Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    59

    HELP stripped cranks trying to pull

    This is not the first time i've pulled cranks, BUT this time as I was trying to pull a shimano rsx crank (rt side) the crank puller instead pulled out the threads. so, I switched to the left side, made super sure it was seated, and then "crack": the center pin of the crank puller snapped. I put it back in figuring it could still work, and it pulled the threads out on the left as well.
    any ideas--how do i get the cranks off now? Since they are stripped i figure i will upgrade cranks, but other than doing a sawzall onthe BB spindle I can't think of how to get them off (and i'd rather not kill the BB unless i have to)

    thanks,
    jim

  2. #2
    nachos rule!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    391
    grab a hacksaw, dremel, etc. and chop the arms away from the bb spindle. given that the arms are aluminum & the spindle is steel, with a modicum of care you can get the arms off with nary a scratch on the spindle flats. cut as far through as you dare, then give 'em a good yank and they should come free. if they still don't budge drive a cold chisel into the saw slots to crack things loose, then yank 'em off. take your time and it should be a piece of cake.

    make sure and grease or anti-sieze those spindle flats when you install your new cranks the insure this doesn't happen again.

    best of luck, eric
    plus a change, plus c'est la m'me chose - alphonse karr

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    59

    thanks supercorsa

    i will do that--have all i need except cold chisel--hope i won't need one.

    i did grease (think it is basic white (lithium?) grease), should i use another kind?
    jim

  4. #4
    all hail der Fuhrer Bush
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,635

    no grease

    In my three-plus decades of bicycle wrenching, I have yet to put anything on square-taper bottom bracket spindles when installing crank arms. Install them on clean bone-dry spindle tapers, I say. So do a lot of the worlds better bicycle mechanics.
    Only time I've ever stripped the crank arm threads is when I forgot to remove the washers that often stay in the holes after removing the bolts.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    449
    Those washers are a killer.

    As for getting the cranks off, I've had good luck with removing the bolts and riding... they'll eventually fall off or loosen enough that you can pull them off without tools.

  6. #6
    On MTBR hiatus :(
    Reputation: Speedub.Nate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    9,145
    Doh! A healthy coat of anti-sieze goes on all of my square taper cranks to (hopefully) prevent any type of corrosion from "gluing" my crank arms to the bottom bracket. No problems yet, and I've lubricated square tapers with zero problems since I was too young to "know better". Installed with proper torque, I've got a pair of '89-ish LX and '96 Sugino squares that have made the switch to various bikes (with anti-sieze) and are holding up just fine.

    Another option for removing yours is a small gear wheel puller, which you can rent for a buck or two if you have a good tool rental shop nearby.
    speedub.nate
    MTBR Hiatus UFN

  7. #7
    Basura Blanca
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,751
    Got a propane torch? I'm 2 for 2 with that method of removing stripped crank arms with no trouble. Focus the flame on the base of the crank arm for ~10 seconds, then give a good rap on the back of the crank arm with a mallet, and it'll often pop right off. Disclaimer: This is a bad idea, don't do it, you'll ruin your paint, you'll toast your BB, you'll burn yourself, blah blah.
    Good luck,
    - Joe

  8. #8
    A Midwesterner in Europe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    116
    I'd also try riding them with the bolts off, if that don't work, then I'd get the tuning fork looking tool and a hammer.

    And don't grease the tapers, that leads to false tightness and isn't necessary.

  9. #9
    On MTBR hiatus :(
    Reputation: Speedub.Nate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    9,145
    Quote Originally Posted by j.king

    And don't grease the tapers, that leads to false tightness and isn't necessary.
    Oh boy. And what, prey tell, is "false tightness"? I'm all ears.
    speedub.nate
    MTBR Hiatus UFN

  10. #10
    nachos rule!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    391

    to grease or not to grease...

    this topic got hammered rather thoroughly over in tooltime a while back, read thru the thread yourself and draw your own conclusion.

    Opinions on greasing BB spindles?

    with all due respect to club, who i've never met but i generally agree with as he seems to be a kindred soul of the retrogrouch brotherhood, my experience has been the exact opposite. 3 decades of wrenching, always greasing the flats, and nary a problem.

    -eric

    ps: hey jim, how did the butchering go??

    regarding your grease question; any grease is better than no grease, but anti-sieze is better that grease. that said, i've used every flavor of grease imaginable over the years, and they all worked just fine. i'd say the primary contributing factor to you yanking your threads out is the fact that rsx cranks, being a low end model, are cast (they may actually call it melt-forged, a glorified casting process) and not cold forged. this results in a much weaker end product. if you'd been dealing with xt/xtr grade cranks you probably wouldn't have pulled the threads.
    plus a change, plus c'est la m'me chose - alphonse karr

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    59

    update--heat plus riding them works

    ps: hey jim, how did the butchering go??

    seemed easier than sawing. got them hot then rode around, repeated and they got loose.
    lucky i have an old set of old (new--was a back up for my bike) kooka cranks that will fit the tapered spindle.

    this was my wife's bike, which i let a buddy ride and all this was to fix a bent middle chainring, which i now have to go buy all new chainrings since my spare was for the RSX and not kooka.

    still a good learning experience.
    thanks to all

    jim

  12. #12
    RJG
    RJG is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RJG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    457

    Loosen bolts and ride hard

    Quote Originally Posted by jimcav
    ps: hey jim, how did the butchering go??

    seemed easier than sawing. got them hot then rode around, repeated and they got loose.
    lucky i have an old set of old (new--was a back up for my bike) kooka cranks that will fit the tapered spindle.

    this was my wife's bike, which i let a buddy ride and all this was to fix a bent middle chainring, which i now have to go buy all new chainrings since my spare was for the RSX and not kooka.

    still a good learning experience.
    thanks to all

    jim
    I was too late but i was going to suggest the remove the bolts half way and ride in a hard geer technique. This works but takes time.
    RJ

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    68

    Stronglight

    Its a bit late, but Stronglight makes (did make?) a tap and an oversize puller for when you do this.

  14. #14
    Basura Blanca
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,751
    You probably tried this, but my experience with most cranksets has been that you need not remove the cranks in order to replace a middle ring. Just remove the big ring first, and then you can usually get the middle ring off by manuevering it to clear the spider. Figured I'd mention it for future reference. If you tried that earlier, then nevermind.
    - Joe

  15. #15
    shut up and pedal
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    281
    Oh the square taper stuck on deal.
    I have stripped the puller threads also. Had to use a giant size double jaw puller to finally get them off.
    Thats why I went with ISIS splines, oh well they have issues also. Somthing so simple causes so much frustration.
    Ride.

Similar Threads

  1. VP Free due in tomorrow!
    By PattD in forum Santa Cruz
    Replies: 35
    Last Post: 01-10-2005, 06:41 PM
  2. XTR cranks on a SS
    By Winky in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-26-2004, 11:27 AM
  3. profile design carbon cranks?
    By jh_on_the_cape in forum Weight Weenies
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-09-2004, 07:32 AM
  4. what are my options for square-taper compatible cranks?
    By scorchy in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-25-2004, 10:56 PM
  5. Difference between LX and XT cranks?
    By RC JonB in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 04-25-2004, 04:51 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •