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  1. #1
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    Hope BB upgrade for YT Capra

    If this is redundant and has been covered somewhere else any help in that direction would be appreciated, as I couldn't seem to find anything with actual numbers. Has anyone upgraded their race face turbine cinch cranks to a hope BB? I have a 2016 Capra AL Comp 1 and the creak is untenable. I took some measurements on my bike and the shell width + 2 cups = ~94 mm. Hope has 2 bottom brackets that will fit (PF46, 73 mm width shell):

    http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/u...-5_09-2015.pdf

    or

    Hope BB upgrade for YT Capra-hope1.png

    one is 73 mm wide and the other is 96.5 which is about the same (I use a 2.5mm spacer on the drive side). I was wondering if anyone has installed either or these with success, and am leaning towards the 73 mm width as that would give me plenty of chainline adjustment, but would need the right spacers (not sure which ones exactly). The 96.5 one would be the same as my current one but would leave little to no room for chainline adjustment. Any help/insight in appreciated!

  2. #2
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    When I went to a 1x system with an oval ring, I bought a Turbine crankset, but used the BB from the Hope crankset that I had been using. Mine was a threaded BB, Race Face instructions said total BB width with cups needed to be something like 98mm +/- 1mm. My Hope setup was somewhere in the area of 96mm, so I ordered a couple spacers of various sizes, moved the 2.5mm spacer to the non-drive side, between the shell and the cup, and I think a .7mm between the shell and cup on the drive side, moving my chainline in from 49 to around 47.2. I think, numbers are a bit hazy without looking them up.

    Pedals great, the slight back pedal issue I was having is gone, and the Hope BB spins like buttah. But then again, this was the threaded, and not a press-fit, but I'm sure their press-fit are topnotch as well.

    Not sure what width to advise you to get, as that whole spacing concept and the various BB standards just confuses me.

  3. #3
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    Race Face instructions said total BB width with cups needed to be something like 98mm +/- 1mm

    Is this for the old style race face cranks or the new cinch cranks? I haven't been able to find any technical documentation on their website about it. I just talked to a race face tech guy as well and he didn't even know...

    Thanks for the response though.

  4. #4
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    New Cinch crankset. Yeah, that's odd, I just went to the Race Face website, and the pdf for their crankset install instructions has changed. It used to show a required measurement for the BB shell distance with cups installed, but now there's just a note saying "see spindle length table". Now, I'm not sure what spindle length table they're talking about, and i don't see anything on their site re cranks or bb about spindle length requirements for BB widths.

    Anyway, on the Hope pdf that you linked to, that width shown is for the "fully assembled over seal rings" whatever those are. As I said, I'm not familiar with press fit, as all my bikes are threaded BB's. But if you scroll up that page to the threaded BB's, you'll see that the 30mm 73mm wide threaded one measures out at 96.5mm. The install instructions I had with my Cinch crank said that the BB with cups needed to be 98.1mm wide, +/- 1mm. So the Hope BB with the 2.5mm spacer on the drive side is about .6mm too narrow.

    Now my Hope cranks had a 49mm chainline. Even with that, when backpedaling the largest cog, I would experience some chain drop. So I wanted to move it in a little bit. I moved the 2.5mm spacer to the non-drive side, and added, I think, a .7mm spacer on the drive side. All spacers between the cups and the BB shell. So now I had an assembled BB width of 97.2 mm, within the +/- 1mm needed, and a chainline of 47.2. No more chain drop.

    With the pressfit, you add spacers on the crank spindle itself to adjust chainline, right? As I said, the Cinch crankset required the fully assembled BB to be 98mm wide. At the time, those are the directions I had. Not sure what they require now, as, like you say, I can't find it anywhere.

    And maybe the pressfit ones are different. But if it's still the same, I would think the 73mm wide one would be way too much space to try to fill up, and if you didn't, you'd have a lot of crank spindle sticking out. Like about a centimeter on each side.

    Anyway, here's a link to the instructions that came with my crankset.

    http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/fat...rience-rfc.jpg

  5. #5
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    With the pressfit, you add spacers on the crank spindle itself to adjust chainline, right?

    Yeah you add spacers on the spindle as you really don't want to remove and reinstall press fit BB's too many times. If the required width is 98 mm I should be fine as I can just use spacers to get the chainline correct, and be able to tighten the cinch mechanism.

    Those instructions are the same ones I found as well, I looked at their spindle chart:

    http://www.raceface.com/media/Crank_...chainlines.pdf

    I have the 134 spindle so I will just measure how much width the cinch ring is (with a touch extra room to tighten it down) and that should give me a number to go off of.

    Here is the creak as well, almost 100% sure its the BB as I have systematically dissected the bike to try and find it. The video description is harsh but needs to be said.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orCx...ature=youtu.be

  6. #6
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    That is annoying. Did you look at seatpost, cradle, and seat rails as maybe the cause?

  7. #7
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    Yes, and it does it whether I am seated or standing. I ordered the hope BB yesterday.

  8. #8
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    Interested in hearing the results.

  9. #9
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    So I finally broke down and took it to my LBS to have them investigate, and they told me they have lots of issues with race face cinch creaking. Dropped it off and they said they checked the frame pivots (I already cleaned and greased these many times), cleaned the drivetrain (I use rock n roll gold every other ride, sometimes every ride), and removed and regreased the cranks (did this as well). I did notice grease coming out of the dust seals on the cranks, but I haven't had a peep since then although I have only taken it on a few quick rides, and I have silenced it before but it comes back 20-30 minutes into a ride. I also noticed the rear axle tightens in a different spot so I am pretty sure he took the derailleur hanger off and regreased that. It does look like the cinch plastic retainer is tighter, but I have always tightened it down pretty good.

  10. #10
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    Finally took it for a few hours long ride Sunday and the creak is back...sounding just as horrible as before. I checked the pedals/rear derailleur bolt while riding, the bolt was a touch loose but tightening it didn't help at all, pedals were tight. Checked the frame pivot torques when I got back and everything was fine. I have the Hope BB but have not installed it yet, and took some measurements to help out anyone who comes across this thread:

    Race Face:
    drive side cup sticks out 10.5 mm from shell + 2.5 mm spacer
    non drive side cup sticks out 10.5 mm from shell
    shell width 73 mm (46 mm ID) w/ 30 mm crank spindle
    total width = 96.5 mm

    Hope BB:
    drive side cup sticks out 12.75 mm from shell
    non drive side cup sticks out 10.25 mm from shell
    shell width 73 mm (46 mm ID) w/ 30 mm crank spindle
    total width = 96 mm (although hope site says 96.5 mm, I took these measurements by caliper)

    I won't need a 2.5 mm spacer as the drive side cup is just wider.

  11. #11
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    Installed the Hope BB today and no creaking so far. After taking a look at the race face BB I realized how horrible of a design it is (and press fits in general). I can't believe the race face BB actually made it to production I would be embarrassed if I designed something this bad.

  12. #12
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    Went for a ride today again...started to creak again towards the end of the ride...back to square one. No bike shop has been able to figure it out either. At least I know the BB is the right size and has more room for chainline adjustments, although it did move the chainline toward the BB slightly (1.25 mm closer or half a 2.5 mm spacer) but I did notice it shifts better.

  13. #13
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    hey,any updates on what happened , i have the same issue on a capra cf pro race ,cant figure that god dam creak, wanted to go the hope bb reaplacement route but looks like is not the case.with mine only happens under pedal load, thanks and hope you sorted it out.

  14. #14
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    ok so just found out where my sound came from ,that made me strip all the bike and bearings and grease every single bolt, was from the direct mount of the race face crank set,i know i should have checked that one first, hope this will help other with wierd sounds. happy smashing trails

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