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Cassette "wobble" when coasting???

12K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  Spindelatron 
#1 ·
Just bought a Warrior 5.0. Seems like a great bike so far. Haven't done any trails yet though.

When I was building the bike I noticed the rear cassette has a sort of wobble back and forth when its coasting. Is this normal?
 
#3 ·
That can be from a hub that's got some play in the cassette freehub body.

Normally it isn't a big deal. If it becomes a problem, swapping a new freehub on the wheel generally fixes it. (Sometimes even pulling the freehub and reinstalling it properly can fix it.)

JmZ
 
#8 ·
Problem with pulling the cassette...

It rides on the freehub. The part underneath is the one that might need to be replaced or re-installed.

Try the other spacer and spoke protection solutions first, easier and cheaper.

And it can happen on most any hub. I had it happen on a couple of shimano based hubs from different levels. Even happened with an XTR hub I had.

Good luck,

JmZ
 
#9 ·
You know what, when back pedaling the freehub does feel/sound kind of rough. Could it just be a bad or defective part? The bike probably has 1/2 mile on it the free hub reminds me of the freehub on my Trek 4300 that had been beat to crap and left outside before I owned it.
 
#10 ·
Hubs are a normal place for bike manufacturers to throw cheap parts at on a bike. Just because its a $1000 bike doesn't mean the hubs aren't lower end. Its the nature of the business, companies will throw on high end parts where its noticed (like the rear derailluer, fork, tires) then put low end Shimano or Formula (or house brand, usually made by Formula) hubs on the bike. A little wobble is normal, its because the tolerances in the freehub are not to the same level as say a King or DT hub. Really, unless your freehub wobbling so much that your bike skips gears, it probably is the normal amount of wobble.

FYI-I just looked up the Specs for your bike and the hubs are listed as "Alloy Disc" meaning they are likely a generic Taiwan or China made Formula Hub. A rough sounding freehub with some wobble is standard fair for these.
 
#11 ·
mtnbiker72 said:
Hubs are a normal place for bike manufacturers to throw cheap parts at on a bike. Just because its a $1000 bike doesn't mean the hubs aren't lower end. Its the nature of the business, companies will throw on high end parts where its noticed (like the rear derailluer, fork, tires) then put low end Shimano or Formula (or house brand, usually made by Formula) hubs on the bike. A little wobble is normal, its because the tolerances in the freehub are not to the same level as say a King or DT hub. Really, unless your freehub wobbling so much that your bike skips gears, it probably is the normal amount of wobble.

FYI-I just looked up the Specs for your bike and the hubs are listed as "Alloy Disc" meaning they are likely a generic Taiwan or China made Formula Hub. A rough sounding freehub with some wobble is standard fair for these.
Scary that an entry level bike is around $500-700 full susp. and a decent bike that can still come with stuff on it like the op describes can run you $2-4K. For that much money the parts should fit very nicely. We're talkin the price of a very used care here.... :madman: Sad......
 
#13 ·
johnniewalker85 said:
You know what, when back pedaling the freehub does feel/sound kind of rough. Could it just be a bad or defective part? The bike probably has 1/2 mile on it the free hub reminds me of the freehub on my Trek 4300 that had been beat to crap and left outside before I owned it.
Your freewheel is either loose, or the bearings are worn. So it needs to be tightened or replaced with a new one. The part is not expensive, but removing & replacing might be tricky if you are not accustomed to working on a bike or lack the appropriate tools
 
#16 ·
Alright folks. I think I'm gonna call iron horse.

I compared mine to the $200 diamondbacks we sell at Dick's and the Diamondbacks were leaps and bounds more smooth.

If I put my hand on the pedal and "fling" the pedal/cranks backwards and let it spin freely the cranks only make it around like 1.5-2 times.

Tried the same thing on a $300 iron horse we had and the crank went around at least 10 times and didn't sound like the freehub was filled with sand and rocks.

Also when I pedal hard and then stop pedaling suddenly the freehub doesn't "coast" right away and the cassette keeps spinning causing the derailler to "jump" and the chain to go slack between the cassette and crank (on the top side).

There is definitely something wrong with it. I'm going to see if Iron horse will send me a new wheel instead of making me disassemble and re-lace the whole wheel.
 
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