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  1. #1
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    removing xt hollowtech II cranks

    Ok so i undid the pinch bolts, and took off the plastic cap. The left crank arm came off super easy. then I go to pull out the drive side arm, and well it wont budge. I tried hitting it out with a rubber mallet, but nothing. tried prying it out with a screwdriver(bad idea I know) and nothing. I dont know what coud be holding it!!! Please help me!!!
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  2. #2
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    There's nothing holding it on now, you may need to whack the spindle a little harder with that mallet...
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    gotta move the safety clip thing out between the pinch bolts

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    Quote Originally Posted by reptilezs
    gotta move the safety clip thing out between the pinch bolts
    He's already got the nds arm off...
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    oops, hit it harder then

  6. #6
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    Put a scrap of 2x4 on the spindle and hit it with a real BFH, e.g. 3 lbs sledge. Grease the spindle when you install it so it won't be so difficult next time.
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    The crank is probably siezed to one or both of the bearings....

    You may pop the ds bearing out with the crank the nds will have to slip on the crank...

    Apply some penetrating oil or some WD-40 if you plan to install new bearings...that may slip things up a bit...

    Really it shouldn't take a lot of force, set up and use a sharp blow rather than a heavy blow.

    Often a large ball/peen hammer with the ball on the crank hit with a small ball peen hammer will "crack" it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    The crank is probably siezed to one or both of the bearings....

    You may pop the ds bearing out with the crank the nds will have to slip on the crank...

    Apply some penetrating oil or some WD-40 if you plan to install new bearings...that may slip things up a bit...

    Really it shouldn't take a lot of force, set up and use a sharp blow rather than a heavy blow.

    Often a large ball/peen hammer with the ball on the crank hit with a small ball peen hammer will "crack" it.
    Shimano uses a plastic interface between spindle and bearings....
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    Shimano uses a plastic interface between spindle and bearings....

    True and they may be siezed on....well seem to be siezed on.

    Also they maybe changed out for other bearings....with metal interfaces...

    Dirt may have gotten in between the plastic sleeve and the crank...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    True and they may be siezed on....well seem to be siezed on.

    Also they maybe changed out for other bearings....with metal interfaces...

    Dirt may have gotten in between the plastic sleeve and the crank...
    Just referring to the seizing thing....but more than likely he just didn't give it a good enough whack. Did you ever see a bearing pop out under these circumstances, though?
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    Just referring to the seizing thing....but more than likely he just didn't give it a good enough whack. Did you ever see a bearing pop out under these circumstances, though?

    No I have not seen the drive side bearing pop out....

    But then I have never had a crank that didn't come out easily....

    With either with my hand, or a gentle tap with a hammer and a piece of wood....I have a blind bearing puller...

    I have popped out the cup bearings with a sharp tap with a hammer...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    No I have not seen the drive side bearing pop out....

    But then I have never had a crank that didn't come out easily....

    With either with my hand, or a gentle tap with a hammer and a piece of wood....I have a blind bearing puller...

    I have popped out the cup bearings with a sharp tap with a hammer...
    I have a three of this type of crank, two are fairly easy, one is very sticky...even clean and well lubed...
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    I have a three of this type of crank, two are fairly easy, one is very sticky...even clean and well lubed...
    I maintain four of this type, all come off easily.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    I have a three of this type of crank, two are fairly easy, one is very sticky...even clean and well lubed...
    ^^ this. I have a 5 year old XT M760 crank that slides in and out no problem, clean, dirty, greased, whatever.

    I also have a brand new XT M770 that is sticky, almost like one part of the axle is slightly thicker than the rest, enough that I cannot remove it by hand, and need a piece of wood and hammer to tap it out.

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    I know this may sound dumb, but make sure you have the chain off, and make sure you don't have a chain guide or something the chain ring could be hitting on.

    Once you verified you are obstruction free, hit it with a plastic mallet (rubber may be too soft). If you don't have that, use a regular hammer and piece of wood.

    I've never had one seize on me, but I always put a little grease on my spindle when I install.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    I have a three of this type of crank,
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    I maintain four of this type,
    Oh yeah, well I have five. So there!
    Actually I only have four, but I really wanted to keep this one-up thing going.

    OP, you need to post back with a quick "that worked" comment, otherwise you're going to get 50 more posts telling you basically the same thing over and over and over and over . . .
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  17. #17
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    Nah, let's see who has the most! I was just pointing out some of them are sticky (and the one that sticks, like deoreo, is the newest one, an M660)...I was wondering if they made some change to the spindle...or the plastic sleeve?
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  18. #18
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    Mine are m760's if that helps at all. I tried applying penetrating oil and coming back a few hours later. It wont come out no matter what I do. I just bought the bike used so im guessing whoever owned it before me didnt grease it when they put it together. But still, a good wack should do it. Is there any kind of possibility that the spindle is bent or something? I wouldn't think it would pedal right if it was bent, but thats all I can think that would make it this hard to get out.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    Mine are m760's if that helps at all. I tried applying penetrating oil and coming back a few hours later. It wont come out no matter what I do. I just bought the bike used so im guessing whoever owned it before me didnt grease it when they put it together. But still, a good wack should do it. Is there any kind of possibility that the spindle is bent or something? I wouldn't think it would pedal right if it was bent, but thats all I can think that would make it this hard to get out.

    You should be able to see the nds bearing.....

    What do you see????

    A black piece of plastic, or a cartridge bearing?

  20. #20
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    Im in school right now. Ill post pics when I get home
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  21. #21
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    I'm thinking the same as Jeff, wondering what the interface is...and I think you'd know if the spindle was bent, too. You are whacking the spindle itself, right?
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  22. #22
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    yeah im hitting the spindle itself. This is what I see, but obviously it's in the frame and there is a spindle sticking out of it in my case. http://www.amazon.com/M770-Left-Bott.../dp/B001GSOO4S Im not trying to say im the best mechanic ever, but I do ALL my own work, and have replaced more isis bb's than I can count. Im not very familiar with external bearing setups though. Everyone says they are so much better than isis, but right now im not convinced!!! These things are a pain!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    yeah im hitting the spindle itself. This is what I see, but obviously it's in the frame and there is a spindle sticking out of it in my case. http://www.amazon.com/M770-Left-Bott.../dp/B001GSOO4S Im not trying to say im the best mechanic ever, but I do ALL my own work, and have replaced more isis bb's than I can count. Im not very familiar with external bearing setups though. Everyone says they are so much better than isis, but right now im not convinced!!! These things are a pain!!

    Okay first no one said anything about whether you were good bad or indifferent...

    Second we can conclude that the bearings in question are stock shimano's not a replacement bearing...

    The interface is plastic on alloy...

    Third we know that you have a relatively special problem, certainly only 1 in ten or less have anywhere near this amount of problems.....

    Fourth we know it is a used bike, so the previous owner may have already discovered this problem...

    So are the bearings a problem, slow, gritty.....

    Why are you taking it apart?

    Next steps, I would get a large ball peen hammer, get one guy to hold it up to the crank....the other guy whacks the big one with another hammer, what you are trying to do is get that sharp crack blow.....do not over do it, just a nice "sharp blow" the first hammer protects the end of the crank nicely....you could use the ball end if it fits perfectly into the hoolow crank end.

    After that pack the hollow crank with shaved ice or snow....

    And gently steam the BB housing above a simmering kettle...when the ice is just about melted, do the nice sharp blow again....

  24. #24
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    I know you never said anything about my mechanic skills, but i wanted to let you guys know im not an idiot or a noob by any means. The bearings are fine..im taking it apart to switch out the stock chainrings to set it up 2x9. Also whenever I buy a bike used I strip it down to the frame and then put it back together just to make sure it's all greased and put together right, and get familiar with everything on it like you only can by taking it all apart. Thanks for the snow and ice idea, il try that when as soon as I get a chance...probably tomorrow night. Maybe even just letting it sit outside in the 10 degree weather would make the metal contract enough to get it out too, idk.
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    Your looking for a differential in temps so better the snow inside....

    Seriously try the sharp blow method rather than the dead blow method, but be careful...

    If crank is bent there should be some indication of that if you rotate the crank...

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    Son, you need a bigger hammer.

  27. #27
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    Just WHACK the damn thing and get it over with! What are you waiting for?
    Just take that rubber mallet you have in one hand, grab the frame in the other hand, and give the spindle a good hard forceful smack.
    Everybody has pretty much told you the same thing - which, by the way is an extremely rare occurrence on these forums. So please, go for it.
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  28. #28
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    ok 5 sharp blows later with a VERY large hammer, and it moved about 3.5 inches. It is no longer stuck in the NDS bearing, however it now will not come out of the DS bearing, and there is no more spindle sticking out of the NDS of the bike to whack. I tried just pulling it and wiggling it, and it aint movin. I tried using a screwdriver to hit the spindle inside of the bb to break it free, but to no avail (however i didnt wanna hit it very hard because i didnt wanna mess up the spline interface on the spindle. The only other way I can think of is to hit the chainrings, but that will bend them, so im trying to avoid that. Something this simple really shouldnt give me this much crap!!!
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    ok 5 sharp blows later with a VERY large hammer, and it moved about 3.5 inches. It is no longer stuck in the NDS bearing, however it now will not come out of the DS bearing, and there is no more spindle sticking out of the NDS of the bike to whack. I tried just pulling it and wiggling it, and it aint movin. I tried using a screwdriver to hit the spindle inside of the bb to break it free, but to no avail (however i didnt wanna hit it very hard because i didnt wanna mess up the spline interface on the spindle. The only other way I can think of is to hit the chainrings, but that will bend them, so im trying to avoid that. Something this simple really shouldnt give me this much crap!!!
    Man that's one stubborn spindle interface you've got there...be sure to take pics when you get it out. Maybe try using a wooden dowel or something that you can put thru the bearing at the end of the spindle and still be able to whack? Be careful of the threads inside the spindle end, too.
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    Man that's one stubborn spindle interface you've got there...be sure to take pics when you get it out. Maybe try using a wooden dowel or something that you can put thru the bearing at the end of the spindle and still be able to whack? Be careful of the threads inside the spindle end, too.
    Thanks, ill try the dowel tomorrow...I'll have to borrow one from the tech room at school. I will post pics of it stuck the way it is right now tomorrow night if I remember
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    Hey can you post a pic from both sides? Did you take off NDS bearing cup? Does it come out easily or it won't budge after some turns? If this is the case then you may have a bent spindle or bent BB shell (like that happens...), or BB not installed flash. If the NDS cup is out, then you should have 2cm more to wack, although I woud be very careful on angle you wack.

    Another thought - can you take off DS cup with the spindle stuck in there? If so, and if you have a big vice, you can try clamping the cup and spindle, or start punchng the cut edges patiently south, north, west, east, repeat.

    It sure sounds like a unique problem and I'm sorry to hear all this. Mine comes out with a light tap with a rubber mallet.

  32. #32
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    Yeah, I'll post pics from both sides tomorrow. I dont have the tool to remover the bearing cups, so I cant do that without risking messing them up. I have a buddy who is a seriously amazing mechanic, and im going to take it up to him and have him look at it, im thinking there is something extremely out of the ordinary about whats up with this thing...maybe the bearing cup is cross threaded, or the threads arent tapped quite straight??? Im just taking shots in the dark here, im fresh out of ideas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    Thanks, ill try the dowel tomorrow...I'll have to borrow one from the tech room at school. I will post pics of it stuck the way it is right now tomorrow night if I remember
    There is a good chance that the edge of a wooden dowel will splinter and allow it to be driven into the spindle just to get stuck as well. See if you can get a 7/8" diameter brass or aluminum rod.

    When you get it apart, it might be a good idea to get the BB faced to be sure you have proper alignment from side to side.
    Last edited by gmcttr; 02-23-2010 at 09:24 PM.

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    try unthreading the drive side bearing cup to get the whole shabang out than you may be able to get the cup off the spindle easier, maybe use a fly wheel puller after you get it out of the frame
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

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    Are you this guy?


    I'm just kidding. Well now you at least know that moves but is just tight. Get on the drive side, grab the crank arm with on hand and the chainring with the other (may want to wear gloves), put your feet up against the frame, lean forward then yank it. straight out (fast). Don't wiggle it or pull at an angle, just pull straight back.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    Thanks, ill try the dowel tomorrow...I'll have to borrow one from the tech room at school. I will post pics of it stuck the way it is right now tomorrow night if I remember

    You should be able to tell what the problem is now....

    You can see the DS shaft and bearing interface....

    You should be able to tell if the crank is straight, or bent

    You should be able to tell if the crank is out of round...

    You should be able to tell if the bearings are out of alignment...

    With the amount of force you seem to be applying you may just pull the DS bearing out of the cup (no a bad thing at this point)....

    I wonder if the internal sleeve that houses the inside of the crank and bearings was misassembled and is jammed in crocked?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    You should be able to tell what the problem is now....

    You can see the DS shaft and bearing interface....

    You should be able to tell if the crank is straight, or bent

    You should be able to tell if the crank is out of round...

    You should be able to tell if the bearings are out of alignment...

    With the amount of force you seem to be applying you may just pull the DS bearing out of the cup (no a bad thing at this point)....

    I wonder if the internal sleeve that houses the inside of the crank and bearings was misassembled and is jammed in crocked?
    -as far as I can tell, nothing is bent or out of round. I tried wiggling it, but the bearing just rocks back and forth with it so thats no good.

    -The bearings seem to be aligned just fine.

    -If I pull the bearing out of the cup, will I have to buy a new bb? Or will it just pop back in?

    -your theory about the sleeve being installed improperly seems like the best explination ive heard yet.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    -as far as I can tell, nothing is bent or out of round. I tried wiggling it, but the bearing just rocks back and forth with it so thats no good.

    -The bearings seem to be aligned just fine.

    -If I pull the bearing out of the cup, will I have to buy a new bb? Or will it just pop back in?

    -your theory about the sleeve being installed improperly seems like the best explination ive heard yet.

    The bearings are easy to re install you can press them in or tap them in with the BB cup on the bike....

    If the BB cup is damaged or out of round it may require replacement...

    Shimano sells replacement cups and bearings as a single unit...

    Enduro seals sells replacement bearings and cups separtly....

    Yeah good luck with my theories anyway good luck with getting it the rest of the way out...

    If it is the internal sleeve then you will need to remove the cups....generally that is a very easy process with the proper wrench (see park tool or enduroseal).

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    The bearings are easy to re install you can press them in or tap them in with the BB cup on the bike....

    If the BB cup is damaged or out of round it may require replacement...

    Shimano sells replacement cups and bearings as a single unit...

    Enduro seals sells replacement bearings and cups separtly....

    Yeah good luck with my theories anyway good luck with getting it the rest of the way out...

    If it is the internal sleeve then you will need to remove the cups....generally that is a very easy process with the proper wrench (see park tool or enduroseal).
    The only problem with that is there is no way to get the wrench on the DS bearing cup, because the spindle is still in it, and the wrench wont fit over the spider on the cranks even if I remove the chainrings. And removing just the NDS cup might not help me if the sleeve is jammed in there good enough, right? I'll be home early tonight so I'll have lots of time to mess with it and see what I can do...but I think its going to give me alot of problems
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    you can with one of these

    http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...6_10000_201591

    but I think you are best off getting the crank off with the BB still on the bike.
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  41. #41
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    Remove the drive side cup with a pair of channel locks , wrap the cup with a rag if you want to try not scarring it .

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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS
    Remove the drive side cup with a pair of channel locks , wrap the cup with a rag if you want to try not scarring it .

    DUH!!! I really should have been able to figure that one out on my own!!! I feel like a moron now =[
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    BTW there are arrows on the cups that show you which way to tighten them, you want to go the otherway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    BTW there are arrows on the cups that show you which way to tighten them, you want to go the otherway.
    Thanks captain obvious lol jk I know your just trying to be helpful, but I can handle that much
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    Thanks captain obvious lol jk I know your just trying to be helpful, but I can handle that much

    Couldn't resist...

    Channel locks will likely deform the cup so that it requires replacement.....not a big deal.

    The proper wrench would help alot, maybe if you can't get a hold of one an LBS might donate one for a minute or two at the shop.....

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    do they make one that is open ended? every one ive ever seen isnt, so it would require taking the spindle out before I could put the wrench on
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    do they make one that is open ended? every one ive ever seen isnt, so it would require taking the spindle out before I could put the wrench on

    See trailviews post above.

    Yup

    If you have a Park tool one closed, you could alway take off the pedal on the nds and slip it over the crank arm.....

    Could try a strap wrench as well...

  48. #48
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    Ok, so after a long cycle of hitting it with a rubber mallet, and soaking it in penetrating oil, IT CAME OUT!!!! when I pulled it out and looked at the spindle there was a bunch of dirt ground into it, and alot of dust inside the bb shell. So im guessing that it was just seized up due to that. it clearly hadnt been serviced in a few years
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails removing xt hollowtech II cranks-xt-crank.jpg  

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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    When I pulled it out and looked at the spindle there was a bunch of dirt ground into it
    Right. Now make sure you put it back, because I don't know for sure whether your cranks use English, French, or Italian dirt, and they don't interchange.

  50. #50
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    Reputation: SteveUK's Avatar
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    When I pulled it out and looked at the spindle there was a bunch of dirt ground into it...
    It's not dirt, it's corrosion. The steel spindle has a coating in it to protect it, but it'll eventually break down, usually under the contact point of the bearings, and just a small hole will result in those little worm-hole type ridges. You'll have to remove the raised parts and sand down the edges of the protective layer; otherwise you're going to have the same trouble getting the spindle back in.

    Make sure you put plenty of grease on the spindle - to protect the now-naked surface from moisture, as much as anything else - but you need to start thinking about a new crankset. Because you've had to remove the material of the protective layer, the spindle is now smaller than intended; so you're going to have a tiny (probably imperceivable) amount of play, which, in turn, is going to bring more wear to the spindle. You may also find that the corrosive 'worms' start spreading again and causing the same problem you've had this time.

    What use is a philosopher who doesn't hurt anybody's feelings? -
    Diogenes


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