Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xR1DeRx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    80

    Help with older shimano Cassette

    I'm attempting to remove an older shimano cassette in order to convert the bike to single speed. With the older cassettes the lock ring is external..not the internal one like the newer FW..my quesiton is to remove this lockring is all I pretty much need is a hammer and some pointed instrument to knock it loose. I have the chain whip to hold it in place just wanted to make sure loosen the lockring...however I have heard with older cassettes the first cog is the lock ring...

    Thanks,
    07' Wahoo Disk(Sold)
    08' Lemond Reno(Sold)
    Budget build SS in progress from spare parts...

    JMU Cycling- "Just Huck It"

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: logbiter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,819
    Quote Originally Posted by xR1DeRx
    I'm attempting to remove an older shimano cassette in order to convert the bike to single speed. With the older cassettes the lock ring is external..not the internal one like the newer FW..my quesiton is to remove this lockring is all I pretty much need is a hammer and some pointed instrument to knock it loose. I have the chain whip to hold it in place just wanted to make sure loosen the lockring...however I have heard with older cassettes the first cog is the lock ring...

    Thanks,
    hmm, you could try your rock n hammer method
    there is a tool for the job though...
    eg http://parktool.com/repair/byregion....ageField2.y=11

    tool would cost $7-10 at the LBS
    Attached Images Attached Images
    [SIZE=1][/SIZE]

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xR1DeRx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    80
    I don't think that will work..The lockring is external...it's the one on the bottom of this website...

    http://www.bikepro.com/products/freewheels/shimfw.html
    07' Wahoo Disk(Sold)
    08' Lemond Reno(Sold)
    Budget build SS in progress from spare parts...

    JMU Cycling- "Just Huck It"

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xR1DeRx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    80
    well...it's like that except the center does not have a center hole in it...
    07' Wahoo Disk(Sold)
    08' Lemond Reno(Sold)
    Budget build SS in progress from spare parts...

    JMU Cycling- "Just Huck It"

  5. #5
    All 26.5" all the time!
    Reputation: Zanetti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,855
    The picture from the Bikepro website shows a freewheel, not a cassette.

    See here:http://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html

  6. #6
    Sweep the leg!
    Reputation: Caffeine Powered's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,824
    If he has an old 6, 7 or 8 speed cassette it could have the smallest cog as the "lockring". What he needs is a second chainwhip. Lefty loosey, righty tighty. Oppose the chainwhips with some torque and the smallest cog will turn. When you go to put the freehub to use as a single speed use a common bottom bracket lockring, standard english threading, as a replacement for the smallest cog if you have a bottom bracket lockring tool that is...
    Authorities speculate that speed may have been a factor. They are also holding gravity and inertia for questioning.

  7. #7
    Vaginatarian
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    5,685
    you might be able to use channel lock pliers
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    beerowulf
    Reputation: deadmanschest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    158

    Wink Don't destroy the 14t cog....you need it....

    Quote Originally Posted by xR1DeRx
    I'm attempting to remove an older shimano cassette in order to convert the bike to single speed. With the older cassettes the lock ring is external..not the internal one like the newer FW..my quesiton is to remove this lockring is all I pretty much need is a hammer and some pointed instrument to knock it loose. I have the chain whip to hold it in place just wanted to make sure loosen the lockring...however I have heard with older cassettes the first cog is the lock ring...

    Thanks,
    Thats the original "Uniglide" Shimano freehub body, the predecessor to HyperGlide freehub.

    It has 9 equal splines, no narrow one, as you don't care about ramp alignment. You can put any cog on in any order, but you need the 14t lockcog as there are no internal threads to hold an internal lockring.

    You need two chain whips. Because the 14t lockcog is the "locker" for the cassette, it gets really really really tight, as you pound along in big ring-14t.

    Do not destroy the 14t, you need it. By the by, there were also early HyperGlide that had both internal (lockring) and external (14t lockcog), so its just possible that you have one that uses either. Then you could replace the 14t with an internal lockring, it looks better.

    I still use one. I have a SS conversion, actually I have just made into a DingleSpeed, using the 14t lockring as the cog for the large chainring, and adding a granny cog to the granny ring. The total teeth are equal, so the total chain length is the same. So the 20 year old Uniglde still has some surprises...

    good luck

    dmc

    PS - You need a mod to use newer HyperGlide compatible cogs or SS specific cogs. Because of HyperGlide, the ramped cogs use a narrow 9th spline for alignment. To slip them onto a UniGlide freehub, you need to file out a spline hole in the cog. Use a dremel and or a metal file. It works fine.

    PPS - You can also just transplant a newer HyperGlide freehub onto the wheel. Just be aware that you will have a 6-7 size Uniglide, and any newer 7-8-9 freehub will have different spacing and size. You get into changing spacers on the axle and redishing the wheel , just for the new freehub.

    If the UniGlide is still good, just go with it and file the newer cogs. You can make a serviceable Chainwhip with a length of 1" dowel and a piece of old chain, so you don't need to buy two......

    Cheers

    dmc

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1
    Your description and the bikepro link indiciate that you have a freewheel, not a cassette. Freewheels screw onto the hub as a complete unit. Logbiter shows the correct freewheel tool to remove the freewheel.

    It is highly unlikely that you'll be able to remove a freewheel without the proper tool, as you typically have to mount the tool in a solidly mounted bench vice, then reef on the wheel to loosen the threads. You might want to just take the wheel to a LBS who's been in business for a while - they might charge the same or less than the cost of the tool which you probably only need once.

    With chain whips, all you'll do is remove all the cogs from the freewheel body which will leave you no better off.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •