Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5

    Giant Boulder SE Front Derailleur Replacement needed

    Bottom Line Up Front:
    2010 GIANT Boulder SE
    Stock: Shimano SiS FD-M191 Front Derailleur
    FSA Alphadrive Crankset swapped into place
    Derailleur doesn't travel all the way outboard
    Need a replacement suggestion

    I purchased a bike second hand from the previous owner who had ripped the pedal out of the left side crank arm. (It is the fashion in Japan to do the flying dismount by standing on that pedal while coasting to a stop). He didn't want to go through the hassle of fixing it (yes, I know~Crazy) so I got it for cheap.

    I found a great deal on an FSA Alphadrive 44/32/22t, but the stock derailleur doesn't seem to have enough lateral travel to shift the chain all the way out to the largest ring.

    The stock chainring was 48/38/28 and the derailleur is Shimano SiS FD-M191. I adjusted according to Park Tools website here: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ur-adjustments but just can't get it to travel far enough out.

    I noticed that stretched completely out there was an internal metal burr that might be stopping it from reaching full travel so I filed that down a little but it didn't add enough movement to make any real difference.

    I think it's probably not the right shifter for the chainring and needs to be swapped. Any suggestions for something that will work with the Rapid Fire shifters would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance

    Kirk
    Last edited by kirk.dunn; 01-30-2011 at 05:05 AM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    1,287
    deore or alivio is fine. standing on 1 pedal will not strip out the threads, have a loose pedal will. also check the chainline of your crank

  3. #3
    Rub it............
    Reputation: frdfandc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,732
    If it will not reach the larger gear, then the limit screw needs to be adjusted or more cable tension needs to be added.

    Re-read the Park Tool instructions on front derailleur setup. Start from scratch.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5
    Thank you for your responses. Everything I'm getting regarding this issue is that I have the wrong crankset for the bike. It sits about 5mm further out than the original.

    Yes I did re-read the instructions and in any case had already disconnected the cable and run the H/L screws all the way out so that the derailleur's pantograph had full travel. As I was adjusting for height I also aligned parrallel using a ruler since it wasn't aligned properly as found. With completely free movement and manually manipulating it, it simply does not reach out far enough to shift the chain up to the outside chainring.

    Unless someone knows of a derailleur that will reach further out, I'll have to look for a replacement crankset and put the Alphadrive up on Ebay.

    Any suggestions regarding a correct replacement crankset or an extended reach derailleur would be welcome otherwise I'll be on the phone with Wheelworld tonight to see what they have to say. My LBSs all speak Japanese and I don't so not much help there.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,847
    Did the crankset come with a bottom bracket?

    The problem is not the derailleur or the crank. Different cranksets require different length bb's to maintain a chainline that the derailleur is designed for (47.5 - 50 mm). As you discovered, the der. will not reach out for enough if bb's spindle is too long.

    Find out what length bb your crankset requires (dealer, manufacturer's website, google...). Then measure across your bike's bb shell. It will be either 68 or 73mm.

    Example: The specs for my crankset call for a 113 bb. I turn my bike upside down and find that my bb shell is 68mm when I measure it. I get a 68-113 bb.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5
    [QUOTE=rlouder]Did the crankset come with a bottom bracket?, , , ,/QUOTE]

    No, actually it didn't. I'm quickly finding out how complicated what I thought would be relatively simple can be. I looked at FSA's website earlier today and they don't even list my crankset or really give much in the way of tech data. I did get a datasheet for the derailleur that goes into detail about recommend Shimano cranksets and bb lengths. (I tried to attach it, we'll see if it comes through) That doesn't tell me much about what the FSA requires. I'm continuing to dig, though and appreciate the responses and advice so far.
    k
    Attached Files Attached Files

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,847
    Is it a square taper bb? If so, this site shows 113 for a 50mm chainline

    http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1398

    You can use a 110 if you prefer a 48.5 chainline. If you look at the pdf you listed, you will see that your der has a range of 47.5 to 50 mm (Applicable Chain Line).

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...m+Bracket.aspx
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...m+Bracket.aspx

    Don't forget a bb tool to change it. Park Tools' version is a BBT-22. The Pedros is a little cheaper.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Bb+Socket.aspx

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by rlouder
    Is it a square taper bb? If so, this site shows 113 for a 50mm chainline

    http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1398

    You can use a 110 if you prefer a 48.5 chainline. If you look at the pdf you listed, you will see that your der has a range of 47.5 to 50 mm (Applicable Chain Line).

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...m+Bracket.aspx
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...m+Bracket.aspx

    Don't forget a bb tool to change it. Park Tools' version is a BBT-22. The Pedros is a little cheaper.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Bb+Socket.aspx
    RL~Thank you for the very detailed response! The link to the bikeisland info was the best I've been able to find as far as specifications for the crankset. I also found some numbers cast on the crankset [CK-715 BCD104/64] and was able to turn up a little info based on that but it was installation instructions not anything with specifications.
    I'm going to try the UN-26 68x110. That will put the chainline in the middle of the range. My only concern is that moving the crankarms in might cause the cranks to impact the chainstays but I don't think it will be that close.

    I'm a little gun-shy about jumping right into a spindle without being sure, but then again at only $9 it's not too big of a leap. The tool is more expensive than the spindle, but getting it on Amazon gives me the excuse to get the Third Hand tool as well to qualify for free shipping

    One other question: Since both the UN-26 and the UN-54 come in 68x110, do you know the difference between the two is? The specs don't say much and the only difference I see is price.

    (After a little MORE research, it looks like the difference is in bearing quality. Again going with Amazon it saves on shipping and makes it worth upgrading to the UN-54.)

    Thanks again

    k
    Last edited by kirk.dunn; 02-01-2011 at 01:08 AM.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5
    Just to close this out. The parts came today and I replaced the stock SR Suntour 68x122 bb with a Shimano UN-54 68x110. After adjusting the derailleur height, adjusting the H/L limits and really appreciating the utility of the Avenir Third Hand tool, my little black bike runs very well and easily shifts though all the gears. The angles are actually better with the chainring moved in somewhat. Thanks for all your help everyone. The BB is what did it for me!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •