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  1. #1
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    I need a sealed rear hub

    Hey guys i'm in need of a sealed rear hub for my Specialized P1. I'd really like to get a Hadley, Industry Nine, Chris King or DT Swiss but i just don't have the dough for it. I would like one with a 10x135 thru axle. No QR! I was looking at Transition Bikes Revolution Hub since it is a decent price, its sealed, and its a thru-axle. I was also looking at Atomlab and DMR but the they have bolt on axles with the Allen key bolts which i don't want. I'd like to run nutted axles. Can ya'll help me out? Much appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Reputation: Bikinfoolferlife's Avatar
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    More than likely your current hub also has seals, is it a cup and cone type? The first group of hubs you mention all use cartridge bearings rather than cup and cone type. Your bike has a dropout that accepts a through axle? Or is it a regular dropout and you need a nutted axle? Not the same thing. Not familiar with Atomlab DMR or Transition products in any case...

    ps You might just be able to put a nutted axle on your existing hub, which would most likely be the most cost effective solution...
    Last edited by Bikinfoolferlife; 03-29-2009 at 08:48 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Its unsealed but i think its cone type, its also a nutted axle which i love. I have horizontal dropouts so i could run bolt-on or thru axle i'd rather do thru axle even if it didn;t come with a nutted axle. I could just switch it out where as with the bolt on axle i have to run it how it is AND have to get chain tugs so i don't strip out the bolts trying to keep the thing from moving in the drop out.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianpdc22
    Its unsealed but i think its cone type, its also a nutted axle which i love. I have horizontal dropouts so i could run bolt-on or thru axle i'd rather do thru axle even if it didn;t come with a nutted axle. I could just switch it out where as with the bolt on axle i have to run it how it is AND have to get chain tugs so i don't strip out the bolts trying to keep the thing from moving in the drop out.
    You can not use a through axle. Through axles thread into or are clamped by the frame. A bolt on axle, like you have, and QR axles clamp the frame.
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  5. #5
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    My friend has the same bike and he has a Hadley with a thru axle and he took the axle from his old hub(same as my current hub) and used it and it works fine.

  6. #6
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    You can get the DMR Revolver with a 10mm bolt-on (solid axle). You may need to order it or buy the bolt-on axle and retrofit, but you'll end up with a very stiff hub/axle for not much cash. Engagement isn't particularly fast, though.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianpdc22
    My friend has the same bike and he has a Hadley with a thru axle and he took the axle from his old hub(same as my current hub) and used it and it works fine.
    You seem to misunderstand the terminology. You don't have a thru axle nor a frame that accepts one. Thru bolt and nutted solid axles are different from thru axles. Here's what Transition says about the options: Rear Hub Options: 135mm rear hub spacing, 10mm or 12mm interchangeable solid axle. Wheelsets come standard with QR axle but nutted axles are available.


    Somewhat the same for "sealed" in that you are talking about sealed cartridge bearings, which are better described as cartridge bearings as their seals aren't all that special.

    Just what hub do you have now and what bike is it?
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  8. #8
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianpdc22
    My friend has the same bike and he has a Hadley with a thru axle and he took the axle from his old hub(same as my current hub) and used it and it works fine.
    Hadley is mis-using the term. They offer bolt-on axles that are removable from the hub. This has come to be called a through-bolt axle. Such axles work in standard dropout frames but not in true through axle frames. The other tip off for a though axle hub/frame/fork is the axle comes with the frame/fork, not with the hub.
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