ok what am I doing wrong ??
I cannot seem to get my cassettes to tighten down properely, I have a mix of xt and xtr casettes, some old, some brand new, the riveted sections, 5 on the old xtr and 6 cogs on the new xt are rattling fits.
When they are tightened up there is about 1mm of vertical movement and about the same or a little more in a lateral direction and heres were it gets confusing from my point of view, the non riveted cogs are tight and have no discernable freeplay .
The hubs are almost new CK with no sign of wear.
Clearly I am doing something wrong but I what, please help as this driving me nuts and its screwing up my shifting, thnx in advance Paul
Old man on a bike
There's been some issues with the CK/Shimano XT combo, I've experienced similar as you, basically the solution is that you can put a thin spacer behind the cassette (some have had success in getting one with an XT cassette, or having Shimano send one out), or use a lockring that has more threads (CK sells one; I found one from an older Shimano cassette I had in the garage).
"...the people get the government they deserve..."
Years ago I found the spline groove on 11/12 tooth on the Shimano cassette were just grooved at different depths. Used an old one and it usually solved everything.
Then i got into doing single speed conversions. I found spacer stacks that fit '02 Mavic hubs came up loose on a replacement '05 Mavic hub body. A pair of calipers confirmed the hub was bigger. I found the same thing with Shimano XT hubs.
My theory is that its either the hub or cassette or both. Am classic includes a thin shim with their hubs that work great, I second trying a shim in there.
Mavic makes a washer that has the splines like a cassette that I use to take up slop on my crossmax wheels. One usally does the trick.
i had a problem with my CK/XT setup and with enough spacing behind the cassette, there was only like one or two threads engaging on the lockring. the shop tried a Sram cassette and the problem is gone. i didn't want to go to a Sram cassette, but it is WAY better than 1) loose cassette or 2) stripped freewheel body/lockring from not enough threads engaging.
It should only take a wafer thin shim to tighten things up. Sounds like the spline groove on the 11/12 cog was not cut deep enough.
Originally Posted by mechmann_mtb