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  1. #1
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    Frame flex and/or Derailleur problem

    Hi guys i hope someone can share wisdom in relation to my problem.

    I have recently bought an Orbea Occam H50 (3X9 speed). I really loved the bike, especially since this is my first full suspension bike. Unfortunately during my first rides i noticed that when i am at the large chaining and small sprocket (ie highest, most heavy) gear and i push really hard the pedals, the drivetrain makes a (really loud) rubbing noise. I can see that the chain is rubbing to the outside end of the front derailleur.

    I have taken the bike back to the shop and at fist they suggested the FD needs adjustment (what they did and after that the chain rubbed at the lowest gear) and after several discussions with them and after trying changing the crankest they attributed the noise to frame flex and rendered the issue as normal and refused to do anything.

    I am convinced this is not normal as the noise is not just the simple rubbing noise but is rather loud.

    Anw i tried adjusting the derailleur myself. I have tried resetting the angle, the height and the barrel adjustment numerous times. By doing this i noticed the following. When i am at the biggest sprocket and i shift from the smallest chain ring to the middle chain ring the chain rubs on the inside of the derailleur (and it does for the top half of the rear gears). I adjust the barrel adjustor to eliminate the issue. Then when i shift to the largest chain ring and then the chain rubs for the bottom half of the rear gear. So it is as if i can either tune it to be rubb-free at either the middle or large chain ring (irrespective of frame flex issue). Somehow it seems that when switching from middle to large chain ring the shifter is not pulling enough cable to move the cage out enough.

    I believe limit screws are set correctly as i have followed a number of tutorials

    Shifters are Alivio shifter, derailleur is Deore (10 speed rated)

    I appreciate your help

  2. #2
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    It sounds like cross chaining issues if I'm reading this right. When in the largest chainring in the front you want to keep it in the 3-4 smallest gears in the back to avoid rubbing on the front derailleur. Same with the middle and small chainring in the front. You want to have the chain straight with no aggressive angle to avoid noises.

    My solution is to go to a 1x setup and you won't have any rubbing on your front derailleur because, well you won't be using a front derailleur.


    Maybe take a video with sound so we can see specifically what you are talking about.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by droanx View Post
    It sounds like cross chaining issues if I'm reading this right. When in the largest chainring in the front you want to keep it in the 3-4 smallest gears in the back to avoid rubbing on the front derailleur. Same with the middle and small chainring in the front. You want to have the chain straight with no aggressive angle to avoid noises.

    My solution is to go to a 1x setup and you won't have any rubbing on your front derailleur because, well you won't be using a front derailleur.


    Maybe take a video with sound so we can see specifically what you are talking about.
    it cant be a crosschaining issue as the chain rubs when im in the largest chainring in the front te chain start rubbing while i am entering the smaller gears at the back. If i adjust for this with the barrel adjustment then it starts rubbing when i am in the middle chain ring and the larger gears at the back.

    Im not sure i want to go singlespeed just yet.

  4. #4
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    Sounds like a H/L adjustment then. If the shop couldn't fix it, then maybe the angle is off or it's clamped on too high or low on the seat tube.

  5. #5
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    Am almost certain that i did everything by the book

  6. #6
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    Last thing I can think of. Is it rubbing the inside or outside of the FD? If rubbing the inside you may need a spacer of some sort for the cassette.

  7. #7
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    If i am in the large chainring small rear gear it rubs on the outside. If iam in the middle chainring larger rear gears it rubs on the inside

  8. #8
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    That is weird. Since it's 9 speed, go buy a Gripshift shifter for 9sp and you'll be able to trim it so it doesn't do that.

    Other than having someone else look at it that's all I got, sorry wasn't much help :/

  9. #9
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    don't play with the cables...

    shift into the "large up front and small in back" adjust the the stop screw till it just misses then go a 1/8-1/4 turn more.....(ya do have to make sure there is enough slack in the cable for these adjustments) do the same with the chain on the smallest front and largest rear.. again adjust till it's just off then give a 1/8 - 1/4 turn more away.... go test ride... now adjust the cables with the barrel adj to shift properly.. should be fine. you might have to loosen or tighten the cable at the derailleur....

    when in the largest gear up front you may get some minor rub when up on the larger 2 or 3 gears in the back and same in reverse being in small - small set up.. that's cross chaining and there isn't much you can do about it... it's actually good as it's telling you you are crossing and should probably shift


    now go find another shop too...
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  10. #10
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    Check the location of the clamp on the derailer. Manufactures relocated the clamp down about 2 inches to cope with the more flexible frames without lugs. If for some reason you have the high clamp you can reduce flex by buying a more modern one. There is actually not much flex in the seat tube relative to the crank. I built a 39 42 crank on a 130mm bolt circle and found only .5mm flex from the left pedal and 1.0mm flex from the right pedal. Much more than this and I expect something is loose in the crank either play in the bottom bracket or perhaps a loose chainring bolt. I also built a 45 50 combination on a 110mm bolt circle and the 45 rubbed both sides of the derailer on a hard pull. So you could use smaller chainrings I think modern bicycles are way over geared anyway.
    "Dish is illogical." Spoke of Vulcan.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by zerodish View Post
    Check the location of the clamp on the derailer. Manufactures relocated the clamp down about 2 inches to cope with the more flexible frames without lugs. If for some reason you have the high clamp you can reduce flex by buying a more modern one. There is actually not much flex in the seat tube relative to the crank. I built a 39 42 crank on a 130mm bolt circle and found only .5mm flex from the left pedal and 1.0mm flex from the right pedal. Much more than this and I expect something is loose in the crank either play in the bottom bracket or perhaps a loose chainring bolt. I also built a 45 50 combination on a 110mm bolt circle and the 45 rubbed both sides of the derailer on a hard pull. So you could use smaller chainrings I think modern bicycles are way over geared anyway.
    What are all those numbers? im kinda lost here

    As for the limit screws the low limit is adjusted properly. The deraileur does not move out enough to be limited by the high limit

  12. #12
    Trail Tire TV on blogger
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    Quote Originally Posted by hapipaz View Post
    What are all those numbers? im kinda lost here

    As for the limit screws the low limit is adjusted properly. The deraileur does not move out enough to be limited by the high limit
    well then something is definitely off there.. both limit screws should be stopping the outward/inward movement, not the cable...

    again.. adjust the 2 limit screws so they are just off rubbing when in the extreme outer or inner gears, then adjust the cable to make it shift smoothly...
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

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