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  1. #51
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    Actually, I found the compression washer. It looks different than the other ones. So I think I'm all good.

    Refer to the following photos:

    1) BB NDS w washer installed. It was already "pressed" in.
    2) BB w washer removed
    3) Compression washer
    4) Drive Side spacing between crank arm and BB, 2.5mm. This actually makes sense...I had a Shimano BB in there and it came installed w/ a 2.5mm washer. It's just strange that the GXP crank "floats" on the DS, but I understand now how it's secured on the NDS.

    Ah...This floating gap allows the use of a chain guide w/o affecting chain line. Genius!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sram gxp 73mm bottom bracket h question...-img_3663.jpg  

    Sram gxp 73mm bottom bracket h question...-img_3662.jpg  

    Sram gxp 73mm bottom bracket h question...-img_3661.jpg  

    Sram gxp 73mm bottom bracket h question...-img_3664.jpg  

    Last edited by nsxtc; 07-14-2013 at 07:17 AM.

  2. #52
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    if a threaded sram GXP needs chainline adjustment towards the right (away from the bb), how is this accomplished?

    i understand that putting spacers on the NDS bb shell adjust the chainline inboard (towards the bb)

  3. #53
    Trail Tire TV on blogger
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    if a threaded sram GXP needs chainline adjustment towards the right (away from the bb), how is this accomplished?

    i understand that putting spacers on the NDS bb shell adjust the chainline inboard (towards the bb)
    don't put a spacer behind the bb cup... if that's not enough there there is likely an issue with you frame
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  4. #54
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    Sram gxp 73mm bottom bracket h question...

    Quote Originally Posted by thomllama View Post
    don't put a spacer behind the bb cup... if that's not enough there there is likely an issue with you frame
    If putting a spacer in a 73mm threaded gxp is not possible, then i also cannot put a bb bash guard? Frame doesn't have iscg.

    What's the resulting chainline for a NW 1x spideless x9 and x7?
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  5. #55
    Trail Tire TV on blogger
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    yes,.. there is room on the drive side... the Non drive side does all your adjustments and holding of the crankset...

    newer (2010 and later I believe) GXP BB cups are set slightly smaller on the drive side to comp for the room needed for BB mounted accessories

    there always needs to be a slight space between the Drive side cup/bearing and the spider.. (thou the now have a way washer there to lightly push and keep the seal from moving out.)
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  6. #56
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    2 spacers on NDS

    Does any know if placing 2 spacers on the NDS with a 68 mm bb would work. I'm using an mtb sram x7 crank with a cyclocross frame (130 mm rear dropout), and this is the only way to get an acceptable chain line. Placing one spacer on each side pushes the chain line out too far. Would there be enough thread engagement with the NDS cup with 2 spacers?

    THanks

  7. #57
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    spyghost: chainline outboard (to the right) is accomplished by removing the spacer from between the BB shell and left cup. If there are none, the chainline is already as big as it can be. (Save for facing the BB shell to remove material.)

    tan115: It does work, as long as your crank and spider on the drive side doesn't hit the chainstay, and you still have the gap between the drive side cup and crank. The cranks will be shifted a bit to the left, but it's nothing you would notice while riding. There's plenty of threads still engaged, so I wouldn't worry about it.

  8. #58
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    Agree, I have lots of different sizes of spacers and worked a bit to get as much correction to the chainline but also leaving a hair of a gap between the driveside cup and crank. Not as much as I would have wanted to move the chainline considering I am in the lower gears a ton, but that trick has made it much better.

    Quote Originally Posted by Saul Lumikko View Post
    spyghost: chainline outboard (to the right) is accomplished by removing the spacer from between the BB shell and left cup. If there are none, the chainline is already as big as it can be. (Save for facing the BB shell to remove material.)

    tan115: It does work, as long as your crank and spider on the drive side doesn't hit the chainstay, and you still have the gap between the drive side cup and crank. The cranks will be shifted a bit to the left, but it's nothing you would notice while riding. There's plenty of threads still engaged, so I wouldn't worry about it.

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