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  1. #1
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    Rough Truvativ GXP Driveside Bearings

    I've got a SRAM X0 2x10 crankset with the newer Truvativ GXP Team bottom bracket. They only have about 300 miles on them and I already had clicking from the bottom bracket. I removed the seals, etc. Degreased, regreased, etc. No more clicking, but the driveside sounds very rough. I've had the Truvativ ceramic BBs in the past with no problems. Has anyone else had this issue. Again, these are the DS which have smaller bearings the NDS. Thanks!

    -Pete

  2. #2
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    There seem to be an inordinate occurrence of that issue happening with the steel bearing Truvativ brackets. I replace mine straight away with Enduro bearing kits, or go straight for an Enduro bracket.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
    There seem to be an inordinate occurrence of that issue happening with the steel bearing Truvativ brackets. I replace mine straight away with Enduro bearing kits, or go straight for an Enduro bracket.
    yup.. what he said.. the GXP system is a better design.. but Sram/Truvativ has screwed it by using crappy materials it seems.. keep the cranks.. toss the BB and get an after market BB.. been running my Enduro brand BB now for like 3 yrs with just minor cleanings and it's as smooth today as it was the day I got it (actually I think smoother )
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by allenpg View Post
    I've got a SRAM X0 2x10 crankset with the newer Truvativ GXP Team bottom bracket. They only have about 300 miles on them and I already had clicking from the bottom bracket. I removed the seals, etc. Degreased, regreased, etc. No more clicking, but the driveside sounds very rough. I've had the Truvativ ceramic BBs in the past with no problems. Has anyone else had this issue. Again, these are the DS which have smaller bearings the NDS. Thanks!

    -Pete
    GXP requires a properly spaced BB shell. I've had some shells that were 1.5mm too wide, thus causing EXCESSIVE preload on the bearings. Your issue could be that if this is your first time putting the GXP crank on this frame. If you ran shimano previously, this wouldn't have been an issue since preload is adjustable. Since GXP requires the crank bolt to bottom out, you can have issues if there's some paint or anything "spacing" out the BB shell.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by notenoughtime View Post
    GXP requires a properly spaced BB shell. I've had some shells that were 1.5mm too wide, thus causing EXCESSIVE preload on the bearings. Your issue could be that if this is your first time putting the GXP crank on this frame. If you ran shimano previously, this wouldn't have been an issue since preload is adjustable. Since GXP requires the crank bolt to bottom out, you can have issues if there's some paint or anything "spacing" out the BB shell.
    absolutely not... GXP has NO preload as the drive side bearings "float" on the spindle. to bolt just traps the non-drive bearing's inner race. There is ZERO preloading of bearing... which is why the system is actually FAR better than shimano's just the bearings themselves on stock units are kinda crappy.

    Just so you can understand the difference...

    Trail Tire TV: Sram's GXP Bottom Bracket, how it differs from others
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomllama View Post
    absolutely not... GXP has NO preload as the drive side bearings "float" on the spindle. to bolt just traps the non-drive bearing's inner race. There is ZERO preloading of bearing... which is why the system is actually FAR better than shimano's just the bearings themselves on stock units are kinda crappy.

    Just so you can understand the difference...

    Trail Tire TV: Sram's GXP Bottom Bracket, how it differs from others
    Not to get into a shouting match of who's the better mechanic as I don't claim to be an expert by any means, but wouldn't there be an issue if your BB shell is too wide? Your spindle is expecting your bearings to be placed a very specific spot. If you have a too narrow shell, no major issue except your drive bearing sees all the lateral forces that might be applied. If your shell is too wide however, yes your DS bearing is seated on a shelf on the spindle, but then your pulling both bearings together, thus preloading right? Please let me know if I'm thinking about this all wrong. I can't watch the video since my work computer likes to block things.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by notenoughtime View Post
    Not to get into a shouting match of who's the better mechanic as I don't claim to be an expert by any means, but wouldn't there be an issue if your BB shell is too wide? Your spindle is expecting your bearings to be placed a very specific spot. If you have a too narrow shell, no major issue except your drive bearing sees all the lateral forces that might be applied. If your shell is too wide however, yes your DS bearing is seated on a shelf on the spindle, but then your pulling both bearings together, thus preloading right? Please let me know if I'm thinking about this all wrong. I can't watch the video since my work computer likes to block things.
    nope.. as like I said the drive side bearings "float" on the spindle... side to side motion is controlled by trapping the the non-drive side bearings inner race... reason the GXP is great for changing chain line as they have play room.. there is built in like 3mm space between the bearing seal and the spider body.. you can also flip plastic spacers around without issue. or take one out. doesn't matter. the only catch is the DRIVE SIDE bearing SHOULD NOT come in contact with the spider. everyone see's the space and thinks there is an issue, but it's not.. there should be a space,.. takes tension off the drive side bearing which is over worked by the drive train already.


    does the work puter block images also?

    here...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rough Truvativ GXP Driveside Bearings-sram_shimmyspindle.png  

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomllama View Post
    nope.. as like I said the drive side bearings "float" on the spindle... side to side motion is controlled by trapping the the non-drive side bearings inner race... reason the GXP is great for changing chain line as they have play room.. there is built in like 3mm space between the bearing seal and the spider body.. you can also flip plastic spacers around without issue. or take one out. doesn't matter.

    does the work puter block images also?

    here...

    I got the picture and understand it. I didn't know there was 3mm of space between the seal and spider. So if that's the case, if your shell were so grossly out of spec, by over 3mm, then your spider would touch and compress the bearings right? That's what I'm saying. It obviously should never be a problem since 3mm is an unreasonable amount to be out of tolerance.

  9. #9
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    ya and no again... as even with a 73 mm BB they design it to have a spacer on the drive side now,.. many frames are using BB mounted equipment (chain guides, odd derailleurs and such) that if you were that far out you could just pull the spacer...

    so you're frame would have to be WAY out for a GXP crankset not to fit.. and if it's out that bad the Shimano wouldn't work correct either as the non-drive crank arm wouldn't have enough of the spindle to clamp onto and you'd end up damaging the splines.. get creaks, have the spindle screw up.
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  10. #10
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    My GXP Team bottom bracket has been flawless for four years in the dusty Socal desert where I live. I have to hose my bike off every ride because of the dust. I take the outer seals off every six months or so and take a heavy rag and wipe out as much old grease out of the bearings as possible. I'm ready to go after I repack it with Park blue poly lube. The only problem that I have had is when I have tried to wipe off the extra grease that gets squeezed out after the first ride. I pushed some sand in past the seal one time. Now, I take a ride around the block after putting it back together and then wipe off the excess grease before I ride in the dirt.

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