That can be from a hub that's got some play in the cassette freehub body.
Normally it isn't a big deal. If it becomes a problem, swapping a new freehub on the wheel generally fixes it. (Sometimes even pulling the freehub and reinstalling it properly can fix it.)
Depending on your hub you might have a plastic type of spacer, and it may be that it is busted. If it is that is an easy fix just go down to your LBS and get an aluminum one and replace it.
If there is a plastic spoke protection disc, it may be touching the cassette, making it wobble. It may also be just normal wobbling of a relatively cheap freehub.
You know what, when back pedaling the freehub does feel/sound kind of rough. Could it just be a bad or defective part? The bike probably has 1/2 mile on it the free hub reminds me of the freehub on my Trek 4300 that had been beat to crap and left outside before I owned it.
Hubs are a normal place for bike manufacturers to throw cheap parts at on a bike. Just because its a $1000 bike doesn't mean the hubs aren't lower end. Its the nature of the business, companies will throw on high end parts where its noticed (like the rear derailluer, fork, tires) then put low end Shimano or Formula (or house brand, usually made by Formula) hubs on the bike. A little wobble is normal, its because the tolerances in the freehub are not to the same level as say a King or DT hub. Really, unless your freehub wobbling so much that your bike skips gears, it probably is the normal amount of wobble.
FYI-I just looked up the Specs for your bike and the hubs are listed as "Alloy Disc" meaning they are likely a generic Taiwan or China made Formula Hub. A rough sounding freehub with some wobble is standard fair for these.
Hubs are a normal place for bike manufacturers to throw cheap parts at on a bike. Just because its a $1000 bike doesn't mean the hubs aren't lower end. Its the nature of the business, companies will throw on high end parts where its noticed (like the rear derailluer, fork, tires) then put low end Shimano or Formula (or house brand, usually made by Formula) hubs on the bike. A little wobble is normal, its because the tolerances in the freehub are not to the same level as say a King or DT hub. Really, unless your freehub wobbling so much that your bike skips gears, it probably is the normal amount of wobble.
FYI-I just looked up the Specs for your bike and the hubs are listed as "Alloy Disc" meaning they are likely a generic Taiwan or China made Formula Hub. A rough sounding freehub with some wobble is standard fair for these.
Scary that an entry level bike is around $500-700 full susp. and a decent bike that can still come with stuff on it like the op describes can run you $2-4K. For that much money the parts should fit very nicely. We're talkin the price of a very used care here.... :madman: Sad......
Do you think I should take the time to take it apart and try to fix it, call Iron Horse and see if they'll send a replacement, or leave it until it breaks?
You know what, when back pedaling the freehub does feel/sound kind of rough. Could it just be a bad or defective part? The bike probably has 1/2 mile on it the free hub reminds me of the freehub on my Trek 4300 that had been beat to crap and left outside before I owned it.
Your freewheel is either loose, or the bearings are worn. So it needs to be tightened or replaced with a new one. The part is not expensive, but removing & replacing might be tricky if you are not accustomed to working on a bike or lack the appropriate tools
I compared mine to the $200 diamondbacks we sell at Dick's and the Diamondbacks were leaps and bounds more smooth.
If I put my hand on the pedal and "fling" the pedal/cranks backwards and let it spin freely the cranks only make it around like 1.5-2 times.
Tried the same thing on a $300 iron horse we had and the crank went around at least 10 times and didn't sound like the freehub was filled with sand and rocks.
Also when I pedal hard and then stop pedaling suddenly the freehub doesn't "coast" right away and the cassette keeps spinning causing the derailler to "jump" and the chain to go slack between the cassette and crank (on the top side).
There is definitely something wrong with it. I'm going to see if Iron horse will send me a new wheel instead of making me disassemble and re-lace the whole wheel.
i would take it to your lbs, if you want to learn watch how a professional does it first hand.
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