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  1. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4Crawler View Post
    Do you have the model number of the shifters you used (not sure if you already had the SL-BS79 shifters or were just looking at them) and are you running the shifters in index or friction mode? I am currently trying to set up a drive train for a CX bike I am building and would love to run an 11-36 rear cassette with the same RD you are running and put the bar end shifters on some RetroShift brake levers along with a road-triple FD and 22-32-44 9-speed front crank. Also, do the front and rear shifters move the same direction to shift to a higher or lower gear? I ran into opposite shifting with the barcons on my road bike (front went full down for lowest chainring, rear went full up for largest cog). Ended up having to swap in a rapid-rise RD to reverse the shifter direction.

    Thanks.
    Yeh I'm using the SL-BS79s and they only work in index mode, they removed the friction mode and I didn't see that when I bought them but they seem built very well so I'm not expecting them to break on my tour. The 78s I believe still have an index mode.

    I've never used bar end shifters before but the front derailleur shifts to the big ring when it is pulled up (which I'm not liking at the moment because I bump it sometimes and the chain doesn't sit well) and on the 79's there's not index for 2 out of 3 gears, just the middle gear. The rear shifts to the small ring when pushed down so it sounds exactly what issue you ran into before - but I'm not sure if there's a rapid-rise in the shadow model as the standard XT won't go up to 36 teeth.

    Shifting works great though, I have no troubles and I'm sure I'll be out of the big ring up front when I started loading my bike up for my tour :P

  2. #327
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    Thanks for the clarification and pointer on the BS78s, scored a set of used 78's off of eBay. Having the friction mode would be a nice fall back. With the RetroShift setup, having the opposite shifting might not be a big deal:



    But I'll have to think about that and if needed, use a Rapid Rise RD. Actually the RR is nice because you get better shifting into larger cogs.

    I found on my road bike that I could not get used to the opposite shifters..When I would come up to a steep climb, I would push the front shifter down to get the smallest chain ring and then I kept pushing down the rear shifter and that put it into the smallest cog instead of the biggest one. Then I needed to try and shift back to the large cog while in the middle of the climbl. That and the fact that I found I hit the rear shifter when it was sticking out (in the big cog) with my knee if I stood up to climb a steeper pitch on the hill. Now with the RR rear, both shifters are down (and out of the way) when climbing.

    But since I am planning to put the shifters on the brake levers, no chance of hitting them with the keens any more. Just need to figure out if having both levers facing inward for say lowest gear or having both levers facing to the right for lowest gear is better. I'm leaning towards having the opposite throw since that way pushing say with the thumb on both hands shifts to say a higher gear and pushing with a finger goes to a lower gear. That is how I have my touring bike set up with friction mode bar-top thumb shifters and it seems quite natural. I think for that I'll need the Rapid Rise RD.
    Last edited by 4Crawler; 02-18-2012 at 03:35 PM.

  3. #328
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    I've gone through a lot of this thread and have gotten confused by all the iterations that have been suggested. Mine is (I think) simple:

    Bike is 100% 9-speed right now. I want a new crankset: I can get a better deal on a 3x10 crankset than on the same model's 3x9 version. Changing nothing, can I expect this to work? Thanks for anyone who knows this answer, and apologies if I missed this somewhere in the 14 pages of the thread.

  4. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTB View Post
    I've gone through a lot of this thread and have gotten confused by all the iterations that have been suggested. Mine is (I think) simple:

    Bike is 100% 9-speed right now. I want a new crankset: I can get a better deal on a 3x10 crankset than on the same model's 3x9 version. Changing nothing, can I expect this to work? Thanks for anyone who knows this answer, and apologies if I missed this somewhere in the 14 pages of the thread.
    Here's my understanding, since I asked almost the same question but with a double crank not a triple crank. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

    The new 10 speed uses a closer chainring spacing up front, so you'll never get perfect alignment using 9-speed derail and shifter with 10-speed crank. A double ring setup can get around this through use of the limiter screws, since there's only two gear positions.

    I don't quite understand what Shimano changed, but you'll need to get either a new front derail or a new front shifter, hopefully someone else can chime in on this. You may also need a new narrower 10 speed, too.

  5. #330
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    Thanks very much. I'll avoid the 10-speed cranks now that I know this.

  6. #331
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    I just had this same thing happen to me a few weeks ago. Only it was a nine speed crankset and my bike was 100% 7speed. I had my lbs install it and it works great. They took out a few chain links but i was even able to use my 7speed chain.

  7. #332
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    I had some guys on here tell me the 9 speed raceface crank i ordered would not work with my bike unless i did a full blown ninespeed conversion. Well they said it wouldent line up, it would shift wrong or slower and i would need a new chain. So i took my bike and the new crankset into the professionals, they did some measurements and told me to pick it up tommarow. Took it for a test ride around the parking lot and it was better than it was before. Not to mention a lot lighter. Youll be alright.

  8. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by creyc View Post
    The new 10 speed uses a closer chainring spacing up front, so you'll never get perfect alignment using 9-speed derail and shifter with 10-speed crank. A double ring setup can get around this through use of the limiter screws, since there's only two gear positions.
    So the index should be different? Do you have that on text/numbers somewhere?
    So far my 9spd trigger and FD has been running fine on 10spd crank.

  9. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by NielsJ View Post
    So the index should be different? Do you have that on text/numbers somewhere?
    So far my 9spd trigger and FD has been running fine on 10spd crank.

    Well that's how it sounds, according to this post on the first page:


    Quote Originally Posted by ljsmith View Post
    From what I understand the front 10 speed shifter is identical to the 9 speed shifter. The difference is in the geometry of the front derailleur. The 10 speed front derailleur moves slightly less per shift due to the 10 speed crankset using thinner rings with closer spacing. You can interchange the front derailleurs, but they will be very difficult to adjust. A 9 speed front derailleur on a 10 speed crankset will slightly overshift each ring. A 10 speed front derailleur on a 9 speed crankset will slightly undershift each ring. What is interesting is that the right 10 speed shifter body looks totally different than the left. It is huge, and the lever looks totally different than the left.

    The Bottom line: match the derailleur to the crankset. If it is a 9 speed crankset, use a 9 speed front derailleur. If it is a 10 speed crankset use a 10 speed front derailleur.

    It's interesting your 9 speed shifter and derailleur are working alright however, and just to confirm it's a triple ring correct?

  10. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by creyc View Post
    It's interesting your 9 speed shifter and derailleur are working alright however, and just to confirm it's a triple ring correct?
    Nope. I have a 2x10 X9 crank and a 3x9 Deore FD and trigger. Limit screws adjusted accordingly.

    I do have an X9 2x10 FD ready for installment, but will it require a 10spd trigger as well? My guess is NO. At least, that's how it's gonna be to begin with.

    Is the amount of cable being pulled for 9 vs 10 speed different for the FD triggers, or is the parallelogram different for the front derailleurs? (is it is for the RD's)

  11. #336
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    Well that explains it, it's a double ring setup.

    This being the exception I mentioned, by using the limiter screws to manually prevent the FD from "overshooting" the narrower 10-speed chainring spacing, where the index position would normally take it.

    This works on a double ring setup, where there's only two positions to worry about. Your cable tension sets the big gear position correctly, and the limit screw sets the small gear position. But with a third gear between those two, now you can really only get 2 of the 3 dialed in, if that.

    Supposedly from multiple posts in this thread, 9 speed and 10 speed front shifters are the SAME, and you only need to match your front derail to your crank.

    Good luck, and if anyone knows this to be incorrect, please say so,

  12. #337
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    Question on the 10 speed Shimano chains. Is there much of a difference from say the HG-54 to the SLX HG-74 to the XTR HG-94 to the XTR M980 chains? Seems to be about a 2X range in price and about 17 grams in weight across the range. Is there any difference in shifting between those chains and how about life time, like to the more expensive ones last a longer or shorter time than the lower cost ones?

  13. #338
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    I apologize if this question has been covered. I tried to skim this thread to find an answer but was unsuccessful.

    I need to find a direct mount front derailleur for a bike with a full XT 9 speed drive train. I'm using only the 22/32T rings. The bike is a Banshee Paradox with short chain stays and the tail of my XT 771 derailleur is perilously close to the tire. The 10 speed two ring derailleurs like the XT FD-M786-D have much shorter cages.

    The question therefore is: Can I succesfully use the 10 speed front derailleur with my 9 speed cranks, chain and shifter? Maybe someone has had experience with this combination.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  14. #339
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    Last edited by Carnazachile; 02-28-2012 at 05:12 PM.

  15. #340
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    Good to know I'm not the only one with 2/10 3/9 compatibility issues


    I have a 3/9 setup in my enduro, but I'm thinking to buy a 2/10 set of shifters (xx) and a 10sp RD (x0). I'll also buy the 10sp cassette and chain....

    But I have doubts on the crankset.... I have a 3 ring setup (22/32/44) but I want to get rid of the 44t ring and put a bash instead, and use a 36-38 middle ring.

    Can I use the 2/10 front shifter with my 2 ring setup??
    Will I have to change the FD from a 9sp to a 10sp??
    Or I'll have to change the cranks and FD??

    Thanks.....

    PS: I know the 3 rings cranks use a 104 bolt pattern and the 2/10 ones seems to use a different one.... Is possible to find bash guards with the 2/10 bolt pattern ??

  16. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejayt View Post
    Yeh I'm using the SL-BS79s and they only work in index mode, they removed the friction mode and I didn't see that when I bought them but they seem built very well so I'm not expecting them to break on my tour. The 78s I believe still have an index mode.
    I can confirm that the SL-BS78s have both friction and index mode, at least on the rear shifter. Front is friction only. Picked up a used set off of eBay, just waiting on the RetroShift brake levers to mount them on. Oh and a handlebar to put the levers on and the rest of the bike to put the handlebar on

    Did get the R/S brake levers today and the SL-BS78s fit on them perfectly, just had to order one extra thin washer to replace the fat one on the rear shifter.
    Last edited by 4Crawler; 02-29-2012 at 09:37 PM.

  17. #342
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    OK so just to be 100% clear on this:

    Point 3.

    I cannot fit a 10 speed SLX rear derailleur on a 9 speed cassette with 9 speed XT shifters?

  18. #343
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    Can a slx dyna sys 36-22 be used with 10 speed cassette?

    currently running xo ten speed shifter and derailleur, x9 ten speed front xtr 40-26 175 crankset and shimano 10 speed cassette.
    Sorry
    Last edited by tic tac; 03-07-2012 at 02:59 AM.
    All work and no play makes "and all no work play"

  19. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdb10810 View Post
    I cannot fit a 10 speed SLX rear derailleur on a 9 speed cassette with 9 speed XT shifters.
    Correct. Definitely will not work without divine intervention.

  20. #345
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    Hi Guys, I am new in this thread. Would like ask some questions. Apologies if this has been answered before. Thanks is advance.

    My current bike set up

    Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore RD-M592, 27 Speed

    Front Derailleur: Shimano Alivio FD-M430, 34.9mm

    Shifters: Shimano Alivio SL-M430, R-fire plus 2

    Crankset: Shimano FC-M430-8, silver, 44Ax32x22 T

    Will it work if i were to replace it with

    10 speed Deore Shifter
    10 speed FD
    10 speed crankset

    Please advice. Thanks Guys

  21. #346
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    ^ This will not work.

    To repeat (again) Shimano 9 and 10 speed MTB rear derailleurs and shifters cannot be mixed in any combination!!!

    Both must be either 9 speed, or 10 speed, with the matching cassette and chain. 10 speed Shimano MTB stuff is generally compatible only with itself, although IIRC some have said that SRAM pre-10 speed derailleurs and shifters have compatible cable travel, ie, you can (in theory) use a 9 speed SRAM rear mech in a 10 speed drivetrain with Shimano 10 speed shifters, or a Shimano 10 speed mech in a 9 speed drivetrain with SRAM 9 speed shifters (though not their Shimano compatible Gripshifts).

    If you want to switch to 10 speed you will need (at least) a 10 speed rear shifter, rear derailleur, cassette and chain. Things might work better if you have matching 10 speed chainrings (or crankset), plus front derailleur, but it's quite possible the 9 speed parts will work okay.

    NB: Shimano 10 speed road rear shifters (i.e., barcons) will work when used with a Shimano 9 speed MTB rear mech as most Shimano rear derailleurs (other than 10 speed MTB and pre-1997 Dura-Ace) have compatible cable travel.

    It would be more sensible if people asking questions state what shifters, front and rear derailleurs, crankset, chain and cassette they have at present and what they are hoping to achieve by changing things rather than just asking, "Will combination x work?"

  22. #347
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    What's wrong?

    I'm building a 2008 Enduro with all new 10 speed drivetrain, except the crankset which is a Truvativ Hussfelt 24/36/bash. My shifters, rear der, cassette are SLX and I have a new XT chain, all 10 speed. FD is a Deore LX. Chain won't shift from granny to middle. What's wrong with my setup?

    Thanks.

  23. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69tr6r View Post
    I'm building a 2008 Enduro with all new 10 speed drivetrain, except the crankset which is a Truvativ Hussfelt 24/36/bash. My shifters, rear der, cassette are SLX and I have a new XT chain, all 10 speed. FD is a Deore LX. Chain won't shift from granny to middle. What's wrong with my setup?

    Thanks.
    Everything above is compatable with one another....

    Re-check that your L limit screw is set at the correct position. Once properly adjusted, fine tune your FD's tension via shifter's barrell adj

  24. #349
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    Make sure FD is low enough; it shouldn't clear the 36T ring by more than 3mm at most. If it would foul the chainstay when mounted low enough you may be better off with a more compact FD, such as the 9 speed SLX double (intended for 36x22T) or perhaps a road FD. Shifting between tworings should be an easy job for any halfway reasonable FD though, so it may well be setup.

  25. #350
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    Thanks for the help. I actually had to raise the FD to it's max height on the direct mount tab. Didn't seem to make sense to go higher, but that's what worked. Shifting fine on the stand now.

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