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  1. #1
    New York City
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    Need help removing Truvativ Firex 3.3's (GXP)

    Hi folks:

    Need a hand here. I've searched the web and this forum and can't find anything that clearly explains how to remove the cranks that I have. I have Truvativ Firex 3.3's on my Cdale. I'm trying to remove the cranks so that I can take the 22T ring off. I understand that these are a GXP type of crank. Does that mean that there is a self extracting piece in the non-drive crank arm?

    I took the outter cap off and then unscrewed the 8mm piece from inside the crank arm and that's where I am. I have crank extractors so I put the 8mm piece back in then threaded the crank extractor into the few larger diameter threads available on the crank arm. I made sure it was snug, but ended up ripping the larger diameter threads out of the crank arm when I tried extracting.

    What am I doing wrong and what do I need to get these cranks off?

    Thanks in advance,
    Arby



    phattire.net
    bikin' & bloggin' in NYC

  2. #2
    mbtr member
    Reputation: scottzg's Avatar
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    just wiggle the crank arm, it will come off. While they're off, pitch those horrible things and get some good cranks.
    .

  3. #3
    Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
    Reputation: kwarwick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arby
    Hi folks:

    Need a hand here. I've searched the web and this forum and can't find anything that clearly explains how to remove the cranks that I have. I have Truvativ Firex 3.3's on my Cdale. I'm trying to remove the cranks so that I can take the 22T ring off. I understand that these are a GXP type of crank. Does that mean that there is a self extracting piece in the non-drive crank arm?

    I took the outter cap off and then unscrewed the 8mm piece from inside the crank arm and that's where I am. I have crank extractors so I put the 8mm piece back in then threaded the crank extractor into the few larger diameter threads available on the crank arm. I made sure it was snug, but ended up ripping the larger diameter threads out of the crank arm when I tried extracting.

    What am I doing wrong and what do I need to get these cranks off?

    Thanks in advance,
    Arby



    I believe the idea is to keep that outer diameter ring in place and unscrew the bolt inside of it... once it backs out enough to butt up against that outer ring it acts like a built in crank extractor... just keep unscrewing that bolt and it will push the crank off the arm.

  4. #4
    Former Bike Wrench
    Reputation: mtnbiker72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottzg
    While they're off, pitch those horrible things and get some good cranks.
    Based on your what?...The FireX is actually a very reliable entry level external bearing crankset...your advice to pitch them is crap.

    OP, the reinstall the bolt and the outer ring...then only unscrew the bolt, as it pushes against the outer ring it will self extract. Unlike the Shimano version, the Truvativ cranks are press fit on the end of the axle and will not wiggle off as the above poster's mis-informed opinion would suggest.

  5. #5
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    Reputation: zebrahum's Avatar
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    While it is true that is a self extracting crank bolt, if you really did rip out the threads, you may not have any luck screwing the cap back in. In that case you may be a candidate for the hammer/punch/new left crank arm method.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  6. #6
    New York City
    Reputation: Arby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottzg
    just wiggle the crank arm, it will come off. While they're off, pitch those horrible things and get some good cranks.
    Not very helpful.

    Also these cranks work fantastic. No chain suck, no broken teeth after ring-digging over countless logs. I'll upgrade when I feel the need.

    Arby
    phattire.net
    bikin' & bloggin' in NYC

  7. #7
    New York City
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    screwed.

    Quote Originally Posted by zebrahum
    While it is true that is a self extracting crank bolt, if you really did rip out the threads, you may not have any luck screwing the cap back in. In that case you may be a candidate for the hammer/punch/new left crank arm method.

    Yep, pretty sure I screwed the pooch this time and wiped the threads out. I'll have to wait till monday and see what size taps we have in the shop. Hopefully I can chase the threads and get the cap to hold for the extraction.

    Thanks
    phattire.net
    bikin' & bloggin' in NYC

  8. #8
    New York City
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    Got it!

    Thanks for your help everyone. Though I did strip a couple of the crank arm threads, I was able to save it. I did the following:
    • I took the inner jack screw out completely
    • Cleaned the threads in the crank arm as best I could to remove burrs
    • lubed up a fairly new crank extractor and threaded it as far in as possible working it like a tap
    • Reinstalled the jack screw
    • Carefully reinstalled the cap screw
    • Used an allen screw attachment with my socket wrench and jacked the crank off of the spindle.


    I was finally able to remove my 22T ring. Thanks for the help!
    Arby
    phattire.net
    bikin' & bloggin' in NYC

  9. #9
    Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
    Reputation: kwarwick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arby
    Thanks for your help everyone. Though I did strip a couple of the crank arm threads, I was able to save it. I did the following:
    • I took the inner jack screw out completely
    • Cleaned the threads in the crank arm as best I could to remove burrs
    • lubed up a fairly new crank extractor and threaded it as far in as possible working it like a tap
    • Reinstalled the jack screw
    • Carefully reinstalled the cap screw
    • Used an allen screw attachment with my socket wrench and jacked the crank off of the spindle.

    I was finally able to remove my 22T ring. Thanks for the help!
    Arby
    Good job! Yeah, the 22T ring is probably the only significant weak aspect of this crank. Mine developed sharkfin teeth and started skipping way too early in the life of these cranks. I ended up replacing it with a BlackSpire stainless steel ring and all has been good since.

  10. #10
    Picture Unrelated
    Reputation: zebrahum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arby
    Thanks for your help everyone. Though I did strip a couple of the crank arm threads, I was able to save it. I did the following:
    • I took the inner jack screw out completely
    • Cleaned the threads in the crank arm as best I could to remove burrs
    • lubed up a fairly new crank extractor and threaded it as far in as possible working it like a tap
    • Reinstalled the jack screw
    • Carefully reinstalled the cap screw
    • Used an allen screw attachment with my socket wrench and jacked the crank off of the spindle.


    I was finally able to remove my 22T ring. Thanks for the help!
    Arby
    Good to hear, and now you know! I would recommend getting a new crank arm though, If you have to take it off again, you might not be so lucky that those threads held. But hey, there's always a big enough hammer somewhere.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  11. #11
    mbtr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Based on your what?...The FireX is actually a very reliable entry level external bearing crankset...your advice to pitch them is crap.

    the Truvativ cranks are press fit on the end of the axle and will not wiggle off as the above poster's mis-informed opinion would suggest.
    I had one of these 'cranksets,' they are by far the worst pile of cycling equipment i have ever owned; i went through 3 crank arms before i gave up. First crank arm was set up with a torque wrench and self extracting bolts as you would expect. 4 months later it started to wiggle. Interface dead. 2nd crank arm was blue loctited everywhere and installed in different positions before final installation as per advice from sram. 8 months later, wiggle- interface dead. 3rd crank arm, screw it, this one isn't going to ever come off. Red loctite and tons of torque on a steel fixing bolt (for a 5d crank, iirc) that i found in the parts bin. That set up lasted almost a year before the drive side press fitting failed.

    They were replaced with some 12$ crank arms on an XT square taper bb, which has been going strong for 2 years now.

    Garbage.
    Last edited by scottzg; 05-01-2010 at 08:06 PM.
    .

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