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  1. #1
    I am Walt
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    Rear cassette - 11/34 or 11/32?

    The last few rear cassettes I've had have been 11/34, but now I'm looking at going to 11/32. Primary reason is being stronger after doing alot of SS-ing at 32:18. Biggest difference seems to be that the gearing on the large cog (32T vs. 34T) will be slight taller, thus slightly "harder" when I want granny-like spinning.

    What do you think? Go with 11/32 or stick with 11/34?
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  2. #2
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    Well there's only what... a 6% difference? You probably won't notice it much except on the most ridiculous climbs. I'm a bit of a weight weenie, so saving a few grams would be nice, but I'm also a climber and I think any gearing that could give me an advantage on a climb is a plus.

    If you wanted to kill two birds with one stone, you could go 32T in the rear and a smaller 20-22T chainring up front. But being a SSer, you're used to low cadence power climbs. I don't think you're going to miss the 2 extra teeth in the rear.

    I think the weight and climbing points are lost on you, leaving cost as the only reason. If you're getting a wicked good deal on a 11-32, grab it. If not... hell, I don't know anymore

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz
    The last few rear cassettes I've had have been 11/34, but now I'm looking at going to 11/32. Primary reason is being stronger after doing alot of SS-ing at 32:18. Biggest difference seems to be that the gearing on the large cog (32T vs. 34T) will be slight taller, thus slightly "harder" when I want granny-like spinning.

    What do you think? Go with 11/32 or stick with 11/34?
    What you need to consider is that being only a 32T instead of 34T effects the other gears on the cassette as well. IN checking my 11-34 gears I found the follwing.....
    9 = 11T
    8 = 13T
    7 = 15T
    6 = 17T
    5 = 20T
    4 = 23T
    3 = 26T
    2 = 30T
    1 = 34T

    You'l notice that from 9th gear to 6th the gear drop by 2 teeth, then the diff between 6th & 5th goes to 3 teeth down to 3rd gear then it jumps to 4 teeth diff between the gears to 1st. With a 11-32T cassett I think the drop would be more consistant throughout the range so you don't have as drastic a drop when you're getting to the easier gears. BTW my cassette is a SRAM PG950.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    What you need to consider is that being only a 32T instead of 34T effects the other gears on the cassette as well.
    You're on the right track.

    Keep in mind that it's not the tooth difference between gears, but the percentage difference. i.e. a 1-tooth gap from 11 to 13 represents an 18% jump, while a 3-tooth gap from 30 to 34 is narrower at 14%. But you're correct that in the general scheme of things, narrower overall range equals closer jumps in spacing.

    It's going to vary between brands and models, but you'll find on the Shimano cassettes they add in a 12T cog on the 32T cassettes, providing a little something between an otherwise very large gap at the high end of the gearing range. Some SRAM cassettes include a 12T cog on both their 32T & 34T cassettes, and make up the difference elsewhere in the range.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by - Jeremy -
    ... a smaller 20-22T chainring up front...
    I believe you can only go 20t front w/ compact drive.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate
    You're on the right track.

    Keep in mind that it's not the tooth difference between gears, but the percentage difference. i.e. a 1-tooth gap from 11 to 13 represents an 18% jump, while a 3-tooth gap from 30 to 34 is narrower at 14%. But you're correct that in the general scheme of things, narrower overall range equals closer jumps in spacing.

    It's going to vary between brands and models, but you'll find on the Shimano cassettes they add in a 12T cog on the 32T cassettes, providing a little something between an otherwise very large gap at the high end of the gearing range. Some SRAM cassettes include a 12T cog on both their 32T & 34T cassettes, and make up the difference elsewhere in the range.
    I think Sram cassettes keep roughly the same spacing as the 11-32 Shimano models but have a huge jump in the last cog in the 34t model. It jumps from 28 to 34t on the last two cogs. The 11-32 keeps the traditional 28 to 32 jump.
    I use both but usually prefer the closer spacing of the 11-32 which is fine for almost anything. The 11-34 comes in handy as a bailout gear in trails with really nasty climbs and helps in avoiding having to drop to the granny. I sometimes change the wheelset/cassette depending on the trail.

  7. #7
    I am Walt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hecubus
    I think Sram cassettes keep roughly the same spacing as the 11-32 Shimano models but have a huge jump in the last cog in the 34t model. It jumps from 28 to 34t on the last two cogs. The 11-32 keeps the traditional 28 to 32 jump.
    I use both but usually prefer the closer spacing of the 11-32 which is fine for almost anything. The 11-34 comes in handy as a bailout gear in trails with really nasty climbs and helps in avoiding having to drop to the granny. I sometimes change the wheelset/cassette depending on the trail.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hecubus
    I think Sram cassettes keep roughly the same spacing as the 11-32 Shimano models but have a huge jump in the last cog in the 34t model. It jumps from 28 to 34t on the last two cogs.
    Well if my SRAM cassett is any indicator it's a 4 tooth jump from 30T to 34T.

    Worst thing Shinao ever did was that stupid a$$ "mega-range" 8 speed where the jump is 8-10 teeth. When I first started riding this is what my bike came with and it stopped me dead to rights on several steep/long climbs when I forgot and changed up from 2 to granny and got that huge jump and my feet went like hell - usually had to get off and walk once that happen as it really killed you and your momentum.

    If it was me I'd go 11-32 as I hardly ever find myself in granny 34T-hardly ever go lower middle-ring, and it would give you a reason to go to the granny front ring. If anyone has the specs for the SRAM 11-32T cassett that would really help.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    If anyone has the specs for the SRAM 11-32T cassett that would really help.
    Here's a quick and dirty comparison:


  10. #10
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    you may want to take a look at this thread: Calling all XC riders - VOTE NOW

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate
    Here's a quick and dirty comparison:

    Thanks for that. I'm glad my PG950 takes after the XT 760, I think I prefer to have the bigger jumps on the higher gears (7,8,9) and smaller on the low gears. I'll have to check on the PG990 rather closely as I was looking at that cassett as my upgrade from the PG950.
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  12. #12
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    Yeah, that 18% skip can be a biach when you're cranking hard in a tall gear.

  13. #13
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    a dissenting voice...

    Code:
    If you can find it, get the Shimano XT M760 12-34 Group 'ap' 9sp.
    It's still available as an XTR M960 for a hefty price.
    
    Down Shifts ---> percent decrease in gearing
    12     14     16     18     20     23     26     30     34
      16.6%  14.3%  12.5%  11.1%  15.0%  13.0%  15.4%  13.3%
    
                    percent increase in gearing <--- Up Shifts
    12     14     16     18     20     23     26     30     34
      14.3%  12.5%  11.1%  10.0%  13.0%  11.5%  13.3%  11.7%
    
    Average
    12     14     16     18     20     23     26     30     34
      15.4%  13.4%  11.8%  10.5%  14.0%  12.2%  14.3%  12.3%
    
    Mated to a triple chain ring crank of GrannyX/GrannyX+8/GrannyX+18
    as in a 24/32/42 gives 13 distinct ratios where the next ratio is
    either a single shift on the rear or a single shift front and rear.
    
    That is, shifting to the next lower gear is either a single down
    shift on the rear or a single up shift on the rear and a down shift
    on the front. Use the reverse for the next higher gear.
    
    Shifting the chain ring only yields a double shift.
    
    michael
    Last edited by mrdy; 05-05-2005 at 06:18 AM. Reason: correct availability
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