Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Hill eater
    Reputation: Rattus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    103

    Diff between 44t and 48t chain ring ?

    I ride my old 2005 XTC on the road a fair few ks so I'm going to put some slicks on her. Problem is they are much smaller bag thus changing my gearing.

    I'm wondering will changing from a 44t to a 48t give me back that difference? a bit extra would be nice as I'm spinning fast now to keep up with the roadies.

    Also would my front derailleur (shimano XT) work ok with this?

    48t or bigger in 4 bolt 104mm seem to be fairly rare, cheapest i have found is $69 at Chainreaction. Anyone know of a better deal?

    Thanks in advance for any help or advice
    We don't stop playing because we grow old
    We grow old because we stop playing.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    6,735
    "I'm wondering will changing from a 44t to a 48t give me back that difference? a bit extra would be nice as I'm spinning fast now to keep up with the roadies."

    Yes it'll make a difference, but not quite as much as you are hoping for I'm affraid. You'll still be working pretty hard to keep up with the road crowd. Road bike big rings usually start at 52T for a compact crank set and go up from there. With a 12-28 road cassette and 700c tires they're still going to have more potential than you will. If they are fit enough to use the full potential of their drive train, you'll get dropped. But a 48T would help some.

    Also would my front derailleur (shimano XT) work ok with this?

    Maybe, depends on the exact model of the derailleur. However, all XT derailleurs have maximum capacities betwee ALL the chain rings. The maximum capacity of most Shimano front derailleurs is 22T. This means that the maximum difference between the big ring and the small ring can be 22T before you start having problems. Also the max difference between each ring is 12T. So assuming that your current crank is set up with the standard 22/32/44 rings you'd likely need to replace your small and middle ring as well to keep things running smoothly. For a 48T set up your minimum middle ring size would be 36T in keeping with the 12T max difference. That would make your minimum small ring requirement a 24T. However the 24T would exceed the maximum 22T capaicity of the standard derailleur, so you'd have to bump the small ring to 26T to make it work properly. That's why Shimano's standard set up for a 48T big ring crankset is a 26/36/48T combo. This would also require you to clamp the derailleur higher on the seat tube as well. The reason behind this is the derailleurs limited capacity to lift or drop the chain from gear to gear. Exceed the maximum capacity and you'll either end up with the chain dragging on the cage when in the small ring, or your won't be able to get up into the big ring if the derailleur is set low enough to prevent it.

    "48t or bigger in 4 bolt 104mm seem to be fairly rare, cheapest i have found is $69 at Chainreaction. Anyone know of a better deal?"

    Can't help you there. While not as rare as some, they deffinately aren't that common. And when you do find them, as noted, they're usually rather spendy. And keep in mind the above, you'll need to go to bigger small and middle rings to keep things working properly. So it'll likely be a bit more expensive than you initially thought. It's deffinately doable, but it's not just a matter or replacing the big ring. There's a little more to consider than that.

    Good Dirt
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,022
    Just a correction. A typical compact road crank is 50/34. Other compact road cranks are 48/34 and 50/36. 52/42 used to be a common road crank before the advent of the current norm of 53/39. Depending on the cassette some compact crank riders will sacrifice some top end speed. A 50/11 will hit 31.3mph @ 90rpm versus 33.2mph for a 53/11. However, a typical road cassette of 12/25, combined with a typical 53/39 crank will have a top end of 30.42 @ 90rpm, actually slower than a 50/34 with a 11/23 cassette. It's all in the gear charts.

  4. #4
    Hill eater
    Reputation: Rattus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    103
    Thanks very much Squash and meloh1, your information is very useful

    Hmmm, might end up cheaper getting a crankset than 3 separate chainrings, I will keep looking and consider. I really don't want to spend too much on my old XTC.
    We don't stop playing because we grow old
    We grow old because we stop playing.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    11,324
    Quote Originally Posted by Rattus
    Thanks very much Squash and meloh1, your information is very useful

    Hmmm, might end up cheaper getting a crankset than 3 separate chainrings, I will keep looking and consider. I really don't want to spend too much on my old XTC.

    I went to a 46 tooth chain ring, I searched around for a old XTR front der, some were rated for the 48 tooth rings, think it cost me $50...or so.

    I also think the recent XT FDs are also rated for 48 tooth....

    The effective diameter of the arc of the FD is bigger and the shifting bumps are a little different.....

    I would bet that any FD would work if you only go to 46 tooth....

    If you have a LG cage RD you can run 11-34 and 22 46 with a little bit of chain rub in little little, and big big won't snap anything.

    Check out Chain reaction Cycles Middleburn chain rings and Raceface (sometimes you have to special order)...

    My next chain ring will be a 48 I think all I will have to do is add a link to the chain.

    Don't worry about the middle and little chain ring they will be fine....However if you don't have a lot of hills 2 more teeth on the middle might be nice.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    2
    I'm currently riding on a 3x9 with the front 22-32-40 chain-ring setup. I have bought & upsized to the new chain-ring combination of 26-32-48.

    My concerns is would shifting from the middle chain ring (32t) to the larger chain ring (48t) any ill-effect? i.e. chain-drop... Thanks.

  7. #7
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,241
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Leong View Post
    I'm currently riding on a 3x9 with the front 22-32-40 chain-ring setup. I have bought & upsized to the new chain-ring combination of 26-32-48.

    My concerns is would shifting from the middle chain ring (32t) to the larger chain ring (48t) any ill-effect? i.e. chain-drop... Thanks.
    More likely to have issues shifting down from the 48 to the 32. May have it drop clear to the 22 at times.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    More likely to have issues shifting down from the 48 to the 32. May have it drop clear to the 22 at times.


    Would it be solved if I change the middle chainring as well? Maybe change from 32 to 36.

    Then, I would have 48-36-26

    Instead of the 48-32-26; which I'm having now.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: crossracer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    414

    Diff between 44t and 48t chain ring ?

    Changing the middle ring should help a lot.

    If you arnt trying to spend a ton a simple thumb shifter for the front gears would probally solve a lot of your shifting issues. Shimano and SRAM trigger shifters just don't have the flexibility to do front chainrings well . IMHO

    Especially if you want to monkey around with the gears at all.

    Bill

  10. #10
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,241

    Diff between 44t and 48t chain ring ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Leong View Post
    Would it be solved if I change the middle chainring as well? Maybe change from 32 to 36.

    Then, I would have 48-36-26

    Instead of the 48-32-26; which I'm having now.
    Will help, if you have any trouble in the first place.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •