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  1. #1
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    Removing Bearings from outboard BB

    I NEED new bearings in my X-Type BB, i've greased them a few times now and the creaking just keeps coming back. (I know its the bearings too cause the sound does go away for a day or two after greasing) I've been looking at Enduro Bearings but the tool to install them is $100. So i was wondering if anyone else makes bearing removal tools.

    Or would it be better off to just get another BB? If thats the case, are Truvativ or Shimano BB's any better w/ their bearing life?

    Thanks Dave
    Last edited by G-VegasMTBiker; 10-04-2006 at 07:09 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Phil Wood make a bearing puller as well, but the price is similar to the Enduro model. I talked to Chris at Enduro and he said that he realizes that the price of the tool is expensive and is willing to do the bearing swap for the price of the bearings ($20 I think). So, the total cost would be the bearings and shipping to and from, plus down time. Give him a call for the details.

    Others have been making their own pullers out of washers and a bolt and nut. It seems to work for them and if you run a search you might find a thread that shows the parts needed.

  3. #3
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    Thanks a lot, I guess i'll have to give him a call
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-VegasMTBiker
    I NEED new bearings in my X-Type BB, i've greased them a few times now and the creaking just keeps coming back. (I know its the bearings too cause the sound does go away for a day or two after greasing) I've been looking at Enduro Bearings but the tool to install them is $100. So i was wondering if anyone else makes bearing removal tools.

    Or would it be better off to just get another BB? If thats the case, are Truvativ or Shimano BB's any better w/ their bearing life?

    Thanks Dave
    To get the old bearings out, remove the crank, leaving the bearings and cups installed in the BB shell. Use a flat head screwdriver, and from the opposite side (through the BB shell), catch the lip of the bearing with the screwdriver, and tap it out with a hammer. To press the new bearings back in, with the cups still installed in the BB shell, get a series of fender washers, a long bolt and a couple nuts and fabricate a cheap press. HTH

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethm
    To get the old bearings out, remove the crank, leaving the bearings and cups installed in the BB shell. Use a flat head screwdriver, and from the opposite side (through the BB shell), catch the lip of the bearing with the screwdriver, and tap it out with a hammer. To press the new bearings back in, with the cups still installed in the BB shell, get a series of fender washers, a long bolt and a couple nuts and fabricate a cheap press. HTH
    Not so easy on some systems. Most of the MTB outboard systems have an "axle guide" integrated into just one of the cups (the one that the axle will be coming through the back side of). They put this there so when one installs the axle, the axle does not catch on the back of the bearing. Problem is, this guide eclipses the bearing edge and won't let a screwdriver or punch "grab" the edge of the bearing. You can modify a punch with a grinder so the end of it drops between the bearing guide and the back of the bearing, but it does involve a bit more than just knocking the bearings out with a screwdriver.

  6. #6
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    Oh, someone kindly mentioned we will press our bearings into your cups at no charge. However, if you don't want to be without your cups for a few days, and you don't want to buy the puller/press, we have one more option now:
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur
    Oh, someone kindly mentioned we will press our bearings into your cups at no charge. However, if you don't want to be without your cups for a few days, and you don't want to buy the puller/press, we have one more option now:

    Nice piece of kit there Chris.

    With the ceramic bearings, are they primarily intended for the XC crowd, or is there a benefit with them for FR/DH as well? Weight? Durability?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007
    Nice piece of kit there Chris.

    With the ceramic bearings, are they primarily intended for the XC crowd, or is there a benefit with them for FR/DH as well? Weight? Durability?
    Good question. There are many claims made about the ceramic hybrid bearings that are sometimes exaggerated. However, they clearly offer superior bearing life and reduced friction. Of course, this supposes that the balls themselve are manufactured to tolerances equal to or better than the chromium steel balls that they are being compared to.... Seals and greases have an affect, as well. As far as handling severe shock better than the chromium steel, I'm not sure they would. I would expect races to break before either type of ball would actually crack or shatter. Sooo... until I know more about it, I'd rather be realistic and say that the real advantage is for high-mileage riders. Of course, it's fine to run them in BB's on more hardcore bikes just because it's cool. I have them on my MKIII, but that is only because I am obligated to test them .

  9. #9
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    Are these available enduro bottom brackets available in Australia? I just bought your bottom bracket tool off an Aussie reseller, but they had no mention of these.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by capnstem
    Are these available enduro bottom brackets available in Australia? I just bought your bottom bracket tool off an Aussie reseller, but they had no mention of these.
    They will be. It's a brand new product for us.

  11. #11
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    Hey Chris - thx for the response. Got another question for you (off thread topic - sorry)

    When I was using the Enduro bottom bracket tool to install and torque my truvativ cups, I made sure they where in as far as they would go, and were on properly. It slipped, and my cups are marred at a consistent depth. How far should the pins in your bottom bracket tool bite in? They only look like they go in half the distance on my truvativ cups. Are they designed more so for shimano cups? Thanks.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by capnstem
    Hey Chris - thx for the response. Got another question for you (off thread topic - sorry)

    When I was using the Enduro bottom bracket tool to install and torque my truvativ cups, I made sure they where in as far as they would go, and were on properly. It slipped, and my cups are marred at a consistent depth. How far should the pins in your bottom bracket tool bite in? They only look like they go in half the distance on my truvativ cups. Are they designed more so for shimano cups? Thanks.
    Sorry to hear that. I will check it out.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by capnstem
    Hey Chris - thx for the response. Got another question for you (off thread topic - sorry)

    When I was using the Enduro bottom bracket tool to install and torque my truvativ cups, I made sure they where in as far as they would go, and were on properly. It slipped, and my cups are marred at a consistent depth. How far should the pins in your bottom bracket tool bite in? They only look like they go in half the distance on my truvativ cups. Are they designed more so for shimano cups? Thanks.
    I have some GXP cups here and checked out the situation using digital calipers. The pins in the cup tool reach within .76mm of the bottom of the pin slots on the cup. When you consider that the end of the cup slots is ovalized, that's pretty much all the way in. Maybe you have a particular cup that we are not familiar with. I can't see how the pins would only reach half way on any of the cups. We have several brands and models of cups here and, while the amount of exposed cup sticking out of the "socket" varies (depending on the cup depth), the slots all start out at the end, so they fit pretty much the same. I know that I have had one "slippage" incident, but it was because I did not keep inward pressure on the tool when I turned it and it slightly cocked just before I applied pressure. Fortunately, I was able to put the tool back on squarely, exert some inward pressure, and remove the cup.

  14. #14
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    Schweeeeeeeeeeet

    Ah yes, Chris gave me a teaser that these would soon be available and now they are. Think I'll have to settle on the normal set though, don't think I can quite roll for the ceramic bearings just yet. By the time I'm done I'll be rollina complete EnduroForkSeals bearinged bike got the Fork Seals and Frame Bearings already, only thing left is these BB cups and maybe Headset bearings.

    Chris I'll soon have the rest of that order to you.
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur
    Oh, someone kindly mentioned we will press our bearings into your cups at no charge. However, if you don't want to be without your cups for a few days, and you don't want to buy the puller/press, we have one more option now:
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Ah yes, Chris gave me a teaser that these would soon be available and now they are. Think I'll have to settle on the normal set though, don't think I can quite roll for the ceramic bearings just yet. By the time I'm done I'll be rollina complete EnduroForkSeals bearinged bike got the Fork Seals and Frame Bearings already, only thing left is these BB cups and maybe Headset bearings.

    Chris I'll soon have the rest of that order to you.
    Thanks! Oh, and we can probably help with your headset bearings, too.

  16. #16
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    I have a spare set of cups that I bought off ebay (the tropical climate I live is not kind on aluminium) - so I will compare. Thanks for checking it out.

  17. #17
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    Will your outboard bearings work with Truvativ GXP?

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur
    Oh, someone kindly mentioned we will press our bearings into your cups at no charge. However, if you don't want to be without your cups for a few days, and you don't want to buy the puller/press, we have one more option now:
    I have stylo gxp cranks and bottom bracket and I would like to run your bottom bracket if it will work.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpenglow
    I have stylo gxp cranks and bottom bracket and I would like to run your bottom bracket if it will work.
    Alpenglow, our bearing replacement kit will work, but I would not recommend the cup set for the GXP system. The GXP system is different than all the others in that the bearings are not side loaded (tensioned from the outside toward each other. The non-drive side crank arm, working with the stepped axle, sandwiches the bearing and sleeve on the non-drive side when fully torqued, so the drive side is "free-floating" (It stays put, but there is no tension on it). What this means is that the spacing on the non-drive side of the GXP is critical so that all the slack is taken up when the crank arm is fully torqued. In order for this to happen, the original TruVativ non-drive spacer/seal must be re-used because the center metal section of the seal is part of the spacing system. The OD of this seal is a tight fit on the GXP system (where it meets the outer part of the cup). It's an even tighter fit on our cups and won't work well. Here's a couple of pics of what takes place when the non-drive crank arm of the GXP system is torqued. The cup is removed so that you can see what happens inside:
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  19. #19
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    Thanks. Do you think that the other systems are superior

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur
    Alpenglow, our bearing replacement kit will work, but I would not recommend the cup set for the GXP system. The GXP system is different than all the others in that the bearings are not side loaded (tensioned from the outside toward each other.
    to the GXP. I am wondering if my crank purchase for my other bike should be truvativ GXP again or shimano or race face.

    Thanks. I'm definately ordering your bearing kit for my GXP.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpenglow
    I am wondering if my crank purchase for my other bike should be truvativ GXP again or shimano or race face.

    Thanks. I'm definately ordering your bearing kit for my GXP.
    I kind of like the adjustable tension and pinchbolt design of the Hollowtech II (also used on some of the FSA cranks). However, I think the GXP method is an interesting concept. I don't think I have enough personal experience with the GXP to make a fair judgement, but I'm going to be messing with one over the next few weeks and I'll let you know. I will say that the fact that the metal shim is necessary on the non-drive side, that it may not make that great of a seal.
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