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  1. #1
    I can't weld
    Reputation: Indiefab's Avatar
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    Show pics of your 1x9 setup

    It's the wave of the future. Simple, reliable, lighter. It has made me a better rider since I don't worry about getting my chain to drop into the granny gear on climbs. I just pick a line and hammer. It makes me stronger and more efficient without the knee-busting efforts of a singlespeed. Without the extra rings I can run a shorter chain and get a lot less chainslap. And there is nothing I hate more than trying to get a front derailleur to stop rubbing.

    I built this up over a few months by scrounging for good deals on lightly used parts on Ebay and buying OEM take-offs from JensonUSA. I got my hydroformed aluminum Planet X frame, King headset and Thompson seatpost from Ebay for $220 total. So far I've bought every part except the fork and wheels for ~$700. Retail would have been over $1500. I should end up saving about a grand by building it myself. I built it like this because I'm north of 200# and ride the very rocky and rooted trails at Turkey Mountain in Tulsa, so durability was a priority.

    Truvativ Hussefelt crank, 32T with aluminum bashguard, 22T removed. JensonUSA takeoff- $69
    Truvativ DHLT BB, 113x68. JensonUSA takeoff - $19
    SRAM PC-991 chain, solid pin. JensonUSA pricematch - $26
    SRAM X-7 rear shifter, JensonUSA takeoff - $30 for pair. Would have liked the X.0, just needed something to work with the X.0 derailleur for now. Still works great.
    SRAM PG990 11-34T cassette, the new red one. New in box from Ebay - $75
    SRAM X.0 Long Cage derailleur. Barely used on Ebay - $100
    Nokon cable housing ~$45 for front & rear, BlueSky Cycling
    Jagwire teflon coated cables, BlueSky
    NGear Jumpstop - $9 at LBS - absolutely necessary unless you enjoy stopping every 5 minutes to put chain back on the chainring.



    Now let's see your setups and tell us why you chose your components.

  2. #2
    Mantis, Paramount, Campy
    Reputation: Shayne's Avatar
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    How About 1x8?

    44T chainring and 12-25 cassette all Campy drivetrain.

    I had to run it 1x for a while while I was waiting for replacement chainrings. Middle rings are tough to come by. It wasn't much of a climber but but it was a good warm up for cyclocross (ie having to run up steep climbs).
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  3. #3
    I can't weld
    Reputation: Indiefab's Avatar
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    44x25 low gear?

    Wouldn't that rub bad?

    just looking at that makes my knees hurt.

  4. #4
    Mantis, Paramount, Campy
    Reputation: Shayne's Avatar
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    Not That Bad

    It's on par with the gearing most of the SS crowd runs.
    44-25 = 1.76:1
    2:1 is fairly standard SS gearing

    What do you mean 'rub bad' ?
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  5. #5
    I can't weld
    Reputation: Indiefab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shayne

    What do you mean 'rub bad' ?
    When you're in the big ring in the front and back; it usually stretches the chain to the max and creates an extreme angle across the gears. It wouldn't be as bad with a 25T in the rear as it would with a 32T.

  6. #6
    Mantis, Paramount, Campy
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    Well Technically....

    ...it would be the same. The 25T and 32T would be in the same position on the cassette body so the angle would be equal.

    However I ran a shorter BB temporarily with the single ring. This shifted the 44T in where the middle ring would be therefore giving me a pretty good chainline and allwing the use of all 8 cogs.
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  7. #7
    mechmann_mtb
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    I went 1X9 a while back and love it. 05 Specialized Enduro Expert...

    Extralite 30T CR
    Spot Brand Ringguard
    N-Gear Jumpstop
    XT Cranks (tuned)
    XT Med Cage RD (Tuned with Ti and XTR parts)
    XT 11-34 cassette
    Sram PC-99 chain
    Crank Bros 2xTi pedals
    Answer Pro Taper carbon riser bar
    FSA XC115 stem
    ODI Oury grips
    LX shifter pod (tuned)
    Juicy 7 brakes (stock)
    Chris King/Mavic 819 wheels
    Fox 36R Talas (stock)

    new rear shock should be in the mail (DHX Air) because my 5th Element died this past weekend

    everything on my bike was chosen to reduce weight or increase strength. i weigh 200lbs and ride hard, but climb LOTS. going up then going down is what we do so, light to go up, strong for fast hard decents. i freaking hate FD's and i hate trying to tune them. besides the frame looks so much cleaner now. i only own one bike so it has to do everything for me.









    Last edited by mechmann_mtb; 01-19-2006 at 10:29 PM.

  8. #8
    I can't weld
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    That's a sweet setup. What's your total weight?

  9. #9
    mechmann_mtb
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    she is still a bit heavy depending on tires. just above 30lbs with Kenda Cortez 2.4's. she is a bit heavier right now with a Kenda BG 2.35 on front with a Maxxis High Roller 2.35 UST tubeless on the rear (don't know exact weight).

    i could drop more weight by milling/drilling the ring guard or tuning the right shifter (i did a bunch of grinding and stuff on the left one that came off as an experiment and lost 60g or so). the seat is rather heavy as well as the grips, but i sort of like their functionality. longer seat lets me move my weight around on the climbs and the grips have a really nice solid feel to them.

    i like your setup too. i would probably have a lot of pinch flats if it weren't for my 6" of rear travel though!

    i do hope to build a new bike this year. i hope to get a 29er (with full gears) for when i ride with the cardio freaks. it seems that riding with those guys with this bike is a bit of a handicap they all have carbon framed super light fully geared XC machines. needless to say i struggle to keep up with them on the climbs and fire road ascents. (i make up some time going down though)

  10. #10
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    Been riding this for over 2 years now. I've only dropped the chain a handful of times and it has always been in a crash, never while riding.
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    Happy Trails...

  11. #11
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    Forgot to mention 36T non-ramped chainring, 11-34 cassette. I live and ride in Colorado and have never run out of gears. Love 1x9 so much that I've convinced my friend to convert on his new build.
    Happy Trails...

  12. #12
    Meh.
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    Jump stop won't work with my frame. There's a weld right where it needs to clamp on.

    Deore shifter
    XTR cables and housing
    XTR rear derailleur
    XTR 11-34 cassette
    Truvativ DHLT BB
    Bontrager Big Earl cranks
    E-13 Guide-ring 36t chainring - no ramps or pins with a .5mm step
    Blackspire 1/2" Lexan C4 bashguard
    MRP
    Wipperman Connex 1x9 chain

    <P><IMG style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" alt="" src="http://x3b.xanga.com/656b1a744453029625792/b20733232.jpg"></P>
    <P><IMG style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" alt="" src="http://x3e.xanga.com/130b317bc623229628881/b20735494.jpg"></P>

    Here's the spare parts build on the Haro Escape 8.2

    Deore shifter
    SRAM PG 960 11-32 cassette
    SRAM PG 960 chain
    LX rear derailleur if I can find it in my parts box, otherwise it keeps the Deore
    Cable housing has since been replaced with XTR housing
    32t chainring, flipped so the chain doesn't drop
    Shimano BB
    Bontrager Comp cranks
    MRP bashguard
    Hacked up LX front derailleur to keep the chain from dropping

    <P><IMG style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" alt="" src="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL778/2793545/7892876/126041296.jpg"></P>
    <P><IMG style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" alt="" src="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL778/2793545/7892876/126041297.jpg"></P>
    <P><IMG style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" alt="" src="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL778/2793545/7892876/126041152.jpg"></P>

  13. #13
    Dirt Whore
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    Heres my 05 Cannondale Prophet. I upgraded my crankset to the Shimano XT and decided it was time to give a Bash gaurd a try, while I was at it i took the Front D of and ditched the granny ring figureing it was time to get strong. The bashgaurd has allowed me to do a lot more, it is so fun to crash over large logs. The plastic E.thirteen slides ride over the logs, very cool. So far i have been doing allright without the granny gear.

    I used the Jumpstop, the the chain has held on pretty well



  14. #14
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    nmnmnm
    Last edited by scrublover; 03-29-2007 at 09:46 AM.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  15. #15
    tmp
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    I have a SC Superlight 1x9 with an old Raceface taper crank and Spot 34t ring, don't use a Jump Spot and chain drop has not been a problem on this bike for almost 3 years. My old heckler needed the JS or the chain would not stay put.
    Really like the extra ground clearence and clean look of 1X, and I never used the big or small rings anyway.

  16. #16
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    Loving' the 1x Set-Up!!

    I converted my Chester to a 1x8 set-up. Removed the smallest cog from the cassette because the Boone chainring I am using was built to sit in the 'outer' ring position and by adding a spacer behind the largest tooth, I was able to improve the chainline. My Smoothie is set-up as a 2x9, likely to also loose the smallest cog to lessen the cross chain effect. Here's the complete build.

    Matt Chester Frame ( I believe the only vertical dropout Ute he ever built)
    Fox Vanilla RLC fork
    CK Ti headset
    Moots Ti Seatpost and Riser Bar
    Seven Cycles Ti stem
    Wheel set (f) Phil Wood Sl disc hub/supecomp/Dt 4.1d
    (r) CK Classic/supercomp/Mavic 3.1
    Phil Wood Ti BB
    Avid BB-7 (f) brake Avid Ultimate Vee (r) with Avid Ultimate Levers
    Boone Ti SS Chainring (31-tooth)
    Cycle Dynamics Ti 13-34 cassette
    RF Turbine Cranks
    X.0 Rear Derailleur and Twist Shifter
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    MTBDad
    MCM #47.867

    "Freedom has a scent like the top of a newborn baby's head" - Bono

  17. #17
    I can't weld
    Reputation: Indiefab's Avatar
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    You win

    Hands down, that's got to be the most beautiful bike ever to run 1x9.
    Awesome.

  18. #18
    Play all day
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    Here's mine. It's an '05 Voodoo Bizango. I picked up a 32T salsa chainring from my local REI and got an NGear jumpstop, and I got a bashguard off of ebay. I run a 11-34 cassette. It rides like a dream and since converting it 9 months ago it's been maintenance free. I hated that front der.
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  19. #19
    mechmann_mtb
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    wow.. both of those last two are very beautiful bikes. nicely done.

    MTB dad... i can't believe that you don't have problems dropping the chain, but whatever you did to keep it in place, congrats. it is so sweet and clean without the N-gear. do ride hard through rock gardens and such?

  20. #20
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    I am running a...

    jump stop, just not the guard. The chainring is a Boone SS ring, so it is unramped and the teeth appear to be slightly taller than a 'standard' ring as they were never designed to allow for the chain to move. The removal of one cog and the subsequent moving of the rest of the cassette 'outward' seems to keep the chainline pretty straight. I don;t ride a lot in the way of rock gardens here on Long Island, but we do have our share of root gardens that will chatter your fillings loose and knock wood (knuckle to head) no issues yet. The RD is a medium cage and I run the chain as short as possible. In the process of planning my next 'project' which will be another 1x8, probably a softtail.
    MTBDad
    MCM #47.867

    "Freedom has a scent like the top of a newborn baby's head" - Bono

  21. #21
    mechmann_mtb
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    i too run the med length RD with a pretty short chain. i bet that boone ring helps lots. anyway you have a super sweet bike! thanks for posting pics.

    i am actually thinking maybe my next build should be a 1X9. i am looking at getting one of the Niner S.I.R.9 frames. currently agonizing over color and fork choices
    Last edited by mechmann_mtb; 01-25-2006 at 12:21 PM.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
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    Boy there are some nice setups in here! Kind of making me wish I had set mine up as a 1x9 instead of a 2x9. Maybe that will be a project for next winter..........
    This space for rent.

  23. #23
    surly inbred
    Reputation: TroutBum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover
    love the clean look, and feel of it. nice and silent up front...
    feel the same way... I'm really enjoying my 1x8


  24. #24
    mechmann_mtb
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    so i asked my LBS to get the pricing for my next potential 1X9. the S.I.R.9 in red. i want to do a red/white/blue theme. blue king hubs, red spoke nipples, red frame, red/white/blue king headset. i need to find more white parts and maybe some more blue bits (might have to look into getting some custom colors on the fork )

    originally i was thinking that i could ride the 29er as a full geared bike, but i have been riding the wifes bike (05 stumpy with full compliment of gears) and i don't do well with the granny gear. even on the looooong steep climb called "Cardiac" i ride better in the middle ring than when i try to spin the granny gear. maybe it is due to riding my bike 1X9, maybe my physique isn't good for spinning.

    initially i will build it up as a SS and add the gears when money is available.

  25. #25
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    Lesson Learned vis-a-vis Tempting...

    the fates! Dropped the chain for the first time this weekend after proclaiming so authoritatively here that I have no probelsm with chain drops. Oh well, I guess I'll just keep my big mouth shut!!


    MTB dad... i can't believe that you don't have problems dropping the chain, but whatever you did to keep it in place, congrats. it is so sweet and clean without the N-gear. do ride hard through rock gardens and such?
    MTBDad
    MCM #47.867

    "Freedom has a scent like the top of a newborn baby's head" - Bono

  26. #26
    mechmann_mtb
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    MTBDad...

    that totally sucks! i am sorry that i had to go and jinx your perfect record. your bike is really pretty without anything on the outside of the ring. a quick fix would be to throw a Spot Brand ring guard on the outside. the best fix for you would probably be a device similar to what was shown previously where the jumpstop captures the inside, top, and outside of the chain. a nice AL billet piece might not take away from your aesthetics too much.

  27. #27
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    hey, i just pulled the FD off my bike...it feels great!...i'm just keeping my 32T ring...i've got a Heim guide but not the jumpstop or bashguard...think i'll be ok...man, my bike looks sweet...wish i knew how to post these pix...clean, clean ,clean and right
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  28. #28
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    I finished going to a 1x9 about a week, but haven't took it on any rides besides urban Been raining foreverrrrrrrr. I'll get pics manana.

  29. #29
    bang
    Reputation: Cyco-Dude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamantane
    ...wish i knew how to post these pix...clean, clean ,clean and right
    mtbr provides all of its members with space to store bike photos. near the top of the page there is a link "upload photos". your image needs to be within the size limit (250 kb). click the "browse" button to upload the pic from your hard drive to mtbr. then click on the pic in your gallery, copy the image url, and use the forums image code. for example:
    Code:
    if you already have the pic up on a website somewhere, you do not need to do this. just copy the image url and use the forums image code (you can also click on the small picture of a mountain and sun above where you type, if you don't want to enter the tags manually). make sure you click the "preview post" button to make sure everything is ok befor you submit your post.

    an alternative way to upload files (usually pictures), is to click on the "upload images" button in the "attach files" box. this is located below of where you type. easy as pie. eating pie i guess. i couldn't make a pie to save my life.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude
    mtbr provides all of its members with space to store bike photos. near the top of the page there is a link "upload photos". your image needs to be within the size limit (250 kb). click the "browse" button to upload the pic from your hard drive to mtbr. then click on the pic in your gallery, copy the image url, and use the forums image code. for example:
    Code:
    if you already have the pic up on a website somewhere, you do not need to do this. just copy the image url and use the forums image code (you can also click on the small picture of a mountain and sun above where you type, if you don't want to enter the tags manually). make sure you click the "preview post" button to make sure everything is ok befor you submit your post.

    an alternative way to upload files (usually pictures), is to click on the "upload images" button in the "attach files" box. this is located below of where you type. easy as pie. eating pie i guess. i couldn't make a pie to save my life.
    alright..that was a great overview..wish they had that wrtten up somewhere...i will try it out..thanks again for the detailed descrition for dummies...i'll be referring to this post while learning
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  31. #31
    mechmann_mtb
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    it's not drivetrain related, but i was so excited about getting my bike back today i just had to post a pic of my new shock. can't wait to ride SJT this saturday on my 1X9!!!!!!!!!


  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jumpin_joe2u
    Been riding this for over 2 years now. I've only dropped the chain a handful of times and it has always been in a crash, never while riding.

    two question: 1) where did you get those low profile chainring bolts, and 2) where did you get that chainring roller guide, or is that scratch built

    thanks
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  33. #33
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamantane
    two question: 1) where did you get those low profile chainring bolts, and 2) where did you get that chainring roller guide, or is that scratch built

    thanks
    The chainring bolts are standard BMX equipment (any LBS should carry them). I have seen them also advertised online as "single speed chainring bolts."

    The chainguide was something I just scraped together with stuff I had in my basement junk hardware box, but it was inspired by a post that used to get a lot of talk here a few years ago. Some guy took some coins and made one that admittedly looks much nicer than mine, but mine was origionally intended as just a prototype (some prototypes last longer than others). Anyway, I had the benefit of having an "e-type" derrailleur bolt to fasten the chainguide to, but you should be able to easily alter one of those "jump-stop" thingies to function as the anchor to the seat tube.

    Think I found the pic that inspired me awhile back (sorry I don't recall who origionally posted it, so I can't give credit).
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    Happy Trails...

  34. #34
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    Alright here is mine. Due to weather, haven't took it on the trail yet But on Monday....
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by jumpin_joe2u
    The chainring bolts are standard BMX equipment (any LBS should carry them). I have seen them also advertised online as "single speed chainring bolts."

    The chainguide was something I just scraped together with stuff I had in my basement junk hardware box, but it was inspired by a post that used to get a lot of talk here a few years ago. Some guy took some coins and made one that admittedly looks much nicer than mine, but mine was origionally intended as just a prototype (some prototypes last longer than others). Anyway, I had the benefit of having an "e-type" derrailleur bolt to fasten the chainguide to, but you should be able to easily alter one of those "jump-stop" thingies to function as the anchor to the seat tube.

    Think I found the pic that inspired me awhile back (sorry I don't recall who origionally posted it, so I can't give credit).
    buff, i've got to make one of these...i like the fact that it is on top of the chain as well as side to side some what..i think i loose chain because the chain can rise up..but this overhead deal should keep it put...it would be interesting to also have one at the 6 o'clock position..but maybe that's overkill...but man, i jump and smack into stuff and blast through rocks...invariably loose the chain in these situations

    i've gone to my local lbs, the guys is older and doesn't know or care, keep telling me i come in asking for these he doesn't have...i though lbs guys loved bikes and how to solve problems with them

    anyway, thanks...maybe i should just get an MRP LRP
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  36. #36
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    Kiss

    I'm a huge fan of the "Keep It Simple Stupid" philosophy! I guess I don't see the need for all these bashrings AND jump-stops. I have no doubt that this method retains the chain, but it just seems like such overkill to me. Seems ridiculous to add so much stuff just to "simplify" to a 1x9 drivetrain. Don't get me wrong, if you live in an area where you tend to chew up your chainring, by all means use a bashring. But if you are just looking to keep your chain from coming off, there has to be a simpler way. Heck, before I constructed my little chainguide, I just used my regular ol' front derrailleur with great success (maybe it doesn't look as cool, but it worked flawlessly and had so much less......I don't know.......crap).

    Basically, I just don't understand how most of the general population runs 3X9 with a 42T or 44T chainring and doesn't destroy their chainrings, but when you go to a single 34T or 36T chainring suddenly everyone needs a bashring!? Is it just me or does this all seem like overcomplicating matters?

    I absolutely understand that some people's riding styles require bashrings....I'm not saying nobody should run one. I am just asking how many people are running bashrings combined with jump-stops, just to serve the purpose of chain retention.
    Happy Trails...

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by jumpin_joe2u
    I'm a huge fan of the "Keep It Simple Stupid" philosophy! I guess I don't see the need for all these bashrings AND jump-stops. I have no doubt that this method retains the chain, but it just seems like such overkill to me. Seems ridiculous to add so much stuff just to "simplify" to a 1x9 drivetrain. Don't get me wrong, if you live in an area where you tend to chew up your chainring, by all means use a bashring. But if you are just looking to keep your chain from coming off, there has to be a simpler way. Heck, before I constructed my little chainguide, I just used my regular ol' front derrailleur with great success (maybe it doesn't look as cool, but it worked flawlessly and had so much less......I don't know.......crap).

    Basically, I just don't understand how most of the general population runs 3X9 with a 42T or 44T chainring and doesn't destroy their chainrings, but when you go to a single 34T or 36T chainring suddenly everyone needs a bashring!? Is it just me or does this all seem like overcomplicating matters?

    I absolutely understand that some people's riding styles require bashrings....I'm not saying nobody should run one. I am just asking how many people are running bashrings combined with jump-stops, just to serve the purpose of chain retention.
    i think the idea of jumpstop and bash ring, is that the chain cannot derrail to the right or the left...i just mounted a jumpstop (without bashring) and i lost my chain a bunch coming down my favorite fireroad, the chain came off to the right as you'd expect. waiting for the bashring to show up at my doorstep, this bashring should hopefully elimanate the loss of chain. but your set up is very simple and cheap...so my bashring and jumpstop will eliminate left and right movement of the chain, but the chain can still rise up and possible over either the bashring or the jumpstop.

    i will find this out shortly...your systems prevent almost all movement of the chain, which is nice for such a simple design...need to be in thinking mode over buying mode
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude
    this may or may not matter, but a nice bashring (or spot chaingaurd) looks nice. nothing wrong with that i suppose. i do have a question for those of you using bashrings - does the chain rub the bashring at all while using the smaller cogs?
    Doesnt for me.

  39. #39
    bang
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    this may or may not matter, but a nice bashring (or spot chaingaurd) looks nice. nothing wrong with that i suppose. i do have a question for those of you using bashrings - does the chain rub the bashring at all while using the smaller cogs?

  40. #40
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    Despite the fact that I love my 1x9 bike, I still think the N-gear Jumpstop is way too fragile. I've already broken 2 of them. They're made way too light. I wish they would have added a little more material on the thing.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enduro_506
    Despite the fact that I love my 1x9 bike, I still think the N-gear Jumpstop is way too fragile. I've already broken 2 of them. They're made way too light. I wish they would have added a little more material on the thing.
    i just got one set up on my bike...where did yours break? same way? and could you figure out how they broke?
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamantane
    i just got one set up on my bike...where did yours break? same way? and could you figure out how they broke?
    I don't know how it happened, but one time the plastic broke and the other time the metal bent in a way it couldn't be bent back again. It happened during freeride applications.

    I do run a single speed specific 32T chainring by the way.

    But the jumpstops are so damn cheap, I will keep ordering them. I just love the 1x9 simplicity. Front derailleurs are satans work.

  43. #43
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    as far as having a ring guard, it is essential on my bike. i will see if i can get a picture of what my spot brand ring guard looks like after 5 months. it is pretty beat up. i do play around on boulders more than most people i guess...

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enduro_506
    Front derailleurs are satans work.
    Yeah they are, they make noise, and are a pain in the rear end to adjust

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattP.
    Yeah they are, they make noise, and are a pain in the rear end to adjust

    but they are a rudamentary chain guide...if that's all ya got
    "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006

  46. #46
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    The point I was trying to make is that lots of people appear to be using a bashring for the sole purpose of keeping the chain on their 1x9 setup. It amazes me that no mainstream retailers have come up with a simple retention device that would save lots of weight and just look so much cleaner.
    Happy Trails...

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattP.
    Doesnt for me.
    weird, your reply appears above mine instead of below it (where it should be, since i have posts linear, oldest first).

    i have a second question for you 1x9'ers - the chain is angled quite a bit when using the smallest and largest cogs, how does this affect drivetrain wear? granted, it's not as bad as the small-small or large-large combos in 3x9 setups, but....just wondering out loud.

  48. #48
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    Most of us are using the middle chainring position. Unless you've altered the stock chainline in some significant way, the middle chainring is usually designed to be able to reach all the rear gears without severe chain deflection.

  49. #49
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    i have a second question for you 1x9'ers - the chain is angled quite a bit when using the smallest and largest cogs, how does this affect drivetrain wear? granted, it's not as bad as the small-small or large-large combos in 3x9 setups, but....just wondering out loud.[/QUOTE]

    I completely understand your hesitation with regards to premature wear. I considered that before switching. Much to my relief, I have found that there has been very little difference in chain and cassette wear. I have seen no difference with the largest cog, but do see marginally more wear on the smallest cog. I chalk this up to excessive use more so than the angle of the chain. Realize that you will run that 11 or 12 cog far more often than you used to with a large ring available. I never used to run a small chainring, so I actually do almost all of my rides in the smallest 7 cogs (the largest two have simply become fallout gears). That could also explain why I have not noticed any additional wear to the large cog. To clarify, I run a 36T chainring with 11-34 cassette.
    Happy Trails...

  50. #50
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    i havn't noticed any severe wear on my drivetrain. i do keep up on my maintenance though. every week i make sure i clean my chain and relube it. i use mineral spirits and my air compressor to thoroughly clean the chain and then relube. i do a lot of climbing and spend quite a bit of time in the 34T cog. i figure if i had a XTR cassette the Ti cog might wear faster, so i stick to XT. I run an Xtralite 30T chainring.

    my Spot Brand ring guard does a great job of protecting my chainring. it isn't as beefy or as heavy as the big bashrings. it doesn't weigh much more than a stock XT big ring. it does perform double duty keeping my chain on, but primary duty is to keep my drivetrain working.

  51. #51
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    Update

    Well, the 1x9 passed the litmus test two weeks ago. Finished 15.5 miles at the annual 12 Miles of Hell at Fort Sill, OK, without a problem. I did a lot of pushing up the climbs, but not much more than I would have done if I had a super low granny gear. Climbed past a lot of guys with 3x9s too.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by jumpin_joe2u
    The point I was trying to make is that lots of people appear to be using a bashring for the sole purpose of keeping the chain on their 1x9 setup. It amazes me that no mainstream retailers have come up with a simple retention device that would save lots of weight and just look so much cleaner.
    Rohloff did. but it's spendy! $60! ouch! (I want one)


  53. #53
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    I use a 36T to 11-34. I just switched from 42T this week and find it really suits my riding. The 36T has a kind of 'natural' feel to it; I can plod along in comfortably in 7,8 or 9 and then put a big spurt on without feeling like I'm climbing over the big ring. I've lost a little at the top end but, to be honest, for the few occaisions I have to hit a long stretch of road, it just isn't worth it. It still gives me plenty to work with on slow, technical stuff, too. I may try a 38T sometime, out of curiosity, but I'm really feeling comfortable with this set up.
    Anyways, drivetrain comprises: DMR Saturn 36T and XTR (CN-7701) chain, kept together with a Truvativ BoxGuide; XTR mech and XT cassette. I've also kept the Avid Whateveritscalled because whatever (Shimano) mech I've used it's always made it work that little bit better. I swear these things should be one of the first things anyone should 'upgrade' to.

    1x9.jpg
    Last edited by SteveUK; 09-10-2006 at 04:59 AM.

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  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by finger51
    Rohloff did. but it's spendy! $60! ouch! (I want one)

    Spendy - but worth it in my experience so far.

    I just got rid of those crap truvativ stylo outboard bearing model cranks, and replaced with these. I greased everything, tightened, etc and could not get them to stop creaking - and they creaked alot!
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  55. #55
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    I'mm definitively moving to a 1X9 setup when I get my bike. There is absolutely no need for 27 gears, IMO.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitebread
    I'mm definitively moving to a 1X9 setup when I get my bike. There is absolutely no need for 27 gears, IMO.
    Agreed. I love my 1x9 drivetrain
    2013 Cannondale F29 2
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  57. #57
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    Anyone been trying it the other way!? 3x1?! It's great, climb, cruise and hammer. Takes awhile to really get the gearing worked out tho.
    TV sucks, ride your bike!

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enduro_Man
    Anyone been trying it the other way!? 3x1?! It's great, climb, cruise and hammer. Takes awhile to really get the gearing worked out tho.
    Dealing with a front derailluer AND only having 3 gear combinations? Seems like a waste of time if you ask me man.

  59. #59
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    2x9 to 1x9

    After reading this thread I decided to convert my 2x9 to 1x9. It runs great. Quiet, no front der. rub. I run my 32T all the time anyway. I just have to get the N-Gear Jump Stop.
    I might not need it though, 90% of my riding is Urban, very little XC. Thanks Everyone!
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  60. #60
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    this is just what I was looking for!

    I did it by accident, I drilled out the cable stop to run full cable housing and realized too late there was none on the seat tube. Oops, so I have been using the middle ring. It's my commuter so I'm trying to keep it cheep/parts I have on hand. I want to get a bigger ring; I’m guessing that is a 32, so maybe 34-36?? I haven't dropped the chain yet but it' s only been a few days. I have an old big ring I was going to grind the teeth off of for a outer guard/guide, hadn’t thought about the inside, maybe cut down a front derailer. Any suggestions?
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  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dms1818
    After reading this thread I decided to convert my 2x9 to 1x9. It runs great. Quiet, no front der. rub. I run my 32T all the time anyway. I just have to get the N-Gear Jump Stop.
    I might not need it though, 90% of my riding is Urban, very little XC. Thanks Everyone!
    Are you running a SRAM shifter with a shimano XT rear derailleur? I didn't think that was possible?
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  62. #62
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    SRAM/Shimano

    SRAM Attack and Rocket shifters work with Shimano rear ders.

  63. #63
    MONKEYMAN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dms1818
    SRAM Attack and Rocket shifters work with Shimano rear ders.
    good to know. Not too happy with the way my XT shifter sits next to my Avid lever. maybe it'll get replaced some day.

    Here's my 1x9 29'r in progress:
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  64. #64
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    a slingshot with rear suspension and a rigid front fork? That's unique.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Indiefab
    a slingshot with rear suspension and a rigid front fork? That's unique.

    yeah it's a weird bike for sure. Hell of a lot of fun to ride though. I don't think it falls under the 'rear suspension' category though- more of a Cross Country Freak Machine, yeah that sounds right.
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  66. #66
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    '06 ML 1x9

    forgive the stem spacer hell, still tweeking the front end (fresh build)...

    -------------------------------------------------------------------
    * Bottom Bracket: Truvativ GigaPipe 118x73
    * Cranks: Truvativ Hussefelt 175mm
    * Chainring: Truvativ 32t
    * Chain: Shimano XT 9spd
    * BashGuard: Goldtooth Mafia
    * Inner Guard: Black Spire Blackguard
    * Cassette: Shimano XT 9spd 11-34
    * Front Derailleur:
    * Front Shifter:
    * Rear Derailleur: XT medium cage
    * Rear Shifter: XT black
    * Shift Cable: Shimano XTR gray
    -------------------------------------------------------------------

    more pics and specs in this thread

    .
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  67. #67
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    Bash ring size?

    I run a 32T on my 1x9 with a 34 Bash ring. What is the sizes of your inner and outer rings? Where did you get it? Clean set-up. Good Job.

  68. #68
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    Thanks. The outer is a Goldtooth 38t and the inner is a Blackspire 36t, bought both here. Wanted to go a bit bigger to avoid using a clamp chainguide, works well no drops as of yet, but just a few rides so only time will tell.

  69. #69
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    I'm down w/that!

    I thought I was goint to start my own thread. All I use is the 32T center ring w/8 sp. The outer ring is all bent and trashed and the smaller ring I never use either. I want to drop both, I guess I'll need the "Single speed chainring bolts". I want to drop the FD, don't like the way it rubs in hi gears. I like some of the bashring/chainguides. I found both from Gamut "G25" 32-34T it is plastic and has good reviews. It is $. I understand the chainring, RD and cassett get changed w/chain. I could use a 9 sp w/34 T would give me a little higher/lower. What would be an effective and cost effective upgrade? I'm thinking 2004 would be a good year to upgrade to. Hopefully they would want newer upgrades and I can benifit. I was all excited about upgrading my 97 DB, # 26.5 new. The drivetrain looks orignal Shim STX RC. The wheels are ancient # 11.5 complete. total # 34.5 After the wheel #s, I'm a little discouraged right now. Any thing else I should know about going
    to 1-9 ? Any idea how much # could be lost? TIA

    Ricisan

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover
    generic 30t ring, 9spd sram pc-69 chain (i think), n-gear jumpstop with an alu bolt
    when this ring goes, i'll likely grab one of the surly stainless 30t rings.

    Hey Scrub~

    I notice your n-gear in upside down- was this intended or do you wrench while drinking whiskey? (as I sometimes do)
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  71. #71
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    And here it is completed:
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  72. #72
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    Converted, will be switching over this week-end. The tracks I ride I never leave the middle ring anyways.
    Thanks everyone

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by finger51
    Hey Scrub~

    I notice your n-gear in upside down- was this intended or do you wrench while drinking whiskey? (as I sometimes do)
    it works either direction, or at least it has for me, so i don't sweat whatever way it's on.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  74. #74
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    Cool-blue Rhythm my 1x9 chameleon

    Well, the chameleon has transformed again. I have been running SS quite a while now. I need one bike with gears for the eff of it. It's pretty much built up with deore components. Shifter,derailer,hubs are deore. The 1x9 part.
    up front: race face bashguard
    salsa 32t ring no ramps/pins
    n-gear no jump(new bolt)
    Rear: shimano deore 9spd(11-32t) casette on deore hub.
    Running a dura-ace chain. New drop-out hangers from santa cruz.\

    All is good so far after a quickie neighborhood ride.
    The one thing about my n-gear(largest one) would not fit with the bolt provided. I went to home depot a came out with a 2" long one. Had to add some small washers as to not dig into the plastic. Lined it up with a penny and works well.
    One thing i notice with 1 ring and chainline. My chainline is spot on ctr ring to ctr cog. I guess being so anal with SS chainline i have to say the range of the largest cog in back seems pretty deflected. Looking at bikes with front derailers is the same. My only concern is dropping the chain in the 32x32 if i need to use it. Is this an issue with your guys set-up, or not?
    Here's some pics.
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    Last edited by E !; 09-27-2006 at 04:57 PM.

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by E !
    The one thing about my n-gear(largest one) would not fit with the bolt provided. I went to home depot a came out with a 2" long one. Had to add some small washers as to not dig into the plastic. Lined it up with a penny and works well.
    good idea! mine didn't fit either- being the lazy bastard that I am- I dropped the plastic band in boiling hot water and muscled it on while still malleable. worked without the trip to the HW store.
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  76. #76
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    This is one of them.

    Here is another. It has a suspension fork now, however.
    I am building a 29er right now that morphs from SS to 1x9. It never has a front derailleur in any case.

  77. #77
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    I'm going building a 4X/DJ bike with a 1x9 drivetrain and have no clue what size BB I need.

    I'm using a BB mount Truvativ Box Guide and ISIS Truvativ Hussefelt cranks. The bike a 135mm rear end.

    Can someone give me some insight as to what size BB I'll need?

  78. #78
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    My 1X9. Tricky to set-up w/ the crankset particulars, but worth it everyday.
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    Last edited by JimmyJaymz; 10-18-2006 at 08:01 AM.

  79. #79
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    STILL trying to locate an e.13 32 special for this setup. (32T front ring)

    I derail often. but other than that slight issue, I love the 9 speed.
    2013 Cannondale F29 2
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  80. #80
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    FisherCraig...

    cheap fix and it WORKS. buy an N-gear jumpstop. they work really well. the Rohloff guide is great too, but expensive and needs customization for some chainlines.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by mechmann_mtb
    FisherCraig...

    the Rohloff guide is great too, but expensive and needs customization for some chainlines.
    Is it less likely to need modification for a 1x8 setup?
    Also , Im planning on getting a 36t raceface dh chainring. Will it be thicker than chainrings designed to be shifted? Or will I need some of those problem solver single chainring bolts?

  82. #82
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    Schwinn Homegrown - Race Face Deus Cranks, Race Face Bash Guard, 32T Blackspire Mono Veloce Ring, XT 11-34 Cassette, X.0 Shifter and RD, N-Gear Jump Stop


  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by mechmann_mtb
    FisherCraig...

    cheap fix and it WORKS. buy an N-gear jumpstop. they work really well. the Rohloff guide is great too, but expensive and needs customization for some chainlines.
    I heard though that the Rohloff can jam your chain though, (or maybe that was another product, but I am almost positive its that one) I don't really have a problem trying it, but the 32 special just looks so perfect
    2013 Cannondale F29 2
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  84. #84
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    Rohloff requires that the mounting spacers be cut down to meet most normal chain lines. In stock form the spacers are just too long and place the guide too far away from the seat tube. The N-Gear provides an easy adjustment of this distance. My wife's new bike has a Rohloff and she has not had any issues with "jamming the chain" yet but i am sure that if setup wrong, any guide can cause problems. I have been using N-gear Jumpstops on my bikes for over a year now. They are good, but they do have their limitations. I have broken one of them, but to be honest it was being used in the wrong application. The N-gear can still have a chain drop, I have done it quite a few times but it does require mad skillz.

    I took a picture of the wife's setup today and will post it later if i get a chance.

  85. #85
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    here's the pic.



    and one of her suffering today..


  86. #86
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    Why not a 42 front chain ring?

    32 sounds kinda slow. Dont you spin that out on steep downhills?

    "Hey, wait for me"

  87. #87
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    It is getting switched out for a 34. The 32 was shipped in error so I thought I would try it out.

    With a 42 climbing anything long would be impossible, but the 34 should give me the gear ratios that I need without spinning out on downhills.

  88. #88
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    i've been involved in several discussions about downhill speed when using 1x9. i don't have any issues keeping up on downhills. in fact, on most group rides i am among the front runners on the way down, even when i am running a HT and others are FS...

    no need to pedal when gravity assists. learn to pump the terrain and where to unweight and fly over stuff. much faster than trying to pedal.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ikstej24
    It is getting switched out for a 34. The 32 was shipped in error so I thought I would try it out.

    With a 42 climbing anything long would be impossible, but the 34 should give me the gear ratios that I need without spinning out on downhills.

    What do single speeders do? 42 front ring and 34 in the back, 1.24 would be significantly lower than 2 on a single speed.

    If you investigate standard 2X9, with 29 and 44 in front and 34 in back you would only loose 3 of the lowest gears.

  90. #90
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    I have a favorite race course that runs on the same property as Sea Otter, CCCX, and I think I could run a 40-42 big ring with 11-34 and fly up the easy climbs no problem in this race maybe. I’m going to have to go test, woo hoo.

    I think 32 big would be to slow in a race, and even if you are not racing what is the point of being lightweight and simple if you are not going to go fast up hill or down hill? Is that last fast downhill fire road where 10 people pass you when you do not have the proper gearing.

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killroy
    ...
    I think 32 big would be to slow in a race, and even if you are not racing what is the point of being lightweight and simple if you are not going to go fast up hill or down hill?
    ...
    it all depends on what you ride. i like the long technical climbs (as in miles), so although you might start with some speed going up, it won't last for long and you need more low end grunt than what a 40-42 can give you

    but sure if you've only got those little baby hills that you can just fly right up and over, then i would probably run a taller gear as well

  92. #92
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    Killroy i guess you have the ideal setup.

    there are some places that i haven't ridden yet, so i guess maybe you are more experienced than i am.

    i ride a 32t front with 11-34 cassette on all my bikes. simple and light just makes sense. a great engineering principle, never make things more complicated than need be. K.I.S.S.

    i have ridden 30+mile 6000' climbing rides and some pretty technical terrain. my experience is very limited in that i have only ridden in california, utah, nevada, colorado and arizona. i have ridden some different terrains such as slickrock, decomposing granite, crested butte loam, red rock, sand etc.

    i don't race, except with my friends for bragging rights. racing for bowling trophies is much more serious than i intend to get. i don't go too fast uphill, but then again i ride with other people and making them feel slow is never my intention (although my wife feels slow no matter what). i guess since my gearing is so limited i can't go too fast downhill either, but it hasn't stopped me from going fast enough to have fun and scare myself at will. maybe when i am traveling down a 6" wide singletrack at 30 mph i need to be able to pedal, ignorance is bliss.

  93. #93
    Master of the Face Plant
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    I am considering converting this bike to a 1 by 9. The horizontal dropout may cause some issues but this frame is nice and stiff.
    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3418922"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/9/25914440697.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge."></a>

  94. #94
    mechmann_mtb
    Guest
    you can make the horizonal drops work.

    get a Saint or Hone RD and you will be set. any RD that mounts to the axle instead of a dropout will work. a while back someone said that 06 Hone stuff was getting blown out cheap, but i couldn't find any. was thinking of doing a similar 1x9 setup on my wife's Surly 1X1.

  95. #95
    mtbr member
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    Guys,

    I'm gonna go the 1x9 route also. I'm gonna do this on a new Mojo when it comes in and I want to see if I can use a short cage XO derailleur with a 11-34 cassette. Would this work or would I have to use a Medium length cage? I'd like to get the chain as short as I can to help alleviate chain slap. Might even consider a 11-32 cassette if I have to go to that.

    Cheers,

    Brian

  96. #96
    neutiquam erro
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    Brian,

    Short cage will most definitely work (I use one). For a very good explanation why, check out Speedub.Nate's words (second post in thread link below):

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...18770#poststop

    I run a 32t up front with a 11/34 cassette. That seems to be the most common, all-purpose 1x9 setup to handle typical XC (non-racing). I love it! Don't miss anyting at all on the granny or big ring.

    Cheers, Chris

  97. #97
    mtbr member
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    Thanks Chris,

    It's gonna be fun. Have to find an outer chain guide for the big ring too. Don't need a bash guard and would like it to be light.

    Cheers,

    Brian

  98. #98
    mechmann_mtb
    Guest
    Prorallye...

    try looking at the Spot Brand ring guards. they are light and come in many sizes/configurations. www.bikeman.com carries them.

  99. #99
    mtbr member
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    Just finished putting it together a few minutes ago, shakedown ride should be Saturday.

    '05 Medium Frame, CK Headset, '05 Marzocchi AM 3 130mm (air)
    Hayes Mags 8" Fr, 6"R
    Wheels & Pedals are spares from my Haro FS...really need some new wheels.
    Nevegal 2.35 Rear, Blue Groove 2.35 Front
    Hussefelts, DH BB, e13 bash, 32T chainring, N-Gear Jumpstop, PC971 w/ gold powerlink
    X.9 RD & Trigger
    Thomson X4 70mm stem, Deity Bars, ODI/Intense grips
    Thomson Seatpost, Titec El Norte seat

    After I work the bugs out I'm expecting it to be a fun ride.




  100. #100
    29er Geek
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    Jul 2006
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    '04 Trek liquid 30 Frame and Fox Talas RL
    Mavic Deetrax
    WTB Weirwolf 2.3's
    Race Face Diablous stem
    Answer Protaper Bars
    Avid BB7's
    Full metal Jacket housings
    Speed Dial 7 levers
    Manitou Sherman
    XT Cranks
    XT rear der
    SRAM powerlink chain

    When I first built it up I was running 2x9...tried 1x9 but no dice without a guide. Got the e13 SRS and ran a 32t XT ring with the 11-34 rear cassette. Just got a new bash and a Salsa 36t ring. When running 2x9 I was dropping the chain on even smaller jumps. All nice and dandy now.







    unityhandbuilt

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