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  1. #1
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    How tight should the cassette lockring be?

    How tight should the cassette lockring be?

    1 - Road bike: I had a hard time removing it on my road bike. I eventually got it, but I wasn't sure how tight it should be when putting it back on.

    2 - CX Bike: This one is on really tight. I can't seem to get it off. I'm using the proper tools (chain whip, cassette lockring tool). Any tips/tricks to get it off?


    Note: I do not have a torque wrench. Answers can be in the form of: not that tight, tight, really tight, gorilla tight.

  2. #2
    Viva la Vida!
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    Those answers are so relative and depend on who is tightening it.
    Go buy a torque wrench and thigh it to 40Nm
    Last edited by Camaleon; 12-03-2012 at 06:48 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Mine is on gorilla tight. And always a ***** to take off when needed lol.

  4. #4
    dru
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    Man up, it will come off. Make sure you are running a skewer through the tool (if tool has hole in the middle) and cassette/hub and use a big wrench or socket for leverage. I run the whip on the bigger gears to give the chain more teeth to bite into.
    occasional cyclist

  5. #5
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    I'd say really tight- there's a reason they make chainwhips and lockring wrenches with long handles. I don't think this is an area where you really need a torque wrench because it would be near impossible to strip out a lockring.

    If you have the chainwhip and lockring wrench at 3 and 9 o'clock and stand above the wheel you'll have about 2 feet of leverage to work with and even the tightest one should be no problem to remove.

  6. #6
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    I'd say tight. There is little to no chance for the lockring to loosen up anyway, so don't ram on it and make it a PITA to remove after.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
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  7. #7
    the catalan connection
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    There is little to no chance for the lockring to loosen
    Really?
    "Blessed is the man who, having nothing to say, abstains from giving us wordly evidence of the fact." George Elliot

  8. #8
    Huckin' trails
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    Quote Originally Posted by What&son View Post
    Really?
    Really.

    Come on, not finger tight. but at least using a 1' long wrench and clicking in a few notches till it seems harder to click more than 2 a the time is often enough. trial and error will get you there on how tight you should make it so it's easy to take off and not loosening in the long run. Just tighten it to a good feel, then try to take it off. If you're reefing too much, it means you had it way too tight at first. Unless you use a torque wrench, use your brain and find the middleground. Or just don't even think about it, make it ass tight and just go ride your damn bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by What&son View Post
    Really?
    Yes, really. That's why the smallest cog on the cassette and the lockring have mating knurls on them. For SS applications, where you don't have knurled surfaces, make it a bit tighter.

    Tighten the lockring until the cassette doesn't move, then tighten it a little more. You'd be surprised that 40nm with a proper (mid-length, ie: large, for a bicycle) torque wrench really isn't that much. Sound effect wise, that's ziiiiiiiiiiiip, tick, tick..tick....tick. Don't over-think it too much.

    Anywho, when I tighten/remove lockrings, I use a 1" combo wrench (12" long) and the park tool whip/1" wrench combo tool. Never had an issue except with galled freewheels (obviously, you don't need the whip for a freewheel, just a good bench vise and some elbow grease). The tip to put the whip around the largest/one of the larger cogs is bang on, allows you to put more torque on the splined tool.

  10. #10
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    Idea!

    I heard people say tighten until you hear clicks. I don't hear clicks. I just feel it tightening through notches on the cassette. That's what it feels like. I used a Husky 10 inch crescent wrench on the Park Tool FR-5G AND i tightened with my left (weaker) hand to make sure i didn't over-tighten. First i tightened until tight, then tightened about 2 more notches. I've tightened lotsa times in my BMX days. Hopefully i don't wreck the cassette or freehub if it's not tight enough or too tight. Currently debating over buying a torque wrench

  11. #11
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    Shimano lockrings have a thin metal washer integrated to them. Muffles the ticking sound, but, as you noticed, it can be felt.

  12. #12
    usually cranky
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    im with david c. i get mine finger tight then give it a good crank with a wrench. that way i don't give myself a hernia trying to remove it, never had an issue with 9 or 10 speed.

  13. #13
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
    Shimano lockrings have a thin metal washer integrated to them. Muffles the ticking sound, but, as you noticed, it can be felt.
    Thanx wschruba. Thought maybe something wasn't right if i didn't hear clicks. Oh, i found my old torque wrench... never used it in my BMX days, but since mtb's are a lil more sophisticated, i'm gonna torque the cassette so i can sleep better at night ... gotta wait for the 1 inch socket i bought online for the Park Tool FR-5G

  14. #14
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    I would advise against strong man torque. Just be aware that XTR and Dura Ace use aluminum for their lock rings, and as I found out last week, a bit too much torque will crack it very easy. 40nm is recommended for a reason.

  15. #15
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    That is the most over designed part on a bicycle. I throw away 11 tooth cogs so most of the time I'm using a cog without the serrations. I tighten mine down with my hand and a glove. If it does come loose nothing happens If you are paying attention. On my wheels the high gear is close enough to the frame that the lock ring can't come all the way off. I have a park tool that a bicycle shop collapsed trying to remove a lock ring.
    "Dish is illogical." Spoke of Vulcan.

  16. #16
    The White Jeff W
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    Re: How tight should the cassette lockring be?

    I tighten mine until there's no slop in the cassette & stop there. Its usually around 6 clicks. Never had any problems getting them off
    No moss...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by eggdog View Post
    I would advise against strong man torque. Just be aware that XTR and Dura Ace use aluminum for their lock rings, and as I found out last week, a bit too much torque will crack it very easy. 40nm is recommended for a reason.
    I think you may have had some bad luck because this is just not true. Several decades working in shops and thousands of cassettes removed and to my reckoning I have never cracked a cassette lockring, and I'm an advocate of getting them tight. I can't for the life of me understand the hand tightening thing, you guys plan on changing a cassette on the trail?

    Never had an issue getting on off either, the crustiest of them all might require a QR skewer to hold the lockring tool from slipping but that is rare, and only takes an extra 20 seconds or so.

  18. #18
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    Ya, wouldnt just finger tighten it, but snug, then a bit (few clicks as some mentioned). not He-man strong though, that just makes a pain in the arse later.

  19. #19
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    feel much better now... torqued it to 40Nm. It's very possible when i originally hand tightened it without the torque wrench, it was less than 40Nm.

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