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  1. #1
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    Do you need to use all the spacers on a Hollowtech II crankset (XT m760)?

    I'm installing an XT M760 on my Blur, which has a 68mm BB shell. That sleeve that goes between the bearings- it is a fixed length. The directions also say the cranks are designed to be run a fixed distance apart regardless of BB shell width, which is what the spacers are for. However, using two spacers on the drive side puts the rings pretty far out, making for a funky chain line. My question is, if I use 0 or 1 spacer on the driveside instead of the recomended 2, do I just throw that plastic sleeve away? Do I just squish it a little? Trim it? If I can do that, why not run 0 spacers on either side to reduce Q-factor?

    Anybody done this yet?

    Thanks
    -@dam

  2. #2
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    The plastic sleeve is there because the spindle is a fixed length. If you do away with the plastic sleeve then try to tension the non-driveside end bolt, you'll end up cracking it.

    Someone has posted on here that they were able to bring the chainline in by removing material from the end of the spindle to compensate for the removal of one or two spacers, and it seems this is the only real way of dealing with this. Otherwise, you're stuck with a 50mm chainline.
    speedub.nate
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  3. #3
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    Wow- I think I'll try my luck with the current chainline first!

    If I did decide to grind some material from the spindle, wouldn't their not be enough spline to hold the left side crank arm?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by @dam
    If I did decide to grind some material from the spindle, wouldn't their not be enough spline to hold the left side crank arm?
    I'd think not, since you'd only be taking off about 2mm, but again, this isn't something I've tried myself, only read about. I'll see if I can track down the old post as a reference.
    speedub.nate
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  5. #5
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    You need to use two spacers on the drive side and one on the non drive side on your blur. That will give you a 50mm chainline. If you want to make it shorter you can move one spacer from the drive side to the non-drive side. It will offset the cranks slightly but you'll have a standard 47.5mm chainline. Each spacer is 2.5mm. It sure beats taking a grinder to your new cranks.

  6. #6
    sadly, like the element
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    The plastic sleeve is what keeps water that enters your frame from entering the bottom bracket and the bearing races from the exposed inner cups. The spindle attached to the drive side is also a certain length and the groves on the non-drive side are also only grooved in a certain length. Removing spacers will mean you will be unable to tighten the non-drive crank arm to the bearing cups and your crank will slide side to side. You can move the spacers but as Hecubus said, it will offset the crank and it might feel weird.

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