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  1. #101
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    Works great for me too. It will occasionally jump as others have noted and I tend to feel for the correct engagement before I hammer it. Overall it's the best drivetrain I've ridden in the last 30 years.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti rider View Post
    Iím going is disagree.
    Put it in the bike stand, single shifts, multiple shifts throughout the whole range and it syncs on every change.
    Iím surprised. But looking at your pictures if you really did move the chain by 1 single tooth and thereís no gap then is it possible SRAM changed the tooth profile ?

    Do you have a yeti ? Hereís a picture of the yeti used when pinkbike tested Eagle (with the chain un-synched) :


  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti rider View Post
    Iím going is disagree.
    Put it in the bike stand, single shifts, multiple shifts throughout the whole range and it syncs on every change.
    It only happens in the two lowest gears - all the higher gears have normal tooth profiles and donít need to be synchronized. Itís most easily reproduced with a rapid shift from 3rd (36t) to 1st (50t). When you shift slowly the ramps on the cassette properly synchronize the chain. But a rapid shift puts enough pressure and friction on the chain that it shifts before getting lifted by the ramps - and gets unsynchronized.

  4. #104
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    ^^^Exactly.

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  5. #105
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    No i have a 2018 Whyte T130

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti rider View Post
    No i have a 2018 Whyte T130
    GX cassette?

  7. #107
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    yep SRAM PG-1275 Eagle, 10-50, 12 Speed
    Full GX setup https://www.whyte.bike/t130s

    I've just done a 15 mile ride where i climbed nearly 2000 feet with zero issues, some smooth, some bumpy, some extreme down hill, nothing but a flawless shifting performance.
    Sure i heard it drop from the biggest to next cog but its a big drop.

    On the first climbs i performed a multiple shift up, yanked on the brakes got off , checked the chain alignment and every time it was on all the teeth, i checked the tightness of the top length of chain and it was always as expected. If the chain was jumping forward a tooth i would expect some slackness as it not also going to jump on the crankset.

    Real world i'm not seeing anything that suggests I have an issue. Sorry but thats my feedback.

    So is this?
    Non real world testing?
    Badly set up installation?
    Poor bike design?
    Poor frame build and alignment?

    Has this actually been raised directly with SRAM support and what was the feedback?
    I can't believe after thousands of hours of testing and multiple manufactures using the system that such an easily replicated design flaw as you suggest has not been identified and called out.

    I've read and watched bike review while choosing the Whyte and no one called this out?

  8. #108
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    Thread closed. It's all in our heads.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  9. #109
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    Thatís the frustrating question Iím trying to answer, and one that SRAM is skirting around. One SRAM tech says oh yeah it can happen, while another is warrantying the entire drivetrain, and yet another alluded to a future redesign of the cassette. Apparently there was a video about it, but now no one can find it. Every bike shop that has Eagle has noticed it but most donít know why it happens. And many bike shops donít even have the plastic SRAM tool to properly align the b-tension. Out of 15 or so eagle bikes Iíve now tested I havenít seen one NOT do it.

    When it happens on the trail the chain slides/snaps forward into place with a clang you surely must have experienced (again only shifting from 3 to 2/1 - the rest of the range is perfect). Briantortilla says it is by design, which is plausible, but it would be nice for SRAM to officially confirm this so that we can stop trying to fix a non-existent problem.

    Are you 100% certain that the chain meshes correctly on the two largest sprockets in all positions ? Unless SRAM recently redesigned the tooth profile itís impossible for the chain to mesh on alternate teeth.

    Quote Originally Posted by yeti rider View Post
    yep SRAM PG-1275 Eagle, 10-50, 12 Speed
    Full GX setup https://www.whyte.bike/t130s

    I've just done a 15 mile ride where i climbed nearly 2000 feet with zero issues, some smooth, some bumpy, some extreme down hill, nothing but a flawless shifting performance.
    Sure i heard it drop from the biggest to next cog but its a big drop.

    On the first climbs i performed a multiple shift up, yanked on the brakes got off , checked the chain alignment and every time it was on all the teeth, i checked the tightness of the top length of chain and it was always as expected. If the chain was jumping forward a tooth i would expect some slackness as it not also going to jump on the crankset.

    Real world i'm not seeing anything that suggests I have an issue. Sorry but thats my feedback.

    So is this?
    Non real world testing?
    Badly set up installation?
    Poor bike design?
    Poor frame build and alignment?

    Has this actually been raised directly with SRAM support and what was the feedback?
    I can't believe after thousands of hours of testing and multiple manufactures using the system that such an easily replicated design flaw as you suggest has not been identified and called out.

    I've read and watched bike review while choosing the Whyte and no one called this out?

  10. #110
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    Iíve done about 100 miles on the Whyte and Iíve not had any issues at all, maybe Iím just lucky but itís working perfectly for me.

    Maybe after itís got a few more hill miles on it and lots of my riding is up hill.

    Iíve also started leaving the bike in the smallest cog which I saw on the SRAM site as it indicated it puts less strain on the cable and mech.

    Iíll advise if anything changes.

  11. #111
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    Got Eagle on 2 bikes and have 4 cassettes on different wheels. I can make them both go out of sync on the stand but on the trail I cannot make it happen.

  12. #112
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    Update. Mech at the LBS that I bought my bike from called and talked to Sram. Like others are saying, they acknowledge that this happens from time to time in the stand/not under power but shouldn't happen on the trail. The clunk I get from time to time is just the chain finding it's place on the narrow/wide profile of the 42 and the 50. They want to hear if it causes issues etc. as this is a somewhat new system. No conspiracy's. I am happy with my setup and can handle a noise once in a while.
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  13. #113
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    I wonder how it would feel if the higher cogs were actually closer?
    By how much would it affect the climbing ability?

  14. #114
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    Installed my Eagle GX groupset and on the first ride the 50 cog breaks a tooth mid ride. WTF. I did the B check under sag as suggested and made sure the high low settings were spot on the day before. New chain, everything new and at mile 8 the tooth breaks. Took it to the shop and one guy says might not be warrantied because I installed it... Yeah right. The head mechanic took a look and said that these guys were built to take some damage and was puzzled by the broken tooth. He's gonna call SRAM Monday for a replacement. If it breaks again I will freak and go back to 11 speed.

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  15. #115
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    New to eagle and have experienced the exact phenomena the OP describes. Under power the chain will ride up on top of the 42t cog and pop/slam down in when it seats. My immediate thought was that the jockey wheel was not perfectly lining up with the 42t cog and the chain was ever so slightly getting caught on the shift ramps of the 50t and thus riding up on top of the cog. The interesting part here is that it shifted perfectly suggesting cable tension was good. Went ahead and backed the barrel adjuster off more than I would have thought and it stopped doing it solving my problem. Seems eagle shifts well over quite a wide range of cable tension which is new to me.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  16. #116
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    I wouldnt sweat it too much. Ive had plenty of SRAM stuff warrantied through online shops. They may go back and forth with your a couple of times via email, but once they get the feel that you know what youre doing, they warranty without much trouble. At least thats been my experience with them.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKDjEdi View Post
    Installed my Eagle GX groupset and on the first ride the 50 cog breaks a tooth mid ride. WTF. I did the B check under sag as suggested and made sure the high low settings were spot on the day before. New chain, everything new and at mile 8 the tooth breaks. Took it to the shop and one guy says might not be warrantied because I installed it... Yeah right. The head mechanic took a look and said that these guys were built to take some damage and was puzzled by the broken tooth. He's gonna call SRAM Monday for a replacement. If it breaks again I will freak and go back to 11 speed.

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    I've done that with 11 speed. If you notice the broken tooth is right at the top of a shift ramp. Try not to shift under a lot of load. Also it's good technique to hold the shifter lever firm when shifting into the top cog until the chain is all the way on and wrapped the cog before releasing it. Chain line could be a factor as well. Sucks but I'd bet the farm Sram will warranty that lickity split. I've had good luck and fast service simply calling them directly as well.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    I've done that with 11 speed. If you notice the broken tooth is right at the top of a shift ramp. Try not to shift under a lot of load. Also it's good technique to hold the shifter lever firm when shifting into the top cog until the chain is all the way on and wrapped the cog before releasing it. Chain line could be a factor as well. Sucks but I'd bet the farm Sram will warranty that lickity split. I've had good luck and fast service simply calling them directly as well.
    Thanks, the lbs guy who questioned my installment started to creep in my head a little, I mean how hard is it to screw in a Cogset, right? And I have descent tools (from Jensonusa.com)! I was going up a killer climb today 1mile up a 13.5% grade. but with the prior 11 sram cogset I had, never even winced on that climb and it's 2 years old! I'll try that hold lever till the chain seats technique, and maybe just a fluke thing?

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    New to eagle and have experienced the exact phenomena the OP describes. Under power the chain will ride up on top of the 42t cog and pop/slam down in when it seats. My immediate thought was that the jockey wheel was not perfectly lining up with the 42t cog and the chain was ever so slightly getting caught on the shift ramps of the 50t and thus riding up on top of the cog. The interesting part here is that it shifted perfectly suggesting cable tension was good. Went ahead and backed the barrel adjuster off more than I would have thought and it stopped doing it solving my problem. Seems eagle shifts well over quite a wide range of cable tension which is new to me.
    I was just messing with my cable tension just now to try and create this phenomenon and yup, the chain will ride on top of the gears if not aligned right. when the reviews said these Eagles were finicky they were not kidding! Hopefully after the cable breaks in (stretching) this goes away. Not a fan right now. Is this happening with just the GX cogset or all the way up the line to the pricey ones too?

  20. #120
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    I didn't read every post here, but there is no way to fix what is being described. The 50T is a narrow wide cog. Under load when actually riding the bike, it should shift just fine. I have eagle on my bike and it seems to work, I had one issue when i was going up a hill (not even sure you can call it a hill more like rock walls) i could barely turn the pedals at like 20 rpm, I shifted to the 50T and the chain popped off. So for some of you low RPM "oh crap i need to shift" shifting may be causing some issues.

    In a repair stand with no load you have a 50/50 chance of the chain riding up like that. Also if you loose your chain riding, do not try to put it back on the 50T shift and put it back on another gear.

    To an above post it's all the eagle not just GX. One thing I've noticed about GX eagle is it's very sensitive to hanger alignment. XX XO far less so.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooterman View Post
    I didn't read every post here, but there is no way to fix what is being described. The 50T is a narrow wide cog. Under load when actually riding the bike, it should shift just fine. I have eagle on my bike and it seems to work, I had one issue when i was going up a hill (not even sure you can call it a hill more like rock walls) i could barely turn the pedals at like 20 rpm, I shifted to the 50T and the chain popped off. So for some of you low RPM "oh crap i need to shift" shifting may be causing some issues.

    In a repair stand with no load you have a 50/50 chance of the chain riding up like that. Also if you loose your chain riding, do not try to put it back on the 50T shift and put it back on another gear.

    To an above post it's all the eagle not just GX. One thing I've noticed about GX eagle is it's very sensitive to hanger alignment. XX XO far less so.
    The derailer adjustment is super finicky, your gonna have to really spend some time adjusting this thing to almost precise specs, especially the B adjustment. Good luck!!

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  22. #122
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    Add to my comment above... My brother n law got the GX Eagle and he had the lbs install it, turns out they didn't fine tune it and he was having all kinds of shifting issues, riding the 50 and it would want to jump down one under pressure, and we're talking any little pressure, so we adjusted the tension on the cable from the shifter. We tightened the tension. We found out that the high limit screw needed a little adjustment as well and then checked the B tension with the little red plastic tool SRAM ships with all their derailers, and yup... That was way off too! You need to adjust the B screw limit under your normal sag from rear suspension. After all those settings dialed In we could not get that to shift bad or skip drop whatever no matter how hard we tried.

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  23. #123
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    Thought I'd bump this thread with my experience. I just built up a SC 5010 for the Mrs. using the GX eagle. I had this issue with the 2nd cog failing to sync. I tried a number of adjustments to solve the issue and a few things helped lessen it, but nothing made it disappear completely. I also found it more pronounced when shifting up the block 2-3 gears and into the 2nd cog. In this scenario, the chain would ride on the top teeth of the 2nd cog for half a crank or so, then fall into place. If I came down from the largest cog, it would miss syncing about every 10-15 links.

    I decided to trouble shoot the issue by putting my rear wheel and its own cassette on her bike. Same thing occurred. This helped determine it had to be the derailleur, so I returned it to the online dealer and got the XO1 model, mostly because it had go on sale. When I installed it there was zero syncing issues and it has run flawlessly since.

    I had installed the GX eagle on my own bike about six months prior. It was not an easy DT to install for someone of my skill level, but I followed Sram's online video for installation and tweaked it until I got it working perfectly. I have had zero issue with it in 700+ miles of riding.
    The only trace I leave behind is tire marks.

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Reptilian View Post
    Thought I'd bump this thread with my experience. I just built up a SC 5010 for the Mrs. using the GX eagle. I had this issue with the 2nd cog failing to sync. I tried a number of adjustments to solve the issue and a few things helped lessen it, but nothing made it disappear completely. I also found it more pronounced when shifting up the block 2-3 gears and into the 2nd cog. In this scenario, the chain would ride on the top teeth of the 2nd cog for half a crank or so, then fall into place. If I came down from the largest cog, it would miss syncing about every 10-15 links.

    I decided to trouble shoot the issue by putting my rear wheel and its own cassette on her bike. Same thing occurred. This helped determine it had to be the derailleur, so I returned it to the online dealer and got the XO1 model, mostly because it had go on sale. When I installed it there was zero syncing issues and it has run flawlessly since.

    I had installed the GX eagle on my own bike about six months prior. It was not an easy DT to install for someone of my skill level, but I followed Sram's online video for installation and tweaked it until I got it working perfectly. I have had zero issue with it in 700+ miles of riding.

    I honestly believe all Eagle drivetrains do this - there is no way around it. The 42/50 are narrow-wide and at some point the chain won't climb into those gears sync'd corretly. I have XO1 and it does it. My buddies have GX and they both do it. Sram will tell you they know about it. It's more pronounced when not under load in a stand as when you are riding it if it climbs up out of sync it will quickly re-sync sometimes seemlessly sometimes with a small noise.
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  25. #125
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    The same flaw exists on the "new" SRAM ex1 8 speed drivetrain. New since 2016.

    I was able to get the skip to happen less frequently by using a caliper to set the derailluer gap.

    The plastic detailluer gage is unique to the 8 speed ex1 and difficult to find.

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by supergadfly View Post
    The same flaw exists on the "new" SRAM ex1 8 speed drivetrain. New since 2016.

    I was able to get the skip to happen less frequently by using a caliper to set the derailluer gap.

    The plastic detailluer gage is unique to the 8 speed ex1 and difficult to find.
    Yes, the b-screw adj seems to be the key here and I have the red plastic gauge to set mine. It only happens once in a while and I just don't notice it really.
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  27. #127
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    I actually caught my eagle on a hard tail doing this yesterday in the stand. Never noticed it riding, and it synced up fine after a shift out of the big 2 and back

  28. #128
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    I have Eagle on several bikes, and experience this on and off. But on my XC race bike, I have a 12s cassette from Ingrid Components, with Eagle derailleur. It shifts much more smoothly in the lighter gears compared to Eagle. It doesn't have narrow wide.

    Who back pedals enough in the lightest gears to prioritize it over good shifting? Maybe it's time to bring out the Dremel and sand those teeth flat...

  29. #129
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    I got Eagle on my fatbike and sadly am experiencing all these troubles too. Sometimes the chain just goes over the larger chain and just falls off

  30. #130
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    Just stumbled across this thread. I have had issues with my X01 Eagle from day 1 and thought I was imagining things. I donít even go near the bottom 2 gears anymore. After years of riding a SRAM 11 speed with nothing but silky smoothness, all of a sudden my shifts down there are loud and clunky and a bit of a buzzkill. So I just avoid it altogether.

    Iím building a hard tail. Think I may stick with the original plan of trying Shimano this time around, after not having had anything Shimano for well over 5 years. Either that, or go back to the tried and true SRAM 11 speed.

  31. #131
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    It's an adjustment issue...it's finicky...my XO1 is smooth as silk..took some time with the b screw to get it sorted.

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  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by mezastel View Post
    I got Eagle on my fatbike and sadly am experiencing all these troubles too. Sometimes the chain just goes over the larger chain and just falls off
    2 words...limit screw.

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  33. #133
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    Same here, after playing, learning, and fine tuning the b screw, lower and upper limit screws, and just aligning the upper cog to the 50 cog, kinda feel like an expert now...everything works smoothly. And if its a new setup expect it to need some more fine tuning after 50 miles...this set up is super sensitive to cable stretch.

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  34. #134
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    Unrelated, but I bent the shit out of my derailleur hanger too. I haven't done that for maybe a decade. And now I find out this is a common occurrence with all the Eagle rear d's.

    My 11 speed SRAM was flawless. I seem to be having nothing but trouble with my 12 speed X01 Eagle, and it's still early stages with it.

    Anyway, I will fiddle around with it along the lines you suggested and see if I can fine tune it. Love the range, but not in love with it overall. Not yet anyway.

    I think it must be karma for all the times I was all over my daughter for horrible shifts under load. Now she just stares at me when we are riding along and all of a sudden you can hear my drivetrain go clUnK-gRind-clUnK-CluNk, echoing through the trees. All I need are some of my old Avid brakes and I would have a SRAM symphony of horrible noises going on.

  35. #135
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    Hi everyone,

    I have a GX eagle on my Nomad 2018 and it worth gloriously the first 100 miles or so, but recently the chain is sliding inside the cage on the top pulley wheel. I had the chain replace with an XX1 and a new cage replace problem persist, taken the bike to different bike shops and none seem to solve the issue. This is happening in high gears mostly the last three, I have read that the GX derailleur is super sensitive and not as good as the XO1 OR XX1 that that is a reason why a lot of bikes with the GX have the XO1 derailleur. It is worth getting an XO1 or XX1 derailleur? I am starting to get really frustrated any help will be appreciated. Thank you in advance

  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by fedfox View Post
    the chain is sliding inside the cage on the top pulley wheel
    I read it trice but still not sure what you mean

  37. #137
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    He means it comes of the upper pulley wheel and lodges in between the wheel pulley and the cage. Happened twice to my bud. Ripped off and destroyed derailleur the first time and the second time the same happened and destroyed the rear wheel when it went into the spokes. I bet the engineer behind this clusterf$#! is lOK king for a job.

  38. #138
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    Like fisty said "He means it comes of the upper pulley wheel and lodges in between the wheel pulley and the cage. Happened twice to my bud. Ripped off and destroyed derailleur the first time and the second time the same happened and destroyed the rear wheel when it went into the spokes. I bet the engineer behind this clusterf$#! is lOK king for a job."

    It gets loose upper pulley and wheel cage is now happening in the two to three highest gears, and once this week i dropped the chain shifting under power two the highest gears. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you

  39. #139
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    UPDATE:

    I crashed and bended the GX derailleur, i replaced it with an XO1 and boy what a difference. It is crispier, smoother, and it does not have all that side to side movement the GX as, and it shifts great under power. Over all a better built, now i wonder it the GX derailler was damaged and my LBS did not catch it; any how after more the 40 miles and over 5000 ft of climbing i only notice one issue once when the chain was going into the 50t, over all so much better.

  40. #140
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    ^^^there's a reason why it costs more

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