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  1. #1
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    Hope Pro II rebuild pics

    I had a bit of side play, about a mm or so I just recently noticed, so it looked like a good time to finally take some pics to remove the mystery in rebuilding these things. It's always a pleasure to take these things apart. Aside from the cassette lockring tool, this is truly a no special tools needed operation.

    The only part I didn't illustrate here was the removal of the bearings in the freehub body, which will be self-explanatory at that step.

    1. Hub before disassembly. You simply pull on the freehub firmly. You can do one of several things. You can pull the endcap off with a pair of pliers, as they essentially hold the hub together with a tight seal. The body to hub seal also snaps into place. You can also simply pull the freehub and endcap off together, but it's tougher. I use the latter method.

    2. The engagement side of the freehub. Note the pawls, springs, two bearings on the inner side, and the large main seal.

    3&4 The axle shaft, the engagement ring inside the hubshell, and note the groove where the oring inside the endcap resides. Also note there is a thick washer here that separates the hub support bearing from the freehub support bearing.

    5. Endcap and the lockring side of the freehub.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jerk_Chicken; 04-02-2007 at 04:05 PM.

  2. #2
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    Some more pics:

    1. Rotor side and the seal after the black endcap is removed with a pair of pliers.

    2&3 The axle removed. It is removed by tapping from the rotor side. The bearing comes out with it. Note the thick washer.

    4&5. More shots of the engagement ring. The axle is reinstalled by tapping from the drive side. Make sure to seat the bearing until it's flush with the hub.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
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    More pics

    1. The freehub with the springs and pawls removed

    2. The lockring side. Note the sleeve between the bearings is dislodged. It is at this point you can remove the bearings by putting a deep socket in this gap and tapping against the sleeve or against the bearing directly.

    3. Spring installed.

    4&5. The pawls and springs installed. Note the locations for the grease application. These locations will continue to feed the pawl tips with lubrication, but not too much. When I removed the assembly, a good amount I left under the pawls was still there. Get some grease on the tips, as well as an amount on the engagement ring. Not much needed, but if you use too much, you can affect the engagement or disengagement. I used a lighter grease that won't prevent the pawls from being pushed out of the way during freewheeling and won't reduce the amount the pawls go into the engagement ring. Too much and too thick grease will prevent proper engagement and disengagement, so be cautious. Note in the last pic the ridge where the main seal resides. Lubricate this to prevent dirt and water intrusion.
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    Last edited by Jerk_Chicken; 03-30-2007 at 08:34 PM.

  4. #4
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    Last pic

    The assembly is put back together by installing the black cap on the disc side. Make sure the seal is cleaned and lubed lightly, including the oring on the inside of the cap.

    The freehub is simply pushed onto the hub, over the axle shaft. The main seal snaps into place on the hub. Place silver endcap on the end of the shaft, then use a quick release to clamp it all together tightly. Remove and the hub is ready for the cassette. Make sure nothing is binding and you'll be all set.

    For the seals, I use prep-m. I also checked the outer bearings for lube and found one had little in it. Used prep-m, and also made sure all seal faces had a thin film or residue of grease for water repellancy.

    This whole job can be done in under 30 minutes.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    Awesome, JC!

    Now I have a reference when I take mine apart. Thanks!

  6. #6
    cgd
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    very helpfull, hopefully itll be some time yet before i have to service mine.

    how many miles did you get out of them? or were you just itching to take them apart? :0)


    them metal strips look a lot less trouble than the springs of old too...

  7. #7
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    I've been using them since the fall. Sealing is excellent, but as I said, there was a bit of play and I decided to do the whole thing while I was in there in case some grit fell inside. Grease was still very clean and no free water to be found.

  8. #8
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    JC - just a note - I had trouble re-seating the main seal between the freehub body and the hub shell. I couldn't just push the two together and get a good seal. The solution was to seat one half of this seal, and then use the blunt end of teaspoon to pop the remaining edges of the seal into place, while ensuring that a little bit of pressure was being applied to the freehub at the same time.

    It's easy to tell if the seal hasn't seated properly as you will get crazy amounts of drag from the freehub.

    Hope this helps someone - it took me about 2 hours and several hub re-assemblies to figure it out. My main seal was a very hard plastic and seemed a little on the large side. Took about 5 minutes once I worked out how to do it.

  9. #9
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    Nice write-up.
    Is the hub any quieter now?

  10. #10
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    I didn't go to make it quieter. In fact, I made it louder. I like the sound.

    After my first servicing, I inadvertantly added too much lube to the ratchet ring, using Prep M. It made it about as quiet as a DT 240. I use a different lube now that is slipperier and a smaller amount of it. The oem lube is some sort of blue grease, more viscous than PrepM, but they use a small amount because not all that much is needed anyhow.

  11. #11
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    Duuuude... Two words...."Nail cut!!!"
    Just kidding of course... Awesome pictorial...

  12. #12
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    Thanks

    ...for taking the time to put this together.
    I've had mine about 14 months and just got round to servicing the rear one after some creaking developed; the hub is still running smooth.

    I suspect all the grease is washed out from the drive side cap and this moving against the hollow axle.

    Unfortunately I found it is stuck on!

    Now thanks to your thread I know where to apply effort without breaking anything!

    Cheers,

    Simon.

  13. #13
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    Hope & White Industries Hubs

    The internals to the Hope Pro 2 look almost exactly like the White Industries hubs. Does one company share the patent from the other?

  14. #14
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    Hope vs. WTB rear hubs

    J C I just finished to read the both threads about services of the Hopes and WTB rear hubs.
    1. Wich one of them are better value
    2. Are the parts of the Hopes like hub body available in the states and from whom
    3. Have the Hopes bearings a special desing or you can buy the replacements in a baering wharehouse or retail shop.
    This info will help me chosing the hubs for my new built.

    Thanks

  15. #15
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midle Age Warrior
    J C I just finished to read the both threads about services of the Hopes and WTB rear hubs.
    1. Wich one of them are better value
    2. Are the parts of the Hopes like hub body available in the states and from whom
    3. Have the Hopes bearings a special desing or you can buy the replacements in a baering wharehouse or retail shop.
    This info will help me chosing the hubs for my new built.

    Thanks
    1) That is up to JC
    2) http://www.hopetechusa.com/ has all the parts
    3) The bearing are standard, so no worries.. check the diagram below

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmadrigal/524784481/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1001/524784481_a1b63d882f_o.jpg" width="1459" height="2048" alt="hope Pro 2 diagram" /></a>

  16. #16
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    converting from qr to 10 mm bolt-on?

    Thanks for the great instructions!
    To me, it seems like its possible to exchange the axle and rebuild the rear hub from qr to 10 mm bolt on. (or 12 mm of course)
    Anyone tried this, and if - any advice?
    -e

  17. #17
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    Bookmarked!

    Nice write up JC. Bookmarked! I found that the QR spacers come off by hand pretty easy.

    Quote Originally Posted by daktari
    Thanks for the great instructions!
    To me, it seems like its possible to exchange the axle and rebuild the rear hub from qr to 10 mm bolt on. (or 12 mm of course)
    Anyone tried this, and if - any advice?
    -e
    Yes it is possible, someone did it a while back and posted teh results on the Turner forum, using one of the new DT Swiss ratcheting TA's. You could also do it with the Hope TA.

  18. #18
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    Thanks JC! I recently pulled my hub apart out of interest and just for the sake of it more then anything.

    It had really only seen a twelve hour endurance event and a few rides from time to time over the last six months in great conditions. Just broken in!

    As expected it was clean and like new inside, so I just pulled apart and cleaned up the engagement side of things and replaced the grease and did the seals. I used tentative amounts of Prep M to keep things loud and free, but as soon as I find something a little less viscous I’ll probably pull it apart again just for piece of mind.

    Thanks again!

    Cheers, Dave.

  19. #19
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    I contacted Hope about the lubricant and they recommended a Mobil grease, but I asked them where to get it, and the tech mentioned in reality, any lube is fine, like Prep M. Just make sure it's water resistant.

    It's very touch to get the very slick automotive cv joint grease, as most are the more sticky ones.

  20. #20
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    Thanx

    Thanks alot for the info. I was having issues, but you showed me the light.
    Zero charisma

  21. #21
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    No problem. I'm hoping to get enough support for a DIY section, as I've been throwing the idea around to Gregg for a while.

  22. #22
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    Good idea

    Im sure someone out there will have a solution to somebody else's crazy problem. Good luck
    Zero charisma

  23. #23
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    I just got a set of Pro 2's for my SS so no service needed for a while. Just wondering if Slick Honey is suitable for this purpose when the time comes. I've got a tube and like it's thin/less tacky nature.
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

  24. #24
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    Thanks, JC!

    I followed your instructions and converted my rear hub to 10mm TA with a DT RWS

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmadrigal/1106242501/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1413/1106242501_c0bc26a26f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Hope Pro 10mm TA" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmadrigal/1107092146/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1351/1107092146_9f9792e076_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="DT RWS and Hope Pro 2" /></a>

  25. #25
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    Nice! I'm going to be doing the same on mine. I've found the Hope skewers to be less than stellar with remaining tight when thrown through the rocks. It's still an ongoing problem.

  26. #26
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    I seem to be one of the lucky few who haven’t had any issues with Hope skewers.

    Even so, the DT conversion looks like a nice little upgrade…

  27. #27
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    Thanks JC for the write up, excellent job.

    Really torn right now between building up a set of Pro II/5.1's or a set up standard flange I9's with 5.1 rims.

    Still researching/reading/thinking, but the Pro II's look like ALOTTA bang for the buck.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007

    Still researching/reading/thinking, but the Pro II's look like ALOTTA bang for the buck.

    they are!

    i9s are very sweet though

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by crisillo
    they are!

    i9s are very sweet though

    yes they are.

    Both look easily rebuildable by the rider, and the quality/mechanical internals of both seem top notch, although the I9's seem to have the edge due to faster engagement.

    I am still waiting for the I9 standard flange hubs to become available, but the shop is guessing around $600 for a set. That's only $125 more that a similar Hope Pro II/5.1 build.

    Tough decision!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    Nice! I'm going to be doing the same on mine. I've found the Hope skewers to be less than stellar with remaining tight ...
    Quote Originally Posted by Crisillo
    I followed your instructions and converted my rear hub to 10mm ...
    Just wanted to check that standard drop outs that uses QR will take a 10mm bolt through?

    Cris, your 575 uses QR and you managed to use a 10mm axel with it? Presume you have to mount the wheel first then slide the axel through?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by chinaman
    Just wanted to check that standard drop outs that uses QR will take a 10mm bolt through?

    Cris, your 575 uses QR and you managed to use a 10mm axel with it? Presume you have to mount the wheel first then slide the axel through?
    standard dropouts are 9mm front and 10mm rear...so no problem... I keep the axle on the hub and just tighten or loosen to get it in or out... just like a regular QR
    Last edited by crisillo; 08-19-2007 at 09:00 AM.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by crisillo
    standard dropouts are 9mm front and 10mm rear...so no problem...
    Cheers Cris. That is massively new to me. Am thinking of building a new AM rig and was deciding on whether to go 10mm TA rear or QR? Does not matter now as it will fit any frame with std rear dropouts. But it will be TA.

    BTW loved you new black ano front triangle. Give your LBS a push ... too slow ... too slow

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by chinaman
    Cheers Cris. That is massively new to me. Am thinking of building a new AM rig and was deciding on whether to go 10mm TA rear or QR? Does not matter now as it will fit any frame with std rear dropouts. But it will be TA.

    BTW loved you new black ano front triangle. Give your LBS a push ... too slow ... too slow

    thanks, chinaman.... yeah.. normally I install the headsets myself..but since it is a CK..I rather do it "right"...also I don't have the tool to whack it out

  34. #34
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    Superb !

    JC - I'd just like to thank you for the step by step service instructions of the Pro II rear. I have found them invaluable when my hub went all squeaky and wrong (with a few hours use it wouldn't spin one complete revolution !!) after I trusted a supposedbly well reputed shop to change my axle from QR to 'bolt in'. Should have done it myself in the first place because in the end I stripped it down with your instructions and put it together correctly.

    It ran a lot better then but a few weeks later I had a slight squeak - turned out the the outboard bearing in the frehup body had no grease in ???

    Cheers dude !
    Ride hard dudes !

  35. #35
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    Front Pro II and DT Swiss RWS?

    Quote Originally Posted by crisillo
    Thanks, JC!

    I followed your instructions and converted my rear hub to 10mm TA with a DT RWS
    I thinks that's going to be the next upgrade on my prophet.

    Is it possible to convert a front Pro II hub to take a DT Swiss RWS?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Orange Prophet
    I thinks that's going to be the next upgrade on my prophet.

    Is it possible to convert a front Pro II hub to take a DT Swiss RWS?
    not so far.... the front RWS is 9mm and there are no adapters so far.... but send an email to Hope...maybe if we bug them enough they will make them....

  37. #37
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    Good job! Thanks for this...

    Quote Originally Posted by marcus_dukakis
    JC - just a note - I had trouble re-seating the main seal between the freehub body and the hub shell. I couldn't just push the two together and get a good seal. The solution was to seat one half of this seal, and then use the blunt end of teaspoon to pop the remaining edges of the seal into place, while ensuring that a little bit of pressure was being applied to the freehub at the same time.

    It's easy to tell if the seal hasn't seated properly as you will get crazy amounts of drag from the freehub.

    Hope this helps someone - it took me about 2 hours and several hub re-assemblies to figure it out. My main seal was a very hard plastic and seemed a little on the large side. Took about 5 minutes once I worked out how to do it.

    The tip about the main seal behind the hub body definitely helped me out..after several hub re-assemblies!

    Your comment was dead-on...it wasn't seated properly, and created major drag. Like a dumbazz, I thought my grease (Phil's) was too thick, and pulled it apart and re-lubed with some lighter DuMond stuff.

    Turns out it was just the seal.
    Johnny Ryall rode MTB

  38. #38
    Ancient Winged Rider
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    I have a question, after the rebuild, changing the grease was the hub quieter?

  39. #39
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    Well, I opted for a different type of grease that doesn't quiet it down. It does the opposite, in fact. You can add more volume of a viscous lube and it will be quieter for a while, but eventually go back to the way it was sooner or later. If you use too much lube, however, you will end up affecting the engagement and could even possibly cause slipping. The threshold for that is not something I want to experiment with.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by crisillo
    not so far.... the front RWS is 9mm and there are no adapters so far.... but send an email to Hope...maybe if we bug them enough they will make them....
    An email has been dispatched!

    I take it the rear end is relatively simple to convert?

  41. #41
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    Very. There's actually a thread on the Turner forum somewhere with a picture showing the axle with the skewer inside.

    I have a feeler out to Ventanarama about the parts needed for my conversion.

    I am also awaiting to speak to Phil (had some time troubles) about this conversion and what people are expecting to do with it. I was referred by Don and Monkamoo to do this and Phil was waiting to hear details.

  42. #42
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    I attempted the rear hub rebuild per Jerked Chicken's instructions and everything was going smoothly until I got to the step where you remove the axle. Tapping the rotor side of the axle wasn't doing it for me. Is there a special trick here? Do you just go for it with a wooden mallet?

  43. #43
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    yeah.. just hit the axle from the non-drive side.. just don't go "caveman" on it

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by crisillo
    yeah.. just hit the axle from the non-drive side.. just don't go "caveman" on it
    When I replaced the bearings in my Hope XC rear hub a short while ago, I used a hole saw to cut a hole just slightly larger than the bearings in a piece of wood. I then placed the drive side of the axle through the hole resting the drive side hub flange on the wood. I then rested another small block of wood on the axle and hammered it out.

    This worked well except for the fact that I ended up having to retension and redish the wheel afterwards due to the drive side spokes being pressed (during the hammering) to better conform to the hub flange.

    Perhaps I didn't go far enough with my woodworking? It occurs to me now that I could have routed some small grooves in the wood so that the spokes would not have been impacted.

    What do the rest of you do to support the hub without pressing on the spokes?

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinB

    What do the rest of you do to support the hub without pressing on the spokes?
    I just held the wheel "vertically" (tube and tire were installed) with one hand and hit the axle with a rubber mallet... it only took a couple of solid hits to get it moving...
    Last edited by crisillo; 09-26-2007 at 02:21 PM.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by crisillo
    I just help the wheel "vertically" (tube and tire were installed) with one hand and hit the axle with a rubber mallet... it only took a couple of solid hits to get it moving...
    Wow. That's just too easy...

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by crisillo
    ... I just held the wheel "vertically" (tube and tire were installed) with one hand and hit the axle with a rubber mallet ... it only took a couple of solid hits to get it moving ...
    Expecting delivery of my Hope Pro IIs with DT 5.1 rims and ... DT 10mm RWS thru bolt QR with the Hope conversion bolt thru kit tomorrow.

    Cant wait to have a go ... with this much resource cant go wrong but will keep fingers crossed.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by chinaman
    Expecting delivery of my Hope Pro IIs with DT 5.1 rims and ... DT 10mm RWS thru bolt QR with the Hope conversion bolt thru kit tomorrow.

    Cant wait to have a go ... with this much resource cant go wrong but will keep fingers crossed.

    You'll love it!


    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmadrigal/1347062897/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1347/1347062897_148e48bdb7.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="2008 Shimano Deore XT brakes" /></a>

  49. #49
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    Great thread.

    I just finished converting my rear form QR to the DT 10mm TA. Went pretty smoothly, though I noticed a couple of things.

    Taking everything apart was pretty easy, though I used too much rubber mallet and ended up launching the axle and bearing across the living room floor. Ooops.

    I used a piece of pvc to remove the bearing from the old axle and put it on the new.

    Then, when I went to put the new axle and bearing back in, I ended up popping the brake side bearing out. I tapped it back in with a socket, then had to check to make sure both sides were evenly seated. A minor detail, but worth noting.

    Of course, I had tons of drag when I put it back together, so I went back and read the thread, and found the answer--my freewheel seal was not seated. Problem solved.

    Two thumbs up!

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Random Drivel
    Taking everything apart was pretty easy, though I used too much rubber mallet and ended up launching the axle and bearing across the living room floor. Ooops.
    that happened to me too

  51. #51
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    you didn't remove the ratchet ring in your pictorial. is this possible just as easily, as the rest of the procedure?

  52. #52
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    The ratchet ring is supposedly screwed in and back-threading it is supposed to be an impossible operation.

  53. #53
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! well

    its been 3 weeks and im still waitin for my hope pro 11"s ,another week to wait,f@$k it,australia aint got s@$t in the way of these hubs
    "do the things you fear and the death of fear is certain"

  54. #54
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    been waiting for Hope Hoops since 27/8/2007!
    Have been shiped, should arrive next week!
    ALELUIA!

  55. #55
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    Does anyone know how I can remove the bearing from the axel? (Hope Pro II hub) ... need to change the axel to use the 10mm bolt thru with the DT Swiss 10mm RWS.

    Tried tapping it out with a rubber mallet but does not want to budge at all.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by chinaman
    Does anyone know how I can remove the bearing from the axel? (Hope Pro II hub) ... need to change the axel to use the 10mm bolt thru with the DT Swiss 10mm RWS.

    Tried tapping it out with a rubber mallet but does not want to budge at all.

    I just replied your PM... you need something cylindrical to support the bearing while you "hammer" the axle off with the rubber mallet and do the inverse to get on the other axle..

  57. #57
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    They are not pressed on very tightly, in my experience. When I did the tutorial, they actually popped off inadvertantly.

    You can use the hubshell to tap them out. Put the bearing back into its pocket in the hubshell, then tap the axle through. You then put the new axle through, then try to tap it through the bearing from the other side, which will pop it out, then you need a deep socket or something tubular like PVC to tap it on.

  58. #58
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    Cheers JC

    I sent a PM to Cris as well and he suggested using the bike clamp ...

    Same concept ...

  59. #59
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    For US ProII owners:

    I spoke to Phil yesterday and they do have the steel freehub bodies in stock. They run about $70+shipping.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    For US ProII owners:

    I spoke to Phil yesterday and they do have the steel freehub bodies in stock. They run about $70+shipping.
    cool..I have no problems with the alu one...but good to have an option...

  61. #61
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    All done 10mm rear and 20mm front ...

    Cheers JC & Cris ... once you have done it once .. it all seems so simple ... I can see how dirt can quite easily get into the rear hub through the plastic dirt/dust cover just behind the freehub body.

    I used a cut off from a fork steerer that I kept to push the bearing in on both sides. I do have a habit of collecting bits and bobs. Came in really handy.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by chinaman
    All done 10mm rear and 20mm front ...

    Cheers JC & Cris ... once you have done it once .. it all seems so simple ... I can see how dirt can quite easily get into the rear hub through the plastic dirt/dust cover just behind the freehub body.

    I used a cut off from a fork steerer that I kept to push the bearing in on both sides. I do have a habit of collecting bits and bobs. Came in really handy.
    cool!

    enjoy the 10mm setup

  63. #63
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    Am i allowed to swear?? Because i might.

    Do you know how to remove the cassette from the free hub? I inadvertently removed the whole thing from the hub, cassette and everything. Tried the procedure that was described in your photo's and now its almost impossible to get the free hub to 'snap' back in as you described. I had removed the lock ring from the cassette beforehand. Hope you can help!!

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rmo
    Do you know how to remove the cassette from the free hub? I inadvertently removed the whole thing from the hub, cassette and everything. Tried the procedure that was described in your photo's and now its almost impossible to get the free hub to 'snap' back in as you described. I had removed the lock ring from the cassette beforehand. Hope you can help!!
    with the lockring off, the cassette should just slide off.....

    are you using cassette with an aluminum carrier?

    if you are using a cassette without it, the cassette will gouge the aluminum freehub and get jammed...

  65. #65
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    I'm using a Shimano LX cassette.

    The free hub has normal wear marks like the one one the photo's.

    It just makes it more difficult to get the main seal to pop into the hub.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rmo
    I'm using a Shimano LX cassette.

    The free hub has normal wear marks like the one one the photo's.

    It just makes it more difficult to get the main seal to pop into the hub.
    the LX doesn't use a carrier...so the rings are probably biting into the freehub....

    try to get the hub together and get the cassette off, to check how badly gouged the freehub is...

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by crisillo
    Thanks, JC!

    I followed your instructions and converted my rear hub to 10mm TA with a DT RWS

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmadrigal/1106242501/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1413/1106242501_c0bc26a26f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Hope Pro 10mm TA" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmadrigal/1107092146/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1351/1107092146_9f9792e076_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="DT RWS and Hope Pro 2" /></a>

    crisillo

    question about your brake rotors:
    Have you noticed anything like a faster wear of your disc brake pads? I have the same rotor on my front brake and it took me less than a week to go through a set of disc pads, and that was not even a heavy duty riding, just cruising around.

    Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
    thanks

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by tatankainlondon
    crisillo

    question about your brake rotors:
    Have you noticed anything like a faster wear of your disc brake pads? I have the same rotor on my front brake and it took me less than a week to go through a set of disc pads, and that was not even a heavy duty riding, just cruising around.

    Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
    thanks
    I didn't have any out-of-the-ordinary wear with them.... I use only metallic pads though...were you running organics??

    I have since switched back to the stock rotors, because these get hot really fast and cause some fading.... I guess it's just the amount of material in the rotor... and I am riding the brakes too much

  69. #69
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    JC==Did you notice if the side to side play went away after the hub service? I've only had my hubs for about two months and I've felt the play you mentioned.

  70. #70
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    Thanks for the info. Any info on how to get the front bearings out of a Bulb hub? Thanks, scott
    .
    .

  71. #71
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    there has been some drag on my rear Hope Pro II hub so I think its hight time for a rebuild or at least re-grease it...anything special I should look for that could be causing the dragging?? there has been some nasty noises but Im not totally sure there are coming from the hub....

  72. #72
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    good thread
    gees didn't even know hubs can be rebuilt or serviced.
    i just got my Pro II
    Everyday is a good day, from the Blue Cliff Records, Yun-men (864-949 AD).

  73. #73
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    After dismounting the hub, cleaning and greasing,and then mounting again the hub was dragging more than before!, so I've dismounted the hub again to replace the freewheel bearings and I've found that one of the pawls springs is broken!, now I have to replace it but, could this be causing the excessive dragging of the freewheel or should I replace the freewheel bearings anyway??

    Quote Originally Posted by ban
    there has been some drag on my rear Hope Pro II hub so I think its hight time for a rebuild or at least re-grease it...anything special I should look for that could be causing the dragging?? there has been some nasty noises but Im not totally sure there are coming from the hub....

  74. #74
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    AWWWWWWEEEEEESSSSOOOOMMMEEEEE.

    Thanks for that. Exactly what I was looking for.

    I have about 250km's on my hub.

    Want to make sure I have it for ages.

    Thanks for that.

    Nice pictorial.


  75. #75
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    Awesome thread guys - big cheers goes out to JC

    Hi JC, this is the most useful thread to-date I've come across. Awesome photos and description on the rebuild. I've just received my new Halo Freedom wheels with Hope Pro II hubs. Crisilo, you inspired me to drop a 10mm axel through the hub with the DT axel.

    Brilliant - the Specy Enduro is going to love it. Now if I can get over my foot surgery and get back out in the mud - ace. Cheers for the great thread guys.

    (PS anyone else thinking of droping in a 10mm axel - it's a piece of cake... special thanks goes out to my luvly girlfriend for treating me to the new bits

    Spec_Enduro (DT).JPG

  76. #76
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    Looks sweet, Mark!

    Heal fast and get back on that bike!

  77. #77
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    Another satisfied customer. Easy to follow, I did this in less than 30 minutes yesterday. Thanks JC!

    One question though - Buzzy's Slick Honey - too thin? I used it in the areas you highlighted and it's not a thick tacky grease like Phil Wood blue stuff or automotive bearing grease, but is thinner, more viscous. Everything spins/rotates very nice afterwards and no appreciable difference in the tone/sound of the hub (not what I was after anyway, just servicing the hub which has 1100 miles on it).
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

  78. #78
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    Thanks for this thread, it should help me out a lot, except: I was not able to get the freewheel body off, no matter how much I pulled on it.

    Any secret tricks to get the job done?

  79. #79
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    just gotta pull it.


    I wrapped a rag around the free hub body, grabbed it with a multi grip tool , and tugged away.


    The black washer/seal will pop, and then it's out.


    I had a harder time trying to work out how to get it back together

  80. #80
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    Yeah, I just 'yanked' hard to pull it off and it came off in my hand... (that sounds wrong!). I guess it's a question of grip and fear of breaking something that sometimes holds me back from being too forceful. Refreshinglygood's tip sounds perfect... I'll wish you luck, fingers crossed and good luck with the conversion - you'll love it

  81. #81
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    great article. I pulled the free hub body off and lost one of the springs! I inhertited a wheel with a new bike, the bearings are shot and plan to replace them. I have a bulb rear, is it the same as the Pro2 in that I should tap from the non drive side to get the axle out? so far it seems pretty seized, any ideas?

  82. #82
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    Thanks for the threat.

    I also have a bit of side play in my wheel, so I serviced the hub but the side play isn't gone.
    Somebody know what's the reason for the side play?


    I've also found a video made by Hope how to service the Pro 2:

    http://link.brightcove.com/services/...ctid1445041178

  83. #83
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    Watching that video made me cringe. Man, am I too old-fashioned? I would *never* beat a sealed bearing back onto a shaft I intended to use. I was taught that bearings can be beaten out with a drift only if the intent was to replace the bearing, at which point the new one would be pressed on.

    I do agree that a bearing drifted out with the outer race supported (with a proper bearing tool), is less likely to damage the bearing. But to essentially knock the axle shaft out of the bearing seems like it would damage the inner races and balls.

    What do I know...they are the guys that built it so I guess it's an acceptable practice, but I know my grandfather is rolling over in his grave.

    One quick question. My next upgrade is hubs and the Hope's seem to be the most affordable of the "boutique" hubs. However, just looking at the pics in this thread make me wonder. The free-hub body looks pretty beat up (deep gouges along the cassette splines). Anyone else notice this on their Hope's? I seemed to remember reading that a clyde posted that his got so chewed up that he had to beat the free-body off the hub housing. At 225, I'd like to know the score before I buy....

    R/
    Dustin

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Konish
    One quick question. My next upgrade is hubs and the Hope's seem to be the most affordable of the "boutique" hubs. However, just looking at the pics in this thread make me wonder. The free-hub body looks pretty beat up (deep gouges along the cassette splines). Anyone else notice this on their Hope's? I seemed to remember reading that a clyde posted that his got so chewed up that he had to beat the free-body off the hub housing. At 225, I'd like to know the score before I buy....

    R/
    Dustin
    Mine did that when I was using a low budget cassette. If you use an XT, 990 or 980 the problem isn't as bad.

    I would never use this hub with a SS conversion.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan51
    Mine did that when I was using a low budget cassette. If you use an XT, 990 or 980 the problem isn't as bad.

    I would never use this hub with a SS conversion.
    correcty...cassettes with alu spiders will be fine

    I used my "regular" pro 2 as an SS converted hub without issue ....just use a cog with a wide base and no prob!

  86. #86
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    They also have a stainless hub.

  87. #87
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    @ban Where can you buy pawl springs for your pro2 hub? I'm just asking incase but knock on wood that would not happen.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoy
    @ban Where can you buy pawl springs for your pro2 hub? I'm just asking incase but knock on wood that would not happen.
    here: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=18780

  89. #89
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    Update:

    Over two years of service, now in two continents. I noted a clicking on occasion, with the onset of power application. Very minor, nothing else. I suspected I had something going on inside the freehub. I finally opened it today and discovered two broken pawl springs, both opposing one another. Luckily, I put a lot of grease in that pocket because the pieces were glued to the freehub in the grease.

    So I'm figuring now that if you get an occasional "creak" or "click", check your pawl springs. Since they are wear and tear items anyhow, keep a set on hand, like I didn't (although I have spare wheels).

    Of note- the remaining two springs looked like they were showing their age as well, in that they don't stick up as far anymore.

    So again, start checking your pawl springs. I guess if you ride more than me, look into inspecting them yearly, then at 18 months and 24 or so. It's easy to do while you check the bearings and make sure things are clean. Perhaps the lesson is to change them every 18 months or so, since they are cheap.

    As an added bonus: bearings were clean, and so was the engagement area. I use tons of grease as a barrier, and filled the bearings with grease as well. The grease was relatively clean and fluid. There was no evidence of water, despite the fact that I had just moments before sprayed everything directly with hot water from the showerhead in the bathtub

  90. #90
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    My hub creaks when applying hard, out-of-seat power. For me it's caused by water getting in the hub. It's usually about 2 weeks after a rain ride, or deep creek crossing before the noise starts. When I take it apart, I find a little bit of water in there, even if a few months have passed since the hub got wet.
    A quick hub overhaul gets things quiet again.

    I'll have to start checking the pawls. I hadn't realized they are wear and tear items, but it makes sense.

  91. #91
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    Yeah, just to be on the safe side. My pawls look good, although polished at the tips on the sliding faces, but I think the springs are more wear and tear than anything else.

    As far as water intrusion, I would try to grease every surface, including bearing faces, endcaps, and the main freehub seal. To date, I have not had water intrusion in the back, or at least anything to speak of that would be beyond condensation moisture, but like I said, everything that's a barrier between the inside and outside is greased thoroughly.

  92. #92
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    recently swapped the axel to a 12mm and noticed a broken spring ...

    20080818 pawl and spring hope pro 2 rear hub MTBR FORUM.jpg
    just wear and tear ...

    but i did note that the inside was well greased up and no contaminants or water ... bottom line ... grease it up to prevent any dirt or muck getting in ...

  93. #93
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    I think broken ProII springs do happen, as I've read some CRC.com reviews as well. Perhaps Hope can either work on a more fatigue-resistant material,or something thicker. In my case, nearly two years of usage is pretty good, with the longest part of the service being the exterior cleaning.

  94. #94
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    mine broke

    All 4 of my pawl springs broke during one ride- and I've only had this hub for 7 months!
    wtf!

  95. #95
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    Call or email Hope.

  96. #96
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    thats gotta be a rarity

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    Thanks for that, very useful, might attempt that conversion at some point over the winter

    I inadvertently got to see the ratchet and pawl bit of my rear hub yesterday when I had to fit a couple of new spokes. I was trying to get the cassette of the freehub body and it wouldn't budge, then suddenly the whole thing just pops out. I was a bit worried I'd broken it to be honest but it seemed to go back together easy enough.

    However I don't know what I did wrong, but now the freehub doesn't run so smooth, the cranks still spin when I feewheel, and backpedalling causes my chain to slacken big time. Do you reckon it just needs a clean and re-grease?

    *edit* Ah, just re read the thread and seen that drag can be the result of a seal being not properly seated.
    Last edited by dtism; 11-17-2008 at 07:08 AM.

  98. #98
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    JC, thanks for the beta. Cleaned and regreased the 2+ year old SS/trials hub in about 15 minutes. Almost easier than changing a tire.

    I used a bit of Phil grease on the teeth, and some lighter lube on the springs. Went back together and sounds good as ever.

    And no tools required!

  99. #99
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    Ok......in the middle of this.

    I've got the two end caps off and the hub body removed. I'm trying to get the axle out by tapping it from the rotor side. I started to wail on it but thought I might want to consult this thread to ensure I'm not missing something.

    Any tips or secrets to this? Do I even need to remove the axle for a basic cleaning/overhaul?

    Cheers,
    EB

  100. #100
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    Nope, not needed. Unless you want to get everything in one shot, however. If you're worried about it being wet inside or gunked up.

    The axle will pop right out with a bearing, depending on which side you start tapping from. No big deal.

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