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  1. #1
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    Loose chain after 1x10 conversion

    Just converted to 1x10. Using an N Gear Jump Stop and Raceface bashguard. My chain, SRAM PC 1031, feels looser since I did the work. I probably stretched it when removing the power lock.

    I reinstalled the chain using a KMC 10S missing link chain connector. There are a variety of opinions if its the right size to use on a SRAM 10 speed chain.

    The chain has some bounce to it and is hitting the chainstays more often.

    Is it safe to remove a link or two to tighten up the slack?
    Last edited by jclyle; 12-08-2012 at 10:37 AM.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclyle View Post
    Just converted to 1x10. Using an N Gear Jump Stop and Raceface bashguard. My chain, SRAM PC 1031, feels looser since I did the work. I probably stretched it when removing the power lock.

    I reinstalled the chain using a KMC 10S missing link chain connector. There are a variety of opinions if its the right size to use on a SRAM 10 speed chain.

    The chain has some bounce to it and is hitting the chainstays more often.

    Is it safe to remove a link or two to tighten up the slack?


    Remove a link or two and you're golden.

  3. #3
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    What eurospeak said, with an addition:

    Since you lost a chainring, your chain (likely) does not have to be as big. You can easily size it by releasing the missing link (this can be done with needle-nose pliers, in a pinch, but be careful...check KMC's site) and running the chain around the largest rear cog and the front chainring. Do this while bypassing the rear derailleur (pretend you are running it without the derailleur, in other words). Meet the chain up at the chainring, then add 2 full links (outer plates) at the crossing. Remember that your master link will make up one of those links.

    Sounds like an awesome conversion, post some pics!

  4. #4
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    Unless the 1x ring is the same size as the biggest chainring that you took off, you would have to shorten the chain. Use the method above and you'll be good to go.

  5. #5
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    You need to run the chain as normal through the RD and have it on the Big/Big combo, with it there your RD cage should be running at about the 4-5 O'clock position, more towards the 5 O'clock if you have an FS, as chain growth may occur. In my experience this is in actuality about 3-4 links you would need to add to the method the poster described + the power/master link.

    FYI - if the poster was indeed referring to chain links correctly, then yes, his method would be accurate as a "chain link" actually refers to a set of outer and inner links combined, totalling one inch in length. However, most people refer to a "link" think of either a set of outer or inner plates by themselves and as such how I normally reference them to people when describing anything. If you want to learn then go do some reading on this page and site - loads of great info from a Legend. Chain Maintenance

    Quote Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
    Since you lost a chainring, your chain (likely) does not have to be as big. You can easily size it by releasing the missing link (this can be done with needle-nose pliers, in a pinch, but be careful...check KMC's site) and running the chain around the largest rear cog and the front chainring. Do this while bypassing the rear derailleur (pretend you are running it without the derailleur, in other words). Meet the chain up at the chainring, then add 2 full links (outer plates) at the crossing. Remember that your master link will make up one of those links.

    Sounds like an awesome conversion, post some pics!
    Last edited by LyNx; 12-09-2012 at 04:10 AM.
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  6. #6
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    Lynx-

    Yep, meant to say two full links (outer plates) [subtext: with their accompanying inner plates]


  7. #7
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    Don't run anything through the RD when cutting a chain length, it'll just piss you off. Wrap the chain around Big/Big ONLY and add a full link= 1 inner, 1 outer, 1 inch.

    The RD has nothing to do with minimum chain length, it's job is dealing with MAXimum chain.

    Unless you're running a long cage RD and a 1x road cassette you won't have an issue.

  8. #8
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    OP, try this suggestion at your own risk and know the danger. Personally I wouldn't and would stick to the tried and trusted method of sizing the chain.

    Quote Originally Posted by plstrns View Post
    Don't run anything through the RD when cutting a chain length, it'll just piss you off. Wrap the chain around Big/Big ONLY and add a full link= 1 inner, 1 outer, 1 inch.

    The RD has nothing to do with minimum chain length, it's job is dealing with MAXimum chain.

    Unless you're running a long cage RD and a 1x road cassette you won't have an issue.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    OP, try this suggestion at your own risk and know the danger. Personally I wouldn't and would stick to the tried and trusted method of sizing the chain.
    I'll post that link for you . I underlined the important info...

    The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that one complete link (one inch, -- one inner and one outer half-link) overlaps. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length.

  10. #10
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    Sorry, the OP IS on a FS bike I assume, and I don't speak that language Regardless, clocking the RD isn't ever a reliable method. Finding the rear most travel with the chain on the big/big + a link is where to start there. You can go as short as you'll ever shift since a big big chainline is rarely ok anyway. Shift accidents do happen thou.

  11. #11
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    Since that's what the OPs signature say "GIant AnthemX" I'd say that's a pretty safe assumption. I find running the chain through the RD un-compressed and at full compression is a very good method to make sure you size the chain properly since there are so many variables like deraileur cage length cassette cog size, FS etc, etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by plstrns View Post
    Sorry, the OP IS on a FS bike I assume, and I don't speak that language Regardless, clocking the RD isn't ever a reliable method. Finding the rear most travel with the chain on the big/big + a link is where to start there. You can go as short as you'll ever shift since a big big chainline is rarely ok anyway. Shift accidents do happen thou.
    OP, I won't say anymore, I'll just post 2 photos of my bike under no load/compression and under full load/compression and let you make your own conclusions. FYI I do it like I explained and have 2 FULL links longer than if I ran the chain just around the biggest cog and ring. Setup is Shimano XT770 Short Cage RD, 24/38 rings and 32-16 cassette, bike is built off a Banshee Prime pre-production frameset (mini link like your AnthemX).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Loose chain after 1x10 conversion-lfp_4107.jpg  

    Loose chain after 1x10 conversion-lfp_4106.jpg  

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  12. #12
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    Now, I don't usually put chains on FS bikes, but when I size a chain I run it through the deraillerus in small-small and tension it so the chain doesn't rub on the folded up RD cage.

    Not sure how this would piss anyone off...

    If the RD cage is the right length for the gears on the bike, then it works no problem. And then I can just shorten the chain, and press the pin or install the link and it's done. Faster than that other method I reckon. If it's in small small already, you just drop the chain on the BB shell and it's easy to join the chain.

  13. #13
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    Remember that those 10s kmc chain connectors are suggested for 1 time use only so you will need to get a new one after th work. And I feel that the proper way to determine the chain length on a full suspension bike is to let all the air out of the shock. let it compress fully then do big to big + 1 link. This will eliminate guessing how much growth will occur and will give you proper chain length everytime. I have expierienced on sram products that sometimes small to small has an excessive amount of slack. SRAM says that this is "normal" And that gear combo should not be used. So in that case if you did the small to small and made sure tat there was tension on your derailer, I would have ripped the derailer off and had a major failure. which is no fun. Just my 2 cents on the topic.

  14. #14
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    If you did this on a modern FS with a 36-11 cassette and 2X setup, I'm guessing you'd spending some $$ buying RDs often, so take heed before it costs you. I have personal experience with these new setups and 36-11 10spd cassettes and if you size the chain right for Big/Big you cannot use small/small, not even 2 up from smallest nearly and well you shouldn't since most 2X systems run in the normal granny and middle ring positions, hence you wouldn't run that combo with a tripple in granny, so you shouldn't with the 2X setup either.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kanik View Post
    Now, I don't usually put chains on FS bikes, but when I size a chain I run it through the deraillerus in small-small and tension it so the chain doesn't rub on the folded up RD cage. .
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  15. #15
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    Remember that those 10s kmc chain connectors are suggested for 1 time use only so you will need to get a new one after th work
    Are you thinking of the SRAM 10sp Powerlock? They are once only use (although some manage to re-use), but the KMC ones are definitely multi-use.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    If you did this on a modern FS with a 36-11 cassette and 2X setup, I'm guessing you'd spending some $$ buying RDs often, so take heed before it costs you. I have personal experience with these new setups and 36-11 10spd cassettes and if you size the chain right for Big/Big you cannot use small/small, not even 2 up from smallest nearly and well you shouldn't since most 2X systems run in the normal granny and middle ring positions, hence you wouldn't run that combo with a tripple in granny, so you shouldn't with the 2X setup either.
    You're right, and you've got some good info. I'll be checking any mid cage FS bikes that I put chains on now for that. Still, it's a valid method for most of the bikes I do that don't have rear suspension. Those don't leave the stand without being in big-big to check, anyway.

  17. #17
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    Oops! Yeah I was mistaken that the kmc links are not re usable. sorry!

  18. #18
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    Kanik's method is known as the longest chain possible. It works safely AS LONG AS YOU ARE SURE that your rear derailleur has enough capacity for your chainring & cassette combination and that you actually do it right-- make sure the chain is overly long to where the RD is folding on itself, then remove 1 link at a time until it *just* works.

    This method lets you use various cassettes as long as your small-small combination doesn't decrease. (Fewer teeth on small ring, or going from 12T to 11T cassette.)

    After you do this, of course you would test your bike through all the gears and you definitely want to deflate the shock and bottom out a FS bike when testing big-big. If it works, you're golden.

    The other way is to size it in big-big as described in 2 ways above.. but this also needs to be done fully bottomed on a FS bike to account for chainstay growth. Nearly all FS bikes have chainstay growth so that they have chain tension for pedalling platform. And if you have multiple cassettes, you must do this with the one that has the biggest cog.

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