Results 1 to 17 of 17
  1. #1
    Murag Kanding!!!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    187

    Bonking ... not feelin' well How often do you change housing and cables?

    I have a Santa Cruz Blur 2005 that was purchased last Nov 05. It has been in and out of the bike shop for gear shifting adjustments. My LBS is great and they are very helpful. I came back to them again for the same problem, a different mechanic saw my bike and asked me if I had replaced my cable and housing? I wonder it has only been ridden for 5 times with a couple of muddy and watery sections...? Has anyone here have the same problems with their shifting in relation to cable and housing problems caused by mud and water infiltrating in it? From the moment I purchased my bike it had no perfect shifting... it comes and go. BTW I have a Shimano XT equipped bike... I have no problems with my other bikes though. One is a hardtail with XTR and another with XT drivetrain.
    Now, after all the confusion I let him change my front and rear cables and housing... indeed there are some mud inside but I am not impressed. This is the first time I heard of this, all my bikes never had this type of headache. It finally shifted perfectly at least for the time being. Does anyone of you guys have the same problem? If so, how often everybody is changing their cables and housing in a year? This guy told me 3-4 times a year it should be changed... I doubt it, man. The way I ride its only once a week... ave 10- 15 miles. Non-aggressive riding too...

    Thanks a lot
    Last edited by mjcort27; 02-18-2006 at 11:27 AM.

  2. #2
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    25,589
    He is a mechanic & he is giving sugestions to what he see's & hears from work & seminars. Good mechanic's pay attention. I dont change my cables & housings as much as i should, generally about once every 1-1 1/2 years. I also cheat & when i have shifting problems, cable related, i use my faithfull cable luber that you can get at your local moto shop. The fit is a bit funky because moto cables are larger but a rag around the luber works fine.

  3. #3
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    Quote Originally Posted by mjcort27
    I have a Santa Cruz Blur 2005 that was purchased last Nov 05. It has been in and out of the bike shop for gear shifting adjustments. My LBS is great and they are very helpful. I came back to them again for the same problem, a different mechanic saw my bike and asked me if I had replaced my cable and housing? I wonder it has only been ridden for 5 times with a couple of muddy and watery sections...? Has anyone here have the same problems with their shifting in relation to cable and housing problems caused by mud and water infiltrating in it? From the moment I purchased my bike it had no perfect shifting... it comes and go. BTW I have a Shimano XT equipped bike... I have no problems with my other bikes though. One is a hardtail with XTR and another with XT drivetrain.
    Now, after all the confusion I let him change my front and rear cables and housing... indeed there is are some mud inside but I am not impressed. This is the first time I heard of this, all my bikes newer had this type of headache. It finally shifted perfectly at least for the time being. Does anyone of you guys have the same problem? If so, how often everybody is changing their cables and housing in a year? This guy told me 3-4 times a year it should be changed... I doubt it, man. The way I ride its only once a week... ave 10- 15 miles. Non-aggressive riding too...

    Thanks a lot
    It could be poor cable runs, and the suspension movement would change the routing of the cables which would then interfere with shifting. It could be due to internal friction or the housing may have been cut too short or improperly routed to begin with. Try some high quality cables and housing. The Nokon stuff is good, but very pricey. My XTR housing works pretty well. Make sure the housing is long enough and that there are no sudden bends. Make sure all the runs are as smooth/as straight as possible.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GearHead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1,008
    Quote Originally Posted by mjcort27
    I have a Santa Cruz Blur 2005 that was purchased last Nov 05. It has been in and out of the bike shop for gear shifting adjustments. My LBS is great and they are very helpful. I came back to them again for the same problem, a different mechanic saw my bike and asked me if I had replaced my cable and housing? I wonder it has only been ridden for 5 times with a couple of muddy and watery sections...? Has anyone here have the same problems with their shifting in relation to cable and housing problems caused by mud and water infiltrating in it? From the moment I purchased my bike it had no perfect shifting... it comes and go. BTW I have a Shimano XT equipped bike... I have no problems with my other bikes though. One is a hardtail with XTR and another with XT drivetrain.
    Now, after all the confusion I let him change my front and rear cables and housing... indeed there is are some mud inside but I am not impressed. This is the first time I heard of this, all my bikes newer had this type of headache. It finally shifted perfectly at least for the time being. Does anyone of you guys have the same problem? If so, how often everybody is changing their cables and housing in a year? This guy told me 3-4 times a year it should be changed... I doubt it, man. The way I ride its only once a week... ave 10- 15 miles. Non-aggressive riding too...

    Thanks a lot
    I have had the same problem as well have others I know when using the newer 4 mm OD shifter housing and plastic ferrules. I believe between the housing having less longitudinal strands and the plastic ferrules extruding through the cable stops, they go out of adjustment easily. Once I switched all bike to 5 mm OD housing and metal ferrules, the drivetrains become a set and forgot thing after the first couple of break-in rides.

    If you only ride 10-15 miles once a week, you should be able to get 1-2 years out of a set of cables easily. This could be also dimished to one ride before the cables need cleaning if you are careless while washing off your bike and wash mud and water into the housings.
    There is no added value to my participation - in fact, just more confusion.

  5. #5
    Murag Kanding!!!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    187

    Mud and water going in during cleaning the bike...

    Yeah, maybe its the case of the dirt seeping in the housing and cables, how do you prevent this? The way I clean my bike is a very low hand pressurized water hose, when I spray. I am thinking of changing my shifter cables and housing to a more waterproof one if there is such? Not anytime soon though. Or just like you said I'll get the 5mm OD with metal housing ferrules. Thanks
    Last edited by mjcort27; 02-18-2006 at 11:29 AM. Reason: spelling

  6. #6
    Murag Kanding!!!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    187
    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    It could be poor cable runs, and the suspension movement would change the routing of the cables which would then interfere with shifting. It could be due to internal friction or the housing may have been cut too short or improperly routed to begin with. Try some high quality cables and housing. The Nokon stuff is good, but very pricey. My XTR housing works pretty well. Make sure the housing is long enough and that there are no sudden bends. Make sure all the runs are as smooth/as straight as possible.
    That was the first thing came into my mind that they run something not too good for the bike because it never shifted perfectly the moment I got off their rack! Its just frustrating that after all they did with the previous mechanics they never tried to change something right then. Now with this other mechanic he immediately diagnosed it with precision. Off course I have to pay for his services however its probably their fault too.
    Anyway I will upgrade to Nokon if this new stuff he placed will breakdown soon.
    Thanks a lot.

  7. #7
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    25,589
    If your lucky that tech will stick around. The metal ferrules ofer no more protection then odhers just they dont give as easily under load. Avid has a sealed system but it can still allow moisture in through the ferrules. XSL_WiLL's advise is good as is GearHead.
    http://www.sram.com/en/avid/cablesystems/index.php

  8. #8
    Carpe Noctem
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    311
    I can vouch for the avid sealed system; the FlackJacket. I was having to lube the shift cables weekly to keep it shifting perfectly untill I switched to the flackjackets and since it's more sealed than less I was also able to use Slick Honey inside the housing. It was amazing what a difference this made in shifting performance. I didn't need to lube the shift system for six months, when i did it was still clean inside the housing. The seals aren't perfect but in my expierence they're prety good.
    Off season? What off season?

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    48
    Cables tend to get dirty when riding in wet and muddy conditions. I'm cheap and don't replace my cables or housing, so after a wet and muddy race they are generally ready to be cleaned. I just take off the housing, clean the cable with WD40, and use the red straw attachment with WD40 to clean out the housing. Then I lube them up with white lighting or a teflon spray lube (or something like finish line cross country lube for wet conditions) and put it all back together. It usually fixes any kind of friction induced shifting problem.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    345
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuluota54
    Fighting same issue, and about to ask LBS for best available replacement cable. Running full XTR on an 06' BLT. Typically, middle chainring & middle range cassette - ghost shifting continues, as it has since day one in November. Barrel tension adjustments last about 10-15 miles, then falls out of adjust again. Zero bad weather exposure, washed only once, with care. Rides buds suggest rear cable loop to deraileur may be too short. Shifting so bad, can't imagine it is faulty XTR - my old XTR and other bike XT's shift 20 times better than this new setup. Frustrating. After 15 miles - usally shift up 2 then back down 1 to get gear to sync properly. Trying to shift one at a time usually results in grinding / mis-allignment.
    Check the cable/housing routing. Are they too long/too short? Ghost shifting can occur when the housings are not the right length and when the suspension moves it stretches the housing and causes a shift. If you mechanics are saying everything is all right i would find a new shop.

  11. #11
    Carpe Noctem
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    311
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuluota54
    Fighting same issue, and about to ask LBS for best available replacement cable. Running full XTR on an 06' BLT. Typically, middle chainring & middle range cassette - ghost shifting continues, as it has since day one in November. Barrel tension adjustments last about 10-15 miles, then falls out of adjust again. Zero bad weather exposure, washed only once, with care. Rides buds suggest rear cable loop to deraileur may be too short. Shifting so bad, can't imagine it is faulty XTR - my old XTR and other bike XT's shift 20 times better than this new setup. Frustrating. After 15 miles - usally shift up 2 then back down 1 to get gear to sync properly. Trying to shift one at a time usually results in grinding / mis-allignment.

    I had something like that happening on my Id, It required loop of housing so long it made me nervous. I tried several different lengths but invariably the performance would deteriorate quickly and severely. The thing that fixed it was an avid rollamajig. I hate those little dirt injectors but once in a while it's the best option. What have you got to lose? give it a try.

    Chuluota doesn't say anything about a shop in his post, why was it the final and most negative thing noted?
    Off season? What off season?

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GearHead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1,008
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuluota54
    We pulled the cable (stock XTR black teflon type coating) found two sections of cable where the black coating had "peeled" off (after only 120 miles on bike). Found flakes inside the housing near the back loop to the deraileur. Plus - cable was actually gouged (rough enough to feel indent with fingernail) about 2" inside rear housing - so we're guessing somewhere in bike set-up process, a goof....... (not same shop as my Tech)

    The XTR cable rubbing off teflon in two gentle curve areas of the housing - is suprising - shouldn't happen. If your are having my type of XTR shift problems - easy to pull rear housing and check !
    No big surprise here, you can see the teflon coating on most brands of cables already coming off when they are new in the package. To make teflon stick to something, you need to apply it in a vacuum chamber and/or at a really high velocity. I doubt they do this for cables.

    The original Avid Flack Jacket cable sets used to come with teflon coated cables. Avid switched to plain old SS cables because all of the coating would come off inside the sealed system and there is no way to clean it but to take it all apart.

    The best quality cables I have found are Dura Ace shifter cables (of course you can't use their brake cables though on a MTB), highest quality of SS used and super smooth.
    There is no added value to my participation - in fact, just more confusion.

  13. #13
    Carpe Noctem
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    311
    Quote Originally Posted by GearHead
    No big surprise here, you can see the teflon coating on most brands of cables already coming off when they are new in the package. To make teflon stick to something, you need to apply it in a vacuum chamber and/or at a really high velocity. I doubt they do this for cables.

    The original Avid Flack Jacket cable sets used to come with teflon coated cables. Avid switched to plain old SS cables because all of the coating would come off inside the sealed system and there is no way to clean it but to take it all apart.

    The best quality cables I have found are Dura Ace shifter cables (of course you can't use their brake cables though on a MTB), highest quality of SS used and super smooth.

    Hmm, haven't tried the Dura Ace cables. Sounds good, I'll look into it.
    Off season? What off season?

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    23

    Good job! Dry Cables Sealed Cable System

    I installed a sealed cable system from Dry Cables www.drycables.com over a year ago. Still have buttery smooth shifting. You might want to give them a try

  15. #15
    Murag Kanding!!!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    187
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuluota54
    Fighting same issue, and about to ask LBS for best available replacement cable. Running full XTR on an 06' BLT. Typically, middle chainring & middle range cassette - ghost shifting continues, as it has since day one in November. Barrel tension adjustments last about 10-15 miles, then falls out of adjust again. Zero bad weather exposure, washed only once, with care. Rides buds suggest rear cable loop to deraileur may be too short. Shifting so bad, can't imagine it is faulty XTR - my old XTR and other bike XT's shift 20 times better than this new setup. Frustrating. After 15 miles - usally shift up 2 then back down 1 to get gear to sync properly. Trying to shift one at a time usually results in grinding / mis-allignment.
    I hear yah man!!! I complained about chain rubbing the front derailleur too and one mechanic told me its normal for $2700+ bike to do this, common BS! I have two other bikes with XTR and XTs and none of them rubs or shifts badly! Anyway another mechanic fixed it though now it shifts like a charm. Hope this holds up. Thanks a lot.

  16. #16
    it's....
    Reputation: Strafer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    1,918
    Drill out the cable stops and run full housing.
    Maintenance free, lasts longer and stays smoooooooth.

  17. #17
    locked - time out
    Reputation: Pay Here's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,411

    ... and if we just ... So far so good.

    NOKON: the housing and liner are tops. But ditch the cables they Suck!
    Iam running Quality SS in mine and its made a world of difference. [going on 8 mos]

    Jake Pay, nokon Here.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •