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  1. #1
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    Making the switch to 1x9....

    The last twelve months have resulted in good fitness gains, often resulting in my not using the granny ring on my current 36-24 F and 11 - 34 R setup. I have therefore decided to make the switch to a 1x9 setup, although I am very new to this concept, I am relying on you good people for some advice.

    The potential component list include:

    Raceface Atlas AM Crankarms.
    Hope Ceramic BB.
    E Thirteen 34T Chainring.
    Shimano XT 11 - 34 Cassette.
    MRP Mini-Me System 3 Chain Device with a Gamut P20 Bashguard.

    Is this combination fit for purpose? Or can anybody make any ammendments based on experience? I am looking for an effective chain device that is easy to install and quiet.

    Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Id start with a 32T chainring. You'll have plenty of top-end and it will give you a bit more for climbing. I race with a 32T and 11/34 and never run out of gear. Any specific reason you're getting a new crankset? You should be able to use your existing cranks and just replace the ring with a SS version. I'm not familiar with the mini-me setup but I'm using the MRP 1.x and it works well if you don't need a bashguard. I relly like the look of the new E.13 model for 1x9. I'd save the money from the cranks and get a short cage RD. You don't need the capacity of a long cage with the 1x9 and will be able to take several links from the chain.

  3. #3
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    Sounds great and I personally want to thank you for doing it the right way,using a chainguide!!!

    While I understand Floxy's position, Id say since your already stepping down a ring size from 36 to a 34 and your already using the 36 without issue, not need to go so far as to drop to 32. Honestly if you using the 36t already why not just go 36 on the single?? You'll keep the gains you already have and get stronger faster.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Sounds great and I personally want to thank you for doing it the right way,using a chainguide!!!

    While I understand Floxy's position, Id say since your already stepping down a ring size from 36 to a 34 and your already using the 36 without issue, not need to go so far as to drop to 32. Honestly if you using the 36t already why not just go 36 on the single?? You'll keep the gains you already have and get stronger faster.
    I wouldn't say he's "stepping down" from a 36T. He's got a granny to fall back on today. Unless someone is regularly using the smallest half of their casette I see no reason to go with anything more than a 32T. I can't think of the last time I used my 32-11 even in a race.

  5. #5
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by floxy
    I wouldn't say he's "stepping down" from a 36T. He's got a granny to fall back on today. Unless someone is regularly using the smallest half of their casette I see no reason to go with anything more than a 32T. I can't think of the last time I used my 32-11 even in a race.
    I think 32T is pretty much the "default" gear and the best choice for most riders. If you're stronger than average, you might want to try a 34. But I agree that a 36 is overkill on the high end and not enough on the low.
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  6. #6
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    Many thanks for your informative replies. I think a 32T up front would probably be best to start with. I must admit, I do struggle with the 36T up front on the climbs, but as Floxy quite rightly stated - I have a 24T granny to fall back on, of which I sometimes do when the legs are really tired.

    I have also looked into a 10 speed cassette, but prefer the 32T option as I won't have to change my shifters and cassette.
    I stated earlier that I was going to use the MRP chain guide, but have now decided on a combination of:

    Gamut P20
    E Thirteen SRS+

    By my calculations, this equates to 231g, which is pretty lightweight considering I will be loosing a 24T chain ring, XTR shifter and XTR front mech. I hope it proves to be a meaningful and lasting relationship.

  7. #7
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by lornibear
    I stated earlier that I was going to use the MRP chain guide, but have now decided on a combination of:

    Gamut P20
    E Thirteen SRS+

    By my calculations, this equates to 231g.
    It also equates to around $250. For $50, you can get a BB mount MRP 1x, which is lighter still (less parts, no bash) and does the job.

    Or, if your want a tensioner too, G-2 or mini G-2 for another $50 +/-

    Just my $0.02
    Last edited by dwt; 12-06-2010 at 08:08 AM.
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  8. #8
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    Great info there dwt, many thanks. I will have a look at them although everything is expensive in the UK.

  9. #9
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by lornibear
    Great info there dwt, many thanks. I will have a look at them although everything is expensive in the UK.
    Well that sucks. I will be on vacation in London end of the month. Never been there before. Do they still like Yanks, or hate them like everybody else?
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  10. #10
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    I am sure you will be well looked after.....

    Quote Originally Posted by dwt
    Well that sucks. I will be on vacation in London end of the month. Never been there before. Do they still like Yanks, or hate them like everybody else?
    UK is the same as anywhere really - there is good and bad in all. London has such a diverse population and is becoming more so. You will be well looked after and I hope you enjoy your visit.

  11. #11
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    Hi Lornibear,

    Either our Mini G2, newer Mini G2 SL, or MiniMe System 3 (or the forthcoming S4) will work quite nicely. I assume this is for your Nicolai Helius? I wouldn't recomend the 1x for a bike with that much travel.

    The System style guides are a bit quieter than the G2's b/c they use rollers in place of a an upper guide and lower pulley, though I can't say the G2 (or G2 SL) are noisy.

    Chainreaction has the MiniMe System 3 on clearance for 88, which include the outer bash (though I'm not 100% that the alloy bash will clear the arms on a Race Face crank. I'll be happy to check for you if you'd like). The Partycrasher (thats our PC guide) version should be fine. I think your Nicolai has standard ISCG tabs.


    This is the Mini G2 SL as mounted on my Knolly Endorphin. It has an integrated ski plate, so there is no need for a crank-mounted bashguard. We'll have colored models in 2011, currently we offer just black or white.

    And this is the forthcoming S4 (replaces the S3)


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  12. #12
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    Hi Lornibear,

    Either our Mini G2, newer Mini G2 SL, or MiniMe System 3 (or the forthcoming S4) will work quite nicely. I assume this is for your Nicolai Helius? I wouldn't recomend the 1x for a bike with that much travel.
    What he said. My 1 x 9 is an xc hardtail, and the 1x is perfect for that.
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  13. #13
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    Thanks for the tips there. I am just a little confused so please forgive me - I am planning to use the Raceface Atlas crank arms with a 32T front chain ring. Even though this crank is designed to be a triple chainset, can I still use the mini G2 sl?
    I am happy to drop the bash ring, but would like to retain the triple chainset capability if I don't 'get on' with the 1 x 9 setup.
    Again forgive my ignorance on the the topic, I am relatively inexperienced when it comes to chain guides and single ring setups.

    Any further advice you can provide would be most welcome.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by lornibear
    Even though this crank is designed to be a triple chainset, can I still use the mini G2 sl? I am happy to drop the bash ring, but would like to retain the triple chainset capability if I don't 'get on' with the 1 x 9 setup.
    Yup, and I believe you can order that crank without the rings if don't have it already. What makes a SS specific crank different from a triple is the exclusion of mounting tabs for a granny ring, but weather not the crank is a single or triple makes no difference to the chainguide. It is recommended however that you use a single-speed chainring (ie one without ramps) with a 1x9 or 1x10 setup. While you can simply use the middle ring from the existing setup, singlespeed rings are generally thicker and stiffer and will give you more dependable performance, especially over the longterm.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by floxy
    I wouldn't say he's "stepping down" from a 36T. He's got a granny to fall back on today. Unless someone is regularly using the smallest half of their casette I see no reason to go with anything more than a 32T. I can't think of the last time I used my 32-11 even in a race.

    Did you even read the OP's post..

    Quote Originally Posted by lornibear
    The last twelve months have resulted in good fitness gains, often resulting in my not using the granny ring on my current 36-24 F and 11 - 34 R setup.
    Hes hasnt really been using his granny!!! What about that dont you get, that if hes mostly using a 36T now, then stepping down, yep I said it, to a 32T is like pedaling backwards!!!!

    WOW, amazing!!!
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Did you even read the OP's post..



    Hes hasnt really been using his granny!!! What about that dont you get, that if hes mostly using a 36T now, then stepping down, yep I said it, to a 32T is like pedaling backwards!!!!

    WOW, amazing!!!
    Wow, amazing that you got all belligerent for no reason. Chill man!

    The fact that he is often not using the granny, doesn't mean he never is, and later he made that clear:
    I must admit, I do struggle with the 36T up front on the climbs, but as Floxy quite rightly stated - I have a 24T granny to fall back on, of which I sometimes do when the legs are really tired.
    And floxy's point was valid: Unless he is spending a lot of time on the small half of the cassete with the 36, he could go down to a 32, and still have the high gears he needs, while having lower gears for climbing. That's all.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    What makes a SS specific crank different from a triple is the exclusion of mounting tabs for a granny ring, but weather not the crank is a single or triple makes no difference to the chainguide. It is recommended however that you use a single-speed chainring (ie one without ramps) with a 1x9 or 1x10 setup. While you can simply use the middle ring from the existing setup, singlespeed rings are generally thicker and stiffer and will give you more dependable performance, especially over the longterm.
    That is indeed fantastic advice - many thanks! I did not know about using a SS chain ring up front.

  18. #18
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Did you even read the OP's post..
    Did you read the OP's second post:

    Many thanks for your informative replies. I think a 32T up front would probably be best to start with. I must admit, I do struggle with the 36T up front on the climbs, but as Floxy quite rightly stated - I have a 24T granny to fall back on, of which I sometimes do when the legs are really tired.
    He has been using his granny!!! What about that don't you get?

    32T is the right gear for most riders, 1 x 9 or 1 x 10.

    If you are one of the few who can push a 36T, wow, that's great, but BFD.
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  19. #19
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    Perhaps an offering from.....


  20. #20
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    Yeah those look super nice! We also make them, our Podium rings. Chromag makes some killer looking ones too.

    Any of those, or dozens more. Basically, I'd look for one from a small company that specializes in high-end components, the finish quality and tolerances are always gonna be better. You're gonna be in that ring all-the-time, so get a good one!

    You're looking for 4B 104BCD, btw.
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  21. #21
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    The Chromag rings look superb indeed - I think I have found my first purchase

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    Yeah those look super nice! We also make them, our Podium rings. Chromag makes some killer looking ones too.

    Woops! Did you just send your potential customer to the competition??

  23. #23
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    If I sent business anywhere, I'm glad it was Chromag. Those guys make great stuff, we just both happen to make chainrings. Sorry, I'll be more cut-throat next time.
    Last edited by NoahColorado; 12-07-2010 at 08:15 AM.
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  24. #24
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    Interesting thread, I have a three speed front crank, but nearly six months ago I took my front derailleur, cabling and selector off my bike. I leave my bike on my 32t middle chain ring 99% of the time, but occasionally the chain falls off obviously, and I have been thinking of switching over to a middleburn SS 32t ring with chain a guide.

    I want to keep my original Truvativ Stylo GXP cranks, but as far as I can see I need different bolts?

  25. #25
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by lew242
    I want to keep my original Truvativ Stylo GXP cranks, but as far as I can see I need different bolts?
    If you take off the 44T and don't replace it with a bashguard, you will need spacers for the bolts equal in thickness to the ring you removed to mount your new 32T. You can buy more than you need (which is 4) for a price you shouldn't need to pay at Jenson, or maybe ask your LBS.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...cer+Bag20.aspx

    But, you have various options for an optimum system and I suggest e-mailing Noah who is posting in this thread for which of the MRP chain guides is best for your bike. Some come with a bash, some don't.

    I have a hardtail xc 1 x 9, and use the MRP 1x with no bash.
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