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  1. #1
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    good 'how to' on rear derrailer tuning

    i've had my bike for 10 months now, put 1950 mils on it...the shifting is a little ghosty in the the rear. have to push quicker or a little harder to get some on the gears. i am mechanically inclined but i don't want to compound the problem. rather leave it as is than make the shifting even worse.

    is there a good website with techinical info on this...i've got an XT rear derrailer
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  2. #2
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    I could use some help on this issue as well. My front derrailer is giving me problems. It rubs against the chain when I am in high gears running the middle sprocket. If I am running the big sprocket on a road or somthing I am constantly rubbing. THe Park Tool site explains it, but they lost me. I am not sure if I need to adjust the 2 L and R screws on the front derrailer or if I need to unclamp the derrailer and rotate it to line up (it looks lined up properly) OR if I need to screw with the tension of the shifting cable for the front derrailer. If thats the case I will jsut take it to the LBS, me screwing with the cable wouldnt be a good thing!

  3. #3
    The endless excuses guy
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    This is a great site with easy to follow instructions
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/
    They also publish a book which is a staple of mine
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  4. #4
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    I checked out the Park TOol site and tried to follow the directions and Its basicly one of those 3 things I mentioned. Which one is my problem. I rotating teh derrailer to make sure its parralell with the chain. I also tried adjusting the L and H screws and I noticed no difference. The only option I havent tried is the cable..have to talk with my LBS on that one.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dshighway
    I checked out the Park TOol site and tried to follow the directions and Its basicly one of those 3 things I mentioned. Which one is my problem. I rotating teh derrailer to make sure its parralell with the chain. I also tried adjusting the L and H screws and I noticed no difference. The only option I havent tried is the cable..have to talk with my LBS on that one.

    If you can't pinpoint the problem because you are inexperienced than do it all. Heck loosen the pinch bolt on the cable, move the derailer arround, start from scratch. Go thru all the steps to set up the derailer then you will see how it works and have a better understanding. If you totaly screw it up just go to the shop and have them adjust it. Generally the cost of a derailer adjustment is the same wheather the guy just turns one screw or spends a half an hour on it.

  6. #6
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    [QUOTE=logbiter]if memory serves, you'll need to tighten the screw to make the der. cage move outward, just enough so that it doesn't rub in the bottom smallest half of the cassette.
    QUOTE]

    The screws act as stops for how far the derailer can swing so it's loosen and thats only half the story. He may need to adjust the cable to pull the derailer higher. The drailer may be positioned to low/high on the frame or at an angle, etc... Read the park stuff. It has pictures and can help you better than this forum

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dshighway
    I checked out the Park TOol site and tried to follow the directions and Its basicly one of those 3 things I mentioned. Which one is my problem. I rotating teh derrailer to make sure its parralell with the chain. I also tried adjusting the L and H screws and I noticed no difference. The only option I havent tried is the cable..have to talk with my LBS on that one.
    OK, DS, we're talking about a front derailler issue now, right?
    Shift to the big ring up front and small ring in back (hardest gear combo).
    Does the chain rub in this position? or in the next fews cogs in back?
    If so, you need to adjust the high screw, if memory serves, you'll need to tighten the screw to make the der. cage move outward, just enough so that it doesn't rub in the bottom smallest half of the cassette.
    It's ok if it rubs in the easier gears, cuz at this point you should've switched to your middle ring up front, so you're not cross chaining, which leads to faster wear on your drivetrain. You should be able to run all the rear cogs in the middle ring.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamantane
    i've had my bike for 10 months now, put 1950 mils on it...the shifting is a little ghosty in the the rear. have to push quicker or a little harder to get some on the gears.
    This sounds similar to the shifting problems that I had been having recently.

    I tried readjusting the derailleur, but it was still sluggish at shifting and shifting to a lower gear took more thumb effort than expected.

    I tried lubing the cable. I've never had success with this in the past, but I recently purchased some Bike Aid (also known as Dri-Slide) lubricant having heard that this stuff sometimes works wonders. But not this time; shifting might have been marginally better, but not by much.

    I ended up replacing the two sections of cable housing nearest to the derailleur. This solved the problem for me. Shifting now requires less effort and gear engagement is quicker.

    You should also check the inner cable to make sure that it's not worn or frayed. On another occasion, I found that the cable had become frayed near the shift levers.

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