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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjay View Post
    I have mid cage x9 type 2 on my superlight 1x10 setup, no chainguide just chain keeper (Paul's). I found out about this thread after I purchased the x9 but still went ahead and used the RD. From day one, I have been hearing this very slight clicking noise BUT only when I pedal off the saddle on harder gear. I will have to double check if it's even the RD. I'll give an update on this. Fyi... This RD came from my hardtail and I didn't have the clicking noise on that bike.

    I recently picked up a short cage X9 type 2 for my Stumpy Evo FSR. I released the air on the rear shock and kept the chain at 32T Front/36T rear (also 1x10 setup) then compressed the shock. Absolutely no clicking noise or whatsoever. I'll have to see how it goes on the trail.
    the clunking could be the clutch mechanism or could be the silver stopper banging against the derailleur body. seems the cage doesn't have the same range of motion as the type 1 RD. the stopper on mine actually broke through the plastic derailleur body and got stuck where the lock button is located, locking the cage as I was riding. I had to lengthen the chain 2 links to prevent this from happening. I've heard of some type2's being warrantied for the clunking if it's the clutch...depends on your LBS. you may need to try a longer chain.

  2. #52
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    I now have this dreaded knock as well. I believe I have my chain set a couple links too short hopefully that will remedy the problem.

    If not then I guess it is time to look a the Shadow.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by hani1 View Post
    I now have this dreaded knock as well. I believe I have my chain set a couple links too short hopefully that will remedy the problem.

    If not then I guess it is time to look a the Shadow.
    since I put on the longer chain I haven't noticed the knock anymore. I do think it was the stopper knocking against the derailleur body. seems to be working ok now. I did order the "dangler" specialized chainguide that hangs from the chainstay. i'll give that a try. my friend has the clutch midcage RD and the dangler on his new stumpy and it works fine so i'll give that at try, although it has been ok without the chainguide so far.

  4. #54
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    I've had mine replaced from SRAM. Even with the new on and a longer chain I still get the knock when the suspension compresses. It may be time to go to the shimano clutch rear der.

    Can a SRAM 10 speed rear shifter be used with a Shimano 10 speed rear der?

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    I've had mine replaced from SRAM. Even with the new on and a longer chain I still get the knock when the suspension compresses. It may be time to go to the shimano clutch rear der.

    Can a SRAM 10 speed rear shifter be used with a Shimano 10 speed rear der?
    here's what i've read about mixing...

    "normally when one mixes SRAM and Shimano in mechs and shifters the result is the mech tearing itself apart.

    The reason is that they pull at different ratios of cable to movement. SRAM is 1:1, which means the length of cable pulled is the same as the distance the derallieur moves up/down the cassette. Shimano is 1:1.something, meaning the derallieur goes further for the same length of cable pulled, hence why the combination of Shimano and SRAM tears itself apart."

    The silver stopper on my type II already broke thru the derailleur body...so maybe that's why my knocking has stopped.

  6. #56
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    Replaced a mid-length X9 type 1 that took a trip into the spokes after 18 months solid service with a long cage type 2 after finding out about the reduced chain capacity of type 2. I hate the thing - it cost more, it weighs more, it's heavier on the thumb to shift, it's slower than the snappy mid cage to shift, and you can hear & feel the clutch break free on every suspension compression. Avoid type 2...

  7. #57
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    I am a little pissed with the knocking noise. The rest of the performance has bee fine so far. I will say I have not noticed the knocking as much while on the trail but mostly when bouncing around in the lot or in the driveway.

    It is frustrating that you read endless reviews about a product and never hear a peep about an obvious design flaw

  8. #58
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    2 rear der cables snapped in 2 months on my medium type 2. I never had this issue with the older xo model. My LBS reported to me a high number of customers having the same issue. He said SRAM is aware but are not doing anything right now. Anyone else having this problem?
    "Set the gearshift for the high gear of your soul".

  9. #59
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    I have both small and mid. Both makes knocking noise even with extended chain. It doesn't bother me though cause I only hear it when I'm on an easy gear, climbing uphill while standing. Going down, I can't hear it at all.

  10. #60
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    I have a medium that makes the knocking noise. I get this noise when on the trail. Super annoying. I got the derailleur warrantied, but we'll see if it makes the same noise. Does anyone know how to take it apart? I want to lube up the clutch so its not so "sudden" when the clutch breaks loose... kind of like the Shimano version.

    SRAM X9 type 2 issues - YouTube

  11. #61
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    Not worried about the knock

    Quote Originally Posted by Phishin Paul View Post
    2 rear der cables snapped in 2 months on my medium type 2. I never had this issue with the older xo model. My LBS reported to me a high number of customers having the same issue. He said SRAM is aware but are not doing anything right now. Anyone else having this problem?
    I can't imagine actually snapping a shift cable... How hard did you push it before it snapped? Is everything south of your shifter in proper order?

    I actually have to say I like the type 2 despite the "dreaded" knock. I use a mid cage XO with XX shifters, and it's the lightest action, most precise system I've ever used. For reference, I've also got a bike with XT shifters and an XTR shadow plus, and I still prefer the Sram. I've also used XX and XO type 1 derailleurs, and all kinds of pre-shadow plus Shimano stuff. I don't mind the knock, and the system is light and bulletproof. I'd buy it again.

  12. #62
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    I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

    Solution:

    Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!

  13. #63
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    I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

    Solution:

    Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!

  14. #64
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    I have a 4 month old x9 type 2 installed on my turner RFX that was knocking also the past few rides, esp. on hard hits that used up some travel. At first I thought it was a bottom out, but the dust on my sliders and shock shaft evinced otherwise. Bouncing on the saddle and later pulling the chain up showed that it was the darn type 2 derailleur. The thing shifted ok (if a bit clunky) but the knocking was always at the back of my head. Then I happened upon this thread and confirmed my fears. Bummer. The knock was irritating and I contemplated selling the x9 or moving it to my hardtail (which had a classic XTR 950 8 speed drivetrain that worked flawlessly).

    Anyway, Thanks to Thomaskrap, I proceeded as suggested below - lifted the plastic cover with a knife (and proceeded to scratch my torx bolt :S - be careful), unscrewed the giant torx screw, and blasted the clutch area inside with 1) WD 40, and later 2) chain lube - whilst cycling the derailleur continuously.
    The derailleur now doesnt knock and still holds the chain tension pretty well. The force needed to move the derailleur is still higher than the out-of-the-box tension on my XT shadow plus on another bike, but there is no feeling of having to "break the grip" which was the cause of the knock. Smoother.

    Derailleur saved.



    Quote Originally Posted by thomaskrap View Post
    I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

    Solution:

    Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!

  15. #65
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    gah, i think i have this issue now after a few months of riding. Going to take a look later
    2012 Ellsworth Evolution
    x9 type 2, x0 cranks,
    fox 34 talas140mm with CC angleset -1.5

  16. #66
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    Update:

    The derailleur ended up "clicking" instead of knocking after a few rides. Took things apart with no resolution. I got the derailleur warrantied and there are absolutely no problems now. No clicking, no knocking. I felt a noticeable difference in the tension of the new derailleur in comparison to the original derailleur. There was no more dragging feeling in the derailleur and what seemed like less tension in the derailleur arm... all smooth now. The shifting has improved as well.

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomaskrap View Post
    Update:

    The derailleur ended up "clicking" instead of knocking after a few rides. Took things apart with no resolution. I got the derailleur warrantied and there are absolutely no problems now. No clicking, no knocking. I felt a noticeable difference in the tension of the new derailleur in comparison to the original derailleur. There was no more dragging feeling in the derailleur and what seemed like less tension in the derailleur arm... all smooth now. The shifting has improved as well.

    thomaskrap: How did you get it warrantied? Through your bike shop or directly through Sram?

  18. #68
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    After working great for only 3 or 4 rides my T2 rear derailleur is binding up as I shift into larger gears, completely locks up!? I noticed shifting was getting super stiff, almost takes brute force just to shift up a single gear. When I first installed it it would not shift at all, I had to take it back off the bike and force the arm to move by hand and that too took a lot of force. It gave off a cracking sound like it was put together with locktight? Not happy...I spent over $600 dollars converting to a 10 speed setup and now I can't even ride....
    "too weird to live, too rare to die"

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Replaced a mid-length X9 type 1 that took a trip into the spokes after 18 months solid service with a long cage type 2 after finding out about the reduced chain capacity of type 2. I hate the thing - it cost more, it weighs more, it's heavier on the thumb to shift, it's slower than the snappy mid cage to shift, and you can hear & feel the clutch break free on every suspension compression. Avoid type 2...
    why did you change from medium to long cage?

    I went from long cage X9 to Medium X9 T2 on a 3x setup but about to change to 1x. I also changed from X7 shifter to X0.
    since swapping over I have never noticed any of this knocking, not sure what i should be listening for.... has anyone made a recording of the phenomenon?

  20. #70
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    A follow-up on post #38. The X9 Type II was replaced under warranty. Despite being beat up in the mail, the replacement derailleur shifts fine, and the chain no longer rides up pulley teeth nor derails from the lower pulley. What I notice different about the two derailleurs, the original plates were tight to begin with, and became sloppy later, plus the cage was straight in-line on the high gear. The replacement has remained tight, and the cage is angled outward (appears bent, shipping damage perhaps) in high gear. In fact the cage will contact the derailleur body if allowed to completely retract without cable tension. Clutch resistance feels a bit more linear on the replacement than the original also.

  21. #71
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    I just unboxed my new XO type 2 rear der. from Chain Reaction and i notice that when swinging the cage by hand it pivots with a smooth motion. When i first checked out these der at my LBS i did the same thing and remember the cage pivoting with a dull clicking in the tension, almost like a ratchet. So which one is correct, is it supposed to be a smooth pivot or is supposed to click

  22. #72
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    Not supposed to click. The "clutch" is designed to apply a smooth resistance to the cage's forward motion only. Any kind of ratcheting would definitely be cause for concern. The "click" or "knock" users describe is likely the sound made when initially overcoming the static friction of the clutch mechanism while it's at rest. It's a one-time sound (per forward motion of the cage).

  23. #73
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    Thanx Max, the one i have is then correct.

  24. #74
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    Good job! Sorted

    :thumbsup:Just a quick note I work in a bike shop in New Zealand the clutch rear mec dose have a small problem with the clutch being to dry from factory and all the latest stock coming out now seems to be fine and we are about to service some even though sram says you can't we have been told how and we try on some of our test bikes so we have got it sorted before we try a customers hope this helps

  25. #75
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    Cycle man...What is it that you've done to service it?

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