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Thread: Freehub body

  1. #1
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    Freehub body

    Earlier I took off my rear cassette to try and find a make/model of the freehub body by I could not see any writing on it?!!


    I have these pictures, can you tell from these snaps? is there a way of identifying the replacement that is needed?


    Also I noticed that the grooves/teeth on the freehub body have been worn down (IMG_6616 & 6620) so that they dont fit 'snug' with the corresponding ones on the cassette... Maybe this is why my cassette is wobbling against the freehub body??

    In addition the first few images show almost notched taken out of the freehub body, which im assuming is contributing to the wobble factor.




    any help would be much appreciated!!

    cheers
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Freehub body-img_6603.jpg  

    Freehub body-img_6605.jpg  

    Freehub body-img_6606.jpg  

    Freehub body-img_6616.jpg  

    Freehub body-img_6620.jpg  


  2. #2
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    You need to determine the make and model of the rear hub to identify the freehub.

  3. #3
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    so is that what 'hope hoops' is referring to in this pic?... so i need to look for a 'hope hoops free hub body' ?


    so judging from this website, its a 'Hope Pro 2 Freehub Body' ?

    hope hoops freehub body | Buy Now at ChainReactionCycles.com

    cheers
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Freehub body-img_6601.jpg  

    Freehub body-img_6600.jpg  


  4. #4
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    Email them and ask:
    MTB Wheels -
    Wheels - Hope Wheels
    You should get a steel freehub if possible so that the cogs don't cut into it.
    You can just take a fine file to those marks to take the sharp edge off. They won't hurt otherwise.

    Do you mean the cassette isn't tightly clamped when tightened or the whole freehub is wobbling?

  5. #5
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    Yeah, as you can see in the pictures of the cassette, there is a noticeable gap between the grooves of the freehub body and that of the cassette- which results in the wobble. The freehub itself hardly 'wobbles' at all against the rest of the hub. Thats why I thought that wear on the freehub body has caused the wobble, but i dont know what caused the weat and whether the cassette or freehub body needs replacing... or am I not doing something on assembly?!

  6. #6
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    That looseness on the splines shouldn't be an issue. The torque on the cogs is one direction only so the cog will be forced against the front and stay there. The cassette lock ring should be tight and hold the cogs firmly.
    Marking of an aluminum freehub is a fact of life. Search on aluminum freehub.

    Which Shimano cassette for aluminum freehub?
    Is my freehub toast? Hope Pro II

  7. #7
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    thanks for all the help ! learning alot here.

    So in terms of identifying the freehub body, best thing to do is contact hope ? and enquire to what FHB fits onto the 'hope hoops' hub?

    cheers

  8. #8
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    The gap between the freehub and cassette is typical. That's how the interface was designed and spec'd by Shimano. You can buy a new freehub, but it will be the same. The markings by the rings are unfortunate but a fact if life with aluminum freehubs. It doesn't harm anything other than occasionally making it difficult to remove the cassette. If your wheels are "Hope Hoops" then you are most likely correct in guessing they are Hope hubs.

    I'd suggest thoroughly cleaning/deburring the splines on your hub and cassette. Reassemble and check how much wobble is remaining. It will never be perfect due to the spline design, but there shouldn't be enough wobble to cause mis-shifts.

  9. #9
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    thank you for the thorough reply, very helpful... ill make sure to give it a good clean and reassemble.

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