• 03-07-2013
    ocguy2004
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Tjay View Post
    I have mid cage x9 type 2 on my superlight 1x10 setup, no chainguide just chain keeper (Paul's). I found out about this thread after I purchased the x9 but still went ahead and used the RD. From day one, I have been hearing this very slight clicking noise BUT only when I pedal off the saddle on harder gear. I will have to double check if it's even the RD. I'll give an update on this. Fyi... This RD came from my hardtail and I didn't have the clicking noise on that bike.

    I recently picked up a short cage X9 type 2 for my Stumpy Evo FSR. I released the air on the rear shock and kept the chain at 32T Front/36T rear (also 1x10 setup) then compressed the shock. Absolutely no clicking noise or whatsoever. I'll have to see how it goes on the trail.

    the clunking could be the clutch mechanism or could be the silver stopper banging against the derailleur body. seems the cage doesn't have the same range of motion as the type 1 RD. the stopper on mine actually broke through the plastic derailleur body and got stuck where the lock button is located, locking the cage as I was riding. I had to lengthen the chain 2 links to prevent this from happening. I've heard of some type2's being warrantied for the clunking if it's the clutch...depends on your LBS. you may need to try a longer chain.
  • 03-13-2013
    hani1
    I now have this dreaded knock as well. I believe I have my chain set a couple links too short hopefully that will remedy the problem.

    If not then I guess it is time to look a the Shadow.
  • 03-13-2013
    ocguy2004
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hani1 View Post
    I now have this dreaded knock as well. I believe I have my chain set a couple links too short hopefully that will remedy the problem.

    If not then I guess it is time to look a the Shadow.

    since I put on the longer chain I haven't noticed the knock anymore. I do think it was the stopper knocking against the derailleur body. seems to be working ok now. I did order the "dangler" specialized chainguide that hangs from the chainstay. i'll give that a try. my friend has the clutch midcage RD and the dangler on his new stumpy and it works fine so i'll give that at try, although it has been ok without the chainguide so far.
  • 03-13-2013
    trailbrain
    I've had mine replaced from SRAM. Even with the new on and a longer chain I still get the knock when the suspension compresses. It may be time to go to the shimano clutch rear der.

    Can a SRAM 10 speed rear shifter be used with a Shimano 10 speed rear der?
  • 03-13-2013
    ocguy2004
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    I've had mine replaced from SRAM. Even with the new on and a longer chain I still get the knock when the suspension compresses. It may be time to go to the shimano clutch rear der.

    Can a SRAM 10 speed rear shifter be used with a Shimano 10 speed rear der?

    here's what i've read about mixing...

    "normally when one mixes SRAM and Shimano in mechs and shifters the result is the mech tearing itself apart.

    The reason is that they pull at different ratios of cable to movement. SRAM is 1:1, which means the length of cable pulled is the same as the distance the derallieur moves up/down the cassette. Shimano is 1:1.something, meaning the derallieur goes further for the same length of cable pulled, hence why the combination of Shimano and SRAM tears itself apart."

    The silver stopper on my type II already broke thru the derailleur body...so maybe that's why my knocking has stopped.
  • 03-16-2013
    Haggis
    Replaced a mid-length X9 type 1 that took a trip into the spokes after 18 months solid service with a long cage type 2 after finding out about the reduced chain capacity of type 2. I hate the thing - it cost more, it weighs more, it's heavier on the thumb to shift, it's slower than the snappy mid cage to shift, and you can hear & feel the clutch break free on every suspension compression. Avoid type 2...
  • 03-16-2013
    hani1
    I am a little pissed with the knocking noise. The rest of the performance has bee fine so far. I will say I have not noticed the knocking as much while on the trail but mostly when bouncing around in the lot or in the driveway.

    It is frustrating that you read endless reviews about a product and never hear a peep about an obvious design flaw
  • 03-17-2013
    Phishin Paul
    2 rear der cables snapped in 2 months on my medium type 2. I never had this issue with the older xo model. My LBS reported to me a high number of customers having the same issue. He said SRAM is aware but are not doing anything right now. Anyone else having this problem?
  • 03-30-2013
    Tjay
    I have both small and mid. Both makes knocking noise even with extended chain. It doesn't bother me though cause I only hear it when I'm on an easy gear, climbing uphill while standing. Going down, I can't hear it at all.
  • 04-10-2013
    thomaskrap
    I have a medium that makes the knocking noise. I get this noise when on the trail. Super annoying. I got the derailleur warrantied, but we'll see if it makes the same noise. Does anyone know how to take it apart? I want to lube up the clutch so its not so "sudden" when the clutch breaks loose... kind of like the Shimano version.

    SRAM X9 type 2 issues - YouTube
  • 04-10-2013
    max_lombardy
    Not worried about the knock
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Phishin Paul View Post
    2 rear der cables snapped in 2 months on my medium type 2. I never had this issue with the older xo model. My LBS reported to me a high number of customers having the same issue. He said SRAM is aware but are not doing anything right now. Anyone else having this problem?

    I can't imagine actually snapping a shift cable... How hard did you push it before it snapped? Is everything south of your shifter in proper order?

    I actually have to say I like the type 2 despite the "dreaded" knock. I use a mid cage XO with XX shifters, and it's the lightest action, most precise system I've ever used. For reference, I've also got a bike with XT shifters and an XTR shadow plus, and I still prefer the Sram. I've also used XX and XO type 1 derailleurs, and all kinds of pre-shadow plus Shimano stuff. I don't mind the knock, and the system is light and bulletproof. I'd buy it again.
  • 04-10-2013
    thomaskrap
    I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

    Solution:

    Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!
  • 04-11-2013
    thomaskrap
    I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

    Solution:

    Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!
  • 04-19-2013
    cobym2
    I have a 4 month old x9 type 2 installed on my turner RFX that was knocking also the past few rides, esp. on hard hits that used up some travel. At first I thought it was a bottom out, but the dust on my sliders and shock shaft evinced otherwise. Bouncing on the saddle and later pulling the chain up showed that it was the darn type 2 derailleur. The thing shifted ok (if a bit clunky) but the knocking was always at the back of my head. Then I happened upon this thread and confirmed my fears. Bummer. The knock was irritating and I contemplated selling the x9 or moving it to my hardtail (which had a classic XTR 950 8 speed drivetrain that worked flawlessly).

    Anyway, Thanks to Thomaskrap, I proceeded as suggested below - lifted the plastic cover with a knife (and proceeded to scratch my torx bolt :S - be careful), unscrewed the giant torx screw, and blasted the clutch area inside with 1) WD 40, and later 2) chain lube - whilst cycling the derailleur continuously.
    The derailleur now doesnt knock and still holds the chain tension pretty well. The force needed to move the derailleur is still higher than the out-of-the-box tension on my XT shadow plus on another bike, but there is no feeling of having to "break the grip" which was the cause of the knock. Smoother.

    Derailleur saved.



    Quote:

    Originally Posted by thomaskrap View Post
    I fixed the knocking and shifting issues. I probably voided my warranty but now it works flawlessly.

    Solution:

    Lift plastic bit covering the clutch internals. I used a razor blade around the edges and finished it with a flathead screw driver. I wasn't able to put it back on, but that's okay, it's purely cosmetic anyway. Unscrew the Torx screw and remove completely. Loosen the internal allen nut found holding the arm/clutch together. Put a few drops of Triflow between derailleur cage plate and derailleur body. You should instantly feel a difference. I put a drop of triflow inside the clutch as well. Tighten internal allen until things feel right in terms of the friction. I kept moving the derailleur arm back and forth until things felt good. The Torx screw should also add additional tension to the clutch. Use loctite and tighten the Torx down until the tension feels good. I tensioned mine a little bit under the "breaking point". Now my derailleur has no knock, the clutch has smooth action while staying tight and it also shifts a million times better. Hope that helps!

  • 04-24-2013
    BloodyRoots
    gah, i think i have this issue now after a few months of riding. Going to take a look later
  • 04-24-2013
    thomaskrap
    Update:

    The derailleur ended up "clicking" instead of knocking after a few rides. Took things apart with no resolution. I got the derailleur warrantied and there are absolutely no problems now. No clicking, no knocking. I felt a noticeable difference in the tension of the new derailleur in comparison to the original derailleur. There was no more dragging feeling in the derailleur and what seemed like less tension in the derailleur arm... all smooth now. The shifting has improved as well.
  • 05-02-2013
    jon123
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by thomaskrap View Post
    Update:

    The derailleur ended up "clicking" instead of knocking after a few rides. Took things apart with no resolution. I got the derailleur warrantied and there are absolutely no problems now. No clicking, no knocking. I felt a noticeable difference in the tension of the new derailleur in comparison to the original derailleur. There was no more dragging feeling in the derailleur and what seemed like less tension in the derailleur arm... all smooth now. The shifting has improved as well.


    thomaskrap: How did you get it warrantied? Through your bike shop or directly through Sram?
  • 05-02-2013
    slapmackie
    After working great for only 3 or 4 rides my T2 rear derailleur is binding up as I shift into larger gears, completely locks up!? I noticed shifting was getting super stiff, almost takes brute force just to shift up a single gear. When I first installed it it would not shift at all, I had to take it back off the bike and force the arm to move by hand and that too took a lot of force. It gave off a cracking sound like it was put together with locktight? Not happy...I spent over $600 dollars converting to a 10 speed setup and now I can't even ride....
  • 05-04-2013
    foxpuppet
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Replaced a mid-length X9 type 1 that took a trip into the spokes after 18 months solid service with a long cage type 2 after finding out about the reduced chain capacity of type 2. I hate the thing - it cost more, it weighs more, it's heavier on the thumb to shift, it's slower than the snappy mid cage to shift, and you can hear & feel the clutch break free on every suspension compression. Avoid type 2...

    why did you change from medium to long cage?

    I went from long cage X9 to Medium X9 T2 on a 3x setup but about to change to 1x. I also changed from X7 shifter to X0.
    since swapping over I have never noticed any of this knocking, not sure what i should be listening for.... has anyone made a recording of the phenomenon?
  • 05-24-2013
    HillDancer
    A follow-up on post #38. The X9 Type II was replaced under warranty. Despite being beat up in the mail, the replacement derailleur shifts fine, and the chain no longer rides up pulley teeth nor derails from the lower pulley. What I notice different about the two derailleurs, the original plates were tight to begin with, and became sloppy later, plus the cage was straight in-line on the high gear. The replacement has remained tight, and the cage is angled outward (appears bent, shipping damage perhaps) in high gear. In fact the cage will contact the derailleur body if allowed to completely retract without cable tension. Clutch resistance feels a bit more linear on the replacement than the original also.
  • 06-07-2013
    madmarc
    I just unboxed my new XO type 2 rear der. from Chain Reaction and i notice that when swinging the cage by hand it pivots with a smooth motion. When i first checked out these der at my LBS i did the same thing and remember the cage pivoting with a dull clicking in the tension, almost like a ratchet. So which one is correct, is it supposed to be a smooth pivot or is supposed to click
  • 06-07-2013
    max_lombardy
    Not supposed to click. The "clutch" is designed to apply a smooth resistance to the cage's forward motion only. Any kind of ratcheting would definitely be cause for concern. The "click" or "knock" users describe is likely the sound made when initially overcoming the static friction of the clutch mechanism while it's at rest. It's a one-time sound (per forward motion of the cage).
  • 06-08-2013
    madmarc
    Thanx Max, the one i have is then correct.
  • 06-09-2013
    Cycle man
    Sorted
    :thumbsup:Just a quick note I work in a bike shop in New Zealand the clutch rear mec dose have a small problem with the clutch being to dry from factory and all the latest stock coming out now seems to be fine and we are about to service some even though sram says you can't we have been told how and we try on some of our test bikes so we have got it sorted before we try a customers hope this helps
  • 06-09-2013
    jon123
    Cycle man...What is it that you've done to service it?
  • 06-09-2013
    Cycle man
    Grease
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    Cycle man...What is it that you've done to service it?

    Once we have it apart we will use teflon grease in and around the roller bearing
  • 06-09-2013
    trhoppe
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Cycle man View Post
    Once we have it apart we will use teflon grease in and around the roller bearing

    This post is worthless without pics :)

    Can you at least snap a couple or give a more thorough description? How far do you take them apart? I've got 3 of these suckers.
  • 06-09-2013
    Cycle man
    Sorry mate you are right haven't got any picks yet will get back to you and your lbs should do this for you for free or sram
  • 06-12-2013
    Bmann_mtb
    I am glad I found this post! I am having the same issues on my bike and i have a XO medium cage 2013 rear derailer type 2 that is knocking like crazy in the low gears and the higer gears but the middle of the cog is a little better.

    I converted my 2012 camber carbon expert to a 1x10, 36 wolftooth front sprocket and 11x36 rear all new 2013 parts and after about the 3rd ride all the noise started.

    The bike shop is getting a smaller cup spacer for my crank (I left it stock) so i will have a better chain line to see if this helps any. My lbs has checked everything from chain length to derailer hanger etc and all is right on the money. I am still riding it but more of an annoyance for new parts to have this issue.
  • 06-15-2013
    Bmann_mtb
    2 Attachment(s)
    For what it is worth do not take it apart it made mine worse. So what i really mean is that i destoried mine and snapped off the bolt that holds the backside of the clutch.

    Now that was not the end i also stripped out my 5mm hanger bolt. So going back to the x9 type 1 no more clutch. So in conclusion it was totally my fault for messing with it further and after three trips to different bike shops and three different chains still no resolution.
  • 06-18-2013
    fivenines
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    For what it is worth do not take it apart it made mine worse. So what i really mean is that i destoried mine and snapped off the bolt that holds the backside of the clutch.

    Now that was not the end i also stripped out my 5mm hanger bolt. So going back to the x9 type 1 no more clutch. So in conclusion it was totally my fault for messing with it further and after three trips to different bike shops and three different chains still no resolution.

    How did you remove the front cap (the one with Type 2 written on it) and the little plastic cap in the center of it. Are the reusable?
  • 06-18-2013
    Bmann_mtb
    2 Attachment(s)
    Yes they are reusable. It is just a plastic cap over top of the torx 50 star that u have to remove (simple utility knife is fine)to take it all apart but I would advise not to take it apart.

    In retrospect i should have maybe tried adjusting the B tension screw to see if this made any difference since this worked for another poster. What i noticed is that the knocking was worse moving up into the higher gears which was putting more tension on cassette and chain.
  • 06-18-2013
    neilether
    I took mine apart and successfully got it back together. No more knocking. Wee!
  • 06-20-2013
    fivenines
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    Yes they are reusable. It is just a plastic cap over top of the torx 50 star that u have to remove (simple utility knife is fine)to take it all apart but I would advise not to take it apart.

    In retrospect i should have maybe tried adjusting the B tension screw to see if this made any difference since this worked for another poster. What i noticed is that the knocking was worse moving up into the higher gears which was putting more tension on cassette and chain.

    Thanks for the advice, I managed to open it with no damage. Do you remove the bearing? Eventually how? If there's no need the bearing, do you lubricate through the crack of that sort of c-ring in front of the bearing?
  • 06-20-2013
    Bmann_mtb
    I never removed the bearing and dont think it was the issue just the clutch was the issue.
  • 06-20-2013
    fivenines
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    I never removed the bearing and dont think it was the issue just the clutch was the issue.

    but which is the clutch? Once you remove the torx screw, where do you go from there?
  • 06-20-2013
    Bmann_mtb
    I was referring to the spring in back under tension. Maybe someone else can answer better than me since i destroied mine.. 
  • 06-21-2013
    fivenines
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Bmann_mtb View Post
    I was referring to the spring in back under tension. Maybe someone else can answer better than me since i destroied mine.. 

    oh, in that case...
    However, thank you for your help.
  • 11-06-2013
    Blade-Runner
    Isn't SRAM working on a video on how to fix this issue?
  • 11-06-2013
    JHwick
    Here's a link to an article on servicing the Type 2 clutch that may help some people out. Even if you're not keen to disassemble it yourself, it'll give you a good idea of what's inside and you could always ask a store to do it if your sick of the 'knocking'.
    I did this to my XX1 derailleur almost a year ago and haven't heard anything from it since - Slick Honey or Slickolium seems to do a really good job. Just make sure you only 'lightly' tighten the big T55 torx cap when reassembling and you'll be set.

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia
  • 11-07-2013
    Blade-Runner
    Thanks for the info!
  • 11-07-2013
    jon123
    I was able to fix the problem (and the knocking on mine was fairly bad) with just removing the main cap and greasing the roller clutch. No other steps required. Takes all of a couple minutes.
    Just a note, initially I used oil as shown in the diagram but the problem came back fairly quick.
    I then switched to the Park Tools thick grease, putting quite a bit in there. Problem-free after several months now.
  • 11-07-2013
    trhoppe
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    I was able to fix the problem (and the knocking on mine was fairly bad) with just removing the main cap and greasing the roller clutch. No other steps required. Takes all of a couple minutes.
    Just a note, initially I used oil as shown in the diagram but the problem came back fairly quick.
    I then switched to the Park Tools thick grease, putting quite a bit in there. Problem-free after several months now.

    So when you did that, did you just essentially pack some grease in there after removing the T55 bolt? Did you undo the cage and the 3mm allen and do the other items described in that writeup?
  • 11-10-2013
    jon123
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by trhoppe View Post
    So when you did that, did you just essentially pack some grease in there after removing the T55 bolt? Did you undo the cage and the 3mm allen and do the other items described in that writeup?


    Essentially, yes. I loosened the roller clutch nut slightly to let the grease work its way in. That's all. None of the other steps.
    When you tighten the main cap just be careful not to over tighten it or that will make shifting hard. I leave it so there's a thread or two still visible.
  • 11-26-2013
    deadkenny
    I think I was getting the knocking sound on my full sus on the short cage I had back in this post. However I'd decided to get one for the hard tail also so moved the short cage to the hard tail and got another type 2 for the full sus but this time a medium cage.

    Reason being that the short seemed to have a stretching creaking sound when shifting to the lower gears and wondered if short cage was stressing it too much and might be causing the knocking also.

    Anyway, knocking gone on the hard tail as there's no rear suspension. Creaking is still there but not much of a bother. I do wonder if it's going to make it fail though.

    Next issue though is the medium cage I got for the full sus was working great for many months, keeping tension and chain slap minimal to none. Recently though chain slap all over the place and it's very easy to pull the cage forward by hand unlike the short cage on the other bike which is very hard to pull forward.

    Has the clutch "gone" in some way, and what can I do about it? Just seems like it's no longer a clutch mech now. Chain is not that worn and just to double check I removed a link but the chain was definitely too short then. If I had it serviced the same way to sort out the knocking as others are getting, would it sort this problem out also I wonder. Looks like I could do with both mechs servicing really.

    Short of doing it myself, is it worth getting it done by LBS (who would probably send it off I assume), given the repair price vs the price of a new mech (x9)? And anyone had them repaired in the UK and who by?

    p.s. Narrow-wide chainrings... awesome! No more guides and devices. I run these (Works Components) on both bikes and not a chain drop once or hint of one :thumbsup:
  • 01-17-2014
    Znarf
    I'd love to know this also.
    My XXO1 rear derailleur seems also to have lost its damping capabilities.
    Worked fine for a couple of months, no chain slap but now the chain is as loud as with a classic RD.
    I warrantied it and SRAM says there'd be no issue at all,
    I am pretty curious if it'll work again as advertised once I get it back...

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by deadkenny View Post
    I think I was getting the knocking sound on my full sus on the short cage I had back in this post. However I'd decided to get one for the hard tail also so moved the short cage to the hard tail and got another type 2 for the full sus but this time a medium cage.

    Reason being that the short seemed to have a stretching creaking sound when shifting to the lower gears and wondered if short cage was stressing it too much and might be causing the knocking also.

    Anyway, knocking gone on the hard tail as there's no rear suspension. Creaking is still there but not much of a bother. I do wonder if it's going to make it fail though.

    Next issue though is the medium cage I got for the full sus was working great for many months, keeping tension and chain slap minimal to none. Recently though chain slap all over the place and it's very easy to pull the cage forward by hand unlike the short cage on the other bike which is very hard to pull forward.

    Has the clutch "gone" in some way, and what can I do about it? Just seems like it's no longer a clutch mech now. Chain is not that worn and just to double check I removed a link but the chain was definitely too short then. If I had it serviced the same way to sort out the knocking as others are getting, would it sort this problem out also I wonder. Looks like I could do with both mechs servicing really.

    Short of doing it myself, is it worth getting it done by LBS (who would probably send it off I assume), given the repair price vs the price of a new mech (x9)? And anyone had them repaired in the UK and who by?

    p.s. Narrow-wide chainrings... awesome! No more guides and devices. I run these (Works Components) on both bikes and not a chain drop once or hint of one :thumbsup:

  • 01-29-2014
    Dry Cownty Brewer
    I just tried to service mine last night. Using the box cutter razor blade to extract the plastic cap, I managed to only chip out the cap piece by piece. I did get the T50 opened up and greased. Hopefully this helps, because I really scratched the derailleur up the the process.

    I was experiencing the very noticeable "knocking". However, the even bigger problem I was trying to correct by tightening the clutch was to try and prevent chain drop from my 36T ring to the 24T ring.
  • 01-29-2014
    max_lombardy
    Not sure how tightening the rear derailleur clutch would halp chain drop up front... You might check chain and chainrings for wear and make sure your front mech is properly aligned. Also, as many people have stated, the knock is nothing to worry about.
  • 01-29-2014
    Dry Cownty Brewer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    Not sure how tightening the rear derailleur clutch would halp chain drop up front... You might check chain and chainrings for wear and make sure your front mech is properly aligned. Also, as many people have stated, the knock is nothing to worry about.

    I'm just covering all bases. The chain ring is new <120 miles. I have a new chain on the way, and just checked FD alignment again. The reason why I was convinced to buy a Type 2 in the first place was the same chain drop issue when the terrain gets rough. It went away for quite a few months since installing the type 2 new, but now it is as bad as when it started. Ergo - adjust the clutch to take up any slack that might have developed over time.
  • 01-29-2014
    Ryandurepo
    i had chain drop issues on my 2x10 setup up front too through rough braking bumps. had new chain on there and my chainrings werent terrible and my fd was adjusted good. I put an x0 type 2 on and i never had it happen again, since then ive ditched dual chainrings and went xx1 up front and love it.