicate the sound in the stand by pedaling the bike, however, I can get it to click if I gently press on the arm of the derailleur towards the wheel. Performance hasn't suffered yet, but just wondering if I need to order a new one, or if it will last a while. Anyone else have experience with this?
    I figured I better update. . It ended up being my bottom bracket, nothing wrong with the rear derailleur.

  19. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation: in the trees's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,886
    Suffered with the random Cage Lock engagement issue on my last ride. Happened 3-4 times with a relatively new X9 Medium cage. Any resolutions to this? Frustrating!

  20. #120
    I work in .001 tolerances
    Reputation: HomegrownMN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,243

    Re: SRAM type 2 derailleur issues

    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    Suffered with the random Cage Lock engagement issue on my last ride. Happened 3-4 times with a relatively new X9 Medium cage. Any resolutions to this? Frustrating!
    contact your LBS as SRAM won't talk to customers directly.
    I had the same 'extended lock' position on my 3 week old X9 type 2 med cage.

    No questions asked, SRAM sent me a new XO as they were out of X9's last week. 75 miles on this weekend without issue.

    It's been a problem for them,but there is no 'home' solution to fix it. Warranty all the way.

  21. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    320
    3 month old bike . 2nd rear derailleur in that amount of time first was an x-7 type 2 second was an upgrade x-9 type 2 it failed yesterday. also the gxp press fit bottom bracket had a bearing failure. Sram warranty has been great however this is keeping me off of my bike.

  22. #122
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    69
    Well, my X9 Type 2 slack issues turned out the same as above where it just sticks in forward position. Seems to be on bumpy descents and it will lock mid way down. Once resulting in chain drop.

    I fiddled with it trying to adjust the tension, but it still kept happening. I did look at servicing it but it's a lot of hassle, or too expensive, and I want a quick fix, so I've just bought another one. I'll see how long that lasts. It should be a new model at least, but not sure they've done any fixes.

    Last X9 Type 2 lasted over a year I guess. Still may get round to servicing it some day. I've also got the other one on my hard tail, and that's been okay, although there's no suspension compression going on there that would affect the chain & mech.

    Other than the sticking, I do like it. I much prefer the definite shifting feel compared to Shimano.

  23. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation: thickfog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,267

    Re: SRAM type 2 derailleur issues

    Mine just suffered the dreaded lock back syndrome. Very odd. Disassembled, cleaned regreased. Ok off the bike, but who knows if it will come back.
    CRAMBA Chairman

  24. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by travman View Post
    I had this same issue - I tried to fix it myself by disassembling, cleaning and re-lube but the problem continued. I tried different tensions on the main bolt but it made no difference. Since I was no longer able to send it in for warranty I bought another new one.

    The new one has functioned perfectly out of the box, I wont touch a thing on this new one so if the problem occurs I can send it back to SRAM.

    Not sure what causes the sticking/binding? but I could get it to stick forward in my hand after a few rotations, it acted as if the lock engaged but it never did. A slight push back on the arm it would snap back in place and work for a bit then stick again. If SRAM would deal with customers directly I wouldn't mind getting new clutch internals for the bad one to see if it would work as its supposed to.
    I just got a brand new XO that did this on the very first ride. It was on a new bike so I took it back to the LBS where I bought it and after I showed them they sighed and said the clutch was "bad" and that they'd seen it in other new Sram clutch type derailleurs. They put a brand new one on.
    Cool that it was a simple warranty issue, but I'm not impressed that they did not notice it before delivering the bike to me. Won't be going back to that shop for anything other than further warranty issues on my new ride.
    I also recently broke a set screw on my Sram road bike derailleur. It has a plastic sheath that breaks quite easily. Methinks I'll be going w/ Shimano next time I need to replace a drivetrain.

  25. #125
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    5,029
    It makes me happy to know I am not having issues with my X9 NON Type 2 and 1x10.

  26. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirthead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    566
    After about 3 months on my new XX1 drive train I started hearing a noise going over rough terrain that sounded like cable housings hitting the downtube. The noise was more of a "pop" than a "creak". After a few days of trouble shooting with no luck, I found this thread and checked the rd and found that I could cause the noise by moving the derailleur by hand. Following the instructions here SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia, I disassembled the clutch mechanism and lubed with slick honey. The clutch itself had a slight hint of grease, but not most of it was dry. After lubing and re-assembly, no more "pop" and shifting was a bit smoother. The entire process was quite easy. The hardest part was getting the stupid plastic plug out of the T-55 bolt head. I ended up completely trashing the plug getting it out, but it's not really needed anyway. If I ever need to lube the clutch again, I could probably do it in under 10 minutes start to finish. It's really that easy. SRAM should probably put a little more grease in there to begin with, but I'm going to make it part of my yearly tune up.
    "Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation".

  27. #127
    humpty dumpty
    Reputation: lmsweatherman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    18
    I know this is an old thread (SRAM is on 2.1 now) but I wanted to push this out to the Web because I could not find this and figured out a simple issue regarding the sticking forward or sticking in the extended position so that when you drop to the little chain ring the chain goes slack and you get screwed. Or, weak spring response when you shift to a lower cog. Perhaps this even explains the clicking problem and gives everyone an easy port to lube the clutch through.

    I purchased an XO type 2 and then "upgraded" it with some fancy after-market jockey wheels. When I installed it on my bike I noticed it stuck forward and was sluggish. I called SRAM and they quickly told me to send it back for warranty. It was only when I was assembling the stock jockey wheels that I noticed the SRAM jockeys are 1mm thicker than my fancy after-market. I think that Shimano has thinner jockeys so the folks that make them, make them compatible for both. Anyhow, there are also 14.5mm and 15.5mm bolts out there to adjust the difference back out.

    What is happening is that the 1mm longer bolt attaching the fixed or upper jockey wheel is extending into the clutch mechanism and grinding on it. That makes it sluggish and sticky when extended, that extra resistance from the bolt pushing on the clutch inside. It pushes on an edge (according to the breakdown photos online) and if the bolt or clutch edge had a notch then it would click. Try installing just a screw and note that it sticks with greater force as you rotate suggesting that the "click" occurs at some point along the increasing force, perhaps where you gouged or dented the clutch edge when you over-tightened the bolts?

    You can put some bike lube into that same hole and it will lube up the "dry" clutch problems also and without destroying or removing the plastic cap or Torx plug.

    I'm not sure why SRAM does not just put this out there? It is likely that they have a few manufactured with long screws that rub. Perhaps their "fix" was to spec a 0.5mm shorter screw or make there jockeys a bit thicker? My fix is to use a 14.5mm bolt at the fixed end and a 15.5mm bolt at the free end. Problem solved and the XO Type 2 is performing exceptionally with the new jockeys! Love it.

    Again, I never saw anything like this on the Web and it would be great to highlight this for anyone experiencing any issues. I hope you find this. Thanks!

  28. #128
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ryandurepo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    182
    IMSWEATHERMAN, great observation, i recently (about 3 months ago) ran into this same problem when I upgraded my jockey wheels after iceman. i went to ride and had the same thing happen on the trail, i dissected it alittle on th trail and found the same bolt was protuding through and basically acting as a set screw, i backed it off and ran it a little loose to get back to the truck. i ended up just ordering some 14mm long ones from token i believe and installed them and never had a problem again.

  29. #129
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    8
    I'd be curious to know how many type 2 failures on the trail you guys are seeing. I've had three damaged deraiLluers in the field due to the cage lock feature.The housing cracks.
    JESUS LOVES MOMENTUM

  30. #130
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by lmsweatherman View Post
    I know this is an old thread (SRAM is on 2.1 now) but I wanted to push this out to the Web because I could not find this and figured out a simple issue regarding the sticking forward or sticking in the extended position so that when you drop to the little chain ring the chain goes slack and you get screwed. Or, weak spring response when you shift to a lower cog. Perhaps this even explains the clicking problem and gives everyone an easy port to lube the clutch through.

    I purchased an XO type 2 and then "upgraded" it with some fancy after-market jockey wheels. When I installed it on my bike I noticed it stuck forward and was sluggish. I called SRAM and they quickly told me to send it back for warranty. It was only when I was assembling the stock jockey wheels that I noticed the SRAM jockeys are 1mm thicker than my fancy after-market. I think that Shimano has thinner jockeys so the folks that make them, make them compatible for both. Anyhow, there are also 14.5mm and 15.5mm bolts out there to adjust the difference back out.

    What is happening is that the 1mm longer bolt attaching the fixed or upper jockey wheel is extending into the clutch mechanism and grinding on it. That makes it sluggish and sticky when extended, that extra resistance from the bolt pushing on the clutch inside. It pushes on an edge (according to the breakdown photos online) and if the bolt or clutch edge had a notch then it would click. Try installing just a screw and note that it sticks with greater force as you rotate suggesting that the "click" occurs at some point along the increasing force, perhaps where you gouged or dented the clutch edge when you over-tightened the bolts?

    You can put some bike lube into that same hole and it will lube up the "dry" clutch problems also and without destroying or removing the plastic cap or Torx plug.

    I'm not sure why SRAM does not just put this out there? It is likely that they have a few manufactured with long screws that rub. Perhaps their "fix" was to spec a 0.5mm shorter screw or make there jockeys a bit thicker? My fix is to use a 14.5mm bolt at the fixed end and a 15.5mm bolt at the free end. Problem solved and the XO Type 2 is performing exceptionally with the new jockeys! Love it.

    Again, I never saw anything like this on the Web and it would be great to highlight this for anyone experiencing any issues. I hope you find this. Thanks!
    Well done man. Amazing when the truth comes out. Makes you wonder why they didn't fess up, or if they even knew.

  31. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    511
    Does anyone know if the X0 2.1 dérailleurs have addressed the issue? I'm over trying to continually repair mine and want to get another one.

  32. #132
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2,959
    Anyone have a DIY link on how to remove the cage on a Type 2? Bicycling Australia had a pretty good DIY...but its gone now.

  33. #133
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    46
    Use googles cache. Just have to do without the images : (
    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

  34. #134
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JHwick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    151
    That article from Mountain Biking Australia magazine is up again. They've just got a new website.

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul - Mountain Biking Australia

  35. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    511
    FWIW, I'd done the full service via that document twice now and the issue just comes screaming back. Seriously, give up. I just bought a X1 (type 2.1) to replace the X01. It's quiet as and I'm over the moon to be able to ride it noise-free. It's so worth it.

  36. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2,959
    Soooo...I decided to take the derailleur apart to clean it. Initially I was just going to take off the pulleys to clean and one thing led to another...I ended up taking off the cage and regreasing the spring. I didn't remove the clutch and bearing inside the clutch housing.

    The issue is that once everything is back together...the tension on the cage seems higher than before. The shift lever seems a bit more firm too. Shifting up the cassette doesn't seem as smooth as before. Especially the small cogs. I did not touch the cable as I didn't remove the derailleur from the bike. I tried loosening the clutch by turning the 4mm bolt behind the T55 cap...but it would just self tighten back to the high tension after moving the cage back and forth.

    Am I missing something with the tension adjustment...or is the tension not adjustable and self tightens to a default tension? I think the reason SRAM used a plastic cap to cover the T55 is that they didn't want anyone to know that it was removable...LOL!

    Being bored can be a bad thing.

  37. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JHwick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    151
    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    Soooo...I decided to take the derailleur apart to clean it. Initially I was just going to take off the pulleys to clean and one thing led to another...I ended up taking off the cage and regreasing the spring. I didn't remove the clutch and bearing inside the clutch housing.

    The issue is that once everything is back together...the tension on the cage seems higher than before. The shift lever seems a bit more firm too. Shifting up the cassette doesn't seem as smooth as before. Especially the small cogs. I did not touch the cable as I didn't remove the derailleur from the bike. I tried loosening the clutch by turning the 4mm bolt behind the T55 cap...but it would just self tighten back to the high tension after moving the cage back and forth.

    Am I missing something with the tension adjustment...or is the tension not adjustable and self tightens to a default tension? I think the reason SRAM used a plastic cap to cover the T55 is that they didn't want anyone to know that it was removable...LOL!

    Being bored can be a bad thing.
    The only way to reset the clutch tension is by dissembling the clutch itself. Simply loosening the T55 cap with the clutch assembled won't do it.
    Once you've had it apart, the T55 can be tightened gradually until the tension is just right (too much tension and the shifting will get tight as you've described - then you have to start again).
    Lubing the spring alone shouldn't influence the clutch but who knows.

  38. #138
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JHwick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    151
    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    FWIW, I'd done the full service via that document twice now and the issue just comes screaming back. Seriously, give up. I just bought a X1 (type 2.1) to replace the X01. It's quiet as and I'm over the moon to be able to ride it noise-free. It's so worth it.
    I've thought about getting a Type 2.1 but have encountered a few of them where the clutch force seems too low for my liking - great for smooth shifting but crappy if you want the chain to stay put. At least the original Type 2 is adjustable (even if it's not easy to do).
    Last time I did my clutch overhaul was over 12-months ago and the knock is only just coming back. May have to pull it apart again but that's not a terrible service interval - I used Slickolium suspension grease in mine.

  39. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    511
    hmmm. well if this fouls up I'm going to Shimano XT !!


    Quote Originally Posted by JHwick View Post
    I've thought about getting a Type 2.1 but have encountered a few of them where the clutch force seems too low for my liking - great for smooth shifting but crappy if you want the chain to stay put. At least the original Type 2 is adjustable (even if it's not easy to do).
    Last time I did my clutch overhaul was over 12-months ago and the knock is only just coming back. May have to pull it apart again but that's not a terrible service interval - I used Slickolium suspension grease in mine.

  40. #140
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    511
    How confident are you that you (i) put respective jockey wheel in its correct position (ie upper and lower) and (ii) got the orientation correct?

    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    Soooo...I decided to take the derailleur apart to clean it. Initially I was just going to take off the pulleys to clean and one thing led to another...I ended up taking off the cage and regreasing the spring. I didn't remove the clutch and bearing inside the clutch housing.

    The issue is that once everything is back together...the tension on the cage seems higher than before. The shift lever seems a bit more firm too. Shifting up the cassette doesn't seem as smooth as before. Especially the small cogs. I did not touch the cable as I didn't remove the derailleur from the bike. I tried loosening the clutch by turning the 4mm bolt behind the T55 cap...but it would just self tighten back to the high tension after moving the cage back and forth.

    Am I missing something with the tension adjustment...or is the tension not adjustable and self tightens to a default tension? I think the reason SRAM used a plastic cap to cover the T55 is that they didn't want anyone to know that it was removable...LOL!

    Being bored can be a bad thing.

  41. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2,959
    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    How confident are you that you (i) put respective jockey wheel in its correct position (ie upper and lower) and (ii) got the orientation correct?
    I'm fairly confident that everything was put back in the correct order. Everything was laid out on the table in order when it was taken apart. Cleaning the pulleys...they looked the same to me...and how would they affect the clutch tension?

  42. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    511
    they have different thicknesses designed specifically for upper and lower. also, the teeth are directional. so, there's one way they will go back in correctly, and a number of ways to fk it up lol

    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    I'm fairly confident that everything was put back in the correct order. Everything was laid out on the table in order when it was taken apart. Cleaning the pulleys...they looked the same to me...and how would they affect the clutch tension?

  43. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2,959
    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    they have different thicknesses designed specifically for upper and lower. also, the teeth are directional. so, there's one way they will go back in correctly, and a number of ways to fk it up lol
    I can always double check...when I take it apart...again...haha...

  44. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    511
    think I noticed a "U" and "L" on the jockey wheels.

  45. #145
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    43
    Quote Originally Posted by Znarf View Post
    I got a new rear derailleur from SRAM and mounted that up.

    At some point this one started to creak and tick like crazy. That was not Srams fault however.
    I almost went nuts, nearly tore apart half of my bike, couln´t find anything.
    Then I noticed that the derailleur made noises when I touched the cage and then I re-read the instruction/mount-up manual and thought that I might not have greased the hanger bolt properly.

    And that was the culprit. I took the derailleur off, greased the hell out of the bolt/derailleur interface and the rotating part with the tension-screw and then greased the contact area to the hanger, loc-tited the thread and never had a single noise since then.

    Never had to grease a hanger bolt before. But now that it works, I am fine with that...
    I have had the exact same issue with my X0 Type 2 10-Speed - horrible creaking and noise caused by the hanger bolt/derailleur interface. I've had to take it apart and re-grease several times now. Happens every 3-4 months for me before I can't stand the noise and have to re-grease.

    I have had the derailleur apart and done the re-greasing (per the Aussie MTB guide), but I suspect the clutch tension is too high and leading to the creak at the hanger bolt. I've also noticed over time the T55 bolt does loosen (affecting clutch tension, requiring adjustments). On top of that I have occasional ghost shifts (briefly up or down one gear, then back) that only happen over rough terrain. Already ruled out cable/housing/hanger/b-screw/indexing for that issue.

    At this point I just want it to work reliably. Thinking of grabbing a GX Type 2.1 shorty and calling it a day.

  46. #146
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2,959
    Looks like my upper jockey wheel is pretty chewed up. Has anybody tried any of the aluminum ones? I've been reading that the upper jockey has some "float" in it. The aluminum ones looked to be universal.

    The difference between the X9 and X0 are bushings vs bearings?

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •