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  1. #1
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    removing a crank..

    I picked up an xt crank and im trying to pull off the old race face ride xc from the bike.
    I got the center nut off after putting a pipe on an 8mm allen key even thou it should have been tightened to 45 in/lb of torque.. now im stuck trying to pull the sprocked side off. is there a tool for that or should I just hit it to get it off. and yes this is my first time changing a crank

  2. #2
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    Yes, there is a specific tool made for the job. It threads into the arm and has a threaded pusher that pushes the spindle out of the crank. Don't try to remove the crank without this tool, you'll probably damage the arm or spindle.

    There are various brands, and you can pick one up at the LBS or any of the mail-order houses.
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  3. #3
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    Thanks. I'll see if my lbs has one

  4. #4
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    See if they can educate you on usual torque values too...
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  5. #5
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    The nut was tightened by rocky mountain or the bike shop, whoever assembled it when it was new . Anyways I do own a torque wrench and I will go by the instructions that came with the new crank.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tilk
    The nut was tightened by rocky mountain or the bike shop, whoever assembled it when it was new . Anyways I do own a torque wrench and I will go by the instructions that came with the new crank.
    You were the one who claimed it should only have been tightened to 45 in-lbs...which indicates to me you don't know what you're talking about and doesn't matter what someone else did or didn't do (try looking here http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=88). Follow instructions on the new crank, be sure you match up the correct model of XT crank, there are several different types of crank/bb interfaces all bearing the XT moniker...
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  7. #7
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    If you go to the race face website and look at the installation instructions for ride xc crank it states that that is how much torque should be applied to that particular bolt. So it's not me making up random numbers but an actuall manufacturer recomendation.

  8. #8
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    Reputation: eatdrinkride's Avatar
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    Op meant 45 ft pounds, I think.
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    Last edited by eatdrinkride; 03-26-2009 at 12:35 AM.

  9. #9
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    my bad.. my mind was on 45. I didnt event notice that it was ft/lbs and not in/lbs...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tilk
    my bad.. my mind was on 45. I didnt event notice that it was ft/lbs and not in/lbs...
    Just be careful when you're using the tools...and sometimes things just make sense or not, like an 8mm bolt only tightened to 45 in-lbs doesn't make much sense
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  11. #11
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    How did you manage to get the 8mm off? Mine is sooo stuck on there and I can't seem to get it to budge. Torque wrench or not - its on and I need if off!

  12. #12
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    i didnt use a torque wrench for that .... I used an regular husky allen key with a 12" pipe over it, im 240lbs and belive me I had my whole weight on it. probably the best thing to use would be a breaker bar with a 8mm hex on a 1/2inch drive or whatever the braker bar is.

  13. #13
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    One of gthe problems with the allen keys at high torque is that they tend to cam out. You canget a greater ratio of torque to the sideways force by cutting the short leg of gthe allen key so the long arm lays closer to the bolt, then using the longest cheater bar that you can find. It's also important to brace the crank so that it can't turn.

    Alternatively, you can use a socket wrench and support the head so that 100% of your force is torque.
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