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  1. #1
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    Different wheels = different shifting????

    Help!!

    I have an older (dang classic!) Raliegh John Tomac Ti hard tail. Of course, by force, it is a 9 speed. The problem I am having with it is that when I switch between wheelsets, the shifting is very different. One wheel (older Hugi hub) works like Butter, shifting beautifully. The other, a Cane Creek, shifts horribly, especially in the second to largest cog!! It is NOT related to cassettes. I have switched the cassettes between the two wheels with no effect. I am wondering if a slight difference between the cones would affect this. HELP!!!!!

    Thx,

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by WheelSuker
    Help!!

    I have an older (dang classic!) Raliegh John Tomac Ti hard tail. Of course, by force, it is a 9 speed. The problem I am having with it is that when I switch between wheelsets, the shifting is very different. One wheel (older Hugi hub) works like Butter, shifting beautifully. The other, a Cane Creek, shifts horribly, especially in the second to largest cog!! It is NOT related to cassettes. I have switched the cassettes between the two wheels with no effect. I am wondering if a slight difference between the cones would affect this. HELP!!!!!

    Thx,
    Every rear hub positions the cassette slightly more inboard/outboard on the axle/freehub with respect to the frame dropouts (i.e. derailleur hanger). If you switch between wheelssets you will need to adjust the rear derailleur indexing as well as the limit screws every time you do so for it to shift correctly. Not to mention that if you end up using different cassettes on each wheel it will cause all kinds of drivetrain wear issues.

  3. #3
    pronounced may-duh
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearHead
    Every rear hub positions the cassette slightly more inboard/outboard on the axle/freehub with respect to the frame dropouts (i.e. derailleur hanger). If you switch between wheelssets you will need to adjust the rear derailleur indexing as well as the limit screws every time you do so for it to shift correctly. Not to mention that if you end up using different cassettes on each wheel it will cause all kinds of drivetrain wear issues.
    Like he said the cassette is positioned slightly diferent on the two wheels. Also, was this bike built for the wider axel of a 8/9spd hub? Older bikes take a narrower axel. You may have bent your frame to make the wider axle fit
    Cool bike, you should post a pic for the guys in the retro forum

  4. #4
    Mantis, Paramount, Campy
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    The Raleigh Tomac Isn't That Old

    That frame has 135mm spacing so that wouldn't be an issue.

    As far as the wheel swap issue there's really no reason it shouldn't work. I'd write it off as a fluke. Sure cassette bodies may sit differently from manufacturer to manufacturer but the difference is miniscule...deffinately within the range of error that the floating derailleur pullies are capable of making up for. I have 2 or 3 sets of wheels that I use on every frame and I have and have never run up against a shifting issue. Braking sure because they use different rims but I knew that going in.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shayne
    That frame has 135mm spacing so that wouldn't be an issue.

    As far as the wheel swap issue there's really no reason it shouldn't work. I'd write it off as a fluke. Sure cassette bodies may sit differently from manufacturer to manufacturer but the difference is miniscule...deffinately within the range of error that the floating derailleur pullies are capable of making up for. I have 2 or 3 sets of wheels that I use on every frame and I have and have never run up against a shifting issue. Braking sure because they use different rims but I knew that going in.
    Do you have different hubs on the wheelsets or are all the hubs the same?

    Some people are more observant of whether or not their bike shifts poorly. Even when I replaced my worn XT cassette with a "identical" new XT cassette I had to adjust the derailleur due to the cassettes being slightly different. The new one sits on the freehub body further.

  6. #6
    Mantis, Paramount, Campy
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    Yup

    I've got Campy, XTR, and Sampson rears for 1 bike

    Bullseye and Campy for another

    And XT and Nukeproof on another.

    But you are correct. I'm pretty sure I'm not as pickey about shifting as some people are. Which is funny 'cause I road race but whatever.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shayne
    That frame has 135mm spacing so that wouldn't be an issue.

    As far as the wheel swap issue there's really no reason it shouldn't work. I'd write it off as a fluke. Sure cassette bodies may sit differently from manufacturer to manufacturer but the difference is miniscule...deffinately within the range of error that the floating derailleur pullies are capable of making up for. I have 2 or 3 sets of wheels that I use on every frame and I have and have never run up against a shifting issue. Braking sure because they use different rims but I knew that going in.



    I wish I could, but I tried a third wheel in there, and have the exact same issue at the 29 (I think) - 32 (32 tooth cassette) junction. SKeps jumping from the 29 to the 32. Less problems as you shift down the cassette. That third wheel was a Shimano XT. So, my results are XT - bad, Cane Creek - bad, Hugi- butter!!

    Hmmmmmmmm. It may....have to get checked at the LBS. I am not a bad home wrench, but definetly not gifted.

  8. #8
    Mantis, Paramount, Campy
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    Well At Least.....

    The best of the 3 hubs works

    Good Luck though and let us know what the LBS says.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearHead
    Every rear hub positions the cassette slightly more inboard/outboard on the axle/freehub with respect to the frame dropouts (i.e. derailleur hanger). If you switch between wheelssets you will need to adjust the rear derailleur indexing as well as the limit screws every time you do so for it to shift correctly. Not to mention that if you end up using different cassettes on each wheel it will cause all kinds of drivetrain wear issues.
    I agree.
    Try adding a very thin spacer between the cog set and freehub body of the hub with a slightly more inboard position. Your LBS should stock multi size spacers for this fix.
    It beats re-setting your derailleur's High/Low settings after every wheel change.

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