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Thread: Cranks

  1. #1
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    Cranks

    Concerning cranks, other than weight, whats the difference? I currently have Shimano M532 cranks on my bike, but have an opportunity to pick up some SLX FC-M660's for a nice price. So other than weight, whats the difference?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Possibly chain ring compatibility. Shimano rings can sometimes be a bit finicky about fitting onto cranksets other than the one for which they were specifically designed.

    I think the SLX chain rings are really nice, so having a crankset that will accept them is a plus. Aside from that, functionally, no difference.

    I'd say if "a nice price" is below, say, $60, and you've got a few seasons of wear on the M532, go for it - new chain rings can be pretty pricey.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  3. #3
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    I can pick up the entire crank for about 130 new. I already have another brand new 532 in my basement, but not sure if I should put the same crank in, or switch up to a slightly lighter (1/2 pound) crankset??

  4. #4
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    Unless you'd like to weight weenie your bike, I don't think it's worth trying to lighten that area very much. I do think the shifting will be slightly smoother with the SLX crank, but if you're happy with what you've got, don't bother.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

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    Yea the shifting with my current setup is super smooth, and no problems. The issue is my bike is super heavy for what it is 34 lbs, Trek Fuel EX7. Im not a weight weenie, but every little bit helps, I suppose??

  6. #6
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    Meh. It's a heavy-ass long-travel bike. Certainly by weight weenie standards.

    You can probably lose over a pound of rubber, and more at the rims. And that'll actually effect the ride. Losing crank weight is fairly equivalent to losing body mass, or weight from the frame - more expensive then losing weight from your belly, and not as effective. Unless you're already at optimal racing weight, in which case wtf are you doing on that bike.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  7. #7
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    Im probably not gonna lose any more weight. At 6'3" and 195 lbs, I doubt Im getting any lighter. As for the bike, well its what I got. As for wheels, etc. I run King hubs, with velocity Blunt rims. I like having somewhat stout parts, as I dont like breaking stuff. I like to ride without the fear of it breaking down. Maybe my next bike will be a little better, but then again maybe not. Im not a fan of carbon frames so itll probably stay aluminum. On top of that I ride a large frame bike 21.5 inches so thats another possible issue on the weight side.

  8. #8
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    According to Velocity, you actually don't have much weight to lose from your rim - they claim it at 409g. Lighter rims than that are, for most people, a race day rim, not a daily driver.

    If you're going to be a weight weenie, at this point, you really need to pull everything off and weigh it - sometimes surprising amounts of weight can hide in places like the seatpost, stem, handlebar, etc., but OEM parts are often also very competitive. One butted aluminum whatever is often much like the next.

    $130 for 200g is pretty good by weight weenie standards - more than 1 gram per dollar. Tires, though, can be a huge place to see a swing in weight. (Although, if your riding style suits that bike, assuming you already have the folding versions of your favorite tire you probably wouldn't want to lose weight there.) Pedals can be a good place, although I can't say that the reviews of the one people like for losing weight inspire me with confidence. Saddles, sometimes, and I could swear I can feel a handling change going from having an extra few hundred grams in a seat wedge to removing it, something I can't feel when I add and remove water bottles down low, by the bottom bracket.

    Or, you can just say, "F it, I have a trail bike, these things just aren't that light."
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

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    I have a Cannondale Super V700sx with a Coda crank. It has a Deore LX front derailleur so I would assume that Shimano crank sets would work on the bike? Just looking to upgrade and maybe drop some weight. It makes a lot of noise whn pedaling although this may be something that could be adjusted.

  10. #10
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    Check out parktool.com and sheldonbrown.com. Start by figuring out if your chain is worn out. If so, throw it out, replace it, and replace whatever drivetrain bits are worn out. If not, clean it, relube it, tune your derailleurs, and be happy.

    I'd restrict myself to "keep it rolling" parts on a FS rig that age.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

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    Yea the tires I run are a little heavy (Panaracer Fire XC Pro's), but I love them! I would be totally willing to switch to a different tire if need be. As for the other parts, Im doing a 100 miler in September, and one of the folks that has raced it numerous times, said NOT to use the lightest parts, especially in items such as stems, and handlebars. I guess the bike is what it is, and Ive come to learn how to ride it fairly well over the years, but figure as I replace items, I try and balance weight vs cost vs longevity of the parts. I dont like mechanicals, so sometimes Id rather just deal with the weight. I figured if Im gonna replace the cranks anyway, I might as well go with a slightly lighter crank rather than throw the same thing on there, and the price really isnt that bad.

  12. #12
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    I've started doing a little endurance racing this season. Not a 100 miler yet - just a 30, and a 50 in August. I'm not in good enough shape to be competitive for 100 miles off-road.

    Anyway. If you're doing a race that's long for you, the big issues are going to have to do with how well your body holds up. If 100 miles is a lot for you, sticking with tires that will take care of you is better than sticking on some super-efficient things that require the kind of attention you won't have left for them 80 miles in.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

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