Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 59
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Destin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    524

    removing xt hollowtech II cranks

    Ok so i undid the pinch bolts, and took off the plastic cap. The left crank arm came off super easy. then I go to pull out the drive side arm, and well it wont budge. I tried hitting it out with a rubber mallet, but nothing. tried prying it out with a screwdriver(bad idea I know) and nothing. I dont know what coud be holding it!!! Please help me!!!
    Check out this organization that I ride with:
    www.r2rministry.org

    http://www.facebook.com/destindanserphotography

  2. #2
    *****************
    Reputation: Bikinfoolferlife's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    12,378
    There's nothing holding it on now, you may need to whack the spindle a little harder with that mallet...
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    1,294
    gotta move the safety clip thing out between the pinch bolts

  4. #4
    *****************
    Reputation: Bikinfoolferlife's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    12,378
    Quote Originally Posted by reptilezs
    gotta move the safety clip thing out between the pinch bolts
    He's already got the nds arm off...
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    1,294
    oops, hit it harder then

  6. #6
    Do It Yourself
    Reputation: Homebrew's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,722
    Put a scrap of 2x4 on the spindle and hit it with a real BFH, e.g. 3 lbs sledge. Grease the spindle when you install it so it won't be so difficult next time.
    Long Live Long Rides

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    11,272
    The crank is probably siezed to one or both of the bearings....

    You may pop the ds bearing out with the crank the nds will have to slip on the crank...

    Apply some penetrating oil or some WD-40 if you plan to install new bearings...that may slip things up a bit...

    Really it shouldn't take a lot of force, set up and use a sharp blow rather than a heavy blow.

    Often a large ball/peen hammer with the ball on the crank hit with a small ball peen hammer will "crack" it.

  8. #8
    *****************
    Reputation: Bikinfoolferlife's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    12,378
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    The crank is probably siezed to one or both of the bearings....

    You may pop the ds bearing out with the crank the nds will have to slip on the crank...

    Apply some penetrating oil or some WD-40 if you plan to install new bearings...that may slip things up a bit...

    Really it shouldn't take a lot of force, set up and use a sharp blow rather than a heavy blow.

    Often a large ball/peen hammer with the ball on the crank hit with a small ball peen hammer will "crack" it.
    Shimano uses a plastic interface between spindle and bearings....
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    11,272
    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    Shimano uses a plastic interface between spindle and bearings....

    True and they may be siezed on....well seem to be siezed on.

    Also they maybe changed out for other bearings....with metal interfaces...

    Dirt may have gotten in between the plastic sleeve and the crank...

  10. #10
    *****************
    Reputation: Bikinfoolferlife's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    12,378
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    True and they may be siezed on....well seem to be siezed on.

    Also they maybe changed out for other bearings....with metal interfaces...

    Dirt may have gotten in between the plastic sleeve and the crank...
    Just referring to the seizing thing....but more than likely he just didn't give it a good enough whack. Did you ever see a bearing pop out under these circumstances, though?
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    11,272
    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    Just referring to the seizing thing....but more than likely he just didn't give it a good enough whack. Did you ever see a bearing pop out under these circumstances, though?

    No I have not seen the drive side bearing pop out....

    But then I have never had a crank that didn't come out easily....

    With either with my hand, or a gentle tap with a hammer and a piece of wood....I have a blind bearing puller...

    I have popped out the cup bearings with a sharp tap with a hammer...

  12. #12
    *****************
    Reputation: Bikinfoolferlife's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    12,378
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    No I have not seen the drive side bearing pop out....

    But then I have never had a crank that didn't come out easily....

    With either with my hand, or a gentle tap with a hammer and a piece of wood....I have a blind bearing puller...

    I have popped out the cup bearings with a sharp tap with a hammer...
    I have a three of this type of crank, two are fairly easy, one is very sticky...even clean and well lubed...
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    11,272
    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    I have a three of this type of crank, two are fairly easy, one is very sticky...even clean and well lubed...
    I maintain four of this type, all come off easily.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    861
    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    I have a three of this type of crank, two are fairly easy, one is very sticky...even clean and well lubed...
    ^^ this. I have a 5 year old XT M760 crank that slides in and out no problem, clean, dirty, greased, whatever.

    I also have a brand new XT M770 that is sticky, almost like one part of the axle is slightly thicker than the rest, enough that I cannot remove it by hand, and need a piece of wood and hammer to tap it out.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: oldskoolbiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    1,600
    I know this may sound dumb, but make sure you have the chain off, and make sure you don't have a chain guide or something the chain ring could be hitting on.

    Once you verified you are obstruction free, hit it with a plastic mallet (rubber may be too soft). If you don't have that, use a regular hammer and piece of wood.

    I've never had one seize on me, but I always put a little grease on my spindle when I install.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,613
    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    I have a three of this type of crank,
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    I maintain four of this type,
    Oh yeah, well I have five. So there!
    Actually I only have four, but I really wanted to keep this one-up thing going.

    OP, you need to post back with a quick "that worked" comment, otherwise you're going to get 50 more posts telling you basically the same thing over and over and over and over . . .
    Warning: may contain sarcasm and/or crap made up in an attempt to feel important.

  17. #17
    *****************
    Reputation: Bikinfoolferlife's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    12,378
    Nah, let's see who has the most! I was just pointing out some of them are sticky (and the one that sticks, like deoreo, is the newest one, an M660)...I was wondering if they made some change to the spindle...or the plastic sleeve?
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Destin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    524
    Mine are m760's if that helps at all. I tried applying penetrating oil and coming back a few hours later. It wont come out no matter what I do. I just bought the bike used so im guessing whoever owned it before me didnt grease it when they put it together. But still, a good wack should do it. Is there any kind of possibility that the spindle is bent or something? I wouldn't think it would pedal right if it was bent, but thats all I can think that would make it this hard to get out.
    Check out this organization that I ride with:
    www.r2rministry.org

    http://www.facebook.com/destindanserphotography

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    11,272
    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    Mine are m760's if that helps at all. I tried applying penetrating oil and coming back a few hours later. It wont come out no matter what I do. I just bought the bike used so im guessing whoever owned it before me didnt grease it when they put it together. But still, a good wack should do it. Is there any kind of possibility that the spindle is bent or something? I wouldn't think it would pedal right if it was bent, but thats all I can think that would make it this hard to get out.

    You should be able to see the nds bearing.....

    What do you see????

    A black piece of plastic, or a cartridge bearing?

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Destin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    524
    Im in school right now. Ill post pics when I get home
    Check out this organization that I ride with:
    www.r2rministry.org

    http://www.facebook.com/destindanserphotography

  21. #21
    *****************
    Reputation: Bikinfoolferlife's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    12,378
    I'm thinking the same as Jeff, wondering what the interface is...and I think you'd know if the spindle was bent, too. You are whacking the spindle itself, right?
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Destin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    524
    yeah im hitting the spindle itself. This is what I see, but obviously it's in the frame and there is a spindle sticking out of it in my case. http://www.amazon.com/M770-Left-Bott.../dp/B001GSOO4S Im not trying to say im the best mechanic ever, but I do ALL my own work, and have replaced more isis bb's than I can count. Im not very familiar with external bearing setups though. Everyone says they are so much better than isis, but right now im not convinced!!! These things are a pain!!
    Check out this organization that I ride with:
    www.r2rministry.org

    http://www.facebook.com/destindanserphotography

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    11,272
    Quote Originally Posted by Destin
    yeah im hitting the spindle itself. This is what I see, but obviously it's in the frame and there is a spindle sticking out of it in my case. http://www.amazon.com/M770-Left-Bott.../dp/B001GSOO4S Im not trying to say im the best mechanic ever, but I do ALL my own work, and have replaced more isis bb's than I can count. Im not very familiar with external bearing setups though. Everyone says they are so much better than isis, but right now im not convinced!!! These things are a pain!!

    Okay first no one said anything about whether you were good bad or indifferent...

    Second we can conclude that the bearings in question are stock shimano's not a replacement bearing...

    The interface is plastic on alloy...

    Third we know that you have a relatively special problem, certainly only 1 in ten or less have anywhere near this amount of problems.....

    Fourth we know it is a used bike, so the previous owner may have already discovered this problem...

    So are the bearings a problem, slow, gritty.....

    Why are you taking it apart?

    Next steps, I would get a large ball peen hammer, get one guy to hold it up to the crank....the other guy whacks the big one with another hammer, what you are trying to do is get that sharp crack blow.....do not over do it, just a nice "sharp blow" the first hammer protects the end of the crank nicely....you could use the ball end if it fits perfectly into the hoolow crank end.

    After that pack the hollow crank with shaved ice or snow....

    And gently steam the BB housing above a simmering kettle...when the ice is just about melted, do the nice sharp blow again....

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Destin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    524
    I know you never said anything about my mechanic skills, but i wanted to let you guys know im not an idiot or a noob by any means. The bearings are fine..im taking it apart to switch out the stock chainrings to set it up 2x9. Also whenever I buy a bike used I strip it down to the frame and then put it back together just to make sure it's all greased and put together right, and get familiar with everything on it like you only can by taking it all apart. Thanks for the snow and ice idea, il try that when as soon as I get a chance...probably tomorrow night. Maybe even just letting it sit outside in the 10 degree weather would make the metal contract enough to get it out too, idk.
    Check out this organization that I ride with:
    www.r2rministry.org

    http://www.facebook.com/destindanserphotography

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    11,272
    Your looking for a differential in temps so better the snow inside....

    Seriously try the sharp blow method rather than the dead blow method, but be careful...

    If crank is bent there should be some indication of that if you rotate the crank...

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •