I have a 2010 virtue 3 and want to upgrade the crankset I have a deore lx and I HATE it it's noisey and crappy. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to get?????
Okay I originally had a 2007 virtue 3 with 300 mile on it and it had a frame defect so my local LBS sent it in to Felt and they replaced it with a 2010. Now the crank was starting to make this noise on the other bike so I know it's something to do with it.
It may not have to be the crank at all if it worked fine on the old frame but not the new one. It could be installation/adjustment problem, or it could be wear.
Face the bottom bracket shell. Chase the threads. Grease the frame threads. Wrap the BB threads in teflon tape. Torque it up. Grease and torque your chainring bolts. Check chainring and chain for wear. Make sure the pinch bolts are torqued properly. Grease the pedal threads and service the bushings/bearings.
It may not have to be the crank at all if it worked fine on the old frame but not the new one. It could be installation/adjustment problem, or it could be wear.
Face the bottom bracket shell. Chase the threads. Grease the frame threads. Wrap the BB threads in teflon tape. Torque it up. Grease and torque your chainring bolts. Check chainring and chain for wear. Make sure the pinch bolts are torqued properly. Grease the pedal threads and service the bushings/bearings.
Yeah but with just a little over 400 miles should this really have to be done??? Oh and it was giving me trouble on my other bike before the frame went bad.
Yeah but with just a little over 400 miles should this really have to be done??? Oh and it was giving me trouble on my other bike before the frame went bad.
Many people run the LX with no problem.Find out what the current issue is and then upgrade.Otherwise you run a real risk of wasting your money and having problems with whatever new crankset you buy.
Remove and inspect your crankset. Take off you're outboard bearings or remove the bottom bracket and have your shell faced. Do not have it done at the place you are currently using. Many "bike mechanics" do not like to face the shell, which can be very important if you have a crankset that uses outboard bearings. Clean, inspect and lube appropriately. Finally reinstall. Use the link below from Park Tool for help.
I'm assuming you can handle this, if you are in doubt take it to a bike shop. The reason I'm telling you to try a different place is because your crank should be fine unless it was installed carelessly or incorrectly. 400 miles is not very many, either you have an extremely rare LX crankset that was manufactured out of spec (not likely) or the person who is putting the cranks on your bike doesn't know what they are doing (very likely).
Facing is probably not something that he can do on his own unless he buys that fairly expensive tool.
Has the LBS tried to diagnose the issue? Or just you?
I know everybody likes to think that they're the best mechanic ever... truth is, often times they are not. I do not mean to insult you or your wrenching ability. But it may be time to take it to somebody that knows better.
In my opinion, facing, chasing, and reaming should be standard on a build. Whenever I get a bare frame or build one up for somebody, I face the headtube, BB, and disc mounts. Headtube and seattube are reamed. BB threads are chased.
You could have to grease BB, pedals, threads, etc 0 miles after you install them if it wasn't done or wasn't done properly to start.
If you build a engine and don't put oil in it (or put too little or the wrong type), do you expect it to work well?
To Be honest with you I would take it back to my LBS but it took them about three months to get my frame and they played stupid the hole time, so I am not ready to take it back there yet I have only has it for a few weeks.
To Be honest with you I would take it back to my LBS but it took them about three months to get my frame and they played stupid the hole time, so I am not ready to take it back there yet I have only has it for a few weeks.
This may not be their fault at all. Unless they were hiding the frame under the workbench, it probably got held up on Felt's end. Warranties take time. And Felt's CS is not exactly the best in the industry.
Seeing as your old frame had noise issues, I wouldn't surprised if the new one still has issues. Have you pulled out the bolts and greased up the bearings? Have you replaced the plated bolts in the pivot? The plating is cheap and flakes off. Have you torqued all the pivots to spec?
Many things can cause creaking... seat post, seat rails, freehub, hubs, pivots, headset, bars, stem, forks, shocks, even quick releases. Sometimes the noise can be very hard to pinpoint. I had a customer once who swore he had a ticking noise in his bottom bracket. So we focused on the BB area for hours. Until finally I decided to just check everything... turns out the front QR bushing was dry and a bit loose.
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