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Thread: Sram Eagle 1x12

  1. #701
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    Forget traditional chain guides, the new must have is the derailleur pulley guide. To stop your chain taking off, like an Eagle

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  2. #702
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    Sorry guys to butt in but Iím just about to buy a new 2016 Scott scale RC 700. Would you keep the SRAM XX1 groupset itís running as standard or sell it all and upgrade to XX1 Eagle?

  3. #703
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    Quote Originally Posted by rebnah View Post
    Sorry guys to butt in but Iím just about to buy a new 2016 Scott scale RC 700. Would you keep the SRAM XX1 groupset itís running as standard or sell it all and upgrade to XX1 Eagle?
    XX1 is great. if you need and want eagle, I would use the money you would spend on a newer bike that has it.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  4. #704
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    XX1 is great. if you need and want eagle, I would use the money you would spend on a newer bike that has it.
    I would uasally but Iím only paying 2k for it so itís so cheap I canít go wrong

  5. #705
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    I think XX1 on a Scott Scale is perfect. Unless you feel you need a higher end "road" gear (like racing Leadville 100) there is no need for Eagle on such a light bike . Or if you feel you need a lower gear that would use the 50t on the Eagle would I recommend getting it. I've ridden 28t chainring with my XX1 on my Scott Spark in extreme cases and felt it was geared fine.

  6. #706
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    I think XX1 on a Scott Scale is perfect. Unless you feel you need a higher end "road" gear (like racing Leadville 100) there is no need for Eagle on such a light bike . Or if you feel you need a lower gear that would use the 50t on the Eagle would I recommend getting it. I've ridden 28t chainring with my XX1 on my Scott Spark in extreme cases and felt it was geared fine.
    Cheers for the advice mate
    Iím quite new to all this and saw the bike and fell in love with it.
    For 2k brand new I know itís 2016 but itís got great reviews.
    So really just best to leave it standard you think? Unless you can recommend and upgrades to make it super cool lol

  7. #707
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    keep the xx1 and think about changing when it's time to replace your cassette/chain/chainring. no reason to replace now... likely you are gonna be losing money

  8. #708
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    Keep the XX1 11spd, such a wonderful drivetrain that is. As others said, keep it and change when it needs replacement.

  9. #709
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    Given that you're supposed to adjust the b-screw while the bike is int its sag, do people notice that the upper pulley hits the large cog when you shift if the bike is just in a stand?

  10. #710
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    Given that you're supposed to adjust the b-screw while the bike is int its sag, do people notice that the upper pulley hits the large cog when you shift if the bike is just in a stand?
    No, not even close. The upper pulley shouldn't move all that much between sag and min/max suspension compression.

  11. #711
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    Cheers for the reply people.
    One more question if you don't mind?
    The choice i have is a new 2016 Scott Scale 700 RC £2K
    or a new 2017 Scott Scale RC 700pro £3.5k
    or third choice is a new 2017 Scott Scale RC 700 World cup £3.3k?

    What would you buy people?

  12. #712
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    Quote Originally Posted by rebnah View Post
    Cheers for the reply people.
    One more question if you don't mind?
    The choice i have is a new 2016 Scott Scale 700 RC £2K
    or a new 2017 Scott Scale RC 700pro £3.5k
    or third choice is a new 2017 Scott Scale RC 700 World cup £3.3k?

    What would you buy people?
    Didn't they redesigned the frame for 2017?
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  13. #713
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    Quote Originally Posted by mevnet View Post
    Didn't they redesigned the frame for 2017?
    Yes they did thatís why the RC 2016 is cheaper.
    What one would you buy? The older cheaper high spec bike or the new frame bike

  14. #714
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    New frame. It's easier (and cheaper) to upgrade the components gradually than it is to upgrade the frame.

    Seems like this discussion is veering wildly off-topic though...it may be better for you to ask in the Scott subforum.

  15. #715
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwa72 View Post
    New frame. It's easier (and cheaper) to upgrade the components gradually than it is to upgrade the frame.

    Seems like this discussion is veering wildly off-topic though...it may be better for you to ask in the Scott subforum.
    Cheers itís ok now Iím sorted.
    I brought a brand new old 2016 Scott scale RC700 and a as new pair of Fox factory Step cast forks to put on it. Then Iím going to sell the brand new RockShox forks

  16. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    Given that you're supposed to adjust the b-screw while the bike is int its sag, do people notice that the upper pulley hits the large cog when you shift if the bike is just in a stand?
    This tip really improved my shifting. It's flawless now!

  17. #717
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    how critical or precise do you need to be when adjusting the high limit screw?

    the sram installation video says "center of the upper pulley wheel is aligned with the outboard edge of the smallest cog."

    https://youtu.be/6wCt9BJRNew?t=5m

    in the past, on other sram drivetrains, i've never needed to do this. i use to adjust the high limit screw so that the upper pulley wheel and smallest cog are aligned completely straight.
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  18. #718
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    how critical or precise do you need to be when adjusting the high limit screw?

    the sram installation video says "center of the upper pulley wheel is aligned with the outboard edge of the smallest cog."

    https://youtu.be/6wCt9BJRNew?t=5m

    in the past, on other sram drivetrains, i've never needed to do this. i use to adjust the high limit screw so that the upper pulley wheel and smallest cog are aligned completely straight.
    I did aligned straight on the high limit and no problem.

    Same on the low limit where there is an error on that video, you have to tighten the screw so that the center of the upper pulley wheel is aligned to the center of the largest cassette cog. (video says smallest cassette).

    In my experience it's important to correctly set the limits for overall sync, but just aligned once and you are ready. I just re check when I change cable.
    Check my DIY for more details.

  19. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipots View Post
    I did aligned straight on the high limit and no problem.

    Same on the low limit where there is an error on that video, you have to tighten the screw so that the center of the upper pulley wheel is aligned to the center of the largest cassette cog. (video says smallest cassette).

    In my experience it's important to correctly set the limits for overall sync, but just aligned once and you are ready. I just re check when I change cable.
    Check my DIY for more details.
    maybe i'll try aligning the high limit screw so that the upper pulley wheel and smallest cog are aligned center on center like you.

    i also noticed the error in the sram video when he was adjusting the low limit screw.
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  20. #720
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    Assembled my new bike in December. I didn't watch the video, I just set both limits screws like I have any other derailleur, pulled the cable until there was no slack, then rode. It was a little noisy in the middle gears, so I tightened the cable with the adjuster at the shifter and it has been fine since.

  21. #721
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    Quote Originally Posted by niels65 View Post
    I still have tension on the derailleur though it it doesn't look of much, the chain is still tight. I followed the instruction in the SRAM installation video on YouTube.
    Does it work alright with this length of the chain? I get similar according to Sramīs instructions, seems too long?

    Sram Eagle 1x12-img_0668.jpg

  22. #722
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnil View Post
    Does it work alright with this length of the chain? I get similar according to Sramīs instructions, seems too long?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Try to shift to the largest cog, and also let out the air of the rear shock. By full compression there should be a little play in the derailleur. Depending of your rear shock travel, I would think that you could shorten it by one link (I ended up doing so - after taking this picture).


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  23. #723
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnil View Post
    Does it work alright with this length of the chain? I get similar according to Sramīs instructions, seems too long?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mine is probably two links shorter than that and so far (in the stand) it works great. I followed SRAM directions but when I linked it up and put it through the derailleur I did not have enough tension so I dropped two more and it seems good, didn't even do any barrel adjusting and it's shifting pretty decent.

  24. #724
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    What I found most funky about Eagle adjustment procedure was the high limit adjustment. Adjust until the center of the upper pulley aligns with the outboard edge of the small cog.
    Normally Iíd just like those up straight on a Shimano setup.

  25. #725
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    I've had setups on some bikes that required a little over travel to get onto a cog (kind of like a front derailleur). I can see with the long travel this system makes it may get a more reliable shift into that last gear, maybe a little more flex in it?

  26. #726
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    Quote Originally Posted by phalkon30 View Post
    I've had setups on some bikes that required a little over travel to get onto a cog (kind of like a front derailleur). I can see with the long travel this system makes it may get a more reliable shift into that last gear, maybe a little more flex in it?
    i didn't really over adjust mine, I did initially but needed to adjust the cable tension, and when I tightened the cable I think it moved the wheel right back over the small cog instead of to the outside, but it drops onto it just fine, I'm not going to re-adjust if it's working.

  27. #727
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    Quote Originally Posted by niels65 View Post
    Try to shift to the largest cog, and also let out the air of the rear shock. By full compression there should be a little play in the derailleur. Depending of your rear shock travel, I would think that you could shorten it by one link (I ended up doing so - after taking this picture).


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    The chain looks too long to me, but you really need to size the chain when the distance between the BB and the rear axle is greatest (this usually, but not always, occurs when the suspension is fully compressed). At that point you add one inner and one outer link to the chain to get it to the correct length. Yes, it's a little counter-intuitive since, for hardtails, SRAM's guidance is to add two outer and two inner links, but for full suspension bikes, you add one inner & one outer link to the chain when the BB-to-axle distance is greatest.

  28. #728
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwa72 View Post
    The chain looks too long to me, but you really need to size the chain when the distance between the BB and the rear axle is greatest (this usually, but not always, occurs when the suspension is fully compressed). At that point you add one inner and one outer link to the chain to get it to the correct length. Yes, it's a little counter-intuitive since, for hardtails, SRAM's guidance is to add two outer and two inner links, but for full suspension bikes, you add one inner & one outer link to the chain when the BB-to-axle distance is greatest.
    I agree, definitely chain looks longer than my FS setup.

  29. #729
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    $110 Paperweight

    Had to replace my GX Eagle after just 5 rides when I pulled in a stick which twisted cage into spokes (see post #694). Was able to stop quickly and avoided wheel damage.

    After disassembly and inspection, there were very minor visual ques as to where or how it was twisted. I used hangar alignment tool and verified dropout was in spec (was out a bit). Took cage apart and using a vice I attempted to straighten cage plates where there was a very slight bend at lower pulley shaft area. Re-installed but still way out of whack when shifting to 3 biggest cogs. The chain would still roll right off bottom pulley from misalignment.

    New one came in and visual comparison confirmed the old one is twisted but hard to determine exactly where things were off. I did notice the lower cog design was a little different on the new one. It has more ramps on both sides.

    Installed and set up per SRAM guidance with no issues...thankfully all is good again.

    Pix of old one...looks like new but it's junk:
    Sram Eagle 1x12-img_0296.jpg
    Sram Eagle 1x12-img_0297.jpg
    Sram Eagle 1x12-img_0298.jpg
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  30. #730
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    There are SRAM spare parts available for the derailleur cage. Before you throw that derailleur away, you should probably chase them down to see what they cost. You can use it as a spare, because what you describe can happen any time to anyone.

  31. #731
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    Quote Originally Posted by screamingbunny View Post
    Not sure if this has been posted else where but Shmeagle works flawlessly

    Attachment 1178130
    How has this been holding up ? Still working for you ?

    I have 3 Shimano 11spd derailleurs myself. I guess it doesn't cost me anything to try it, putting Eagle on one of my bikes this weekend.

  32. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColinL View Post
    There are SRAM spare parts available for the derailleur cage. Before you throw that derailleur away, you should probably chase them down to see what they cost. You can use it as a spare, because what you describe can happen any time to anyone.
    Ha ha...You kiddin' me...I still have broken bike frames, rims, cassettes, brake discs, etc, kicking around from 15-20 years ago! Won't be throwing a 'gently used' GX Eagle 12 spd derailleur away for at least another 10 years or so!
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  33. #733
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    Quote Originally Posted by mevnet View Post
    More info here in a visual form:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIM5xFiBgkw
    I know I'm replying to an old post, but that video is helpful on a few points.

    I've recently started experiencing poor shifting at around gears 8-9 or 9-10. If I fidddle with cable tension I can get it to go away but the problem moves to other gears. I assumed that I may have tweaked my RD with a stick or bush, but it could also be adjustments backing out. I carefully went through and checked limits and B-tension using the SRAM tool, but because I'm on a coil shock, it's not easy for me to do it at sag.

    So what I took away from the video is that I can imitate sag by setting the B-tension about 1mm below the line on the SRAM tool, and that since I use an oval chainring, I need to do this with the crank arm at the 4:00 position.

    It will be interesting to see if this resolves my problem.

  34. #734
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I know I'm replying to an old post, but that video is helpful on a few points.

    I've recently started experiencing poor shifting at around gears 8-9 or 9-10. If I fidddle with cable tension I can get it to go away but the problem moves to other gears. I assumed that I may have tweaked my RD with a stick or bush, but it could also be adjustments backing out. I carefully went through and checked limits and B-tension using the SRAM tool, but because I'm on a coil shock, it's not easy for me to do it at sag.

    So what I took away from the video is that I can imitate sag by setting the B-tension about 1mm below the line on the SRAM tool, and that since I use an oval chainring, I need to do this with the crank arm at the 4:00 position.

    It will be interesting to see if this resolves my problem.
    check your derailleur hanger to make sure it's not tweaked. eagle is more sensitive to this then other and past drive trains.

  35. #735
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    hi.
    i own a merida big.nine 7000 (2015)
    (https://www.merida-bikes.com/en_int/...7000-2102.html) with 2x10 shimano xt drivetrain and fulcrum red power hp 29 wheels.

    want to change to 1х12 sram eagle gx.

    so i need:
    - a trigger upgrade kit (https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...ade-kit-648934)
    - a freehub xd adapter (https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...ower-hp-257712)
    - in the front i remove a derailleur and small chainring, for big use any 104bcd compatible 10-12speed chainring, and add spacer (2-3mm?) for chainline aligment.

    -optionally, if i really want sram cranks - change bottom bracket to gxp.

    am i correct?

  36. #736
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    Sram Eagle 1x12

    Found some mud yesterday that wreaked havoc on my Eagle. Mud packed in the chain so tightly it would just fall off the chainring. I was too busy fighting the mud to take good pics, but hereís a couple shots after I scraped as much I could off trail side and did the high speed fire road back to the trailhead.
    **EDIT** I should clarify this was extremely sticky clay and not mud per se. My buddies with wider chains didnít seem to have nearly as hard a time with chainring retention as I did.


    Last edited by farfromovin; 03-04-2018 at 02:07 PM.

  37. #737
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    Sram Eagle 1x12

    Quote Originally Posted by avaddon View Post
    hi.
    i own a merida big.nine 7000 (2015)
    (https://www.merida-bikes.com/en_int/...7000-2102.html) with 2x10 shimano xt drivetrain and fulcrum red power hp 29 wheels.

    want to change to 1х12 sram eagle gx.

    so i need:
    - a trigger upgrade kit (https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...ade-kit-648934)
    - a freehub xd adapter (https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...ower-hp-257712)
    - in the front i remove a derailleur and small chainring, for big use any 104bcd compatible 10-12speed chainring, and add spacer (2-3mm?) for chainline aligment.

    -optionally, if i really want sram cranks - change bottom bracket to gxp.

    am i correct?
    It would be the easiest to say - buy a full drivetrain kit - but that said. Xd Adapter, cassette, chain, derailleur, trigger/gripshift. And if you can get the SRAM Eagle chainring to fit on the Shimano spider (could be this one https://www.bike-components.de/de/SR...104-mm-p55226/) that could do the trick. But if youíre not going to swap the complete crankset then be careful with the right thickness of spacers in order to maintain the ideal driveline.


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  38. #738
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    Quote Originally Posted by avaddon View Post
    hi.
    i own a merida big.nine 7000 (2015)
    (https://www.merida-bikes.com/en_int/...7000-2102.html) with 2x10 shimano xt drivetrain and fulcrum red power hp 29 wheels.

    want to change to 1х12 sram eagle gx.

    so i need:
    - a trigger upgrade kit (https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...ade-kit-648934)
    - a freehub xd adapter (https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...ower-hp-257712)
    - in the front i remove a derailleur and small chainring, for big use any 104bcd compatible 10-12speed chainring, and add spacer (2-3mm?) for chainline aligment.

    -optionally, if i really want sram cranks - change bottom bracket to gxp.

    am i correct?
    By the time you buy a decent 104 BCD n/w chainring you might as well spend a few bucks extra and get a GX crankset for around $100. What's more, that crankset will come with a DM X-Sync 2 chainring which is arguably better suited to work with the rest of your Eagle drivetrain.

  39. #739
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    Quote Originally Posted by farfromovin View Post
    Found some mud yesterday that wreaked havoc on my Eagle. Mud packed in the chain so tightly it would just fall off the chainring. I was too busy fighting the mud to take good pics, but hereís a couple shots after I scraped as much I could off trail side and did the high speed fire road back to the trailhead
    Iíve had the same issue a few times when caught out in mud. Couldnít handle it at all and wasnít the same until I deep cleaned it.

  40. #740
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    I dropped a muddy eagle chain yesterday as well. Oddly enough it came off the front when i was pedaling up a hill at a slower speed. Stayed on during all of the rowdy sections.

  41. #741
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    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    I dropped a muddy eagle chain yesterday as well. Oddly enough it came off the front when i was pedaling up a hill at a slower speed. Stayed on during all of the rowdy sections.
    Had similar issues with narrow wide chains in general, then again the mud round here is a chalk/clay mix which stick and clogs anything.

  42. #742
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    Hi guys. Can someone explain to me if my wheelset is compatible with sram GX eagle? A long story short, I'm building a new bike ( Specialized Chisel), I got frame and wheelset. The wheels are American Classic 29 wide lightning with 11 SPEED cassette Shimano. I'm planning to buy the all Sram GX eagle groupset. Will the cassette 12 speed work with my corrent hub? Thanks

  43. #743
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    Quote Originally Posted by italianbike74 View Post
    Hi guys. Can someone explain to me if my wheelset is compatible with sram GX eagle? A long story short, I'm building a new bike ( Specialized Chisel), I got frame and wheelset. The wheels are American Classic 29 wide lightning with 11 SPEED cassette Shimano. I'm planning to buy the all Sram GX eagle groupset. Will the cassette 12 speed work with my corrent hub? Thanks
    Youíre going to need to change the cassette body to an XD driver...but it should work.

    https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...hoCQn8QAvD_BwE

  44. #744
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    Newish (half a dozen rides) Eagle GX owner here, in the middle of my ride today I started getting ghost shifting in the middle six gears. When this happened on my old bike it was a bent hanger. The only difference is the Eagle was shifting like two or three gears past the gear I was trying to shift into sometimes. I'm thinking about ordering a derailleur hanger alignment tool and fixing it myself. I figured the tool will pay itself off over time. Anything other than a bent hanger I should look out for?

  45. #745
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Newish (half a dozen rides) Eagle GX owner here, in the middle of my ride today I started getting ghost shifting in the middle six gears. When this happened on my old bike it was a bent hanger. The only difference is the Eagle was shifting like two or three gears past the gear I was trying to shift into sometimes. I'm thinking about ordering a derailleur hanger alignment tool and fixing it myself. I figured the tool will pay itself off over time. Anything other than a bent hanger I should look out for?
    B gap... on my *epic* clay ride that jacked my drivetrain up, it was ghost shifting, double shifting, etc... the clay had moved my derailleur off the tab where the b gap screw hits.

  46. #746
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Anything other than a bent hanger I should look out for?
    Yep, all of the stupid stuff. It sounds simple, but I've ran into many situations where the cassette was loose, the dropout was loose, the derailleur itself was loose (bolt), and so on. Sometimes when you have it cinched together with the axle/clamp, it's not obvious, but pay close attention and go over each and every detail of the drivetrain, take the wheel out, make sure everything is good.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  47. #747
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    Quote Originally Posted by farfromovin View Post
    B gap... on my *epic* clay ride that jacked my drivetrain up, it was ghost shifting, double shifting, etc... the clay had moved my derailleur off the tab where the b gap screw hits.
    Thanks, the b screw appears to be sitting on the tab just fine. I don't even know what I hit today. I got the alignment tool on order.

  48. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Yep, all of the stupid stuff. It sounds simple, but I've ran into many situations where the cassette was loose, the dropout was loose, the derailleur itself was loose (bolt), and so on. Sometimes when you have it cinched together with the axle/clamp, it's not obvious, but pay close attention and go over each and every detail of the drivetrain, take the wheel out, make sure everything is good.
    Thanks, I'll give it a look over. I did already check to make sure the hanger and derailleur weren't loose though.

  49. #749
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    Anybody that rides hard having long term success with the gx derailleur?

    I'm about to build my first eagle equipped bike. After reading this thread I'm wondering if I should sell off the gx derailleur while it's new and get an xo1?
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  50. #750
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    Riding GX for 8 months, 5 times per week in Arizona red rock. No problem at all. The drive train is more sensitive to adjustments but that has nothing to do with GX. It is a 12 speed issue. I did upgrade to a better shifter only because of thumb arthritis. Would not spend the money on an upgraded derailleur

  51. #751
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    After reading this thread I'm wondering if I should sell off the gx derailleur while it's new and get an xo1?
    No point in that. Virtually no weight difference. If the bike has the gx cassette upgrade that. It's a 3-4 ounce difference between that and the xo1.

  52. #752
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    I noticed a slight shifting "feel" improvement when upgrading the GX shifter and GX cassette to X01. The other parts (chain, derailleur) didn't make any difference.

  53. #753
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Newish (half a dozen rides) Eagle GX owner here, in the middle of my ride today I started getting ghost shifting in the middle six gears. When this happened on my old bike it was a bent hanger. The only difference is the Eagle was shifting like two or three gears past the gear I was trying to shift into sometimes. I'm thinking about ordering a derailleur hanger alignment tool and fixing it myself. I figured the tool will pay itself off over time. Anything other than a bent hanger I should look out for?
    Just did that myself after replacing trashed rear der...went with the Park Tool DAG2.2. I think Amazon had best price I could find at like $70. Park has good vids on proper alignment. Also, assume you saw SRAM video's on how to properly set up Eagle. There's a few little nuggets there as well for Hi/Low stop setting and B Gap adj.
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  54. #754
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    Quote Originally Posted by sturge View Post
    Just did that myself after replacing trashed rear der...went with the Park Tool DAG2.2. I think Amazon had best price I could find at like $70. Park has good vids on proper alignment. Also, assume you saw SRAM video's on how to properly set up Eagle. There's a few little nuggets there as well for Hi/Low stop setting and B Gap adj.
    I actually ordered the same Park tool and Sram B gap gauge from Amazon. I watched the Sram installation video and it seems pretty straight forward. What happened to your derailleur?

  55. #755
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    I have a PF92 frame shell and want to mount XX1 Eagle Crankset into it. Is this combo even supported? Is it advisable or a bad idea? Ideally I'd like a thread-together BB but I'm guessing nothing that goes into a PF92 shell will work well with the BB30 cranks.

  56. #756
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    I have a PF92 frame shell and want to mount XX1 Eagle Crankset into it. Is this combo even supported? Is it advisable or a bad idea? Ideally I'd like a thread-together BB but I'm guessing nothing that goes into a PF92 shell will work well with the BB30 cranks.
    I believe that you will need a bb86/92 to bb30 conversion kit. I would buy one from wheels mfg. https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...m-bracket.html

    Fwiw, I have a bb92 bike with a gxp crankset and I used the wheels mfg thread together bottom bracket. I absolutely love the bottom bracket overall and I think it's a must have for any press fit bike with pf86/92 standards. I have no experience with the above linked 86/92 to bb30 conversion, but Wheels MFG parts are amazing and I've never heard any complaints.

  57. #757
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    I have a PF92 frame shell and want to mount XX1 Eagle Crankset into it. Is this combo even supported? Is it advisable or a bad idea? Ideally I'd like a thread-together BB but I'm guessing nothing that goes into a PF92 shell will work well with the BB30 cranks.
    if you still can I think it's worth going with a gxp so you can use thread together BBs instead of pure press fit BBs

  58. #758
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    I have a PF92 frame shell and want to mount XX1 Eagle Crankset into it. Is this combo even supported? Is it advisable or a bad idea? Ideally I'd like a thread-together BB but I'm guessing nothing that goes into a PF92 shell will work well with the BB30 cranks.
    Do you have the crank yet?

    It's one of the reason sram developed their DUB stuff.
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  59. #759
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    I actually ordered the same Park tool and Sram B gap gauge from Amazon. I watched the Sram installation video and it seems pretty straight forward. What happened to your derailleur?
    See Post #729. Pulled in a stick that yanked cage into spokes (5th ride!).
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  60. #760
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Do you have the crank yet?

    It's one of the reason sram developed their DUB stuff.
    Thanks everyone for the help. I don't have the cranks or the BB yet. Had a potential deal on a take-off set but it's not looking good that it'll work. I feel strongly about the thread-together fit on my press fit RM Instinct so prob not going to happen.

    I wish SRAM would also do a thread together BB for the press fit 92 shells. It's confusing today, I see why they want to "systemize" everything into one. Would make it easy assuming the BB is a high end option.

  61. #761
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    I have a PF92 frame shell and want to mount XX1 Eagle Crankset into it. Is this combo even supported? Is it advisable or a bad idea? Ideally I'd like a thread-together BB but I'm guessing nothing that goes into a PF92 shell will work well with the BB30 cranks.
    Get this. It's a thread-together BB86/92 bottom bracket that'll let you use GXP cranks. I use the PF30 version on my SC Stigmata and my wife's Niner RLT9 and it's fantastic. I prefer GXP to BB30 cranks because you don't have to faff around with bearing pre-load adjustment -- GXP crankset installation is as foolproof as it gets.
    Last edited by Schwa72; 4 Weeks Ago at 08:34 AM.

  62. #762
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwa72 View Post
    Get this.
    Careful, you linked to the straight 24mm version for shimano cranks. That wont fit GXP. Youll need the stepped 24/22 version for GXP. https://wheelsmfg.com/bb86-92-outboa...nks-black.html

    I'm running this BB and have been extremely happy with it so far.

  63. #763
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Careful, you linked to the straight 24mm version for shimano cranks. That wont fit GXP. Youll need the stepped 24/22 version for GXP. https://wheelsmfg.com/bb86-92-outboa...nks-black.html

    I'm running this BB and have been extremely happy with it so far.
    Oops, my bad! I fixed the link. FWIW I have one straight 24mm version and one stepped SRAM version (both in the PF30 variety) and they've both been great.

  64. #764
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    This may help, svinyard. The crankset discussion starts at about 2:30
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=vp-KoztNnZo

  65. #765
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Newish (half a dozen rides) Eagle GX owner here, in the middle of my ride today I started getting ghost shifting in the middle six gears. When this happened on my old bike it was a bent hanger. The only difference is the Eagle was shifting like two or three gears past the gear I was trying to shift into sometimes. I'm thinking about ordering a derailleur hanger alignment tool and fixing it myself. I figured the tool will pay itself off over time. Anything other than a bent hanger I should look out for?
    Update: The hanger was fine but had to adjust the b screw. It shifts great now. The only issue is that the shifter takes about twice the effort to press the levers when shifting in and out of the lowest gear. It goes into gear just fine and there's no noise, it's just the levers are harder to press. It's not difficult to press, just noticably stiffer than shifting in the other gears. Maybe it's normal and I just don't remember it being that hard before?

  66. #766
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    Spare Parts:

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....m_spc_revc.pdf

    11.7518.086.000 REAR DERAILLEUR B-BOLT AND LIMIT SCREW KIT

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    11.7518.089.000 GX EAGLE X-SYNC REAR DERAILLEUR PULLEY KIT

    11.7518.082.000 GX EAGLE REAR DERAILLEUR CHAINGAP ADJUSTMENT GAGE XX1/X01 EAGLE
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  67. #767
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    So, I just purchased a used Trek 9.8SL with aN XO shifter and an X01 rear derailleur. I am contemplating purchasing a GX eagle group set but I wanted to get your thaughts on if it would be worth it. I have a carbon crank so all I need to do is swap the chain ring. I should save some weight there. But do you think adding the GX eagle would add a bunch of weight to the bike?

    I think the only thing heavier is the cassette.

    Anyways, what would you do? Keep the X0/X01 11 speed or go with GX eagle?

  68. #768
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    depends...

    Hello! there is no 100% percent certain answer to your question, so the correct answer will be "it depends"ÖBased on my experience, I'll suggest following theses steps to decide:

    First: understanding basics.
    In relation to 1x11, the eagle only helps on climbing so decision must be based on your skill and enjoyment of climbing.
    In relation to weight, unless you are competing at a pro level, a few hundred grams won't make a real difference.
    1x12 is certainly a fine adjustment dependable transmission, less straightforward in terms of set up compared to your stock 1x11. This means that miss adjustments, cable wear and external elements tend to provoke big problems on the 1x12 rather than just a sound or a slight problem as a 1x11 or 1x10.

    so how would I decide: first ask yourself these questions:
    1- Climbing:
    Do you like and do a lot of climbing on your typical weekend, weekly, daily trip/races.
    Are those climbs steep enough so that most/sometimes even on the 11th cog I need to dismount and walk?
    Do you do a lot of long lasting trips/races with big altitude differences where you could save some energy on long climbs by using the lower gear?
    2- Adjustment
    Do you mind having to be worried about the transmission adjustment and understanding tunning at least every 4 or 5 trips?
    Do I understand the eagle setup video, in terms of barrel adjustment and the b-gap tool?
    Do you like to tune your bike, and understand how to adjust the high and low limits and b screw?

    If none of these questions was an immediate ďyesĒÖthen keep your money, buy yourself something else, save and enjoy your bike.
    If on the climbing questions you answer 1 or 2 with a yes, then move to the adjustment part and if you answer yes on a couple of questions or at least have the willingness to learn then I will consider buying. Itís not too difficult to learn though.

    Look around the forum and you will see that Eagle is sort of a hate or love transmission. Some love it and some hate it. Iím a lover, and in my opinion, most of the haters are people who donít like to be worried about tuning or have received a defective part but they can only realize that because the understand about tunning.

    If you still worry about weight and have a few more bucks to spend, go for the X01 or XX1 cassettes which are lighter.

    Here is a DIY you help you through the process.

  69. #769
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    Eagle doesn't necessarily only help on climbing. I went from a 30t front with 42-10 11sp to 32t front with 50-10 Eagle. So I got a slightly easier granny gear, and all my other gears became slightly harder (for descending).

  70. #770
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    you are right, I was not considering a chainring change as you did.

  71. #771
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    I live in Italy so climbing is all there is. I have no issues climbing with my 11 speed. Right now I am running a 10-42 cassette with a 32 chain ring. If I went with eagle, I would change to a 34 chain ring.

    I know you say 209 grams doesnít matter, but to me it does.

    I do not mind adjusting my bike, I like to do all my own maintenance.

    I was thinking of getting the XO1 cassette and I already have the x01 carbon crank.

  72. #772
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    I saw this thread and remembered posting around the middle of last year that I was less than jubilant about my X01 Eagle setup performance. Since that time, I began to attack the setup with military-precision measurements (****-hair) and see what I could achieve. Things are better now, with only the occasional indexing bang on the 42 and 50. It's smoother, faster, and better than it was, but still not perfect and definitely not set-and-forget. I'm beginning to think some of the issues are actually caused by the compliant flex of my hardtail Ti frame.

    Enter my second Eagle bike, a full squish with GX. If anything, this has been better performing than my X01 install. It's pretty much spot-on 95% of the time and I haven't had to screw about with it very much. Then again there is no flex in the rear triangle like there is on my other bike, so I think that contributes to keeping things happy.

    All of this leads me to believe that the old adage is true, 'there is no such thing as a free lunch'. I love the 50t for nasty climbs, especially at the end of the day, but it's temperamental if you just like to ride and not worry too much about your build. 11-speed has the worry-free thing covered in ways 12-speed never will. I also honestly feel rear triangle flex/compliance such as my Ti bike exhibits, combined with 12-speed, makes for somewhat disagreeable bedfellows. If I had to do it again, I'm not sure whether I'd go 11 or 12 speed. Both have their charms and faults.

  73. #773
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    Hello again Pemberton32, if climbing is important and a few grams do matter for your riding, then I guess you take MTB seriously, probably competing. Also, if you like doing your own tuning, then you are a good Eagle candidate. So for the final decision, I'll focus on 2 of the climbing questions:
    Do you usually dismount and have to walk due to steep and/or long climbs? Do you feel that you could save some energy on long climbs by using the lower gear?

    If both these questions have never been a problem, maybe just go for a 30 chainring or a oneup 44 large cog replacement and save on budget and maintenance. Some people even feel that 50T is too low, so they lose power and the front wheel hops on climbs.

    From my experience and a few guys on my riding group that have the eagle, the best usages are:
    - When you don't want to push hard due to lack of fitness, fatigue or want to save energy for a long ride.
    - You are dismounting a lot on medium to long steep climbing sections, due to running out of energy or breathe.
    - You are pushing hard on a steep climb and there is a steeper and/or technical section where a lower gear could give you an extra help.
    - You are pushing hard on a race or trying to beat your time and you need to do some active fatigue control to allow you to get to the top on a climb.

    hope this helps.

    PS: while I was writing this post, in came a great post by BadgerOne on tuning concerns on 1x12 vs 1x11.

  74. #774
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    Quote Originally Posted by pemberton325 View Post
    I live in Italy so climbing is all there is. I have no issues climbing with my 11 speed. Right now I am running a 10-42 cassette with a 32 chain ring. If I went with eagle, I would change to a 34 chain ring.

    I know you say 209 grams doesnít matter, but to me it does.

    I do not mind adjusting my bike, I like to do all my own maintenance.

    I was thinking of getting the XO1 cassette and I already have the x01 carbon crank.
    You could always go with the the e13 9-46 11-speed cassette and you wouldn't even have to change out your chainring and you'd get more range on the top and the bottom.

  75. #775
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    Thanks all! Pilots, yes I do race quite a bit. As for the climbs, I have no issues climbing with the 11 speed. Right now I have a 32 front chain ring with a 10-42 cassette. The 42 tooth is my granny/bail out gear. I donít need it mostly except extreme climbs.

    The only climbs I have to walk/hike up are the ones to technical for me. An extra gear wouldnít matter. In a race, I donít think I have ever walked up a climb.

    If I did get the Eagle, I would be getting it for the Bling factor, performance and top end speed. Not climbing.

    I appreciate eveones thaughts and feed back, I will continue to read the thread to help me make my decision.

    I have also contemplated getting the XO1 eagle, but I am not sure if the price difference is worth it.

  76. #776
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    Gotta agree on the love hate thing. I hated my eagle GX coming from the sloppy reliability of a 3x9. The gx chain and cassette were replaced under warranty and now I love it! 6 months riding without anything but chain lube, not a single adjustment and absolutely crisp shifting.

    I imagine once I ding something up in a minor crash I'll go back to hating it... But it's sweet when it works!

  77. #777
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    I found a good deal on XX1 11 speed so I decided to go that route. Way lighter and right now I donít need 12 gears.

  78. #778
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    Has Your Eagle Been a Debris Magnet Compared to Previous Systems?

    Quote Originally Posted by sturge View Post
    Had to replace my GX Eagle after just 5 rides when I pulled in a stick which twisted cage into spokes (see post #694). Was able to stop quickly and avoided wheel damage.

    After disassembly and inspection, there were very minor visual ques as to where or how it was twisted. I used hangar alignment tool and verified dropout was in spec (was out a bit). Took cage apart and using a vice I attempted to straighten cage plates where there was a very slight bend at lower pulley shaft area. Re-installed but still way out of whack when shifting to 3 biggest cogs. The chain would still roll right off bottom pulley from misalignment.

    New one came in and visual comparison confirmed the old one is twisted but hard to determine exactly where things were off. I did notice the lower cog design was a little different on the new one. It has more ramps on both sides.

    Installed and set up per SRAM guidance with no issues...thankfully all is good again.

    Pix of old one...looks like new but it's junk:
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    Since above replacement of a barely used but trashed derailleur I have put in about a dozen rides. Everything is set up per SRAM web guidance, I aligned hangar, set 'B' gap, hi/lo stops, etc....performs flawlessly on the new Kona. I absolutely LOVE this 1X system, the crisp shifting, the range of gearing available, and no front derailleur to deal with.

    BUT....I am convinced this system is going to be short lived for me because of how easily it draws debris into the lower jockey wheel and what happens when the jockey wheel gets jammed. The lower part of derailleur is much closer to the ground than any of my previous bikes (all Shimano). I've had numerous events where a small stick pulled into it and caused jamming of the jockey wheel. I quickly stop when I hear it but 3-4 times I found the cage was pulled inward until the inner leading edge of the lower cage snags on a spoke. I have to forcefully pry the spoke out from between the jockey wheel and the inner side of cage. So far I've avoided another twisted derailleur and everything still performs great but I predict my future has another $110 Eagle derailleur getting trashed.

    I realize many don't deal with trails with lots of debris but New England single track riding can't be the only place full of small sticks and debris (especially in spring). I've ridden the same type of terrain for 30 years and could count on one hand how many times debris resulted in a trashed derailleur but I have been through a few hangars. And I can't ever remember my derailleur being pulled into my spokes.

    Has anyone else had similar issues?
    Have the debris gods just decided to pick on me?
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  79. #779
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    UPDATE on my Eagle RDs

    -My two snapped GX 12 speed RDs (cages and upper pulley) were fixed by SRAM under warranty claim

    -Every week more and more GX cage failure. Last 3 week 2 Giant Reings and 1 SC Nomad. All while going down and trying to pedal, upper pulley snaps cage.....

    -My Slash still working perfectly, all 12 gears, with my 11speed X01 RD (have trained LOTS, competed 2 enduros including mud fest EWS Manizales)


    IMO the need for such a fine adjustment on these 12 speed RDs is a flaw for Enduro type MTB making all these RDs fail. My 12 speed cassette + 11 speed RD works perfectly, 0 adjustments are made, just cleaning, it is the way to go....
    Last edited by TrialsCartel; 1 Week Ago at 12:21 PM.
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  80. #780
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    I wish I knew earlier that an 11 spd rd would work, but it's nice to know that option is there if I break my eagle one. I love when people figure these things out, much to the chagrin of srams marketing department. Remember when they said the ONLY eagle part that would work with anything else is the front chainrings? Lol

  81. #781
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    I've not read all of this, but have a question regarding chainline: Anyone know approximately which cassette cog the front ring should line up with? Or in general if the chainring should be lined up with the middle of the cassette?

    Friend just got a Banshee Prime and is having a few issues. After setting the proper b-screw gap with the bike sagged, things are better. But the chainring is biased to the smaller cogs. Chainline to the big cog looks awful to me, but maybe that is normal. The bike is boost and has a stock GX boost crankset.

    Side note: Another friend got the same bike but with SRAM 11-speed. I set it up in 10 minutes, and it has been flawless for almost a year now.

  82. #782
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    I've not read all of this, but have a question regarding chainline: Anyone know approximately which cassette cog the front ring should line up with? Or in general if the chainring should be lined up with the middle of the cassette?

    Friend just got a Banshee Prime and is having a few issues. After setting the proper b-screw gap with the bike sagged, things are better. But the chainring is biased to the smaller cogs. Chainline to the big cog looks awful to me, but maybe that is normal. The bike is boost and has a stock GX boost crankset.

    Side note: Another friend got the same bike but with SRAM 11-speed. I set it up in 10 minutes, and it has been flawless for almost a year now.
    On my new Kona the chainline is lined up with middle of rear GX12 cassette. At about 6th gear in from smallest cog. Even with that the offset when shifting to big 50T gear looks crazy to me but it shifts smoothly and have not had any problems (except my recent stick/RD damage issue described in previous posts). I would be concerned with your buddies setup if it's the way you describe it. Have you verified hangar is in alignment?
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  83. #783
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACKL View Post
    I've not read all of this, but have a question regarding chainline: Anyone know approximately which cassette cog the front ring should line up with? Or in general if the chainring should be lined up with the middle of the cassette?

    Friend just got a Banshee Prime and is having a few issues. After setting the proper b-screw gap with the bike sagged, things are better. But the chainring is biased to the smaller cogs. Chainline to the big cog looks awful to me, but maybe that is normal. The bike is boost and has a stock GX boost crankset.

    Side note: Another friend got the same bike but with SRAM 11-speed. I set it up in 10 minutes, and it has been flawless for almost a year now.
    I have three Eagle bikes (one boost, two regular) and the chainline on all of them seems to be best between the fifth and sixth smallest cogs. So, yeah, the chainline IME seems to be offset a little bit toward the smaller cogs.

    If you think about it this makes sense. As close together as the cogs are, if the chainline were offset too much toward the larger cogs, the chain would be at pretty extreme angles when in the smaller cogs and when in a given small cog it'd be more likely to rub on the next bigger one.

  84. #784
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
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    Non boost bike use a 49mm chain line and boost bikes use a 52mm.
    A perfect setup would be dead center of the cassette, but in reality all are offset towards the small rings. This is because the approach angle of the chain can snag on the 2nd smallest cog and mess with shifting proformance. This is not a problem on the big end of the cassette as the smaller gears are not in the chains path.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  85. #785
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    Thanks all, I'll check and see where the chain falls on the cassette next time I see the bike. Sounds like it is probably fine and just needs a careful setup by the book.

  86. #786
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrialsCartel View Post
    -My two snapped GX 12 speed RDs (cages and upper pulley) were fixed by SRAM under warranty claim

    -Every week more and more GX cage failure. Last 3 week 2 Giant Reings and 1 SC Nomad. All while going down and trying to pedal, upper pulley snaps cage.....

    -My Slash still working perfectly, all 12 gears, with my 11speed X01 RD (have trained LOTS, competed 2 enduros including mud fest EWS Manizales)


    IMO the need for such a fine adjustment on these 12 speed RDs is a flaw for Enduro type MTB making all these RDs fail. My 12 speed cassette + 11 speed RD works perfectly, 0 adjustments are made, just cleaning, it is the way to go....

    Todays group ride we saw yet another Eagle GX RD snap the inner cage (upper pulley failure), this time a 2018 Devinci Spartan....yet again while going down and trying to pedal....
    Yeti ASR Carbon X01 2016 (Trail)
    Trek Slash 9.8 29 2018 (Enduro)
    Monty M5 (Trials)

  87. #787
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    So XX1 and XO1 pulley/cage is built of a different material?
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  88. #788
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    So XX1 and XO1 pulley/cage is built of a different material?
    Could be...or maybe just a lot more GXs around making the problem more visible on those...I also predict is something more prone to happen while riding "enduro" as opposed to XC, as the snapping always happens during a pedal sprint going down after a rough bit.....(rough bit misaligns chain off pulley, one pedals hard to jump or gain speed...and snap)
    Yeti ASR Carbon X01 2016 (Trail)
    Trek Slash 9.8 29 2018 (Enduro)
    Monty M5 (Trials)

  89. #789
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrialsCartel View Post
    Could be...or maybe just a lot more GXs around making the problem more visible on those...I also predict is something more prone to happen while riding "enduro" as opposed to XC, as the snapping always happens during a pedal sprint going down after a rough bit.....(rough bit misaligns chain off pulley, one pedals hard to jump or gain speed...and snap)
    Have you ever seen/heard of this happening on a hardtail?

  90. #790
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    Apologies if this is old news, but according to a Fezzari new bike PR, there will be a lower cost Eagle (below GX). It's in the Comp bike spec: https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/04/18...mountain-bike/

  91. #791
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    Thanks for sharing the link

  92. #792
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    Quote Originally Posted by sturge View Post
    Has anyone else had similar issues?
    Have the debris gods just decided to pick on me?

    Yes, same issue here. Little sticks love to jam between my lower pulley and chain, has happened multiple times since I went Eagle.

    Totally ruined my race this weekend. Stick wedged, I jammed on the brakes, yanked it out, shifting all out of whack, 2 miles later broke the chain. Very frustrating

    GX chain and GX RD on X01 cassette for reference

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