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  1. #1
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    sram cassette wobbles on hub. Is this normal ?

    Hi Guys,

    I have a question. I bought a sram 990 cassette a while back from my LBS, and took my wheel in because they offered to put it on. After they switched cassettes I noticed that I could wiggle the cassette a little side to side, and told them it doesn't fit right. They said all cassettes are supposed to move a little so that they don't bind. Now I'm thinking the cassette should be rock solid, because otherwise it will start chewing up the hub.

    Was I duped ? ...or were they right.

  2. #2
    Paste eater
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    Um no, your cassette should not move. It's likley just loose.

  3. #3
    Former Bike Wrench
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    The cassette should be tight on the FH Body...it's not unusual for the FH Body to have a little wobble on some hubs, but the cassette should be tight.

  4. #4
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    No it shouldnt. You probably just need to tighten the lock ring on the cassette.
    C-DALE FLASH 29 Carbon 2 (19.6 lbs)
    C-DALE BB1

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1-bar
    No it shouldnt. You probably just need to tighten the lock ring on the cassette.
    certain hub and cassette combos will have some play. However, I wheel/bike should never be sent out like this. Take it back and ask them to check again, and add a spacer if needed (assuming its purely side to side, and not freehub body play)

  6. #6
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    Don't totally overlook/disregard the freehub body being loose though. I had one come loose on me last year at a 24 hour race. It was a pain, I ended up using a spare wheel, because tightening the freehub body is an easy, but somewhat involved/time consuming project, depending on the hub.

    What kind of hub is it?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    The cassette should be tight on the FH Body...it's not unusual for the FH Body to have a little wobble on some hubs, but the cassette should be tight.
    +1 play between the cassette and body is a completely different problem than freehub body play on the hub. You need to first determine which you're dealing with.

    One easy test is to use a tire lever or screwdriver to try to gently pry apart adjacent loose cogs on the cassette. If there's any excess space this will verify it and then you'll need to either tighten the lock ring, or add a spacer so the lock ring can properly secure the cassette.

    If it's freehub body to hub play, that may be a characteristic you've never noticed before, or might need to be adjusted out, depending on your hub.

    If you're still unsure, either try your old cassette and see if it's the same, or add a spacer temporarily just to verify whether it makes a difference or not.
    fb
    www.chain-L.com

    The key to solving any problem is to understand and address the underlying cause.

  8. #8
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    Hey guys,

    Many thanks to all. The free hub is tight. It seems the cassette can't be tightened enough to keep it from slightly wobbling back and forth on my Shimano XT hub. I tried the old XT cassette and it's tight, so maybe it's an issue with the Sram. I may need a spacer to get it tight.

    I actually just ordered a custom cog set from Sheldon Brown for my Pugsley. It's 14,15,17,19,21,24,27,30,34. That will give me 17 to 84 gear inches on my Middleburn 20,30,40 crankset. I don't need 11,12, or even 13. I like more useful ratios like 14-34 for my Pugs anyway, so I'll see how they work out.

    Thanks again to all who posted. I really appreciate your help.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by suba
    Hey guys,

    Many thanks to all. The free hub is tight. It seems the cassette can't be tightened enough to keep it from slightly wobbling back and forth on my Shimano XT hub. I tried the old XT cassette and it's tight, so maybe it's an issue with the Sram. I may need a spacer to get it tight.
    Not may, you definitely need a spacer. Cassettes and threadless headsets have one thing in common. Both systems require that the outer part extend beyond the inner so that that lockring or topcap bears on the outer compressing it, and does not bottom out on the inner. If the lockring bottoms out, you need a spacer, and usually it's added behind the cassette. Get the thinnest one that does the job.

    If the cassette doesn't extend beyond the freehub body add a spacer and your problem is solved.
    Last edited by FBinNY; 03-01-2010 at 08:01 AM.
    fb
    www.chain-L.com

    The key to solving any problem is to understand and address the underlying cause.

  10. #10
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    ok, the hub looks like the problem. I thought it was tight but I can wiggle it slightly. I turned the axle nut a few turn to see if the hub would stop wiggling, but no change. I tried three different cassette and all the same. They all wiggle back and forth about 1/16".

    My question is should the cassette ( and hub ) be rock solid and not wiggle PERIOD, or do most move a little bit. Also, can the hub be tightened by turning the axle nut.

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