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  1. #1
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    I think I'm F'd...

    So I'm trying to change my drivetrain from 1x9 to 1x10 - everything was set, I purchased an X0 cassette, rear derailleur, and shifter. I successfully removed my beast of a casette (12-36 shimano), and I noticed that it had imprinted several dents onto the casette splines of my Hope Pro II rear hub.

    Moving on, I started putting my X0 casette on to the rear hub, but encountered a lot of resistance (I think secondary to the dents in the splines). I then attempted to remove my X0 casette - it didn't move. I then pulled a little harder and the whole casette and free hub body came off my hub revealing the axle (pics 1 & 2).

    Now the casette is stuck to my free hub body, and I can't reattach the free hub body to the rest of the hub. (pics 3, 4 &5).

    This is RIDICULOUS. Am I totally screwed? Can I at least salvage my new casette?

    Please help me.

    -Greg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails I think I'm F'd...-img_1022.jpg  

    I think I'm F'd...-img_1023.jpg  

    I think I'm F'd...-img_1024.jpg  

    I think I'm F'd...-img_1028.jpg  

    I think I'm F'd...-img_1030.jpg  


  2. #2
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
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    You're going to laugh.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdgUv...eature=related

    50 seconds into the video.

    Try some penetrating oil or something on the outside of the freehub body. I bet with proper application of lubricant, twisting, pulling and swear words, you can get it off. (Is that what she said?)

    I have steel freehub bodies on my bikes, and haven't had this issue. But you might be able to dress the splines on the freehub body with a file - just take the burrs off. I bet your new cassette will go right on. It has a carrier for all the cogs, right? So it shouldn't cause the problem again.

    FWIW, a few sources recommend steel freehub bodies for use with a 36t granny. I don't know what's so different from a 34t granny, but there you go.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  3. #3
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    Hahaha, my removal of the free hub was a lot more violent - I now have a nice gash on my right thumb.

  4. #4
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    Reputation: Glynis27's Avatar
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    No big deal. Reattach the freehub to the hub, put the little endcap on and put a QR skewer back on to keep it all from coming apart again. May need to add some washers or something to get it to clamp. To remove a cassette that is stuck on, I usually use 2 chainwhips and turn them in different directions, but I'm not sure if that will work for an X0 cassette. Once you get it off though, be sure to file down the burrs on the freehub body.
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  5. #5
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    Reputation: RustyIron's Avatar
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    Tap, tap, tap with a wooden dowel. It will come apart, no big deal.

    Actually, it's a good thing, because you needed to disassemble, clean and lubricate your freehub anyway.

    Next time, and every time you remove a cassette, take a file and judiciously knock down the burrs on the splines.

  6. #6
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    This makes tons of sense to me

    Wouldn't have this problem if ^^^^^^^^^^^^

  7. #7
    Hmmmmm
    Reputation: Ericmopar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RustyIron View Post
    Tap, tap, tap with a wooden dowel. It will come apart, no big deal.

    Actually, it's a good thing, because you needed to disassemble, clean and lubricate your freehub anyway.

    Next time, and every time you remove a cassette, take a file and judiciously knock down the burrs on the splines.
    X2 on the wooden dowel trick. Use a hardwood dowel from a hardware store.
    As a note; This is why I don't care for aluminum freehub bodies.
    "I thought of that while riding my bike."
    Albert Einstein, on the theory of relativity.

    Peace and Long Rides...

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