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  1. #1
    Rollin 29s
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    Removing chain ring ramps and pins for 1x9

    I'm converting to 1x9 and want to use what I have to begin with. I'm going to use my regular ramped and pinned 32t ring in the middle.

    I will be using this BBG bash guard:



    And a home brew chain guide.

    My question is: would it help prevent chain movement, or lessen chain wear to remove a few millimeters of material below the cogs where the ramps and pins are? I run machine shop equipment at work, so it would be easy for me to chuck the ring up in the lathe and turn off a little bit.

    If the chain guide and bash guard are enough, and there are no advantages to removing material, I'll leave it alone.


  2. #2
    ~Disc~Golf~
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    you'll be fine
    the ramps/pins only serve to ease the chain on the ring
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  3. #3
    Rollin 29s
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    Thanks!

  4. #4
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65
    I'm converting to 1x9 and want to use what I have to begin with. I'm going to use my regular ramped and pinned 32t ring in the middle.

    I will be using this BBG bash guard:



    And a home brew chain guide.

    My question is: would it help prevent chain movement, or lessen chain wear to remove a few millimeters of material below the cogs where the ramps and pins are? I run machine shop equipment at work, so it would be easy for me to chuck the ring up in the lathe and turn off a little bit.

    If the chain guide and bash guard are enough, and there are no advantages to removing material, I'll leave it alone.

    Expect to have the chain "shift" off of the ring to the inside once in a while because of the shorter/contoured teeth. They are designed to release the chain.

    No way to "fix" the existing ring. A new ring with straight cut teeth will help keep the chain in place.
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  5. #5
    ~Disc~Golf~
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    Expect to have the chain "shift" off of the ring to the inside once in a while because of the shorter/contoured teeth.
    even with a chain guide?
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  6. #6
    Rollin 29s
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    Expect to have the chain "shift" off of the ring to the inside once in a while because of the shorter/contoured teeth. They are designed to release the chain.

    No way to "fix" the existing ring. A new ring with straight cut teeth will help keep the chain in place.
    Well, I could technically fix it using a rotary indexer on the mill to make the valleys between each tooth a little deeper, but at that point I might as well buy the straight cut gear

    I've only ridden it in the 32t front ring since the bike was new, and with the exception of accidentally bumping the shift lever a few times, the small and large rings have never seen a chain. In all this time I have never had the chain come off of the middle ring by itsself, so I'm thinking it will be fine with the bash guard and guide.

    I'm also going to run my long cage XTR derailleur using similar logic. Most people say you should go short or medium cage for 1x9 for quicker shifting. Why would my rear derailleur's shifting (which has always been crisp and responsive) slow down or become sluggish just because I'm removing two chain rings I never used anyhow?

    I think I'll run with what I've got.

  7. #7
    ~Disc~Golf~
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65
    Well, I could technically fix it using a rotary indexer on the mill to make the valleys between each tooth a little deeper, but at that point I might as well buy the straight cut gear ...
    Wouldn't work anyways...
    Cutting down the radii (directionally) of the ring would change the circumference (valleys closer together - rollers won't seat right.)

    anyways, I'm sure you'll manage with what ya got just fine

    If you got some suitable material in the shop, you could make your one tho!
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  8. #8
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    and once it comes time to replace them Salsa makes just about every size ring you could think of, at a pretty low price too.

  9. #9
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    The ramps and pins won't have any effect at all on your 1x9 setup, The chain is constantly engaged and they're below the tooth line.

    What might be a consideration are the gates or cut down teeth on the ring. They might (might, not will) contribute to the chain falling off when coming from the more extreme angles. It's not a definite thing, but the cut down teeth allow the chain to deflect sideways a bit more than normal, and makes it harder for the next tooth to pick it up smoothly.

    I wouldn't sweat it, but if you do have problems with the chain falling off, replace the ring with one made for single speed, or any old fashioned un-gated ring from before hyperglide.
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  10. #10
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll
    even with a chain guide?
    He is not going to use a chain guard, just an outer guard ring. There is nothing to prevent the chain from derailing off the inside.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  11. #11
    Rollin 29s
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    He is not going to use a chain guard, just an outer guard ring. There is nothing to prevent the chain from derailing off the inside.
    Actually, I made up one of these:



    Cheesy, but cheap, light weight and effective.

    Got the idea here:

    http://www.mtnbikeriders.com/2007/12...e-chain-guide/

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