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  1. #1
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    Shimano cassette a bit loose on rear cassette hub

    Hey guys!

    So last night i was going to clean the cassette on my specialized hardrock, after dismounting the cassette i felt it needed to be replaced because it was pretty worn down, so i was off to the store and got a new cassette of the same model as the original, a shimano CS-HG31-8.

    When installing the new cassette, i noticed it seemed to be just a slight bit bigger than the hub it sits mounted upon(freehub?), it moves noticeably arround the hub and the hub itself isnt moving, i put in the lockring that holds the cassette in place and it was still moving, but a bit less than before i put the lockring in there, but its still possible to jerk the cassette arround with your hands easily.

    The thing is, i checked out my old cassette, and it seems to be just the same way, its just the same and can be jerked arround a tiny bit.

    Now im woundering - is it suppose to be this way? I tried to go out for a short test ride, and it was kinda unsmooth when using some gears, something i didnt notice when using my old cassette that seems to be just like this one.

    //anymore

  2. #2
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    The cassette shouldn't move laterally on the freehub body--though most freehubs have a bit of play themselves, which can be perceived as the cassette moving.

    I would do two things: head back to the store, and buy a new chain to go with the cassette (if you haven't already) as they wear together, and grab a few 1mm cassette spacers. Take the cassette off, and put one spacer on, followed by the cassette, and see if it stops the wiggling. If it doesn't, add another, and if that doesn't do it, start investigating the actual freehub.

  3. #3
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    Ok, cause this casette seems to be able to move a bit even when the lockring sits there, and its not feeling very smooth in some gears, ill see if i can get some spacers and see what it does.

  4. #4
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    I went to the store and got one 1 mm spacer and put it behind the cassette, but it does not appear to do anything about the play between the cassette and hub, its still moving about as much when i thighten the lockring with the spacer behind the cassette.

    I also noticed the hub that the cassette seems to move a bit when i push it horizontally (when the rim is lying flat on a table), something i didnt notice last night before i went for a test ride, however the play i notice there is far less than the play between cassette and the hub. Now im thinking about just riding this way till it brakes and buying some proper parts, cause this seems like some low end **** to me tbh.

  5. #5
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    what condition is the freehub in? ie any wear marks from the cassette rings?

  6. #6
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    I would be pissed the **** off at whoever you bought that bike from, go ***** at your lbs if you bought it from them and demand this to be fixed.

    Also, check the bike you bought from them and make sure ALL of you componenets match the original specs for the bike you bought from them

    This problem should never happen so either A. they swapped out parts intentionally or B. they did it
    unintentiolly

    if they wont fix it raise all hell

    if you swapped the stock cassete out yourself disregard this post.

  7. #7
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    does the freehub itself move back and forth?

  8. #8
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    Shimano cassette a bit loose on rear cassette hub

    Quote Originally Posted by toot334455 View Post
    I would be pissed the **** off at whoever you bought that bike from, go ***** at your lbs if you bought it from them and demand this to be fixed.

    Also, check the bike you bought from them and make sure ALL of you componenets match the original specs for the bike you bought from them

    This problem should never happen so either A. they swapped out parts intentionally or B. they did it
    unintentiolly

    if they wont fix it raise all hell

    if you swapped the stock cassete out yourself disregard this post.
    Easy there, I really don't think it's right to blame the shop at this juncture.

    I agree with what has been said above, try another spacer so that the lock ring must "compress" the cassette as it is tightened. Most free hubs have a bit of play between the hub and cassette so this doesn't surprise me. Pictures?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SenorSerioso View Post
    Easy there, I really don't think it's right to blame the shop at this juncture.

    I agree with what has been said above, try another spacer so that the lock ring must "compress" the cassette as it is tightened. Most free hubs have a bit of play between the hub and cassette so this doesn't surprise me. Pictures?
    Perhaps this is a bit aggressive

    but seriously if you pay 500 or more for a mt bike the parts should fit, be correct and work.

    Even if it doesnt work they should replace the parts under warranty

    you need to go back and ask questions

    perhaps the person who built the bike lost the spacer or put on the wrong size

    Look up your bikes spec
    find the free hub
    find the cassette
    verify the parts by their numbers

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    what condition is the freehub in? ie any wear marks from the cassette rings?

    it seems like the sprockets in the cassette has left small marks on the hub, nothing big really but its there on all of the "grooves" on the hub that the cassette sits on.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by toot334455 View Post
    does the freehub itself move back and forth?
    Yes it moves a very slight bit, if i put the rim on a table, with the hub facing up i can push it horizontally a bit.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by toot334455 View Post
    Perhaps this is a bit aggressive


    but seriously if you pay 500 or more for a mt bike the parts should fit, be correct and work.


    Even if it doesnt work they should replace the parts under warranty


    you need to go back and ask questions


    perhaps the person who built the bike lost the spacer or put on the wrong size


    Look up your bikes spec
    find the free hub
    find the cassette
    verify the parts by their numbers


    yeah i agree, cost me over 700 usd, and the brakes were ****ed up when i got the bike, after goin back to the store with it twice, and having their (retard?) mechanic look at it and adjusting the brakes without adressing the actual problem: a fauly adjustment bolt in the caliper, i got sick of it and got a pair of bb7 calipers and avid rotors and replaced the low end ****, took more than a week for their retard mechanic to have his look at them and he still didnt fix it, and i dont rly want to be without my bicycle for weeks now that summer is here.

    Now im thinkin the same thing will happen if i go back with it now, and i dont feel like wasting tons of time with the retards in the shop that probably wont even be able to grasp the issue im having, like with the brake problem i had.

    im just gonna ride this crappy cassette and hub down til they brake and replace the crap with some properly built parts, cause im suspecting most components of this bike has the same quality you would expect from a chineese sweatshop with non-existent quality control, so i might as well wear the **** down, toss it and get some components that will work properly,

  13. #13
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    Re: Shimano cassette a bit loose on rear cassette hub

    Complain all you want, in the end riding components with the intention to make them fail because you don't want to maintain them will only cost you. Putting a spacer behind a cassette is nothing new. $700 mountain bike components don't have perfect fit tolerances. $700 mountain bikes definitely don't. FWIW, those grooves on the freehub body are usually called splines.

    Work around it, don't smash it. Sorry brakes on said $700 bike are not adequate... Some people suck it up and buy XTR brakes. Up to you. In the last year and a half, retail cost + maintenance/replaced rotors puts the price rather high on what I've spent on mine. And they still need maintenance.

    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

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    Re: Shimano cassette a bit loose on rear cassette hub

    I rescind my statement, being wasteful like that costs everyone always. As usual.

    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

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    Quote Originally Posted by anymore View Post
    yeah i agree, cost me over 700 usd, and the brakes were ****ed up when i got the bike, after goin back to the store with it twice, and having their (retard?) mechanic look at it and adjusting the brakes without adressing the actual problem: a fauly adjustment bolt in the caliper, i got sick of it and got a pair of bb7 calipers and avid rotors and replaced the low end ****, took more than a week for their retard mechanic to have his look at them and he still didnt fix it, and i dont rly want to be without my bicycle for weeks now that summer is here.

    Now im thinkin the same thing will happen if i go back with it now, and i dont feel like wasting tons of time with the retards in the shop that probably wont even be able to grasp the issue im having, like with the brake problem i had.

    im just gonna ride this crappy cassette and hub down til they brake and replace the crap with some properly built parts, cause im suspecting most components of this bike has the same quality you would expect from a chineese sweatshop with non-existent quality control, so i might as well wear the **** down, toss it and get some components that will work properly,
    Just FYI, if you're having trouble with a bike (or the shop) reasoned discussion with them might get you farther than calling them retards. I can't guarantee that the owner/mechanic from wherever you bought the bike is active on the board, but I know myself and several others are mechanics/shop owners. You won't make very many friends by having a freak out.

  16. #16
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    Name:  vvvvvvvvvvvvv.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by anymore View Post
    Yes it moves a very slight bit, if i put the rim on a table, with the hub facing up i can push it horizontally a bit.

    check the the (im not really sure what theyre called) outsides of the free hub and see if they are loose.

    These things might need to be tightened hold when side and tighten the other

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by toot334455 View Post
    Name:  vvvvvvvvvvvvv.jpg
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    check the the (im not really sure what theyre called) outsides of the free hub and see if they are loose.

    These things might need to be tightened hold when side and tighten the other
    Bearing cones. You'll need special thin wrenches specifically for them (or you can grind a cheap set of open-ended wrenches down).

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
    Just FYI, if you're having trouble with a bike (or the shop) reasoned discussion with them might get you farther than calling them retards. I can't guarantee that the owner/mechanic from wherever you bought the bike is active on the board, but I know myself and several others are mechanics/shop owners. You won't make very many friends by having a freak out.
    You serious? Mayby they shouldnt be calling themselves mechanics if they cant even grasp and solve issues pepole have with their bicycles.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by anymore View Post
    You serious? Mayby they shouldnt be calling themselves mechanics if they cant even grasp and solve issues pepole have with their bicycles.
    Ive noticed that when dealing with bike shop scrubs you need to be more knoweledgable than them.

    They dont want to find the problem

    but in the case that you tell them the Exact problem they will fix it

    So an example of this would be like:
    I was once having trouble adjusting my rear deraliuer, I took it in the bike shop and said

    hey I need a rear deraliuer adjustment, and he responded ok, I am just going to right you up as a tune up and charge you 50 bucks, and I said no!

    I dont need a "tune up " I need a rear derliuer adjustment and I also bought this new chain that I want you guys to install. It also needs to be shortened to so many links (I dont remember the math I used the link equation for a med cage derliuer).
    I then aslo told him to use the hanger tool and check to make sure that its not bent too far.

    he agreed after he got the hint that I know what the hell I was talking about and charged me a reasonable price.

    What bike, year and model do you have?
    Also what new parts did you buy for the bike since youve had it?

  20. #20
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    Re: Shimano cassette a bit loose on rear cassette hub

    Quote Originally Posted by toot334455 View Post
    Ive noticed that when dealing with bike shop scrubs you need to be more knoweledgable than them.

    They dont want to find the problem

    but in the case that you tell them the Exact problem they will fix it

    So an example of this would be like:
    I was once having trouble adjusting my rear deraliuer, I took it in the bike shop and said

    hey I need a rear deraliuer adjustment, and he responded ok, I am just going to right you up as a tune up and charge you 50 bucks, and I said no!

    I dont need a "tune up " I need a rear derliuer adjustment and I also bought this new chain that I want you guys to install. It also needs to be shortened to so many links (I dont remember the math I used the link equation for a med cage derliuer).
    I then aslo told him to use the hanger tool and check to make sure that its not bent too far.

    he agreed after he got the hint that I know what the hell I was talking about and charged me a reasonable price.

    What bike, year and model do you have?
    Also what new parts did you buy for the bike since youve had it?
    Wow I'm surprised any of that really happened. I think people are more likely to refuse you service if you talk to them that way, so, I make my statement while disregarding you're over-exaggeration of the matter.

    Bike shops don't know all customers and often have to treat you that way if you don't make it clear that you know what's up ahead of time. That's on you, not them. I can't judge what a person knows about bike maintenance by just looking at them. I wish I was that good, but I am yet to meet anyone else who is anyways.

    Buy your own tools if its a big deal. Tools aren't cheap, I've spent nearly $600 dollars on bike tools and still don't have a bench vice and all the suspension tools I'd like to have.

    I got told straight up that "saying that isn't a good way to make friends" by a good mechanic once. He wasn't doing work on my bike, we were talking.

    It is good advice when dealing with this stuff. It just sounds like you don't get it, so you should take it into account yourself.

    Calm, clear, communication..

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by toot334455 View Post
    Ive noticed that when dealing with bike shop scrubs you need to be more knoweledgable than them.

    They dont want to find the problem

    but in the case that you tell them the Exact problem they will fix it

    So an example of this would be like:
    I was once having trouble adjusting my rear deraliuer, I took it in the bike shop and said

    hey I need a rear deraliuer adjustment, and he responded ok, I am just going to right you up as a tune up and charge you 50 bucks, and I said no!

    I dont need a "tune up " I need a rear derliuer adjustment and I also bought this new chain that I want you guys to install. It also needs to be shortened to so many links (I dont remember the math I used the link equation for a med cage derliuer).
    I then aslo told him to use the hanger tool and check to make sure that its not bent too far.

    he agreed after he got the hint that I know what the hell I was talking about and charged me a reasonable price.

    What bike, year and model do you have?
    Also what new parts did you buy for the bike since youve had it?

    ..wow..there is so much material here..gonna take awhile for me to put it all together..

    Only once in 30 years did I walk out of a house I was servicing cause of this kinda thing..was it your house??


    Besides, its best to mount the exact derailleur one is using and tweek the hanger from there. And needing a chart or some equation for chain length..just use +2.

    $300.00 daily times 300 days open in a year is only 90,000 gross. Subtract all the other costs and one is lucky to clear 25,000 year. I'm sure 300.00 daily for a small shop is hard to do.

    I did not see if you age was listed in your profile so I am assuming you must be under 25. You will remember this one day and say to yourself Oh yea, I get it now...
    lean forward

  22. #22
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    your do it your way all do it mine

    and no I wont look back at this.

    I do all my work my self except for specialized things.

    Honestly bike mechanics are nothing special when the internet exists.

    The only difference is they have tools and some experience.

    If the internet did not exist I would never do any work on my own bike.

    but im an engineer so it might be different for non-technical degrees

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by anymore View Post
    You serious? Mayby they shouldnt be calling themselves mechanics if they cant even grasp and solve issues pepole have with their bicycles.
    Hed did take it in and the guy couldnt solve his issues

  24. #24
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    Now that the bike shop mechanic bashing is done, lets get back on topic here.


    To the OP, the movement between the cassette and the freehub body is normal to an extent. The tolerances between 2 different manufacturers products are not always identical.

    Example. If one item is made to 10 inches in diameter, with a plus/minus of 1/4 inch, making the exact measurement 9 3/4 inches, and another part is made to the same specification - 10 inches plus or minus 1/4, and it's exact measurement is 10 1/4 inches, you have a total of 1/2 inch of play.

    With bike parts this is tolerance level is usually X, plus or minus hundredths of an inch. As these tolerances stack up, play can be noticed. But this does not mean that it is a bad part.

    Now as with most hubs on bikes under $1000, the hubs are either Formula (not the good Brake company) or Joytech, manufactured and branded with the bike companies name.

    The horizontal movement you are seeing is fairly normal. Some more, some less (see tolerance explanation). When the lock right is tightened down to the proper spec, the splines on the cassette will make contact with the splines on the freehub body under load and movement should no longer be detected under normal riding conditions.

    This movement you are noticing just did not occur with the new cassette. It also happened with the old one. The reason you didn't see it, was because of what I mentioned in the previous sentences.

    Installing a spacer behind the cassette only moves the cassette out further away. This will affect the shifting. Also, if you are using an old chain on a new cassette, this will affect the shifting as well.

    You might even have to do a minor rear derailleur adjustment as well. Just because it is the same part description as what you took off, doesn't mean a small adjustment is not needed.

    Every time I install any drive train part, I always recheck the shifting. If the shifting is just a tad off, I make the proper adjustments.

    Install the cassette with a new chain, make the derailleur adjustment and go ride.

    Hope this helps.

  25. #25
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    Shimano cassette a bit loose on rear cassette hub

    Was the locking torqued to the specification printed on it or just tightened? I have had them feel loose while riding when I thought I had tightened it well enough and when I went back and used a torque wrench I was surprised how much tighter it needed to be. But after torquing they never felt loose.

    I had to go buy a socket to fit the locking tool to be able to use a torque wrench on it.

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