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Thread: Chain Prolbems

  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Mar 2004

    Chain Prolbems

    I have some major chain issues with my 07 stumpjumper. Had the bike for about 4 months now. I ride 3 or 4 times a week, but I keep jacking up my chains. Gone through 5 chains since owning the bike. I always buy the same brand and style of chain. Sram PC-951. Should I buy a higher grade chain or am I just wasting my money. Already spent over 100 bones on chains. I seem to pinch the links alot so it just skips if I pedal real hard. Please some suggestions im very frustrated.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    chainrings, chain, cassette. your chainrings are probably shot, each time you replace your chain you might have to replace the rings and cassette too, but if you switch out a pair of chains every few weeks, it adds life to both.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ewarnerusa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    what is your reason for replacing the chains? do they break? I'm not sure what pinching the links means, unless you mean you have a stiff link where you put the chain back together. pwrtrainer is right about the components, but I don't think those should be issues after only 4 months. Unless your riding conditions are VERY abrasive to the cassette/chainrings. I've never heard of 5 chains in 4 months. I go through one or two a season, riding about the same frequency you mention. Have you checked the chain wear with a chain checker or ruler? I think the cassette/chainrings should only need replacement if you've been riding on them with stretched chains (> 0.75% stretch).

    I did have a similar issue with the chain skipping on the granny and middle chainrings when I pushed hard. Fixed by replacing the soft shimano chainrings with race face. But this was with a season and a half on the old chainrings.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    May 2006
    I can go through a chain in a month but that is because of extreme corrosion due to salted roads etc.

    No point in continuing to do the same thing cause it ain't working.

    Without understanding your problem pinching etc, I would check the chainrings and cogs for wear and buy an upgraded chain.

  5. #5
    Reputation: Cyco-Dude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    ...or take it in to a bike shop and have them look at it.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    sounds to me that you need to have the rear derailleur adjusted.

    to do this properly with no influence from the cable, cable housing or shifter pod... This is for people who are not familiar with the adjustments

    To do this without any influence from the cable, cable housing or shifter pod; loosen the shifter cable from the rear derailleur to allow the derailleur to swing freely. Also best to remove the chain by taking the little wheel off the derailleur (no need to use a chain breaker to remove the chain) you just want to remove it from the equation for the time being. At least until you’re comfortable with making adjustments with the chain and cable still connected. If you are doing this with the shifter cable still connected please make sure that the shifter pod is in the corresponding gear and the adjuster ferrules are adjusted in( I usually leave the adjuster barrels a few turns out for fine tuning afterwards)

    There are two little screws on the derailleur. One has an "H" and the other has an "L".

    "H" is for hi gear (the tiny gear) and keeps the chain from falling off the small sprocket. And "L" is for low gear (the big gear) and keeps the chain and derailleur from going off the “inside” of the cassette into the spokes.

    With the shifter cable and chain disconnected the derailleur will “spring” to the big gear if it is rapid rise. If it is standard swing it will “spring” to the small gear. Either one doesn’t matter because you will have to hold the derailleur to the opposite side to make the other adjustment.

    While the derailleur is at the low gear (big gear) side you want to screw the “L” screw in or out until the little derailleur tension pulley wheels lineup with the sprocket. I like to adjust it so that the derailleur tension pulleys are just a little past the large cassette sprocket (like a half a millimeter)

    Now move the derailleur to the hi gear side and do the same adjustment on the “H” screw

    To properly set your shifter cable you will need to make sure that the shifter pod is in the correct gear. The correct gear is when the shifter cable is at its longest and double check you adjuster barrels. While gently pulling on the cable tighten the allen bolt to proper torque… Run thru the gears to make sure the derailleur is shifting all the way from the low side back to the hi side

    If you removed your chain, then put it back on now…

    Now you need to set chain tension (or gap). This is the screw that sits up by the derailleur hanger. The little derailleur pulley wheel should be about 5-7mm’s from the cassette at any given gear. Adjust this screw until desired setting is reached.

    The final adjustment is made with the adjuster barrels. Run thru the gears, making sure that the chain lines up with the proper gear on the cassette

    Now no amount of derailleur adjustment will fix a bad shifter cable, bad cable housing, bad cable routing, worn out derailleur or shifter, bent cassette…etc. So please inspect your components and keep your drive train clean and lubricated.

  7. #7
    I Love my Rize
    Reputation: danoalb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005

    I say chainring also

    90 percent of chain skipping while under load is due to a bad chainring. Aluminum rings do this alot especially Shimano XT and XTR middle rings. Best fix is to install a steel middle and granny ring. Deore grade is best not LX just Deore. Great durable rings that shift like butter just a very little bit heavier that the alu junk. I will never run a alu ring.
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.


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