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  1. #1
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    Opinion on Strongest 9 speed chain

    So I was takin a spin around the block yesterday took off cranking on my bike and my chain broke. It's a shimano HG70 (I think), only had it for about a month or more, with about 4 good rides or so and it snapped and of course I bit the dust.

    So now I am interested in another chain. I have read lot of reviews and a lot of people seem to have problems breaking every chain out there.

    Regardless of weight, what do you guys and gals think is a rock solid 9 speed chain that will keep me from picking anymore rocks out of my palms?

  2. #2
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    How bout some gloves?

    Another thread on a different forum recommended KMC X9.99. Everyone had mixed experiences on SRAM or Shimano chains though, with some saying that SRAM chains always broke and Shimanos never did, or vice versa. I think more people were against SRAM chains though.

  3. #3
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    The phrase 'any chain is only as strong as its weakest link' is particularly apt here - Not only for the direct applicability, but to highlight that is often an improperly joined chain that breaks. Just about every brand/model of chain will have its adherents and its naysayers - often vehement in both cases. What more important is making sure the chain is joined properly on installation, maintained regularly during use, and replaced early enough to prevent weaknesses surfacing.
    Rimmer - "There's an old human saying - if you talk garbage, expect pain"

  4. #4
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    Any 9s chain is plenty strong enough, with enough reserve for a gorilla to sprint up an Alpine pass.

    Chains break almost exclusive for one of two reasons.

    1- poor splice with splicing pin not pressed in properly, or not using a designated splicing pin (Shimano or Campagnolo), or connecting link. Modern chains including all 8s, 9s 10s and 11s cannot be cut and spliced by pushing a pin out and back with a chain tool. Cutting is OK, but closing not.

    2- aggressive shifting under load. During the shift the chain rakes a fairly sharp S-bend as it leaves one sprocket and engages another. If this is done under heavy tension the plates can be forced outward on the pins with enough force to work past the peened rivet heads. Once this happens the chain is primed for failure, and at some point one plate will slip off the end of a pin, causing it's partner to break or bend under the load and the chain to part.

    If your broken chain has one plate with no pin at the end, and it's mate folded with the pin still in it, you're shifting under tension and will continue to break chains, all chains, all brands, until you reform your shifting habits.
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    The key to solving any problem is to understand and address the underlying cause.

  5. #5
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    I was told to keep my shifting smooth to avoid breaking the chain,its worked so far.I use the sram though.I replace the chain after 300 miles to help with wear to my cassett and chain rings.

  6. #6
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    As all ready said
    Any good quality 9s chain is plenty strong enough,
    I like Wipperman chains. They come with a good easy to use quick link too.
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    Any 9s chain is plenty strong enough, with enough reserve for a gorilla to sprint up an Alpine pass.

    Chains break almost exclusive for one of two reasons.

    1- poor splice with splicing pin not pressed in properly, or not using a designated splicing pin (Shimano or Campagnolo), or connecting link. Modern chains including all 8s, 9s 10s and 11s cannot be cut and spliced by pushing a pin out and back with a chain tool. Cutting is OK, but closing not.

    2- aggressive shifting under load. During the shift the chain rakes a fairly sharp S-bend as it leaves one sprocket and engages another. If this is done under heavy tension the plates can be forced outward on the pins with enough force to work past the peened rivet heads. Once this happens the chain is primed for failure, and at some point one plate will slip off the end of a pin, causing it's partner to break or bend under the load and the chain to part.

    If your broken chain has one plate with no pin at the end, and it's mate folded with the pin still in it, you're shifting under tension and will continue to break chains, all chains, all brands, until you reform your shifting habits.

    I probably could work on my shifting a bit, but I do make an attempt at not shifting while cranking away. Also, I actually put this particular chain together with a KMC speed link, the chain broke 20 or so links away from the speed link.

  8. #8
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    I've used Sram, Shimano and KMC chains. I have never broken a chain because I try to avoid shifting under heavy loads and I also use joining connectors like the KMC Missing Link or the Sram Powerlink on my Shimano chains to avoid using the pin, which mentioned above, if installed improperly can cause a chain to break.

  9. #9
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    Since you did use a speed link, if you're confident that your shifting is ok then I'd just chalk it up to random change and move on. Defects happen, and even if it's extremely rare, someone out there has to be the 0.1% that gets a faulty chain. If it happens again then it's time to investigate further

  10. #10
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    I took the chain back by my LBS and they took care of me and replaced the chain. I had to show them a few things though to convince them, once I showed them where the correct pin was used to install the chain and that it was still in place, and once I showed them my bruises they agreed to replace the chain since I had bought it so recently.

    I did request a SRAM chain in lieu of Shimano, the chain actually looks more solid and seems to actually shift a bit smoother than the Shimano chain I used.

    Good job Local Bike Shop! I WILL be back!!

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