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  1. #1
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    Lubrication questions???? help!

    so my bike got wet and muddy and now i got it cleaned and i want to lube it but i cant find a straight answer about lubrication. what all do i need to lube up and what do i need to use to do it??

  2. #2
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    if you ride in mostly wet conditions use a wet chain lube, dry , a dry lube. put 1 drop on each chain roller, let it sit for 20 mins. wipe off as much as you can
    thats about it for lube, most of the bearings and pivots arent user servicable and when they go dry you have to replace them.

    check this out
    Basic Cleaning and Maintenance Guide

  3. #3
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    even though the bearings and pivots aren't servciceable it still helps to add a little lube to them, its a quick fix for a squeaky pivot that will eventually need to be taken apart and regreased

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    is there anything wrong using dry lube, it seems like everyone has a differnet opinion

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldjoe38
    is there anything wrong using dry lube, it seems like everyone has a differnet opinion
    Dry lubes are usually wax in a carrier solution. They work great for dusty and dirty conditions, but a good soaking will kill the lubrication in a hurry.

    Wet lubes are oil, and keep working in wet and muddy conditions. But add a bunch of dust and sand to it, and it turns into grinding paste.

    I use White Lightning, a dry lube. I live in the high desert. This lube works good for me, I need to use a bunch of it, and often. If I was riding through streams, mud puddles, or the rain, it would be pretty useless.

    Internet reviews do not care where you live. Your drivetrain does. Ask what the locals are using.

  6. #6
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    so basically i can use the dry lube but if it rains or anything gets wet i should relube it? also, waht should i do about my baerings and pivots after a muddy ride and a big rain?

  7. #7
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    Pedros Ice wax works great for me when its wet. I also like Finish line.
    Both keep the drivetrain nice and quiet. As far as pivots go I just to wipe them off.
    I been reading its not good to use a high pressure hose as it can force dirt where you dont want it. For me I focus on keeping the drivetrain clean and lubed. I wipe down the chain and lube after everyride. The bottle of lube your using will give you directions. Some have you lube wait and then wipe down and then lube and let it dry. All depends on what your using.

  8. #8
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    bushings arent usually lubed at all, and frame bearings are sealed as well as bottom bracket. when you get your bike dirty, wash it and lube the chain, squirting lube all over the bearings will just dilute and wash away the grease. some people like the wax lube, I never thought much of it. stick with something like finish line dry.
    if you do alot of muddy wet riding you will be replacing the frame bearings/ bushings pretty regularly and you will see that theres not much you can do as far as lubeing them

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpshooter
    even though the bearings and pivots aren't servciceable it still helps to add a little lube to them, its a quick fix for a squeaky pivot that will eventually need to be taken apart and regreased
    most bushings dont require and arent recomended to be lubed as lube attracts dirt and causes wear, and if you squirt chain lube on sealed bearings you will dilute and wash away the grease

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldjoe38
    so basically i can use the dry lube but if it rains or anything gets wet i should relube it? also, waht should i do about my baerings and pivots after a muddy ride and a big rain?
    didnt read the previous post with the link for maintenance?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by laurenlex
    Dry lubes are usually wax in a carrier solution. They work great for dusty and dirty conditions, but a good soaking will kill the lubrication in a hurry.
    This depends on the lube. Boeshield, for example, is a wax-based lube that works VERY well in wet conditions (and actually stays relatively clean in dry conditions.)

    Larry

  12. #12
    Slow climbin' clyde
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    Quote Originally Posted by lalittle
    Boeshield, for example, is a wax-based lube that works VERY well in wet conditions (and actually stays relatively clean in dry conditions.)
    Someone recommended Boeshield to me when I moved to the Bay Area and it's really fantastic. Between road and dirt I ride 150-200 miles a week and it's been great in all conditions. Spendy, but worth it IMHO.

  13. #13
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    What about lubing a new chain? I just bought a new SRAM 971 chain, and installed it tonight. It felt lubed to the touch (and left some grease stains on the carpet). Should I lube it again anyways before the first ride on the new chain?

  14. #14
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    snip

  15. #15
    Slow climbin' clyde
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalNhobbs
    What about lubing a new chain? I just bought a new SRAM 971 chain, and installed it tonight. It felt lubed to the touch (and left some grease stains on the carpet). Should I lube it again anyways before the first ride on the new chain?
    I've always been told yes. The rationale I've understood is that new chains are lubed to keep from corroding during shipping and while in inventory.
    Last edited by scottyperkins; 06-17-2007 at 10:17 AM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottyperkins
    I've always been told yes. The rationale I've understood is that new chains are lubed to keep from corroding during shipping and while in inventory.
    You don't need to re-lube a new chain.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

    "Factory Lube

    New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.

    This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.

    Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!

    The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube. "

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by womble
    You don't need to re-lube a new chain.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

    "Factory Lube

    New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.

    This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.

    Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!

    The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube. "
    not true, if you leave that stuff on your chain you will pick up all kinds of grit and dirt which will wear out the chain and the gears, that grease is to keep the chain from corroding during shipping and storage.
    wash your chain off with a good degreaser until its not sticky anymore , then lube it with a quality chain lube, the chain lube will penetrate all the rollers and pins and lube them , after 20 min to an hour wipe off as much as you can with a dry rag and you will have a nice clean lubed chain that wont attract dirt.
    if the grease on the chain is such a superior lubricant how come nobody uses it exept on new chains? how come nobody recommends grease for a chain? use a little common sense

    ps if you read the disclaimer "This article is based on my personal and professional experience and my own theories"
    in other words no factual proof
    how abouty someone from shimano or sram weighing in ?

  18. #18
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    I use TriFlow (think thats then name). I also take my chain off every week (or more if needed) and clean it with Simple Green. That gets everything out from the links, then wash it off, install and relube..

  19. #19
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    Leave Sram chains alone

    Sram chains come with a killer lube new, just install it and ride it for a month and it will rock. On the other hand Shimano chains use a cosmolene protector that you must remove before using or you will have a nice grinding paste on your chain to really mess it up.
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan0
    ps if you read the disclaimer "This article is based on my personal and professional experience and my own theories"
    in other words no factual proof
    how abouty someone from shimano or sram weighing in ?
    Yeah, and that "personal and personal experience" happens to be that of Sheldon Brown. Backed up by Jobst Brandt. Who in combination have more professionally practical and engineering-based experience than these forums combined

    Quote Originally Posted by dan0
    not true, if you leave that stuff on your chain you will pick up all kinds of grit and dirt which will wear out the chain and the gears, that grease is to keep the chain from corroding during shipping and storage.
    wash your chain off with a good degreaser until its not sticky anymore , then lube it with a quality chain lube, the chain lube will penetrate all the rollers and pins and lube them , after 20 min to an hour wipe off as much as you can with a dry rag and you will have a nice clean lubed chain that wont attract dirt.
    if the grease on the chain is such a superior lubricant how come nobody uses it exept on new chains? how come nobody recommends grease for a chain? use a little common sense
    Think about the this for a moment. Shimano ships out new chains. What % of mechanics and personal buyers does Shimano seriously expect to spend 15 minutes using degreaser then a night drying a chain, simply so they can apply a new lubricant? 10%? 2%? So the other 90-98% of new chains will be ridden with this hypothetical 'preservative'. And fail prematurely. And cause people to think that Shimano is junk. This simply doesn't make sense. Shimano instructions say nothing about degreasing a chain before use... if it was an important part of installation, don't you think their lawyers would have made sure it was included?

    The reason this lubricant isn't applied aftermarket is because it is highly viscous and needs to be applied under pressure to get inside the chain. It's not possible, or at least highly impractical to do this outside the factory. So we make do with aftermarket lubes that don't last as long.

    I'm only going to talk about the obvious fallacy of the 'preservative' theory. I won't get involved in an argument about how to clean or lube a chain- there are enough threads covering that already. Do a search on them to find out what causes chain elongation and drivechain wear. Hint: it's not dirt on the outside of the chain.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by danoalb
    Sram chains come with a killer lube new, just install it and ride it for a month and it will rock. On the other hand Shimano chains use a cosmolene protector that you must remove before using or you will have a nice grinding paste on your chain to really mess it up.
    This is simply not true. Please check your facts instead of propagating urban myths.

  22. #22
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    To put this idiocy to rest, I just called Shimano Australia (I'm in their timezone). The tech guy's comments on the idea that the lube needs to be removed (imagine a strong Aussie drawl here):

    "I think he's trippin' out" and

    "I don't think Shimano would put something on the chain that wasn't supposed to be used."

  23. #23
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    So basically what I read is there really is no right way or wrong way just a bunch of opinions!!!! So the moral of the story--figure it out for yourself--experiment a little try many types of lubes--change your chain often and ride like H-E-double hockey sticks.

    My opinion---I hate wax lubes--I call them the half ride lubes. I like wet "dry" lubes like Pedro's Dry and Motorex Dry. I wipe off the chain really good--then lube it really well--let is sit and rotate the cranks every-once-in-a-while--then wipe all the excess off I can.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 23mjm
    So basically what I read is there really is no right way or wrong way just a bunch of opinions!!!! So the moral of the story--figure it out for yourself--experiment a little try many types of lubes--change your chain often and ride like H-E-double hockey sticks.
    That's it exactly. This is the only way that you'll find the best solution for YOU given the way you ride in YOUR area.

    My opinion---I hate wax lubes--I call them the half ride lubes. I like wet "dry" lubes like Pedro's Dry and Motorex Dry. I wipe off the chain really good--then lube it really well--let is sit and rotate the cranks every-once-in-a-while--then wipe all the excess off I can.
    Based on your comments, I'd recommend giving Boeshield a try. Even though technically it's a wax based lube, it feels and behaves distinctly different from other wax based lubes. If you like the idea of a "wet, dry lube," I would think you'd like Boeshield since that's how I'd describe it. The only thing I'd suggest is that if you can, let it sit for a couple hours after applying it before wiping it down (I prefer to lube it the night before, then wipe it before riding the next day.) This isn't absolutely necessary, but it will greatly reduce the amount of dirt that it picks up.

    Larry

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by womble
    Yeah, and that "personal and personal experience" happens to be that of Sheldon Brown. Backed up by Jobst Brandt. Who in combination have more professionally practical and engineering-based experience than these forums combined



    Think about the this for a moment. Shimano ships out new chains. What % of mechanics and personal buyers does Shimano seriously expect to spend 15 minutes using degreaser then a night drying a chain, simply so they can apply a new lubricant? 10%? 2%? So the other 90-98% of new chains will be ridden with this hypothetical 'preservative'. And fail prematurely. And cause people to think that Shimano is junk. This simply doesn't make sense. Shimano instructions say nothing about degreasing a chain before use... if it was an important part of installation, don't you think their lawyers would have made sure it was included?

    The reason this lubricant isn't applied aftermarket is because it is highly viscous and needs to be applied under pressure to get inside the chain. It's not possible, or at least highly impractical to do this outside the factory. So we make do with aftermarket lubes that don't last as long.

    I'm only going to talk about the obvious fallacy of the 'preservative' theory. I won't get involved in an argument about how to clean or lube a chain- there are enough threads covering that already. Do a search on them to find out what causes chain elongation and drivechain wear. Hint: it's not dirt on the outside of the chain.
    so how excatly is the high pressure lube applied? no way
    the lube is applied in 1 of 2 ways , a hot bath dip or hot spray otherwise its too thick to go anywhere.
    I suggest you do a little research and see who if anyone recommends leaving chain lube on the exterior of a chain. Why not? because it collects dirt and grit which becomes a nice abrasive paste.
    you do what you want but I like a clean chain.
    As far as Sheldon Brown, read the article, he says, no lube, maybe. some lube occasioally, etc.. still his opinion. not fact
    chains elongate by wearing of the pins and rollers, making all the connections looser, once they get looser mmore grit can get inside, what , you think a grit coated chain isnt going to have some on the inside too?

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