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  1. #1
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    Going 1x9, some questions on parts

    I'm going 1x9 and I believe I've picked out the appropriate parts, but I'm not doing anything without checking with the great internet first.

    I have a 2009 Trek 4300. It has a Shimano Deore rear derailleur which I'm told is both 8 and 9 speed compatible so I should be able to use the same one, yeah?

    I have selected:
    Truvativ Stylo 1.1 Single GXP 32x180mm
    Sram PG970 9 Speed Cassette 12-26
    Shimano Deore ST-M530 Shifter / Brake Lever 9 Speed

    I'm going to let my LBS handle the installation so I'll pick up a chain from them. I believe all that's left is a chain guide? I don't HAVE to get it from the same site, but I'll save on shipping if I do. The only choices there are these: http://store.icyclesusa.com/chain-guides-c1870.aspx

    I wouldn't know a good chain guide from a bad one as I've never used one before. Please advise.

    One final question. Single speed and nine speeds have different chains. The crank I've chosen says it's single speed. Is it compatible with a nine speed chain or did I completely select the wrong one?

    Thank you for your time! Happy Black Friday!

  2. #2
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    Maybe I'm asking too much..... I'll simplify it.

    Is this good enough or do I need something fancier? N Gear Jump Stop

    Is this crank compatible for 1x9, or is it strictly single speed? Truvativ Stylo 1.1 Single GXP 32x180mm

  3. #3
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    yeah man that crank should work. if you think about it its just like any other crank its just missing the other rings....
    Example: if you have a 27sp set up and only using the middle chain ring...... Big ring delete, small ring delete .....your left using the 32t ring... your rear derailleur will do the same work its always done.


    i dont THINK you need a chain guide.... but im sure someone will call me out on that

  4. #4
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    You really don't need to buy a new crank, unless you want to try a new crank - the small and big rings could be removed(from your current crank) leaving you with your 32 middle ring. If you go this route, you'll need either a bashguard(check BBGbashguard.com) or a chain keeper that holds the chain over the middle ring(like the MRP 1.x). The crank you linked to will work for a 1x9 setup.

    I'd suggest a cassette other than the one you are looking at - the cassette you have linked to is 11-26 road bike gearing. You either want a 11-32 or 11-34 for your setup - preferably 11-34 for a 1x9 setup.

    Once you make the change, have your chain shortened as well - the chain will stay in place better.

    You'll need some type of device to keep the chain from dropping - either jumpstop, 3rd eye chain watcher, or inner bashguard, if going the outer bashguard route. If you go with the MRP 1.x or Paul Chain Keeper(or similar), that's all you will need up front to keep the chain on(but, you dont have the option to run a bashguard).

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

    Well, I'm concerned the teeth on my current middle ring are getting worn. Plus I'd like to take the opportunity to go to a 180mm crank (vs 175). Plus I must have money burning a hole in my pocket .

    As for the cassette, I did the math on the ratios and this would give me more gears in the range that I actually use and I only lose a little bit off the top and bottom.

    And I guess I'll grab the 3rd Eye Chain Watcher. Iirc I saw that at the same website.

    Thanks!

  6. #6
    FM
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    12-26 is basically road touring gearing. Your easiest gear will be a 32-26 which is pretty tall. But not as tall as what most single-speeders run, so maybe you'll be OK... too tall for me though! The singlespeed crankset will work fine with 9-speed.

  7. #7
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    To avoid wasting your money, ride a week with the 32 (your current middle gear) and the first few cogs of your current cassette. (to get an idea what a 12-26 feels like).

    Also, most people are going from 175mm to 170 or 165mm, not larger to 180mm. I am 6' 1" so I feel best on a 175mm. But if I was doing DH, XC, or road, a 170mm crank is a bit more efficient. Think of how high you lift your foot up when you run. That eliptical motion is only about 50-60mm (in the vertical direction). Now do a high step run (knees to horizonal), it is very inefficient.

    But that is not what you asked.

    Regarding the chainguide, it really depends on your terrain, and how well you keep forward rotation on the cranks. Using a single speed chainring will help. A chain guide of some sort is going to help a lot. If you are still having problems, then a chain tensioner will help as well.
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  8. #8
    dwt
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    I'm running a Stylo 1.1 on my 1 X 9 and if I had to do it over again, would install a 3 speed crank, and replace the outer and inner rings for an outer and inner bash. Or remove the inner and outer rings and install a "real" chainguide. You can't put an inner bash (or ring) on the 1.1 since it has no inner bolt holes. Most of the "real" chain guide systems either come with their own bash or don't use a bash. Such as MRP or E.13.

    I don't think the 3rd eye is a "real" chainguide - it is a "chainkeeper" and designed to prevent chainsuck when shifting to the little ring on geared bikes. The other components you were looking at are "chain tensioners" and are another compromise over a chain guide system.

    This device is made by Truvativ, designed for 2 speed, but may work on your with your 1.1. If it does, please let me know .

    Finally - listen to the other posters: you do NOT want a 12-26 cassette. You will be making a HUGE mistake. 11-34 or 11-36 are the tickets. Better yet, build a 1 X 10 with 11-36.
    Old enough to know better. And old enough not to care. Best age to be.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdhfreethought
    But that is not what you asked.
    No, but I'm happy for any advice. I'd like to be as informed as I can.

    Also, most people are going from 175mm to 170 or 165mm, not larger to 180mm. I am 6' 1" so I feel best on a 175mm. But if I was doing DH, XC, or road, a 170mm crank is a bit more efficient. Think of how high you lift your foot up when you run. That eliptical motion is only about 50-60mm (in the vertical direction). Now do a high step run (knees to horizonal), it is very inefficient.
    I'm also 6'1" and a formula I found floating around these forums somewhere said I'd be best suited with 181mm on the crank. Is that not accurate? I certainly don't have to switch the size. I ride exclusively XC.

    Quote Originally Posted by dwt
    I'm running a Stylo 1.1 on my 1 X 9 and if I had to do it over again, would install a 3 speed crank, and replace the outer and inner rings for an outer and inner bash. Or remove the inner and outer rings and install a "real" chainguide. You can't put an inner bash (or ring) on the 1.1 since it has no inner bolt holes. Most of the "real" chain guide systems either come with their own bash or don't use a bash. Such as MRP or E.13.

    I don't think the 3rd eye is a "real" chainguide - it is a "chainkeeper" and designed to prevent chainsuck when shifting to the little ring on geared bikes. The other components you were looking at are "chain tensioners" and are another compromise over a chain guide system.
    Thank you for that, I'll have to rethink it now and see what my other options are.

    To avoid wasting your money, ride a week with the 32 (your current middle gear) and the first few cogs of your current cassette. (to get an idea what a 12-26 feels like).
    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    12-26 is basically road touring gearing. Your easiest gear will be a 32-26 which is pretty tall. But not as tall as what most single-speeders run, so maybe you'll be OK... too tall for me though! The singlespeed crankset will work fine with 9-speed.
    Finally - listen to the other posters: you do NOT want a 12-26 cassette. You will be making a HUGE mistake. 11-34 or 11-36 are the tickets. Better yet, build a 1 X 10 with 11-36.
    I have a 34 tooth as the middle ring now. I ride almost exclusively on 34-21 with an occasional switch up or down to 34-18 or 34-26. Never anything higher although I sometimes wish I had more gears in this small range that I use. I charted it out to give me an idea:

    My current 34x11-32
    34/11 = 3.09
    34/12 = 2.83
    34/14 = 2.43
    34/16 = 2.13
    34/18 = 1.89
    34/21 = 1.62
    34/26 = 1.31
    34/32 = 1.06

    My planned 32x12-26
    32/12 = 2.67
    32/13 = 2.46
    32/14 = 2.29
    32/15 = 2.13
    32/17 = 1.88
    32/19 = 1.68
    32/21 = 1.52
    32/23 = 1.39
    32/26 = 1.23

    If I'm doing the math right then I'll have 5 gears instead of 3 in the range that I use, with only a small loss at the top and bottom. What gear ratios will I be missing out on that would make this a mistake?

    Also, fyi, I live in S FL where we have no hills larger than a 40 feet or so, and those are few and far between. I never pedal downhill as there's no room to need to. I climb our largest hills in 34-26.

  10. #10
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    I'd put in a plug for the Paul Chainkeeper. I used to use a bash and a third eye but the Paul works much better and is lighter than the other setups.
    "You know how they make aluminum bike frames? They take steel and suck out all the soul..."

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bclagge
    I ride almost exclusively on 34-21 with an occasional switch up or down to 34-18 or 34-26.
    Take it from another FL rider... just go SS and forget it.

    1. Save more weight (no need for chain saver, rear gears or rear derailer, shifters, cables, etc...)

    2. The weight and decreased power loss will eliminate the need for the easier gears anyways.



    Having said that, I have an SS and I converting my 3x9 to 1x9 for when I ride in NC. From what I have heard, the Paul Chain Keeper is the WTG.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by pointerDixie214
    Take it from another FL rider... just go SS and forget it.
    I don't think I'm quite there yet, although it certainly seems I'm working my way there .

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