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  1. #1
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    Grease or dry, crank to BB?

    Starting to pick up a bit of a creak when pedaling, so going thru all the hoops to get rid of it. Pulled the cranks(XT with the good old square spline) & cleaned them up & getting ready to stick them back on. Zinn says to put them on dry, but I've heard others say put a thin film of grease on the mating surfaces.
    What do you do, grease or dry?
    Vance in AK.

  2. #2
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    dry is what i did

    I always left them dry. i was told that if you used grease then u could actually push the crank on too far and damage it - dunno if its entirely true or not. i'd say try no grease and see if ur creaking goes away, if it doesn't then maybe consider the grease option.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vance in AK.
    Starting to pick up a bit of a creak when pedaling, so going thru all the hoops to get rid of it. Pulled the cranks(XT with the good old square spline) & cleaned them up & getting ready to stick them back on. Zinn says to put them on dry, but I've heard others say put a thin film of grease on the mating surfaces.
    What do you do, grease or dry?
    Check out www.parktools.com. The square taper, to my recollection, does not get grease while the splined cranks do.
    Another day in paradise!

  4. #4
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    Cool-blue Rhythm The eternal question

    Quote Originally Posted by Vance in AK.
    ...What do you do, grease or dry?
    The debate continues. I listened to some of the people from this site that seemed pretty knowledgable in my novice wrenching state, and put grease on my UN-72 spindle when installing my RaceFace Turbines. It has been excellent (totally silent and tight) now for over two years. I also put teflon tape on the bb threads, and most importantly torque to specs.

  5. #5
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    Keep it dry...

    Greasing a square taper could cause the crank to be pushed on too far. I had an old LX crank that was blown out due to some grease and a heavy hand on the wrench I still have two bikes with square tapers that I leave totally dry. If you use a torque wrench it should go on tight enough not to creak.

    Also, a creaking noise is more likely to be the bottom bracket in my experience. A loose crank arm will make more of ticking/clicking noise.

  6. #6
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    Thanks guys.
    I put it back together dry, pulled & greases my seatpost, & rotated the swingarm pivot axle a bit & got rid of 99% of the creak. Not sure which it was, but I'm satisfied.
    Vance in AK.

  7. #7
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    Even tho you've already done it, I've been going greaseless on my bb spindles for a long time. I think the biggest creak beater is proper torque when tightening the bb cups as well as the crank arms.
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vance in AK.
    Starting to pick up a bit of a creak when pedaling, so going thru all the hoops to get rid of it. Pulled the cranks(XT with the good old square spline) & cleaned them up & getting ready to stick them back on. Zinn says to put them on dry, but I've heard others say put a thin film of grease on the mating surfaces.
    What do you do, grease or dry?
    I've always used grease since that's the accepted practice everywhere except bicycles for this type of connection. And I've never had a crank failure. But then I also own and actually use a torque wrench to install BB and cranks.

  9. #9
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    Go to a auto parts store and buy some anti-seize. Thats what I use and it works
    fine. You can use that on all bolts that don't need thread-lock.

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