Hollowtech II or square taper crank?
I got my old road bike fixed now. Turns out the BB wasnt bad just needed tightening, but I went and replaced it anyway. So now I have a new square taper BB.
The crank seems bent thouh. You can see the chainrings moving back and forth slightly each revolution. Only thing left for it to be is the crank itself is bent. Maybe one of the 5 mount points.
So I am looking now to get a new crank. I looked at some square taper cranks and they seem to start at $50. That seems like a lot for a simple crank. All I need is the drive side crank arm.
Looks like I can get a whole crankset for cheap if I go away from the square taper. Many of these cranks have the BB sort of built in too. Should I just jump to the hollowtech and get a full new crankset. Or have I missed some compatability issue. My rear gears are 6 speeds and this is quite old as you can tell from having a square taper...
Thanks for advice.
P.S. its a double ring crankset.
Last edited by dnoyeb; 07-23-2008 at 03:04 PM.
$50 is cheap for a crankset, which is one of the three most expensive parts on a road bike (after the wheelset and the brifters). A good crankset usually runs north of $100 and can be a LOT more expensive than that (Price Dura-Ace or Record crakns sometime, NOT cheap).
Originally Posted by dnoyeb
There's absolutely no good reason to run a 2-piece crank on a road bike. You get shorter bearing life and less adjustability and they cost more money. Square Taper is where its at for road bikes. Also note that while you can use a MTB square taper crank on a road bike by using a shorter spindle, you can't do the same with a MTB Hollowtech II crank as the chainline will be too far out (MTB 2-piece cranks have a 50mm chainline, road bikes usually have a 43.5mm chainline).
You can always hit up ebay if you need something uber-cheap. But a Sugino XD300 or similar for $60-70 makes a nice upgrade (It's a triple, but you can remove the granny).
Square taper was still on top of the line road bikes into 2006. Also still current on the track.
Originally Posted by thecrazyfinn
Just keep those bolts snug. I just got a Karate monkey and I torqued the bolts like crazy. Then at mile 50, the left crank arm came off. Game over. The last set of MTB cranks I had with square taper did this as well. One ride ... crank fell off ... game over ... time for splines. Of course, your mileage may vary according to how much pressure you put on the crank arms.
Splines and HollowtechII are "set it and forget it". Hollowtech II is just altogether stiffer.
Square taper may be cheaper but ... you get what you pay for.
Here JensonUSA is clearning out 105 cranksets for $75: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Crankset.aspx
A bottom bracket should cost you another $20-$30 and you'll be in business.