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  1. #1
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    Fuji through axle conversion?

    OK, so I've been reading, researching, watching videos and looking through the forums. As best I can tell, you can use 142mm x 12mm through axles on a frame that was designed for 135mm x 10mm QR. I think, there is conflicting information.

    I have a 2016 Fuji Nevada 1.9 (27.5") frame that I got for dirt cheap to build up. Nothing hardcore, just a step up from the standard equipment builds.

    I keep finding pretty good deals on eBay for 142mm through axle wheelsets. Since I haven't bought a fork yet, I'm not too worried about the front wheel. The rear wheel is what I'm worried about. This frame has 135mm spacing (with the original derailleur hanger).

    Can I use a 142mm through axle in the back? It will help me determine what to look for (I would like to get the wheelset and then fork). At a minimum I know that I would need to change the hanger, which I'm not sure someone would make. Or should I just stick to a 135mm wheel?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathadder666 View Post
    OK, so I've been reading, researching, watching videos and looking through the forums. As best I can tell, you can use 142mm x 12mm through axles on a frame that was designed for 135mm x 10mm QR. I think, there is conflicting information.

    I have a 2016 Fuji Nevada 1.9 (27.5") frame that I got for dirt cheap to build up. Nothing hardcore, just a step up from the standard equipment builds.

    I keep finding pretty good deals on eBay for 142mm through axle wheelsets. Since I haven't bought a fork yet, I'm not too worried about the front wheel. The rear wheel is what I'm worried about. This frame has 135mm spacing (with the original derailleur hanger).

    Can I use a 142mm through axle in the back? It will help me determine what to look for (I would like to get the wheelset and then fork). At a minimum I know that I would need to change the hanger, which I'm not sure someone would make. Or should I just stick to a 135mm wheel?
    No. You cannot use a thru axle on your frame. You cannot use a thru axle wheelset on your frame.

    What you CAN use are 5mm quick release wheels, bolt-on wheels, and a small subset of wheel attachments with various names, but are basically fatter quick releases (9mm front, 10mm rear). Most common of these are DT Swiss RWS thru-bolts, I think. But requires hubs specifically compatible with these. They were basically introduced as something of an intermediate step between 5mm quick releases and legit thru axles. The heavy adoption of thru axles has mostly made them obsolete.

  3. #3
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    first, no. you have to have dropouts that will fit a thru axle, which would mean chopping yours off and getting new ones welded on. this is not worth the trouble at all.

    thru axles are nice, but they are more advantageous on a bike with rear suspension. looks for a wheel with a beefy axle and a tough QR and you will not notice the difference. I rode with Stan's hubs (not durable) and a Hadley hub with a 135-10 thru-bolt type axle and it was pretty nice.
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    OK, good to know. I guess I'll stick to 135mm wheels then. Maybe I can get lucky and get the 10mm QR to help with the stiffness. This is my first real MTB build (I used to be a heavy BMX'er - so I've built those bikes several times over) and just scored a good deal on a good starter frame.

    Thanks for the help. To eBay!

  5. #5
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    My wife's bike uses the DT Swiss thru bolts and they are kind of cool, but yes it's proprietary to the hub. I have had really good luck with the Halo Hex Key Skewers over the years. I would happily mis-match my wheels if it opens the option to run a thru-axle on the fork, even if I had QR on the rear.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOJO K View Post
    My wife's bike uses the DT Swiss thru bolts and they are kind of cool, but yes it's proprietary to the hub.
    Not entirely. I had a Specialized in 2003 that came with a 9mm Specialized-branded fat QR (Stout, IIRC) that I eventually replaced with a DT RWS because the Specialized version was trash. My wife's older Santa Cruz has DT RWS front and rear, with I9 hubs. IIRC, most hubs with replaceable end caps can use these types of skewers, so long as the end caps are available. DT RWS thru-axles are nice, too, but they're just another thru axle that's not that much different from the others.

    To OP, you can't just add the fatter skewer to an existing QR hub. It does have to be a hub compatible with it. Frankly, not worth it unless you're already planning to install a fairly nice wheelset. For a hardtail, the rear isn't really worth it. The front might be, but only if the fork is already halfway decent (it'll stiffen the wheel/fork interface, but if the rest of the fork is still flexy, that won't make much difference). I'd put this looooooowwwwww on the upgrade priority list.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    Not entirely.
    I'll defer to this...At the time , '07 maybe, I had looked into options for converting and couldn't make it work.
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  8. #8
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    Some hub mfrs adopted compatibility for these but others didn't. They went straight from 5mm qr to thru axles. That's why I call them transitional between qr and thru axle adoption.

    They were a fairly inexpensive way for some manufacturers to demonstrate that extra stiffness WAS useful for even xc bikes (and especially fs bikes) without having to go all in on thru axles for lightweight bikes early on. For hub manufacturers using swappable end caps to go between qr and existing thru axle standards, introducing an end cap for 9x100 and 10x135 was pretty easy.
    Quote Originally Posted by MOJO K View Post
    I'll defer to this...At the time , '07 maybe, I had looked into options for converting and couldn't make it work.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    To OP, you can't just add the fatter skewer to an existing QR hub. It does have to be a hub compatible with it. Frankly, not worth it unless you're already planning to install a fairly nice wheelset...
    That was part of the conundrum that I was having. I was finding people selling their 27.5" wheelsets on eBay for good prices, just turns out most were 142mm through axle hubs. Finding good 27.5" QR wheels was a bit trying, so far most are coming up through axle.

    And so everyone knows, I don't have any wheels for my 27.5" frame, it's a build up from scratch. I have only the frame at this point (with the original derailleur hanger) So I was looking to either get the through axle wheels now, and either use them on my frame (which doesn't seem possible) or convert the through axle to a 135mm QR to use on this frame now and as through axles on my next frame (I'm short, I'll likely stick to 27.5" and not go up to 29).

    I would like to get a decent setup going. Not looking at $500+ per wheel (unless I score them for cheap on eBay), but not looking for $50 jobs either.

    I've been looking, there appears to be conversions out there for through axle to QR, but the width of the frame is what I'm concerned about. I measured and the frame is definitely 135mm for the rear. The front I'm not concerned about as much since I still haven't gotten a fork. I'm worried about the rear wheel since I can bend or modify the frame to fit the wheel. I need the wheel to fit the frame.

    Thanks everyone for the help. Appreciate it.

  10. #10
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    some hubs can be 135 or 142, depending on the axle parts you put on it. lots of hubs are convertible, you just have to find wheels that have them. the problem is that most new budget-oriented wheels are going to come with mystery generic hubs and no information about converting them anywhere. you're going to need to build your own wheels from scratch or find a budget option with questionable quality components.

    you won't find many good complete wheelsets like that because 142 axles had recently been accepted as "standard" around the time that 27.5" wheels were taking over. a 27.5" frame with 135mm rear spacing is a kind of missing link in the evolution of mountain bikes. now you know why you were able to buy it so cheap!

    contact bikehubstore.com and ask them what they can build you. cheap and reliable hubs can be found there.
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  11. #11
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    It's worth noting that 142 and 135 are basically the same width. 142 is a thru axle standard, and 135 is the QR version of that width. As mack says, some hubs can be converted between the two standards (stuff with replaceable end caps like Hope, i9, and a number of others). Other hubs can be converted by changing out the entire axle assembly (less common), and others cannot be converted at all (probably the bulk of what you will find).

    Frankly, for this bike, don't even think about being able to convert the wheels for use on any other frame. Buy some wheels that will fit what you have now and leave it at that. The reason being, that the 135/142 hub standard is old news, and you'll be really hard pressed to find a new frame available that will be compatible. New stuff is almost invariably Boost. Which is 141mm for QR (new, not many of these), and 148 for thru axles. There are conversion kits where you can convert a 142mm hub to fit into a 148mm frame, but I wouldn't bother with these unless you had a REALLY NICE top end hub set.

  12. #12
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    I've swapped the QR fronts on my road bikes and a QR rear on a FS over using sleeves from this guy and DT throughbolt axles. It's not life changing, but noticable.

    https://www.ebay.com/str/mtbtools

    This is assuming you end up buying a through axle wheelset, which you could then use on a newer frame down the line.

  13. #13
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    Maybe I'll just convert this bike into my gravel/commuter bike (I can give my Marin Fairfax to my son, who's just about my height now). Get a decent rigid carbon fork for it and just continue to use my old Specialized Rockhopper 26" on the trails for now (which I've beat to hell already, but it still rolls). Seems it would be easier to do in the end and look for a better frame or full MTB next year or two.

    Decisions, decisions.

  14. #14
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    non-boost hubs are still plentiful and easy to find. 135 and 142mm hubs are going to stick around for a long time. finding 27.5 wheels with that older hub spacing standard is the challenge.
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    A quick glance at the googler shows these...

    https://www.randombikeparts.com/coll...et-disc-qr-new



    Edit...random bike parts is a great source for parts going back a generation or two. I usually use worldwide as my mail order company, but if I need something for an older bike, random has been solid.
    Last edited by MOJO K; 4 Days Ago at 12:59 PM.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathadder666 View Post
    Maybe I'll just convert this bike into my gravel/commuter bike (I can give my Marin Fairfax to my son, who's just about my height now). Get a decent rigid carbon fork for it and just continue to use my old Specialized Rockhopper 26" on the trails for now (which I've beat to hell already, but it still rolls). Seems it would be easier to do in the end and look for a better frame or full MTB next year or two.

    Decisions, decisions.
    Stick some used 29er wheels with @40mm tires on them in there....

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOJO K View Post
    A quick glance at the googler shows these...

    https://www.randombikeparts.com/coll...et-disc-qr-new



    Edit...random bike parts is a great source for parts going back a generation or two. I usually use worldwide as my mail order company, but if I need something for an older bike, random has been solid.
    Man, I love this forum. So much good stuff and new sites I didn't know existed. Thanks!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harryman View Post
    Stick some used 29er wheels with @40mm tires on them in there....
    Would 29er/700c wheels work on a 27.5" frame though? My Marin FF is 700c, I guess I could always try.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathadder666 View Post
    Would 29er/700c wheels work on a 27.5" frame though? My Marin FF is 700c, I guess I could always try.
    I use them on an old 26" hardtail frame with a rigid fork as a commuter, so they do. Tire size is limited by what you can squeeze in, but I can fit mid 30's. It affects the trail, so it's not like it's the best riding bike ever, but it's fine for commuting and general rambling around.

    26" Pisgah to 700c gravel bike

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathadder666 View Post
    Would 29er/700c wheels work on a 27.5" frame though? My Marin FF is 700c, I guess I could always try.
    About 5 years ago I had a disc tab added to my old 1997 26'er so I could run 29'er wheels on it as a gravel grinder. 700x32 cyclecross tires fit great. 35mm tires are tight, and 38mm tires won't fit. I'd think you could get something a bit larger in a frame built for 27.5 wheels and tires.

    Fuji through axle conversion?-14063921_10210380562819370_6784271790766458212_n.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by sgltrak View Post
    About 5 years ago I had a disc tab added to my old 1997 26'er so I could run 29'er wheels on it as a gravel grinder. 700x32 cyclecross tires fit great. 35mm tires are tight, and 38mm tires won't fit. I'd think you could get something a bit larger in a frame built for 27.5 wheels and tires.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend. Meaning take my 700c wheel from my Marin and check clearance and all that with the frame. I'm running 700x28c tires on it now, so it fits, I'll consider the change to a gravel/commuter instead of a full on trail.

    Luckily the frame has disc brakes and since I've yet to get a fork, I can be sure to get one with disc brakes too. Same for the wheels, again, I don't have them yet, so I can make sure to get hubs that have it.

    I'm still worried that getting a 27.5" fork will have some clearance issues, but I guess a rigid fork is cheaper than a suspension fork, so I won't be out much if I miss. Plus, I might get the fork first now instead of the wheelset, so I can check clearance with the 700c wheel in the front like I plan to do with the frame. then I know whether to get 27.5" or 29er/700c (they are the same, right?) wheelset with QR.

    Thanks for all the input.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathadder666 View Post
    Nice. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend. Meaning take my 700c wheel from my Marin and check clearance and all that with the frame. I'm running 700x28c tires on it now, so it fits, I'll consider the change to a gravel/commuter instead of a full on trail.

    Luckily the frame has disc brakes and since I've yet to get a fork, I can be sure to get one with disc brakes too. Same for the wheels, again, I don't have them yet, so I can make sure to get hubs that have it.

    I'm still worried that getting a 27.5" fork will have some clearance issues, but I guess a rigid fork is cheaper than a suspension fork, so I won't be out much if I miss. Plus, I might get the fork first now instead of the wheelset, so I can check clearance with the 700c wheel in the front like I plan to do with the frame. then I know whether to get 27.5" or 29er/700c (they are the same, right?) wheelset with QR.

    Thanks for all the input.
    Your frame will be your the source of your clearance issues before a fork, depending on what your budget is. Figure out @ what AC length you need for that frame and use that as a rough guide. 700c and 29er are the exact same diameters.

    Something like this maybe?

    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...RoCnXoQAvD_BwE

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathadder666 View Post
    Nice. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend. Meaning take my 700c wheel from my Marin and check clearance and all that with the frame. I'm running 700x28c tires on it now, so it fits, I'll consider the change to a gravel/commuter instead of a full on trail.

    Luckily the frame has disc brakes and since I've yet to get a fork, I can be sure to get one with disc brakes too. Same for the wheels, again, I don't have them yet, so I can make sure to get hubs that have it.

    I'm still worried that getting a 27.5" fork will have some clearance issues, but I guess a rigid fork is cheaper than a suspension fork, so I won't be out much if I miss. Plus, I might get the fork first now instead of the wheelset, so I can check clearance with the 700c wheel in the front like I plan to do with the frame. then I know whether to get 27.5" or 29er/700c (they are the same, right?) wheelset with QR.

    Thanks for all the input.
    Like Harryman said, your frame clearance is going to be more limiting than the fork.

    I picked up a used Surly Ogre 29'er fork that I swap with the Fox suspension fork. The axle-to-crown measurement of the 29'er Ogre fork is about the same as the 26'er Fox, but gives a ton of front clearance. This photo shows the massive clearance of the 700x32 tires on the 29'er rims in the Ogre fork:

    Fuji through axle conversion?-1111171048.jpg

  24. #24
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    I converted my QR bike to 9x100mm front and 10x135mm rear but you need wheels that use end caps for that conversion. I have a Hope 29er wheelset and I purchased the 9 and 10mm end caps to let me run the DT Swiss "thru bolts" on my frame and fork. I'm sure there are other companies out there who have similar setups to allow you to convert your hubs.

    DTS Swiss thru-bolt: https://www.jensonusa.com/DT-Swiss-R...-Quick-Release

    My Hope end caps:
    https://www.jensonusa.com/Hope-Pro-2...-Rear-Hub-Caps
    https://www.jensonusa.com/Hope-Pro-2...Conversion-Kit

    When I bought my Hope Pro 4 Enduro wheelset, they came with 15x100, 12x142, and QR end caps. It's nice of them to give me all of these end caps! I ended up taking off the wheelset from my Fathom and installing them on my Octane One and swapped the end caps out for 15mm and 12x142mm.
    Trek Émonda SL6 | Giant Fathom 29 |
    Octane One Prone 29

  25. #25
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    Hadley makes nice 9 and 10mm thru-bolt axles as well. before I went to 15mm front and 12mm rear, I had Stan's hubs with Hadley bolts in them.
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    Hadley makes nice 9 and 10mm thru-bolt axles as well. before I went to 15mm front and 12mm rear, I had Stan's hubs with Hadley bolts in them.
    So wait, I can get through axle on the frame? It seems like all I need is to find hubs that allow the end caps? Is there still the problem of the frame not taking 10mm through axles?

    Man, this confusing as hell.

  27. #27
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    Sort of like a through axle, but it fits your QR dropouts and not having the full benefits

    Quick-release dropouts are a 10mm slot in the frame. Quick-release hubs have a 10mm nub on each end that fits this slot. But there are also 135mm wide hubs that accept a 10mm bolt/skewer though the middle. That is the alternative they are mentioning.

    If a similar 10mm bolt went through a hole in the frame instead of a slot and threaded into a hole in the frame on one end, we would call it a thru-axle instead. There is an older 135x10mm thu-axle standard so you may see hubs labeled this way, and those hubs will also work in a 135mm quick release frame with a 10mm thru-bolt

    Having said that, I'm not sure it's worth the expense. I had one a 10mm thru-bolt rear wheel for a while. On my full-suspension frame that had an overly flexy rear triangle it made a small, small difference. On my steel hardtail frame it made no noticeable difference.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathadder666 View Post

    Man, this confusing as hell.
    Yeah, it is confusing at times. I was a bit confused myself until I started to research and learn a few things.

    Here is an older post that I used to understand the different types of QR, bolts, axles, etc.

    This post was when 12x142mm hub spacing was "all the rage" in 2014:
    Axle standards explained
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