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  1. #1
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    Rapid Rise Opinions

    I can see the theory behind using the rapid rise type mech on a MTB, but in practice is it any better than the conventional system? I assume it requires a dedicated shifter pod to mate with it.

    I've never had any great trouble with the usual system but would consider changing if it were light years better.

    What do think?
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Major Clanger View Post
    I can see the theory behind using the rapid rise type mech on a MTB, but in practice is it any better than the conventional system? I assume it requires a dedicated shifter pod to mate with it.

    I've never had any great trouble with the usual system but would consider changing if it were light years better.

    What do think?
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  3. #3
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    I should have checked first but it seems that rapid rise is not made anymore, so the whole thing's a bit of a non-starter. I'd seen a NOS rear mech but by the time I'm used to it it'll be worn out and I'll have to change back to a conventional system.

    Thanks anyway.......
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  4. #4
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    They're a pain in the ass anyways. Most people that bring bikes into the shop I work at with those rear derailers on them want them changed out.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinnyspinspin View Post
    They're a pain in the ass anyways. Most people that bring bikes into the shop I work at with those rear derailers on them want them changed out.
    I think they're AWESOME , so
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  6. #6
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    One of my daughters bike is rapid rise...

    It is a little bit harder to set up than the normal but seems to work just fine.

  7. #7
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    I think the shifters are the same, and only the rear derailleur defines low or top-normal.
    If so, then there is no real downside - if the derailleur breaks or wears out and there isn't another one available, you should be able to install a top-normal one and carry on.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by fsrxc View Post
    I think the shifters are the same, and only the rear derailleur defines low or top-normal.
    If so, then there is no real downside - if the derailleur breaks or wears out and there isn't another one available, you should be able to install a top-normal one and carry on.
    True
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  9. #9
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    +1 for Rapid Rise. I wouldn't say it's light-years better, but I prefer it. Shifting just seems a bit more intuitive. It works for me, at least.

  10. #10
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    ^^^ I will say it works better esp. for gripshifters - the tension feels more equal up/down shifting.
    I also like that the gears (front and rear) shift in the 'same direction' - i.e., same motions make the gear harder, or easier
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll View Post
    ^^^ I will say it works better esp. for gripshifters - the tension feels more equal up/down shifting.
    I also like that the gears (front and rear) shift in the 'same direction' - i.e., same motions make the gear harder, or easier
    X2 on the above. I swapped out a normal RD for a rapid rise on my road bike w/ bar end shifters. Both shifters now move the same direction, down for lower gear, up for higher gears. I tried with them moving opposite for a few months and could never get used to one shifter moving one way and one moving the other way. Was always shifting up instead of down. Putting the same RD on my CX bike. I also like how it shifts down under load much smoother, no need to let off the pedals as much while grinding up a hill when you need to drop a gear. On my touring bike, I moved the normal RD to it and it works OK. That bike has friction mode thumb shifters and they are set up to work properly with the normal RD, so both shifters move forward for lower gears.

    I use the Shimano XT-M770 9sp. RD.

  12. #12
    bt
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll View Post
    I also like that the gears (front and rear) shift in the 'same direction' - i.e., same motions make the gear harder, or easier
    this^^^^
    Last edited by bt; 02-28-2012 at 03:49 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll View Post
    ^^^ I will say it works better esp. for gripshifters - the tension feels more equal up/down shifting.
    I also like that the gears (front and rear) shift in the 'same direction' - i.e., same motions make the gear harder, or easier
    Sorry, only one of my 3 bikes is even capable of shifting, and I'm certainly not putting grip shifters on that one. Maybe if I wanted to feel like I was riding away from a department store in 1994.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinnyspinspin View Post
    Sorry, only one of my 3 bikes is even capable of shifting, and I'm certainly not putting grip shifters on that one. Maybe if I wanted to feel like I was riding away from a department store in 1994.
    lol. I agree with you, but I wouldn't knock his preference. To each his own. I use dual control on one bike (most people hate 'em) and regular clickers on another with a RR der.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlouder View Post
    lol. I agree with you, but I wouldn't knock his preference. To each his own. I use dual control on one bike (most people hate 'em) and regular clickers on another with a RR der.
    Aww, I'm just joking' with high dell.
    I think he knows that.
    ****. Maybe he didn't get it and he thinks I'm a ******.
    Dude, I was totally kidding, if you didn't get that.

    I also was born in 1984, so my first bikes were BMX bikes that didn't shift anyways, and when I got into MTB'ing seriously five years ago I was fortunate enough to get a hand-me-down GT XCR3000 from my pops that had thumb shifters. My opinion on rapid rise is purely from having to work on them on customers' bikes, and I think they're a pain in the ass because I finally started to get good at adjusting regular detailers and the RR stuff is BACKWARDS! So yeah.
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  16. #16
    bt
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    walmart has bike mechanics?

  17. #17
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    you guys are going to make me pick neither of you for prom if you don't quit fighting over me
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  18. #18
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    Wal-mart has everything. Bring your bike by sometime, I'll hook it up.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinnyspinspin View Post
    Wal-mart has everything. Bring your bike by sometime, I'll hook it up.
    walmart huh? can I bring this there?
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  20. #20
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    Highdell, I don't even know what that is. But somehow it's probably depressing and political. Thanks a lot.
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  21. #21
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    depressing? you crazy!
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  22. #22
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    Answering OP:
    I like RR derailleurs. In fact, Ive been using RR since 2003 and never went back.
    By that time Shimano had just released the 960 series XTR which had RR as the ONLY derailleur option as they were suposed to be the natural match to the Dual Control levers also released first time (and as only option too) on that group, so I decided to give it a try. Later on I moved to DC too, which I also liked quite a lot, but thats another story. Becouse of that, people tend to believe RR were exclusive to DC levers, and since DC are gone, so is RR. But thats not true becouse XTR 950 series already had a RR derailleur version (see pic) If Shimano doesnt make them anymore is becouse the newer shadow type derailleur cages and cable routing dont allow for an inverted cable pull and spring position construction (correct me if wrong) but Im sure they would be here otherwise becouse many people like them.
    I also like the "simetrical" lever action resulting from a RR derailleur. But also believe it shifts up easier than with a stdr derailleur. Some state that they are easier on cogs too (not bending), but Ive never had any problem with that on a regular derailleur either, so cant compare...
    What I dont like is that when cable tension is gone, for example when changing cables or building a new bike, the derailleur will move to the larger cog and up there is really annoying for removing the wheel and the upper pulley will rub all the time with the cassete. But thats a minor problem, I guess.
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    Last edited by What&son; 02-29-2012 at 02:33 AM.
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  23. #23
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    Good replies chaps, thanks.....

    I've really confused myself though and Shimano's website is next to useless for archive information....

    I like the sound of RR but if it's on the way out slowly then if seems daft to buy it in case spares are an issue in the future. Tell me though, are M970 rear mechs all RR and M971 high normal, or is the M971 just a later type derailleur?

    I already have the M970 crankset and cassette - 44-32-22 & 32-11 - and want to run a high normal rear mech - does this mean I need the M971? With regards the front mech; it's a HT frame with top pull and research suggests I should be looking at the M971 but I'd appreciate your input.

    Finally (), and I know this is a Q that'll have been asked a million times, but with the ratios I've got would it be better to use a medium cage on the rear mech? I realise that in doing so I'll lose the extreme combos but this doesn't worry me.

    Sorry if these seem silly questions but my search through the interweb has only confused me more - over to y'all................

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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Major Clanger View Post
    I like the sound of RR but if it's on the way out slowly then if seems daft to buy it in case spares are an issue in the future. Tell me though, are M970 rear mechs all RR and M971 high normal, or is the M971 just a later type derailleur?
    I wouldnt care about spare RR parts. The only difference with a stdr derrailleur is actually in the main body (parallelogram), all other little bits are the same, so given the case you would need to replace that, you would be already looking for a whole new derailleur anyway

    Im not sure about the part number for a RR 97xx series. I can check back home though since is the one I have on my bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by Major Clanger View Post
    With regards the front mech; it's a HT frame with top pull and research suggests I should be looking at the M971 but I'd appreciate your input.
    97xx front derailleurs are Dual Pull thanks to a special weird looking cable clamp/routing design. They will move either with a cable pulling from above or from underneath. Up from there they have all the other options: High clamp (also called bottom swing)/Low clamp (also called top swing), E-Type and maybe another I cant remember...

    Quote Originally Posted by Major Clanger View Post
    Finally (), and I know this is a Q that'll have been asked a million times, but with the ratios I've got would it be better to use a medium cage on the rear mech? I realise that in doing so I'll lose the extreme combos but this doesn't worry me.
    Thats an easy one.Go to the second sticky post in this same forum....starts like: "When to use a short cage...?"
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Major Clanger View Post
    I can see the theory behind using the rapid rise type mech on a MTB, but in practice is it any better than the conventional system? I assume it requires a dedicated shifter pod to mate with it.

    I've never had any great trouble with the usual system but would consider changing if it were light years better.

    What do think?
    I wasn't really a fan of the Rapid-Rise rear shifting but I love reversed front derailleures, where the "relaxed" position is the big ring. I'm surprised no companies have revived this concept.
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  26. #26
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    I'm not a fan either. I went rapid rise for a bit because I accidentally bought a rapid rise derailleur online *D'oh!. It didn't really make a difference in my shifting, so I went back after I sold that bike. Maybe it's just a preference thing.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinnyspinspin View Post
    Aww, I'm just joking' with high dell.
    I think he knows that.
    .......
    Didn't notice you were replying to hd. Go ahead and bash away.

  28. #28
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    Sorry to all you RR fans but the die is cast.... I've bought M971 front and rear and have gone for a medium cage. Will report back my findings on how the GS works although since my chain will be slightly shorter (I'm running 32-11) then perhaps the 'problem' of losing the small/small combo won't be so great.

    Thanks for all the input. My wallet is nearly empty but the bike is almost ready to go together....
    Using yesterday's technology, to create tomorrow's problems, today.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Major Clanger View Post
    Thanks for all the input. My wallet is nearly empty but the bike is almost ready to go together....
    Funny how that works, isn't it? Post some pics when it's done.
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  30. #30
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    Ever since changing to "low normal" (RR) I've been hooked. I still have the RD-M960 I bought new. It's survived 1 bent rim, 2 broken spokes, cracked (carbon) bars, saddle, 4 pair of gloves, 3 pair of shorts, 2 bikes, ect...

    To me low normal really comes to life when I suddenly come up to a climb and need to accurately change on way up (without tension). Once I arrive at top, I push lever all the way to quickly get me into the smallest cogs for the downhill.

    I keep searching for a new M960 GS or M970 GS but so far no luck (i know about ebay).

  31. #31
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    After 12 years of Rapid Rise use, I recently switched to normal rise when I upgraded to a 10 speed system. Obviously I had to since RR is no longer offered. Aside from having to train myself to select the correct direction and break an old habit, I can say that the Rapid Rise is superior to the normal rise. Shifts are more crisp on spring return than on cable pull. I find the need for rapid and crisp shifts more prevalent when I'm grabbing for a lower gear on a short steep climb. Rarely am I in as much a hurry to grab bigger gears on a flat or decsent. I also find it more natural to pull back on my trigger finger when climbing than push with my thumb and gauge the amount of push or you select too many gears at once.

  32. #32
    Norwegr
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    RR derailleurs are great, I wish I could get some that weren't 9spd only :/

  33. #33
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    RR and 10 speed can be done people! See here: Shimano R770 Triple 10sp Flatbar Shifter | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com
    Expensive, but hey, 10sp and RR!

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael9218 View Post
    After 12 years of Rapid Rise use, I recently switched to normal rise when I upgraded to a 10 speed system. Obviously I had to since RR is no longer offered. Aside from having to train myself to select the correct direction and break an old habit, I can say that the Rapid Rise is superior to the normal rise. Shifts are more crisp on spring return than on cable pull. I find the need for rapid and crisp shifts more prevalent when I'm grabbing for a lower gear on a short steep climb. Rarely am I in as much a hurry to grab bigger gears on a flat or decsent. I also find it more natural to pull back on my trigger finger when climbing than push with my thumb and gauge the amount of push or you select too many gears at once.
    Agreed' and I will add that 10-speed systems for MTB are stooooopid - nothing more than a 'newer/better' marketing ploy.


    Think about it, when you are changing up/down a gear while MTBing, are you fine-tuning 1 gear???
    No you are going in 3-4-plus tooth changes!
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  35. #35
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    I will preface this post with the fact that my only experience of rapid rise has been with bikes that I've had to repair.

    IT SUCKS!!! I hate rapid rise with a bloody passion! If there is one single iota of a problem with anything in your drivetrain good luck getting them to shift 100% right. And dont even get me started on how much of a pita they are if your cables/ cable guides are even slightly dirty... omg.

    Brand new for brand new though, all things being equal and adjusted properly I could care less though...

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by kcvpr View Post
    I will preface this post with the fact that my only experience of rapid rise has been with bikes that I've had to repair.

    IT SUCKS!!! I hate rapid rise with a bloody passion! If there is one single iota of a problem with anything in your drivetrain good luck getting them to shift 100% right. And dont even get me started on how much of a pita they are if your cables/ cable guides are even slightly dirty... omg.

    Brand new for brand new though, all things being equal and adjusted properly I could care less though...
    Interestingly enough, the old 8 speed RR had a rollamajig built into the derailleur and cable bind was not an issue. The 9 speed did away with this for some reason and caused the issues that some here seem to be voicing. Avid makes a cheap rollamajig to fix this problem, but it's made of plastic and doesn't last long. Shifting is crisp and easy to set up, but you need to replace the plastic rollamajig at the same interval as replacing your cables.

    Here's a picture of the Rollamajig:

    http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps80d694a5.jpg

    Here's a picture of the 8 speed with the built in roller wheel that enabled the cable to make the bend without binding.

    http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps09f9ba95.jpg

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    walmart has bike mechanics?
    That's about what I was thinking.

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