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  1. #1
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    Nokon shift cable entusiasts - please help with my rear d shift problem

    Hi there,

    I know a lot of people think that compressionless cabling systems are a waste and that with their price tag, they're overkill, etc. Hopefully based on my title above, I have the attention of those who love the Nokon cabling/housing systems. I am having a real PITA of an issue on my trail bike - not really relevant but it's a Kona Dawg that I'm running full a rear XT Rapidrise Mega9 or whatever the hell it's actually called. Anyway, the rear D will get stuck or act very lazy since I have installed the Nokon cabling. I have searched high and low with no luck so here are my concerns:

    Have any of you ever had the wrong diameter liner shipped from Nokon? (it seems a little too tight).

    Is there any difference between a teflon coated XTR 1.2mm cable and the stock Nokon?

    I ran the full length of cable in the liner with some triflow and worked it in a little first. The is only one liner used end to end. I used Nokon's ferrules at every boss...

    Would using the XTR cables cause this problem? Can anyone suggest a cable with a smaller diameter than 1.2mm or do you know if Nokon makes a liner for something like a 1.5??

    I ran this same system on another bike and had no issues. I didn't know if maybe I needed a better spring in my rear D or not but it seems that the cable has resistance somewhere and I was terribly cautious to avoid that (I also pulled everything out and redid it all just in case only to end up with the same problem).

    I have not called Nokon yet but I will shortly....

    Thanks for any and all advice. Is there any 'trick' to connecting the cable/housing to the rear D in terms of where it enters the adjuster? I left maybe 1/4" of cable inside the adjuster but ran housing/ferrule right to the adjuster itself. hrmmmm....

    Thanks for any and all help.
    Andrew.

  2. #2
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    i've found that the XTR teflon coated stuff does NOT play well with triflow at all. it always gums up and causes craptacular shifting

  3. #3
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Pitbull
    i've found that the XTR teflon coated stuff does NOT play well with triflow at all. it always gums up and causes craptacular shifting
    Agreed. I do not use any lube with Teflon coated cables.

    I use Jagwire T-coated cables with Nokon housing with no issues.
    mtbtires.com
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for the reply and the examples. Maybe this is why when I used a 1.2mm SRAM cable I didn't have any friction issues. I have lubed XTR with Triflow before although never in such a tight liner. Yikes I may have created a monster . If anyone is interested, I will post my fix once I've figured it out. I did send an email to Nokon also.

    Do you know if there is a problem running one full length of liner? I didn't think so but the manufacturer's installation recommendations show a segmented installation (I figured simply for access/oiling but I am not 100% sure that my one piece liner isn't causing some of the finicky behaviour.......

    Thanks again gang,

    Andrew.

  5. #5
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    I do the opposite on my road bike, I just run the liner form the shifter t the downtube barrel adjusters, than trim the liner and run bare cable to the rear der loop and use liner in the read der loop, the brakes however get full liner.

    On my MTB: liner from shifter to der with the cut section to allow me to lube easier. I have a feeling the teflon on the XTR cable is starting to peel off and causing it shift like poo

  6. #6
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by neex
    Do you know if there is a problem running one full length of liner? I didn't think so but the manufacturer's installation recommendations show a segmented installation (I figured simply for access/oiling but I am not 100% sure that my one piece liner isn't causing some of the finicky behaviour.......

    Thanks again gang,

    Andrew.
    There may be. If the cable stop is pinching the liner at the exit it may be binding up the cable. If so, you could file out the stops a little.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  7. #7
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    i have a better result with the combination of nokon and power cordz cable and liner ... not cheap cost a lot but working like a hot knife in butter !!!

    http://www.powercordz.com/catalog/pr...products_id=32

    http://www.powercordz.com/catalog/pr...products_id=29

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by stduoo7
    i have a better result with the combination of nokon and power cordz cable and liner ... not cheap cost a lot but working like a hot knife in butter !!!

    http://www.powercordz.com/catalog/pr...products_id=32

    http://www.powercordz.com/catalog/pr...products_id=29

    Just the kind of advice I was looking for! Thanks a bunch!

    Take care,
    Andrew.

  9. #9
    Hack Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by neex
    Just the kind of advice I was looking for! Thanks a bunch!

    Take care,
    Andrew.
    I disagree with that setup. I have used that setup before. The only thing I agree is that it is not cheap. It does not shift better. If you use the powercordz liner, that liner kinks very easily. Once you put a kink/fold into the liner the powercordz or even a steel cable drags horribly inside.

    YMMV. My was horrible. My 2 cents.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheers!
    I disagree with that setup. I have used that setup before. The only thing I agree is that it is not cheap. It does not shift better. If you use the powercordz liner, that liner kinks very easily. Once you put a kink/fold into the liner the powercordz or even a steel cable drags horribly inside.

    YMMV. My was horrible. My 2 cents.

    This feedback is also great. Thanks. I have a 16 second question unrelated question perhaps anyway... Do you think that it might be hampering the resistance of the cable by using a rapid rise rear mech? I know that the normal rise XT rear D has an adjustable return spring tension wheras as far as I can see, the rapid rise doesn't. Maybe being able to wind up the tension would overcome any resistance issues created by the liner.....

    Thanks again,
    Andrew.

  11. #11
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    If a 1.2mm wire was coated with teflon if might be a bit over 1.2mm final size. Before going nuts I'd try a 1.1mm uncoated stainless die drawn wire and see if that solves your problem. 1.1mm is fairly common for inner wire these days, and the added clearance may be just what you need.

    If you can't source one locally, PM me & I'll make you a deal for one wire by mail.

    francis
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    The key to solving any problem is to understand and address the underlying cause.

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