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  1. #1
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    SRAM GXP Crank Removal

    I'm probably over looking something simple, however, I thought I would post here before I broke something.

    How do I remove the crank on a SRAM GXP? I took the large nut out (10mm hex), what's next? Youtube videos make it look like it should either fall off after that or you need the removal tool. Am i just missing something simple or do I need the tool?

    Picture attached.

    CodySRAM GXP Crank Removal-img_20130611_204338.jpg

  2. #2
    Trail Tire TV on blogger
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    ya.. you leave the large nut in... LOL

    there is a nut that is more of a thick, threaded washer that is cupped on the inside, that goes over the actual mounting bolt. as the mounting bolt is backed out it pushes on the outer nut/washer thingy and pushes the crank arm off. neither one ever actually gets taken off the crank arm...(thou I take them off to clean now and then)
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  3. #3
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    Yeah, you're looking at the wrong side.

    Go in from the drive side (side with the chainrings) and use an 8mm hex wrench counter clockwise. Once you get the crank out make sure you don't lose the little dust cover that fits onto the bottom bracket because it will likely fall off as you're removing the crank.

  4. #4
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    Here is a pic of the otherside, you can see all the way through.


    SRAM GXP Crank Removal-img_20130612_063555.jpg


    Quote Originally Posted by dragonsnack View Post
    Yeah, you're looking at the wrong side.

    Go in from the drive side (side with the chainrings) and use an 8mm hex wrench counter clockwise. Once you get the crank out make sure you don't lose the little dust cover that fits onto the bottom bracket because it will likely fall off as you're removing the crank.

  5. #5
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    That's what is known as a 'self-extracting' crankarm bolt. You removed the extractor.

    Put the whole shabang back together, and thread the 10mm nut/washer on until it is completely engaged with the crank arm's threads. It should not be binding the bolt, which should be able to turn freely. Use an 8mm hex key through the nut/washer and turn the bolt inside counter clockwise. It will push against the nut, pushing the arm off of the spindle.

  6. #6
    Bicyclochondriac.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragonsnack View Post
    Yeah, you're looking at the wrong side.

    Go in from the drive side (side with the chainrings) and use an 8mm hex wrench counter clockwise. Once you get the crank out make sure you don't lose the little dust cover that fits onto the bottom bracket because it will likely fall off as you're removing the crank.
    No, he's looking at the correct side.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

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